View Full Version : possible to tap light switch to power switch ?
enhanzed
25-11-2007, 02:04 PM
i need a power switch ( 1 or 2 gang) beside my light switch ..wondering if its possible to tap from the light switch ?
Assimilator
26-11-2007, 11:00 AM
In other countries, you may just heck care and DIY install an extra power switch by tapping into existing power source. However, this is SG, you might need a certified electrician to do that, especially if you're staying in HDB.
henrylbh
26-11-2007, 11:54 AM
i need a power switch ( 1 or 2 gang) beside my light switch ..wondering if its possible to tap from the light switch ?
Why not? I ran an extension from my water heater wiring to a flourescent tube in a wooden box in my toilet as a downlight above my large mirror.
Do whatever you want as long as you know what you are doing and the risk involved if any. Heck care whether you need HDB approval.
sunsetbay
26-11-2007, 12:12 PM
u can extend a lighting point from the existing power socket but not advisable to do it the other way round. light fitting uses 11A power while power socket uses 13A beside even if open up the light switch, u will only see the Live cables, u still hv to lay the Neutral & Earth cables from other point. :s22:
enhanzed
26-11-2007, 12:17 PM
wa sibeh chiem leh ...catch no ball
sunsetbay
26-11-2007, 02:21 PM
if u open the light switch, u will see two or three cables using same color. they are all under LIVE. the neutral & earth cables are connected directly to the light fittings.
even if u really want to tap the light switch to a new power socket, u still hv to lay the N & E wirings to the power socket. :s22:
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/1313/lightngpoint01aa8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
henrylbh
26-11-2007, 03:31 PM
if u open the light switch, u will see two or three cables using same color. they are all under LIVE. the neutral & earth cables are connected directly to the light fittings.
even if u really want to tap the light switch to a new power socket, u still hv to lay the N & E wirings to the power socket. :s22:
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/1313/lightngpoint01aa8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
No not ALL are live wires. Only one L, one N and one E. Stupid (or rather clever) contractor did not use different colored cables so that you would have to depend on him. That I know cause I ask the contractor why all cables are red when one supposed to be black or blue and one green (or green and yellow). Your test pen will tell you which is L. I also understand the current shock from the black is more serious than the red.
HDB should insist all electrical contractor to abibe by a standard color code for cables.
henrylbh
26-11-2007, 03:42 PM
if u open the light switch, u will see two or three cables using same color. they are all under LIVE. the neutral & earth cables are connected directly to the light fittings.
even if u really want to tap the light switch to a new power socket, u still hv to lay the N & E wirings to the power socket. :s22:
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/1313/lightngpoint01aa8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
In my previous house, not all the cables in the socket are red. They are green, black (some blue) and red (some brown). In my present house, I notice all are red after the cabling is done. Had to screw my renovation contractor.
henrylbh
26-11-2007, 04:22 PM
In my earlier post on 5 Nov (BLACK OUT), some points will have 2 black cables. So if they are disconnected, some other sockets in other location will also lose connection.
sunsetbay
26-11-2007, 06:03 PM
No not ALL are live wires. Only one L, one N and one E. Stupid (or rather clever) contractor did not use different colored cables so that you would have to depend on him. That I know cause I ask the contractor why all cables are red when one supposed to be black or blue and one green (or green and yellow). Your test pen will tell you which is L. I also understand the current shock from the black is more serious than the red.
HDB should insist all electrical contractor to abibe by a standard color code for cables.
all are live. this is a standard of laying the cables. they uses red becos its red phase over here, it can be yellow or blue. switches only perform opening & closing of the LIVE current. if u take a look on the switch, there's only two connectors for connection. some switches hv three connectors but two of them are linked together. as said earlier the N & E are connected directly to the light fittings. :s22:
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8910/lightngpoint01bej3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
henrylbh
27-11-2007, 03:59 PM
all are live. this is a standard of laying the cables. they uses red becos its red phase over here, it can be yellow or blue. switches only perform opening & closing of the LIVE current. if u take a look on the switch, there's only two connectors for connection. some switches hv three connectors but two of them are linked together. as said earlier the N & E are connected directly to the light fittings. :s22:
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8910/lightngpoint01bej3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
From what I understand the electric circuit will need minimum of 2 wires - one live (or hot wire) and one neutral (for returning current).
The 2 that are connected should be neutral (N) and the one by itself is live (L). For layman like us, it should be colored black for N and red for L.
