Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2

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thundermarch

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Hello I have a question, the open channel threads on my Allen Edmonds broke. Will it compromise the quality in any way? And should I go topy the shoes now? Recommendations and ideas please

I am assuming that you mean "structural integrity" instead of "quality"? And I am also assuming that just a few of the stitches are affected.

Apart from the row of outsole stitching ("open channel threads") binding the welt to the outsole, the cork filler layer is also cemented to the outsole.

The type of stitch used for the outsole is also a lock stitch, which is more structurally sound than a chain stitch, which unravels very easily.

I would say that before the bond between the welt and the outsole (via the cementing and outsole stitching) gives way, the outsole itself would probably be already worn down to the extent that a resole would be needed anyway.

Your decision to topy or not, while aesthetically / superficially "making the problem go away" by covering up the broken threads, should not really be based on this, but more on a personal preference for topy. Or not.

Personally, I feel that the merits (just my opinion) of topy, are water resistance, and the relative longevity of rubber compared to leather.

P/S: some pictures of your shoes might help here as well.
 
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wiz

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Since u mention a few pairs, the two most formal shoes:

Cap toe oxford
Enzo-Bonafe-3845-mod-Etrusco-Stock-Mood_large.jpg


Adelaide oxford
900x900px-LL-9c84c2c7_Enzo-Bonafe-3200MOD-Vitello-Bolet-02.jpeg

EB fan spotted! :D
 

vintagepotato

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I noticed that despite putting shoe trees in my shoes, my leather shoes always get a straight horizontal line of crease at the bottom of the toes, how do I reduce or get rid of those creases?
I saw a vid on youtube suggesting using hair dryer to heat the leather then straighten it out has anyone tried this method before?
 

arcfire

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I noticed that despite putting shoe trees in my shoes, my leather shoes always get a straight horizontal line of crease at the bottom of the toes, how do I reduce or get rid of those creases?
I saw a vid on youtube suggesting using hair dryer to heat the leather then straighten it out has anyone tried this method before?

Some pics might help in explaining your situation. I'm not able to visualize.
 

LegendZenify

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I noticed that despite putting shoe trees in my shoes, my leather shoes always get a straight horizontal line of crease at the bottom of the toes, how do I reduce or get rid of those creases?
I saw a vid on youtube suggesting using hair dryer to heat the leather then straighten it out has anyone tried this method before?

Bottom of the toes?
That's a weird place to have creases in.
 

twomantoes

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Hi sirs, need some advices. Just got Loake Buckingham from robinsonsshoes, and I wonder if it is good to put rubber soles onto the leather sole and heel? If need, is there any good cobbler you'd recommended around the north area?
 

jonleelk

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Bottom of the toes?
That's a weird place to have creases in.
I believe he meant the part where the toes joint the forefoot (bottom of the toes).

Unless a person walks without flexing his toes at all, the toe cap area will sure crease.
 

evangel21

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GMTO Interest check

Hi guys. Just an interest check for 2 EB GMTOs.

GMTO 1:
Anyone keen on a pair of EB spectators? I am thinking of doing one in this make up (https://imgur.com/mWHAZ3U). Vitello Meleze and Hidro Oceano (deep navy suede). Thinking either 804 or 74945 or 946 last. Haven't decided. Other specs will be dark brown welt, leather or vibram sole. Hope to have it ready for 2018 CNY.

This is a reference of what I hope to do. https://imgur.com/4FJGadn


GMTO 2:
I am also keen to do a balmoral austerity brogue in Vitello Bleu (dark navy). Model will be this pair from Seamless Bespoke (https://imgur.com/jmq30zX). Specs not decided as yet.

Both will be done through Seamless Bespoke. Let me know or PM me your interest.

P.S. Not sure if the links work due to my insufficient posts. Would appreciate if any bros could help. TIA!
 
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arcfire

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Anyone use Renovateur by saphir before? It seems to dull my shoe.

Sent from Samsung SM-G950F using GAGT

Do you know what the Renovateur is used for? Perhaps you can give a step by step description of what you did with it. Oh, and what kind of shoe you used it on. To be more precise, type of leather, condition before using(waxed, not waxed, new shoe, old shoe etc)
 

vintagepotato

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I believe he meant the part where the toes joint the forefoot (bottom of the toes).

Unless a person walks without flexing his toes at all, the toe cap area will sure crease.

