Where to tailor clothes =D - Part 3

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koburn

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Def not bespoke but still of a very fine quality.

They do have fully canvassed options


In its purest form, "bespoke" in the context of tailoring means that the entire process is undertaken by a single person, meaning it's the same tailor who measures you, takes the measurements to draft onto the fabric (some tailors draft on a paper pattern before transferring that onto the fabric, but it's just a matter of preference by the tailor), cuts, sews and finally completes the finishing work all by himself, and that the customer has total reign over the specifications of the commission within the practical limits of construction.

As such, if I were to set criteria for what constitutes "bespoke", the following list would apply:
1. Is the tailor/"tailor" responsible for the entire construction process?
2. Does he create a pattern from scratch?
3. Is he the one who fits you during fittings?
4. Is the level of handwork (pad-stitched lapels, detailed pattern matching, hand shanked buttons, hand stitched button-holes, surgeon's cuffs, etc) high?
5. Is there a high level of customisation allowed (quarter/half/self lined or unlined, size/number/placement of pockets, etc)?

However, I am really not too hung up on terminology, as I feel that this term is now largely used for marketing purposes to reflect a higher end product. Maybe that's the reason why Lusso doesn't call themselves "Lusso Bespoke Tailors".

My 2 cents worth.:)

P/S:- I was measured and fitted by their in-house master tailor and he shared that it usually takes him around 30 to 40 man-hours to complete a jacket from scratch. All by himself. Really. Fwah.
 

thehookbox

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i need to downsize a dress overall, even the neckline... anyone can recommend any stores or any home based tailor or seamstress?
 

likehotbutter

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As such, if I were to set criteria for what constitutes "bespoke", the following list would apply:
1. Is the tailor/"tailor" responsible for the entire construction process?
2. Does he create a pattern from scratch?
3. Is he the one who fits you during fittings?
4. Is the level of handwork (pad-stitched lapels, detailed pattern matching, hand shanked buttons, hand stitched button-holes, surgeon's cuffs, etc) high?
5. Is there a high level of customisation allowed (quarter/half/self lined or unlined, size/number/placement of pockets, etc)?

indeed. iirc only KS boasts of doing everything himself locally.

Even KJ, Dylan, SoA refer to their better offerings as having a bespoked drafting pattern, rather then calling the entire finished garment bespoke
 

JThinking

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indeed. iirc only KS boasts of doing everything himself locally.

Even KJ, Dylan, SoA refer to their better offerings as having a bespoked drafting pattern, rather then calling the entire finished garment bespoke

Hahaha I doubt KS do everything himself la.

People your safer bets are Iris, Dylan, RD, KJ, Lusso, etc
 

likehotbutter

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Hahaha I doubt KS do everything himself la.

People your safer bets are Iris, Dylan, RD, KJ, Lusso, etc

That's why I used the term "Boasts" :s13::s13::s13:

Should ask CBS what he reckons since he also reported the same.

Dont forget Meiko as well!
 

likehotbutter

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Lunch time on a Friday, lots of time to read prompted by Jthinking & Koburn :D

Seems like there's an association of Savile Row Tailors (huntsman, Gieves, Norton etc), and here's their definition of Bespoke (at least in the Savile row sense?)
http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/

+++
Every Savile Row Bespoke garment has its own individually handmade pattern, cut by a Master Cutter. It is then made under his or her personal supervision to the exacting standards for which Savile Row is famed.
+++

So then Bespoke would refer more to the DRAFTING and CUTTING process than it would the construction? Of course from scratch and no blocks.

So then in the Savile row sense, KJ, Dylan, SoA etc where individuals draft a personal pattern and cut would be bespoke?

Good food for thought
 

koburn

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Lunch time on a Friday, lots of time to read prompted by Jthinking & Koburn :D

Seems like there's an association of Savile Row Tailors (huntsman, Gieves, Norton etc), and here's their definition of Bespoke (at least in the Savile row sense?)
http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/

+++
Every Savile Row Bespoke garment has its own individually handmade pattern, cut by a Master Cutter. It is then made under his or her personal supervision to the exacting standards for which Savile Row is famed.
+++

So then Bespoke would refer more to the DRAFTING and CUTTING process than it would the construction? Of course from scratch and no blocks.

So then in the Savile row sense, KJ, Dylan, SoA etc where individuals draft a personal pattern and cut would be bespoke?

Good food for thought

I'm glad I filled your lunchtime reading...:D
 

Passerby1980

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Lunch time on a Friday, lots of time to read prompted by Jthinking & Koburn :D

Seems like there's an association of Savile Row Tailors (huntsman, Gieves, Norton etc), and here's their definition of Bespoke (at least in the Savile row sense?)
http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/

+++
Every Savile Row Bespoke garment has its own individually handmade pattern, cut by a Master Cutter. It is then made under his or her personal supervision to the exacting standards for which Savile Row is famed.
+++

So then Bespoke would refer more to the DRAFTING and CUTTING process than it would the construction? Of course from scratch and no blocks.

So then in the Savile row sense, KJ, Dylan, SoA etc where individuals draft a personal pattern and cut would be bespoke?

Good food for thought

SOA for shirts yes. KJ I believe only for pants. Dylan, I have my reservations. Lusso, while based on what Koburn says feels close to a Bespoke piece but is still a question mark.

In addition, I believe a paper pattern does not equate to a higher quality product as well. Some of the more advanced tailors from the older generation, eg Meiko and Chan draft on the cloth itself. Seems like there're two school of thoughts on this matter.
 