Otherwise, when you have 3 wires exposed you wont know which one is for what. When I saw all red wires hanging in my house before the electrician completed the connection, I was wondering which is which.
This morning I removed my dimmer switch from my old house for my new house. The wires are of different colors - green, black and red. I also took down all the hologen lamps and noticed that all the wires are colored differently.
straycurrent
27-11-2007, 04:14 PM
From what I understand the electric circuit will need minimum of 2 wires - one live (or hot wire) and one neutral (for returning current).
The 2 that are connected should be neutral (N) and the one by itself is live (L). For layman like us, it should be colored black for N and red for L.
Otherwise, when you have 3 wires exposed you wont know which one is for what. When I saw all red wires hanging in my house before the electrician completed the connection, I was wondering which is which.
This morning I removed my dimmer switch from my old house for my new house. The wires are of different colors - green, black and red. I also took down all the hologen lamps and noticed that all the wires are colored differently.
Pls do not miss lead other. Light switch usually 2 or 3 wire.
if 2 wire - 1 wire is incoming live , the other is for the light so whne u switch on..the 1st live will
pass to the 2nd wire to the light.
if 3 wire, 2 wire are live and 1 is use to supply to another light switch....
what you talking about is power point wiring...
Normally light switch wire are red of course the contractor can use any color as they want.
Power point have red/blue and green.
ASKHabit
27-11-2007, 05:02 PM
From what I understand the electric circuit will need minimum of 2 wires - one live (or hot wire) and one neutral (for returning current).
The 2 that are connected should be neutral (N) and the one by itself is live (L). For layman like us, it should be colored black for N and red for L.
Otherwise, when you have 3 wires exposed you wont know which one is for what. When I saw all red wires hanging in my house before the electrician completed the connection, I was wondering which is which.
This morning I removed my dimmer switch from my old house for my new house. The wires are of different colors - green, black and red. I also took down all the hologen lamps and noticed that all the wires are colored differently.
Ligthing cabling and power point cabling is different. It can be dangerous if layman try to figure out how it work. Even if you wrongly wire the cable, it will work....but the cable can un-noticingly become "LIVE" alway.
Straycurrent is right about the wiring work...
henrylbh
27-11-2007, 05:21 PM
Ligthing cabling and power point cabling is different. It can be dangerous if layman try to figure out how it work. Even if you wrongly wire the cable, it will work....but the cable can un-noticingly become "LIVE" alway.
Straycurrent is right about the wiring work...
As mentioned, I have removed the switches for lighting points, there are 3 wires - red, black and green. I have also removed my ceiling lamp, there were 5 wires - 2 green wired together. 2 black and 1 white. When leaving the wire exposed, other rooms got no light. I had to tape the 2 black together before other rooms got light.
I have also remove the wires from power points (15amp for air con) to the source, there are 3 wires - red, black and green. So they seem the same. Only amp is different.
For layman, we will may end up with wrong connection if the wires are not properly colored, like in my present house. The electrician used all red wires for lighting as well as power points. Like that, I now cannot DIY.
sunsetbay
27-11-2007, 06:50 PM
From what I understand the electric circuit will need minimum of 2 wires - one live (or hot wire) and one neutral (for returning current).
The 2 that are connected should be neutral (N) and the one by itself is live (L). For layman like us, it should be colored black for N and red for L.
Otherwise, when you have 3 wires exposed you wont know which one is for what. When I saw all red wires hanging in my house before the electrician completed the connection, I was wondering which is which.
This morning I removed my dimmer switch from my old house for my new house. The wires are of different colors - green, black and red. I also took down all the hologen lamps and noticed that all the wires are colored differently.
yes, u need at least L & N inorder for the electrical appliances to work but as said earlier the neutral is connected directly to the light fitting, there's no need to go thru the switch. u will still see the L N E cables in the light fitting but not in the switch.
if i want to troubleshoot the 3 exposed wires, let say the switch cover gone missing (im referring to the above diagram example), i can use a test pen, only one of them will be shown Live. connect one of two unknown wires to the Live (off the MCB before u connect) to see whether the light is turn on or not. i would eventually trace the unknown wires.
what type of dimmer switch r u using? the one with a separate switch beside it or just the dimmer knob control. the former one, u will see 4 wirings. if it just a knob, the connection is the same as a normal switch.
this is a dia of a dimmer control with a switch beside it. none of them are neutral or earth.