Yes I meant the area where the toes joint the forefoot at the cap toe area, how to minimise or get rid of those creases after some time?
 

NoEducation

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Do you know what the Renovateur is used for? Perhaps you can give a step by step description of what you did with it. Oh, and what kind of shoe you used it on. To be more precise, type of leather, condition before using(waxed, not waxed, new shoe, old shoe etc)
I am followed this guide here http://imgur.com/a/yErjB up to step 8. It said after Reno cream and brushing if you are satisfied can stop. After Reno cream and brushing like become more dull.

I decided to polish it cause after rain my shoe got water spots. It's a new shoe never conditioned before made of comipel shell cordovan. It's exactly the same shoe as the one in the guide above.

Sent from Samsung SM-G950F using GAGT
 

arcfire

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Yes I meant the area where the toes joint the forefoot at the cap toe area, how to minimise or get rid of those creases after some time?

I've not known of any products that can remove creases. How else would you bend your foot if the leather doesn't crease?
 

arcfire

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I am followed this guide here http://imgur.com/a/yErjB up to step 8. It said after Reno cream and brushing if you are satisfied can stop. After Reno cream and brushing like become more dull.

I decided to polish it cause after rain my shoe got water spots. It's a new shoe never conditioned before made of comipel shell cordovan. It's exactly the same shoe as the one in the guide above.

Sent from Samsung SM-G950F using GAGT

How much Reno did you apply? was it a thin or thick coat? Did you let it dry before brushing it off?
 

lucied

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I am followed this guide here http://imgur.com/a/yErjB up to step 8. It said after Reno cream and brushing if you are satisfied can stop. After Reno cream and brushing like become more dull.

I decided to polish it cause after rain my shoe got water spots. It's a new shoe never conditioned before made of comipel shell cordovan. It's exactly the same shoe as the one in the guide above.

Sent from Samsung SM-G950F using GAGT

Step 7 has 3 coats of conditioning and step 8 has another coat. That is extremely excessive.

You can follow this guide for condtioning.
https://ashlandleather.com/pages/ashland-leathers-simple-shell-cordovan-wallet-polishing-method
 

theblueark

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I am followed this guide here http://imgur.com/a/yErjB up to step 8. It said after Reno cream and brushing if you are satisfied can stop. After Reno cream and brushing like become more dull.

I decided to polish it cause after rain my shoe got water spots. It's a new shoe never conditioned before made of comipel shell cordovan. It's exactly the same shoe as the one in the guide above.

Sent from Samsung SM-G950F using GAGT

Reno is a great as cleaner-conditioner, not really meant for polishing. It'll kind of remove/smooth out previous polish and condition the leather. After that, you should have a good base to do a proper polish. Go on to step 9, and you'll see a subtle rich shine start to appear on it once you start brushing.
 

NoEducation

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How much Reno did you apply? was it a thin or thick coat? Did you let it dry before brushing it off?
I applied roughly a 20 cents coin for 1 shoe in total.
Step 7 has 3 coats of conditioning and step 8 has another coat. That is extremely excessive.

You can follow this guide for condtioning.
https://ashlandleather.com/pages/ashland-leathers-simple-shell-cordovan-wallet-polishing-method
Oya may be too much that's why it's dull. **** man. Thanks for the guide tho, next time for conditioning I'll use it.
Reno is a great as cleaner-conditioner, not really meant for polishing. It'll kind of remove/smooth out previous polish and condition the leather. After that, you should have a good base to do a proper polish. Go on to step 9, and you'll see a subtle rich shine start to appear on it once you start brushing.
I follow till step 8 then my shoe like dull so I hesitated going through the entire thing. I guess I'll follow through and see how it goes, I have a saphir black wax shoe polish that came with my shoe.

Sent from Samsung SM-G950F using GAGT
 

theblueark

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I applied roughly a 20 cents coin for 1 shoe in total.

Oya may be too much that's why it's dull. **** man. Thanks for the guide tho, next time for conditioning I'll use it.

I follow till step 8 then my shoe like dull so I hesitated going through the entire thing. I guess I'll follow through and see how it goes, I have a saphir black wax shoe polish that came with my shoe.

Go easy on the wax. Maybe try some more brushing and buffing first. It could be because you put too much conditioner that not enough of it was brushed off, leaving a matte layer.
 
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