Where to tailor clothes =D - Part 3

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oeuvre

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Made a shirt at Sze Sze recently. Not impressed to be honest. Didn't really take a close look at the shirt till I got home.

1) Shirt does not come with darts. Do you guys prefer shirts with or without darts? I think darts would be better to clean up some excess fabric behind? Many of my other shirts have it, even MTM ones.

2) I chose a very dark grey/black fabric for my inner collar. Aunty said that they will make my button holes grey as well, to match the fabric. But the button holes were light grey, very different from my inner collar.

3) The shirt I wore to make my shirt had 5 normal buttons and 2 hidden ones (between 3rd and 4th and 4th and 5th visible button to prevent tummy area from opening up) which I thought was a good idea and showed it to the aunty. But the shirt was made with 7 normal buttons... may be a tad too many buttons for my short height of ~1.65m? Though maybe not a big issue since 7th button will be covered by my pants.

4) I have no idea why, but the collar seems to open up very wide in a very awkward way. Is this anything to do with the shorter collar (2 3/4")? Or cos they used to do spread collars (aunty said their default is spread)? Or something to do with my million dollar collar inside?

Pictures here
http://imgur.com/a/gSriz

Already paid in full, I don't think I will be able to change the button hole threads and collar... but any idea if they will add darts without charge?

1) I prefer no darts as it looks cleaner. Unless you favor the very fitted look, excess fabric at the back is reduced when tailored properly. Darts have to be specified to them beforehand if you want it, not 'standard'. They can still add darts for you, shouldn't incur an extra charge.

2) Maybe it was written as grey on the order sheet as per your instructions, and the factory interpreted it as grey, and not to be matched with the inner collar almost black color. Unfortunately such things happen, even at higher tiered establishments. Just have to be sure it's communicated clearly next time, can't assume. Doesn't look bad to me though. Not sure if it can be changed.

3) Again, they normally will do their 'standard' number of buttons unless specified. Then they will tell you if it's possible depending on whether the factory is able or willing to do it or not.

4) Looks like a semi spread collar and the collar point length looks pretty standard. Perhaps you're used to point collars, maybe you'll grow to like them.

Additionally, fit wise, looks pretty good.
 
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w4rdsg

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Suggested way to start: Go to sites like pinterest and start saving pics of what you think you like. Show them here to ask for feedback (each member here obviously have their own taste as well though). Ask questions about the suit in the picture (what material is this, what do you call this kind of pocket, etc). Bring to show the tailor you decided to go with.

I think this is good advice. First time I had a suit made I was unprepared and a little overwhelmed by the number of decisions to make.
Second time I found one I liked in a catalog and took that in with me to use as a reference when making choices. Much less stressful!
 

oeuvre

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Hi everyone, I have been reading thru the thread. But honestly I am a little confused by all the terms used. I am trying to find a tailor to make a suit for my wedding. Obviously this is my first time. So any help or recommendation of any tailors will be good. Thanks in advance very much

For a start, I'll suggest a visit to Suit Supply at ION, even though they are OTR. You'll be able to try on fully made up jackets to see how the different configurations will work on you, there will be also be a sales person there to give you advice and answer your questions. Their cuts are modern and they present value for money, they provide in house alterations charged separately.

Hopefully you will be less confused with all the terms after that, then decide if tailoring is the way to go for you. Because sometimes the suit may not turn out the way you had imagined it to be, especially if one is new to tailoring.
 

arcfire

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Made a shirt at Sze Sze recently. Not impressed to be honest. Didn't really take a close look at the shirt till I got home.

1) Shirt does not come with darts. Do you guys prefer shirts with or without darts? I think darts would be better to clean up some excess fabric behind? Many of my other shirts have it, even MTM ones.

2) I chose a very dark grey/black fabric for my inner collar. Aunty said that they will make my button holes grey as well, to match the fabric. But the button holes were light grey, very different from my inner collar.

3) The shirt I wore to make my shirt had 5 normal buttons and 2 hidden ones (between 3rd and 4th and 4th and 5th visible button to prevent tummy area from opening up) which I thought was a good idea and showed it to the aunty. But the shirt was made with 7 normal buttons... may be a tad too many buttons for my short height of ~1.65m? Though maybe not a big issue since 7th button will be covered by my pants.

4) I have no idea why, but the collar seems to open up very wide in a very awkward way. Is this anything to do with the shorter collar (2 3/4")? Or cos they used to do spread collars (aunty said their default is spread)? Or something to do with my million dollar collar inside?

