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233mmx

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When I started using broadlink products, the Alexa skill was not even existent. Kudos to third party developers who did some hacking into broadlink's APIs and created RM Tasker/Plugin that opened the doors to Alexa integration. Probably give it a bit more time and once there's sufficient demands they will have more complete integration with IFTTT


Broadlink products abit lik proprietary... They only work amongst themselves. The IFFFT they listed is referring to their own S2 hub and sensors IFFFT with Rm pro or Rm mini.

Wish they can integrate more wit other brands though so other hubs able to control rm pro at least?

In IFFFT App can see many not popular brands also but cannot find broadlink.
 

shacboi

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When I started using broadlink products, the Alexa skill was not even existent. Kudos to third party developers who did some hacking into broadlink's APIs and created RM Tasker/Plugin that opened the doors to Alexa integration. Probably give it a bit more time and once there's sufficient demands they will have more complete integration with IFTTT




yea, i started experimenting with broadlink rm pro first, den integrate Alexa too. :s13:

meanwhile mayb will go explore the S2C hub door & motion sensor for their own IFFFT.
 

233mmx

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Does it come with a remote? RM Pro can probably learn the ID string. I cannot remember if it can learn RF as well. RF is not like IR but it may work.

Your other option is to search broadlink's cloud database within the eControl app and hopefully someone else already did the same for your product and shared the ID to the database.

I've searched before and found some common ones like StarHub TV box remote, Daikin's air con remote

Another option is to use a sonoff WIFI relay switch.

I thinking of using broadlink to control my ceiling fan which uses RF. Problem is I don't know the frequency used by my Aeratron AE 3
 

newlife80

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Hi Guys...
Im new to this automation thing. i intending to buy Broadlink TC2 switch. do i need to connect the neutral wire to the switch?
Appreciate
 

ktee

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Hi Guys...
Im new to this automation thing. i intending to buy Broadlink TC2 switch. do i need to connect the neutral wire to the switch?
Appreciate

I bought the 3-gang EU type for my living room. After I installed for 3 lights, if I off all 3, my other room lights all OFF. Hence, I have no choice but to leave one switch on all the while. To prevent the light from on all the while, I have to use another switch to control the 3rd light.
 

evq

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So far, a rather bumpy journey. Bought a google home mini. Managed to voice control

1. Xiaomi Yeelight LED Ceiling light ( in living room)
2. Sonoff BN-SZ01 Led Ceiling light (in master bed room)

Been pondering on next order of business. Anyone here has a Fanco fan at home? any idea the RF frequency it uses?

Hi,

can i check with u on the Yeelight ceiling light, can u control it via the app if u are outside? eg remote access
 
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newlife80

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Hi Ktee,
That mean to say if I did not connect netural wire I will experience the same situation if I have 4x 2 gang switch in the living room?
 

ktee

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Hi Ktee,
That mean to say if I did not connect netural wire I will experience the same situation if I have 4x 2 gang switch in the living room?

I don't know about that. I am still exploring. You can try connect and see. Maybe your house wiring is different from mine.


Remember there are 3 versions of TC2 switch: US, EU and UK. I will buy UK if possible as we are using UK std here.
 

233mmx

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Hi Guys...
Im new to this automation thing. i intending to buy Broadlink TC2 switch. do i need to connect the neutral wire to the switch?
Appreciate

Your existing wiring should be 2 wires looping i.e. Live (L) and Neutral (N).

At the back of TC2 switches you have a common L node and separate N nodes for each gang switch (N1, N2 etc.)

If your current non-smart switch is 1-gang, connect the L wire to L node, N wire to N1 on the TC2.

If your current non-smart switch is 2-gang, connect both L wires to the L node, 1 N wire to N1 node and the other N wire to N2 node (depending on which switch and light you want to control)
 

233mmx

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I don't know about that. I am still exploring. You can try connect and see. Maybe your house wiring is different from mine.


Remember there are 3 versions of TC2 switch: US, EU and UK. I will buy UK if possible as we are using UK std here.

Yes, buy the UK model it will fit the box so only the non-smart faceplate need to be replaced with the TC2 smart switches.

