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Air conditioning - Any recommendations please??

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Old 25-07-2012, 06:30 PM   #2971
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Please all, avoid Mitsubishi Heavy Industry. The official agent Wo Kee Hong is a piece of f***ing s***.

They don't know what they're doing, are not very responsible and the aircon they "fixed" for me last Sep 2011 has now run completely out of gas(!!) and they want more of my money to "test further".

More details
Mitsubishi Heavy Industries Air Con Malfunction - RenoTalk .com ™

Am now looking for reliable air-con repair. Any recommendations? Heard coolserve is good?

Last edited by sakuraplush; 25-07-2012 at 06:33 PM..
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Old 26-07-2012, 01:31 AM   #2972
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To ulupandan,

Call ME and see what they comment.
They should be able to find cause of fault, if piping is @ fault, your installer have to come back and settle it. Not ME.
ME only warranty the equipment.
Gas level should be ok, as the other 2 rooms is cold (IMO)

To sakuraplush,

Most likely your system is having gas leak.
Need a pressure test to determine leaking area.
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Old 26-07-2012, 11:41 AM   #2973
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21btu or 28btu for system 3?

Hi all,

I'm getting a Midea Sys 3 x 9k btu 9A5 for my new 4rm hdb flat. I was recommended a 21k btu compressor & all grade A installation (1/2 Armaflex + G23 copper). The salesman says 21k btu is sufficient for my 3 x 9k btu aircons. Most likely all 3 rooms aircons will run 8hrs daily.

But based on logic, 3 x 9k btu should use a 28k btu compressor mah since total adds up to 27k btu?

If i use a 21k btu compressor:
1) Wouldn't the compressor work harder to support all 3 x 9k btu aircons & electricity consumption goes up?
2) Can any guru explain if 21k btu or 28k btu better for my home?

Thanks a million for reading my post...guys!
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Old 26-07-2012, 07:04 PM   #2974
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Hi terumo

Could you give me your opinion on whether the gas leak was caused by bad installation or poor repair? My story is as follows:

I don't use air con very often, only during the hotter times of the year, and only at night. After the warranty was up (1 yr), my system (2 aircons, inverter) started having the problem of not being able to keep blowing cold air. After 2-3 hours of use the air would end up warm. The aircon would make noises like gushing air sounds.

Called the WKH people in. After feeding me BS about the remote control settings, they finally admitted there may be a tech fault - The pressure in the gas tank was wrong or something, according to them. They proceeded to charge me to change some circuit board in the condenser. That didn't work. They then swapped the thermostat sensor, which also didn't solve the issue. Eventually they took the entire condensor / compressor back to their shop and didn't return it until 2-3 weeks later. They never told me what they did. That was in Sept 2011. Air con was cold again after this. Not Freezing, even though I have tried the lowest temp setting. But cold enough for my comfort needs. Still had air gushing sounds from time to time though.

In May 2012 the aircon stopped being cold again. Called them in and they said the cold gas tank was completely empty.

To me, it sounds like they may have sold me some useless hardware changes, but fixed something in the end. I suspect they screwed up something in the re-installing of the condenser unit. Not sure if that's correct. My logic is - I had the aircon running for 2 years where the gas didn't empty itself, but now 9 months after "repair" the tank has gone to zero.
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Old 26-07-2012, 09:13 PM   #2975
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Hmm...
8 months n the gas is now empty.
Get them to check the nut joint connections ESP the outdoor unit area as that time they dismantle and fix back.
If no signs of leak, might have to do pressure test to determine leaking area.
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Old 27-07-2012, 01:58 PM   #2976
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Hi terumo;

ME Tech came by to check. They did 2 kind of check, one for the outdoor and one for the indoor. The check was done focusing only on the Main bdrm as that was what I complaint about that was not cool enough. The AC was allow to run for a while (abt 15-20mins before they start doing the check). They also set the Main bdrm FCU to 16 deg C and FULL fan speed (ie 4-bars=maximum)

Outdoor:
1. They check the compressor (think that's what they call it) and said that the reading was stable (one of the equipment used was a ring-like meter with numbers shown on the display). They mentioned that the current drawn was within the ME spec. Hence, they concluded to be ok.
2. They check the gas with some kind of gauges and was ok, no overcharge or undercharge.
3. Ask them about the cross or bent pipe, ME Tech advise that since there is no fluctuation from the measurement, it can be concluded that there is no cross or bent pipe.