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/2712/dimmerswitch01yc2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
on your halogen light, u will see more wiring as it links to another halogen lights. and if u r using the 50w 12v bulb, there will be a transformer hidden in the false ceiling or at the casing. maybe u wanna show us your dimmer switch pic. :s22:
ASKHabit
28-11-2007, 09:59 AM
i need a power switch ( 1 or 2 gang) beside my light switch ..wondering if its possible to tap from the light switch ?
The answer should be NO. It will likely to trip your ELCB(circuit breaker). If this power outlet is use for need high power equipment, it may draw too much current and blow your circuit breaker and catch fire.
Get a certified electrician to do the work for you. Dont save hundred over dollar and get the house burn down.
henrylbh
28-11-2007, 12:22 PM
yes, u need at least L & N inorder for the electrical appliances to work but as said earlier the neutral is connected directly to the light fitting, there's no need to go thru the switch. u will still see the L N E cables in the light fitting but not in the switch.
if i want to troubleshoot the 3 exposed wires, let say the switch cover gone missing (im referring to the above diagram example), i can use a test pen, only one of them will be shown Live. connect one of two unknown wires to the Live (off the MCB before u connect) to see whether the light is turn on or not. i would eventually trace the unknown wires.
what type of dimmer switch r u using? the one with a separate switch beside it or just the dimmer knob control. the former one, u will see 4 wirings. if it just a knob, the connection is the same as a normal switch.
this is a dia of a dimmer control with a switch beside it. none of them are neutral or earth.
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/2712/dimmerswitch01yc2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
on your halogen light, u will see more wiring as it links to another halogen lights. and if u r using the 50w 12v bulb, there will be a transformer hidden in the false ceiling or at the casing. maybe u wanna show us your dimmer switch pic. :s22:
Thanks for the details as it sets me thinking. But there are 3 wires connected to the back of my dimmer knob control instead of 1 as shown in your diagram. All my wiring are concealed except the wiring for 12 halogen lamps that have been installed and hidden above the cornice.
Like you said, it is an important reminder to off the MCB before one start to do or undo the wiring.
henrylbh
28-11-2007, 03:48 PM
Hi sunsetbay,
Pic of my dimmer control switch
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/4002/12542329dc5.th.jpg (http://img406.imageshack.us/my.php?image=12542329dc5.jpg)
Pic of wiring from transformer of halogen lamp
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/561/64303705oe9.th.jpg (http://img507.imageshack.us/my.php?image=64303705oe9.jpg)
Pic of extension of wiring from water heater to flourescent tube.
[IMG=http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/2605/86244350co3.th.jpg] (http://img516.imageshack.us/my.php?image=86244350co3.jpg)
sunsetbay
28-11-2007, 04:57 PM
Hi sunsetbay,
Pic of my dimmer control switch
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/4002/12542329dc5.th.jpg (http://img406.imageshack.us/my.php?image=12542329dc5.jpg)
does the switch on the right control the on/ off of halogen light as well?? there's one short wire sticker beside the 3 cables, was that a wire or screw? can't see clearly. is the 2nd dimmer able to work when the first one is unconnected? :s22:
henrylbh
28-11-2007, 05:27 PM
does the switch on the right control the on/ off of halogen light as well?? there's one short wire sticker beside the 3 cables, was that a wire or screw? can't see clearly. is the 2nd dimmer able to work when the first one is unconnected? :s22:
There are 2 red and 1 white wires in the recess after I removed the dimmer switch that control my 12 halogen lamps.
The second dimmer switch control my centre ceiling lamp. They are independent, though I noted the electrician has taped the source from the second dimmer which was originally a normal light switch for the ceiling light.
The third one is also the original light switch also for another the ceiling light which the electrician converted to switch on 4 flourescent tubes at each side of the cornice.
sunsetbay
28-11-2007, 08:33 PM
one of the red could be live, another red goes to another switch or could be dead since it has been modify before. the white shld go to the transformer. shldnt be diff to trace with the test pen. :s22:
keltong
27-03-2008, 10:43 AM
all are live. this is a standard of laying the cables. they uses red becos its red phase over here, it can be yellow or blue. switches only perform opening & closing of the LIVE current. if u take a look on the switch, there's only two connectors for connection. some switches hv three connectors but two of them are linked together. as said earlier the N & E are connected directly to the light fittings. :s22:
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8910/lightngpoint01bej3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Hi, in this example, with the 3 wires, and the light switch has 2 connection that says '1' and 'L'. The one wire goes to which? and the 2 wires together goes to which? Thanks.
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