As I mentioned in the previous post the existing wiring in your house should be looping (i.e. from 1 switch to the other and making a loop throughout your apartment).

If you connect the switches correctly, they should all work independently.
 

newlife80

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rEDXZ


Hi 233mmx,
i have a a pic of my current switch
i want to control my 2 ceiling fans and 2 tracklight in the living room
 
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AsusEpoxy

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Hi,

can i check with u on the Yeelight ceiling light, can u control it via the app if u are outside? eg remote access

yes you can.

Also do take note , if you want to integrate with Google Home, you have to register the yeelight using sg as locale and not china. So now my e light is separate from all my other devices in Mi Home :(
 

evq

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yes you can.

Also do take note , if you want to integrate with Google Home, you have to register the yeelight using sg as locale and not china. So now my e light is separate from all my other devices in Mi Home :(

oh ok, thanks for the advice.
How is Google Home?

I have a xiaomi air purifier, cant get it to registered into my Mi Home app. Just got the Xiaomi fan, no problem adding into the app, but cant get it to work remotely when I was not at home, that's why I ask about the Yeelight.

Anyway, I ordered the Yeelight, waiting for the stock.
 
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AsusEpoxy

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oh ok, thanks for the advice.
How is Google Home?

I have a xiaomi air purifier, cant get it to registered into my Mi Home app. Just got the Xiaomi fan, no problem adding into the app, but cant get it to work remotely when I was not at home, that's why I ask about the Yeelight.

Anyway, I ordered the Yeelight, waiting for the stock.

integration is through the yeelight app, not mi home app. I suspect devices directly under mi home app wont be able to integrate because Xiaomi will be promoting its own home automation through its XiaoAi smart assistant.

I was initially interested in the xiaomi fan as well....so after learning about this...maybe not.... so for standing fan, i probably will be looking at the Sonoff Ifan. Its definitely not a looker like xiaomi fan, but at least its compatible with Alexa and Google Home
 

233mmx

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Your existing wiring should be 2 wires looping i.e. Live (L) and Neutral (N).

At the back of TC2 switches you have a common L node and separate N nodes for each gang switch (N1, N2 etc.)

If your current non-smart switch is 1-gang, connect the L wire to L node, N wire to N1 on the TC2.

If your current non-smart switch is 2-gang, connect both L wires to the L node, 1 N wire to N1 node and the other N wire to N2 node (depending on which switch and light you want to control)

Oops my memory is failing me cos I did my wiring more than a year ago. I just checked again and the TC2's N node is a dummy and the gang nodes are labelled as L1, L2 etc.

here's how the wiring should be done for 1-gang and 2-gang switches:
61EFb0HapxL._SL1000_.jpg


61H9ZUZs%2BeL._SL1000_.jpg
 
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ktee

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EU type don't have the N input. How do you connect so all 3 lights and the remote will work?

HTB1rrytMpXXXXbdXVXXq6xXFXXXK.jpg
 

shacboi

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EU type don't have the N input. How do you connect so all 3 lights and the remote will work?

HTB1rrytMpXXXXbdXVXXq6xXFXXXK.jpg

The neutral in uk version.... Seems lik dunhav screw.. So is redundant not in use... Technical u can use EU version in SG i tink. The pic u show hab two screws at L1 n L3.. I tink is a two gang switch right.... If three gang, all L1 to L3 shld hav screws for u to connect all ur wires respectively.
 

233mmx

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The pic is a 2 gang switch
From the pic u posted does it mean no need neutral wire?

I'm not an electrical engineer so pardon me if I used the wrong terms, but I treat the wire with incoming current as Live and the wire leading to the respective lights as Neutral.

Pictures speaks a thousand words so please see photos:

Photo 1: Existing non-smart switch wiring (Dark Brown = Live; Light Brown = Neutral, plus a short wire to bridge the loop)
25473241928_d9c5762b5d.jpg


Photo 2: TC2 wiring (Dark Brown = Live; Light Brown = Neutral)
39312618712_815d4f0178.jpg


Photo 3: TC2 wiring top view (Dark Brown = Live; Light Brown = Neutral)
25473241708_5bbdd57fc2.jpg
 
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