Indoor FCU:
1. The ME Tech use some kind of equipment to measure the "cold-air" coming out from the the FCU. The equipment was place very near to the running fan. Was shown the reading abt 14 deg C. Was told the technical spec for the FCU was in the range of 10-15 deg C. The reading "improve" to abt 11.7 deg C after about 1 1/2 hours. Based on this, they concluded that the FCU and the sensor to be ok. I was told that there was an opening on the side of the FCU for the temp sensor and that the opening should not be block for proper function of the FCU.
2. ME Tech concluded that as the FCU in the Main bdrm is giving the "cold" air according to the remote control input, there is no cross wire or cross pipe connection.

However, the Main bdrm temperature was able to come down to abt 21 deg C using the "equipment" that I'd previously been using to measure the other bdrms. The only difference now is that the "equipment" was place facing the FCU (abt 3.5 meter away and in front of the FCU) as compared to the previous occassion of placing it directly below under the FCU, about 1.5 meters below. They then set the remote control temperature back to 18 deg C and the room temp is able to maintain at 21 deg C.

So, since that the equipment & FCU are found to be ok and within the ME tech spec, there is really nothing they can do or fix. At least, there is no cross pipe and no cross wire, and no gas shortage and no bent pipe issue. So, no installer issue.

Now thinking back, I should have requested that they check the Main bdrm with all 3 FCUs running and see if able to achieve the 21-23 deg C for all the 3 bdrms that I was wishing for.

But at least now, in order to achieve the room temperature that I want, my understanding is that I need to run the fan at maximum speed+lowest temperature setting until the require room temperature is achieved and then reduce the fan speed and increase the temperature to the required temperature for the FCU to maintain.

So, in my conclusion, the possibility of "under-size" on the FCU for the Main bdrm keeps ringing in my mind. But, if you have any views or input or advise, do share with me. Thanks in advance.

Did ask for the ME Tech advise/input on the size of the FCU for the Main bdrm, based on my requirement of running all the 3 FCUs together and to achieve a room temperature of 21 deg C. In their own opinion (not ME) and purely on tech spec, the 18k FCU is prefer over the 24k FCU. This is because the 24k FCU may affect the 2 other smaller bdrm when all the 3 FCUs are running, while with the 18k FCU, will have the "ideal loading", ie the outdoor match with that of the indoors requirement. This will also save the haste from future complain that the other rooms may not be cool enough. Any comments?

Also, they rather I check with AC installer with better knowledge on sizing of the Room to FCU requirement.

Meanwhile, will continue to monitor over the next few days and see if I can "re-adapt" and adjust to this "new" expectation of the FCU, or any new discovery.

To ulupandan,

Call ME and see what they comment.
They should be able to find cause of fault, if piping is @ fault, your installer have to come back and settle it. Not ME.
ME only warranty the equipment.
Gas level should be ok, as the other 2 rooms is cold (IMO)
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Old 27-07-2012, 10:05 PM   #2977
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Ur Me fcu 12k and 9k pipe size is the same.
If upgrade to 18k, need to change piping.
So quite hassle.
Use the methods the ME tech suggested and monitor first ba.
If the fancoil can give out temp of 14, it's considered normal.
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Old 27-07-2012, 11:39 PM   #2978
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Make A/c sense?

Hi, I'm getting an a/c system for my new flat soon.

Please enlighten me what works better.

1 Mbr(3x4m) + 2 Br (3x3.8m) + LR (3.5x8m)w corridor (4X1m) to be airconditioned

Mbr (12 or 18 btu) will be used whole night, every night and some afternoons

2 (2x 9btu) other bedrooms will be hardly used. Maybe one bedroom sometimes during the hot afternoons.

LR (24 btu) - during hot afternoons and evenings or when i have guests.
but should be hardly used category as well.

I'm tempted to get 1 split (inverter) unit for MBR and a System 3 inverter for 2 BR + LR.

If my Mbr screws up or needs frequent servicing, at least i reduced the cost to just one split unit and its compressor.

Does this make sense? Or i should get the typical all bedrooms to have system 3 and LR on its own?
Thanks!

I
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Old 29-07-2012, 02:40 PM   #2979
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Hi, my casement unit Sanyo SAC-88G recently spoil.. my model seems like eol alr.. anyone noe whr can get one ?? or any other good model recommendation ??
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Old 29-07-2012, 11:19 PM   #2980
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To innerlight10,

Mbr 9k btu, br2 and br3 9k btu.
Living 18k btu.

If your house can install 2 compressor.
Then mbr get a single split is a good idea.
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Old 30-07-2012, 09:46 PM   #2981
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upzzz

Hi all,

I'm getting a Midea Sys 3 x 9k btu 9A5 for my new 4rm hdb flat. I was recommended a 21k btu compressor & all grade A installation (1/2 Armaflex + G23 copper). The salesman says 21k btu is sufficient for my 3 x 9k btu aircons. Most likely all 3 rooms aircons will run 8hrs daily.