Pictures here
http://imgur.com/a/gSriz

Already paid in full, I don't think I will be able to change the button hole threads and collar... but any idea if they will add darts without charge?

1) Like what most others have mentioned. Darts are not standard features. Different tailors have different sop. You need to be specific otherwise it defaults to their sop. Darts have their use, contrary to what some believe but not everyone needs to have them. Another use of darts allow you to widen at the waist without touching the seams for a quick letting out in case you get fat at the waist. Not an ideal thing but allows you to continue to wear the shirt that you like.
If there is nothing wrong with the back at the waist area, I do not suggest trying to add on darts at this point for no reason other than to have darts. There may not be sufficient fabric to allow you to do this.

2) On close look, the grey does seem to match the lighter of the 2 shades that you have for the contrasting area. So technically it's not wrong either. Sometime we have to be really specific. In this case it's probably a mis-comm.

3) I've not seen a shirt with such button placements and would like to see it. Could you show me a pic of the shirt you have mentioned?

4) Might be because you didn't button up the 1st button in your 1st pic? Or maybe you're not used to the spread collar. Button up your collar button and have a look.


Overall I'd think your shirt is mighty fine.
 
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arcfire

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Hi everyone, I have been reading thru the thread. But honestly I am a little confused by all the terms used. I am trying to find a tailor to make a suit for my wedding. Obviously this is my first time. So any help or recommendation of any tailors will be good. Thanks in advance very much

You gotta state your budget and timeframe.
 

icyspawn

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Thanks for all the inputs guys.

I've made a fair share of MTM shirts (PA, Rossi etc) before and most of them came with darts. The shirt I wore to Sze Sze was a shirt made at PA recently. Figured that I should wear my best fitting shirt to get my measurements taken. The PA shirt came with darts and the unconventional hidden buttons (it was actually suggested by Diana, which I thought would be a good idea, so thought of doing it again), so I assumed the aunty knew what I wanted. Pictures of the hidden buttons http://imgur.com/a/gstP4
Regarding the button holes, I did say I want black button holes to match fabric, but aunty said the inner fabric was grey, so I assumed "ok, aunty should know better, maybe it's charcoal grey". I guess it doesn't look bad per se, just not what I expected.

I guess Sze Sze is more of a traditional tailor where u will need to be v precise about your requirements, whereas places like PA are more of designers. Will probably leave the shirt as it is, and wear it for a while before deciding what to do with my next shirt.
 
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kianzzz

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You gotta state your budget and timeframe.

I have like 3 months and I don't know what's the Budget for a decent suit. But I m prepared to pay up to $1.5k or more if need be.

Anyway thanks to everyone for the advise. I will prob read up more and seek advise again.
 

arcfire

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Thanks for all the inputs guys.

I've made a fair share of MTM shirts (PA, Rossi etc) before and most of them came with darts. The shirt I wore to Sze Sze was a shirt made at PA recently. Figured that I should wear my best fitting shirt to get my measurements taken. The PA shirt came with darts and the unconventional hidden buttons (it was actually suggested by Diana, which I thought would be a good idea, so thought of doing it again), so I assumed the aunty knew what I wanted. Pictures of the hidden buttons http://imgur.com/a/gstP4
Regarding the button holes, I did say I want black button holes to match fabric, but aunty said the inner fabric was grey, so I assumed "ok, aunty should know better, maybe it's charcoal grey". I guess it doesn't look bad per se, just not what I expected.

I guess Sze Sze is more of a traditional tailor where u will need to be v precise about your requirements, whereas places like PA are more of designers. Will probably leave the shirt as it is, and wear it for a while before deciding what to do with my next shirt.

I think that applies to any tailor. Its more of whether the tailor has a personal style that resonate to.

Bring the same shirt to 10 different tailors without telling them what to do and I think you'll end up with 10 different shirts. At least the fit for the shirt you did is not bad.

Lesson learned and off to the next commission! :D
 

jonleelk

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I have like 3 months and I don't know what's the Budget for a decent suit. But I m prepared to pay up to $1.5k or more if need be.

Anyway thanks to everyone for the advise. I will prob read up more and seek advise again.
Lusso and Private Affairs. U can get a branded mill 100% wool full canvas for slightly less than $1.5k.
 

arcfire

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Looks mighty fine Arc! What's the fabric? Looks rather linen to me. Interesting!
What about Fit pics for the trousers?

Thanks Dom! Yes it's linen indeed. Trousers are on baste now. Need some minor tweaks and I didn't take any pics of that. Will show the end product when I get them. Hopefully it will look as good as the fit pics
 
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