All in a Day

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Lunch time on a Friday, lots of time to read prompted by Jthinking & Koburn :D

Seems like there's an association of Savile Row Tailors (huntsman, Gieves, Norton etc), and here's their definition of Bespoke (at least in the Savile row sense?)
http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/

+++
Every Savile Row Bespoke garment has its own individually handmade pattern, cut by a Master Cutter. It is then made under his or her personal supervision to the exacting standards for which Savile Row is famed.
+++

So then Bespoke would refer more to the DRAFTING and CUTTING process than it would the construction? Of course from scratch and no blocks.

So then in the Savile row sense, KJ, Dylan, SoA etc where individuals draft a personal pattern and cut would be bespoke?

Good food for thought

Seems like the more things are done from scratch and the less people involved (some say should only be 1 person but I don't think he weaves the cloth or produces the buttons :D), the higher up it moves on the scale towards 'true' bespoke.

Pardon the Friday afternoon mindless banter. :s13:
 

chickenbackside

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That's why I used the term "Boasts" :s13::s13::s13:

Should ask CBS what he reckons since he also reported the same.

Dont forget Meiko as well!
I simply take it at face value. I believe "claims" would be accurate.

It really doesn't bother me whether it's the tailor himself sewing my button holes or his button hole specialist apprentice. I just want a finished product that is befitting of the claim.
 

likehotbutter

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SOA for shirts yes. KJ I believe only for pants. Dylan, I have my reservations. Lusso, while based on what Koburn says feels close to a Bespoke piece but is still a question mark.

In addition, I believe a paper pattern does not equate to a higher quality product as well. Some of the more advanced tailors from the older generation, eg Meiko and Chan draft on the cloth itself. Seems like there're two school of thoughts on this matter.

A paper pattern itself isnt a mark of quality

A bespoke paper pattern however is a higher level scratch drafted pattern for an individual which def helps to fulfill the drafting portion of the Savile Bespoke "requirements".

But diff fabrics have different weights and weave so def not a simple strike and cut affair even when using an individual pattern

I dont know if Dylan cuts his own cloth for his bespoke paper pattern but its def drafted from scratch with formula and free hand (rock of the eye)

Bespoke is one of those things which places an emphasis on provenance. You can have a mtm which for all practical purpose bears negligible differences to a bespoke in terms of fit and feel. But due to its provenance cannot be termed Bespoke. Like comparing a GTR or a Ferrari
 
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All in a Day

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A paper pattern itself isnt a mark of quality

A bespoke paper pattern however is a higher level scratch drafted pattern for an individual which def helps to fulfill the drafting portion of the Savile Bespoke "requirements".

But diff fabrics have different weights and weave so def not a simple strike and cut affair even when using an individual pattern

I dont know if Dylan cuts his own cloth for his bespoke paper pattern but its def drafted from scratch with formula and free hand (rock of the eye)

Bespoke is one of those things which places an emphasis on provenance. You can have a mtm which for all practical purpose bears negligible differences to a bespoke in terms of fit and feel. But due to its provenance cannot be termed Bespoke. Like comparing a GTR or a Ferrari

From what i am gathering, bespoke is a process not the result. An excellent fitting and well made shirt is not bespoke if it is not done in a manner qualifying it to be one whilst a shirt done "in adherence" to bespoke standards (whatever that may be) and therefore conferred the title of a "bespoken shirt" need not necessarily be the best fitting one, though a strong correlation is expected between both.
 

K|muRa^84

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perhaps add Xin En to the list ?

3 pairs of pants for $150. Fit is very decent.
 

Passerby1980

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A paper pattern itself isnt a mark of quality

A bespoke paper pattern however is a higher level scratch drafted pattern for an individual which def helps to fulfill the drafting portion of the Savile Bespoke "requirements".

But diff fabrics have different weights and weave so def not a simple strike and cut affair even when using an individual pattern

I dont know if Dylan cuts his own cloth for his bespoke paper pattern but its def drafted from scratch with formula and free hand (rock of the eye)

Bespoke is one of those things which places an emphasis on provenance. You can have a mtm which for all practical purpose bears negligible differences to a bespoke in terms of fit and feel. But due to its provenance cannot be termed Bespoke. Like comparing a GTR or a Ferrari

Apologies if I did not clarify myself. If I had to share in your terms, a bespoke paper pattern may not equate to higher quality. There're several old school guys that believes in drafting directly on the fabrics itself.

I also definitely agree that it is not so much a strike and cut affair, but not so much due to the weight and weave, but more of how the fabric responds to the ironwork and stretching. :)
 

Mogan23

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Anyone know if pleats on pants can be removed??

don't like the pleats, and I want to alter the crotch area, excess cloth there makes it bulge out
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Sent from pulau semakau offshore landfill using GAGT
 

learningdandy

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I know Ramon back when he started his journey into menswear at Clothesmith.

Havnt tried Herslet however so no experience with their construction or techniques but with my pass experience with him, he has a pretty good eye for dimensions. Just personally not into too flashy stuff.

Thanks! He seems like a pretty sincere dude who's quite passionate about his craft!
 

learningdandy

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Anyone interested to try On Kay Jen and wanna share? He has this promotion going on till the end of the year!
 

zan82

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Hello just want to enq how much does it roughly cost for a pants @ KJ?:)

I made a VBC pants with Matt at $270, though I think this is before another round of price increase and the current promotion. He does have in house fabrics which will be cheaper, however.
 
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