But based on logic, 3 x 9k btu should use a 28k btu compressor mah since total adds up to 27k btu?

If i use a 21k btu compressor:
1) Wouldn't the compressor work harder to support all 3 x 9k btu aircons & electricity consumption goes up?
2) Can any guru explain if 21k btu or 28k btu better for my home?

Thanks a million for reading my post...guys![/QUOTE]
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Old 30-07-2012, 11:17 PM   #2982
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Hi all,

I'm getting a Midea Sys 3 x 9k btu 9A5 for my new 4rm hdb flat. I was recommended a 21k btu compressor & all grade A installation (1/2 Armaflex + G23 copper). The salesman says 21k btu is sufficient for my 3 x 9k btu aircons. Most likely all 3 rooms aircons will run 8hrs daily.

But based on logic, 3 x 9k btu should use a 28k btu compressor mah since total adds up to 27k btu?

If i use a 21k btu compressor:
1) Wouldn't the compressor work harder to support all 3 x 9k btu aircons & electricity consumption goes up?
2) Can any guru explain if 21k btu or 28k btu better for my home?

Thanks a million for reading my post...guys!
[/QUOTE]

i am using 21k btu midea sys 3. it will take some time to cool down the room. normally i also use my fan plus aircon to get the fastest coolest result.
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Old 31-07-2012, 12:07 AM   #2983
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If use 21k outdoor unit.
U on 3 at the same time, they will perform like 7k each.
7 x 3 = 21k.
To get full 9k, have to use the 28k but outdoor unit.
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:30 PM   #2984
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Hi terumo,

I did try the Main bdrm alone with remote control setting at 16 deg C + Fan = Auto + Vane = Auto. But room temperature come down from 28 deg C to about 26 deg C after about 45-minutes. Kinda long but I thought that was due to the bigger room size. And if run the AC from night till morning, lowest temperature seems is 24-25 deg C.

Also, will the ME guys able to tell if the wire or piping is cross or bent? Do they use some test equipment to identify these problem? My worries is that they may want to put the blame on something else by using these as the cause of the problem, and as I am not able to "open" and check the pipes to see if it is bent nor do I have the equipment to test whether if the wire or pipe is cross connected...

Okay, I will get the ME guys to check out the system.

Thank you for the pointers. Will ask them to look into these as well. I hope that these problems will be easy to be fix.

Is your aircon unit leaking?
Maybe is not enough gas, you can get help from Aircon Servicing - Heating, Ventilating & Air Conditioning - Singapore, Singapore | Facebook
Pump gas very cheap only.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:06 AM   #2985
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old post but same same dilemma

Hi terumo,

i dug up this old post and realised my potential selection is almost similar:
3MKS50ESG (17060 BTU) / 2 x FTKS25 (8530 BTU) / 1 x FTKS35 (11942 BTU)

i am about to overhaul the current 7-yr old system-3 for the 5rm HDB.

i have assessed the situation as such:

MBR (approx 6m x 3.5m) will get the S35
BR 2 & 3 (approx 4.5m x 3.5m) will get those S25s

MBR starts usage from 10pm until 7am daily
BR 2 starts usage from 12midnight until 8 am daily
BR 3 hardly in use, maybe on warm daytime/evening only

Due to not wanting to blow a huge hole in my pocket, i decided to get only a 17060 BTU condenser (while still on the mark for an inverter+R410A) since not all 3 indoor units will be used concurrently
and
MBR should cool down nicely before BR 2 usage kicks in.

BTW, i shortlisted c**ls***e to approach for the latest quotation (website says $3,027 almost all-in but unsure if there's free upgrades or not).

so, dear resident a/c guru, any major blind-spots in my assessment ? : P
my few concerns include how overloaded the condenser may be once MBR + BR 2 are in use together, or maybe more accurately, how inefficient both the units in MBR and BR 2 will become when used together ?

and is the "loss" in operating BTU equal between the S35 and S25 under concurrent usage ?

last but not least, how would you rate the service delivery (pre-sales, sales and aftersales) of my shortlisted vendor ?

i am waiting for all stars to align and then i will hoot the system-3!
meantime, thank you in advance for your expert opinion.

cheers
a



Hdb rooms in general require abt 6-7k btu cooling capacity.
3mks50esg has around 18k btu. It is a sys 3. Its suitable for owners who on 1-2 rooms daily. But the 3rd room (study room or guest room) is used less often.
If u install 3mks50, u on 3 rooms at the same time, it will be cooling but not every cold (as in room temp reach 20-22) Maybe your room can reach 23-25.
U may consider 3mkd75dvm (r22) or Mit Electric 3a28. Similar costing as 3mks50.

Last edited by m2happyone; 05-08-2012 at 01:14 AM..
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