Advice on ND filter

xiaosinsinful

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Recently got a new camera using lense kit 18-55. Thinking of capturing some sunset photos, Long exposure shots. Need advice on which affordable ND filters to get and where to get them from. Bearing in mind I might get some other lense in the future.
 

keenklee

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Slot-in filters.
Determine the largest filter diameter of your future lens to determine the size of the slot-in filter system.

Glass is the best but then, it will no longer be in the affordable range.

You can look at Haida or Hi-tech.

P.S.
1) try to get a ND filter with higher no. of stops. Typical 18-55mm usually max out at F/8.0
2) hmm...sunset usually GND?
 

Ah_keong

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I am using Hoya ProND 100 (6-2/3 stop), long exposure like 10 stop is also available (ProND 1000)
Do bear in mind the filter size, 67mm (Canon 10-18mm), 77mm (Canon 16-35mm f/4), etc.
 

xiaosinsinful

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Slot-in filters.
Determine the largest filter diameter of your future lens to determine the size of the slot-in filter system.

Glass is the best but then, it will no longer be in the affordable range.

You can look at Haida or Hi-tech.

P.S.
1) try to get a ND filter with higher no. of stops. Typical 18-55mm usually max out at F/8.0
2) hmm...sunset usually GND?

Hmm should I get those circular one with bigger size and get a step down Ring when I get a lense with smaller size ?

1. What No. of stops do you recommend?
2. GND sounds like a good idea or isit better that I get a variable ND filter??
 

xiaosinsinful

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I am using Hoya ProND 100 (6-2/3 stop), long exposure like 10 stop is also available (ProND 1000)
Do bear in mind the filter size, 67mm (Canon 10-18mm), 77mm (Canon 16-35mm f/4), etc.


Which stop do you recommend? Can't decide if getting one with 10 stops will be over kill(especially during sunset?), should I get a GND or a 10stop filter for sunset photography? I'm guessing that the ProND 1000 is more versatile since it can be use in day time situations while GND is more for landscapes facing the sun?
 
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EJB

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Depending on what you shoot, slot in (piece type) will be more long term as you switch lenses, you won't need to keep buying the diameter size for the lenses. You can get rings to adapt to the holder. ie: 62-82, 77-82, 52-82, this way you only need a few rings and enjoy the flexibility of owning the filter system.

It will be hefty start, easily costing you $500 with a holder, 3pc GND and ring.

If you want a single piece of ND - 10x or 18x is there in the market.

Bear in mind, circular ones, you need to frame, focus before you screw on. Each time you adjust, you need to remove it as you can't see through the darkness. Slot in filters however, no such problem... so your call.
 

Ah_keong

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Which stop do you recommend? Can't decide if getting one with 10 stops will be over kill(especially during sunset?), should I get a GND or a 10stop filter for sunset photography? I'm guessing that the ProND 1000 is more versatile since it can be use in day time situations while GND is more for landscapes facing the sun?

The answer is "It depends"
There are the circular screw on types and the rectangular slot-in types.
Both has pros and cons. The cons of the circular screw on types would be the dimension of the filters has various number and you may need step-up or step-down adapters to fit the filter size of the lens.

For focal length wider than 35mm, stacking of filters may cause dark banding (vignette) on the edges.

For example, I would recommend 3, 6, 10 stops say 77mm. For a start, you may want to try the 6 stops first.

For example, 3 stop (ProND 8) is used mainly for outdoor (portraits) or special effects where you have max out the aperture say Canon 85mm f/1,4L IS USM at f/1,4. In order not to engage the Shutter Speed or Tv above 1/200 (say for High Speed Sync), the 3-stop would come in handy in such application.

For general purpose (landscapes, etc), 6 stop would probably be sufficient if you need to shoot silky flowing water or traffic streams from vehicles.
I am using 6-2/3 stop (ProND 100) for easy calculation.
What I do is I would set the composition and exposure (say f/10, 1/10, ISO100), set focus and then screw on the 77mm filter on the lens (say Canon 16-35mm f/4L IS USM), adjust the Shutter Speed or Tv to 1/10 * 100 = 10 sec, double check the focus and shoot.

A 10 stop (ProND 1000) would be for challenging compositions that has a moving subject (people, water, clouds) that look good when blurred together with a non-moving subject (shore, buildings, etc). The procedure is similar with the exception that now the adjustment is say 1/10 * 1000 = 100s. May need to engage B mode with a timer.


You may want to refer to other advice from other experts (I am not). Below is one expert from Russia.

https://www.ephotozine.com/article/russian-photographer-tests-hoya-s-pro-nd-series--27938
 

keenklee

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Hmm should I get those circular one with bigger size and get a step down Ring when I get a lense with smaller size ?

1. What No. of stops do you recommend?
2. GND sounds like a good idea or isit better that I get a variable ND filter??

Oops... should be reverse GND.
How many stops depends on what you want to accomplish.
I suggest you start with the slot-in type and get a 10-stop and move from there.
 

xiaosinsinful

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The answer is "It depends"
There are the circular screw on types and the rectangular slot-in types.
Both has pros and cons. The cons of the circular screw on types would be the dimension of the filters has various number and you may need step-up or step-down adapters to fit the filter size of the lens.

For focal length wider than 35mm, stacking of filters may cause dark banding (vignette) on the edges.

For example, I would recommend 3, 6, 10 stops say 77mm. For a start, you may want to try the 6 stops first.

For example, 3 stop (ProND 8) is used mainly for outdoor (portraits) or special effects where you have max out the aperture say Canon 85mm f/1,4L IS USM at f/1,4. In order not to engage the Shutter Speed or Tv above 1/200 (say for High Speed Sync), the 3-stop would come in handy in such application.

For general purpose (landscapes, etc), 6 stop would probably be sufficient if you need to shoot silky flowing water or traffic streams from vehicles.
I am using 6-2/3 stop (ProND 100) for easy calculation.
What I do is I would set the composition and exposure (say f/10, 1/10, ISO100), set focus and then screw on the 77mm filter on the lens (say Canon 16-35mm f/4L IS USM), adjust the Shutter Speed or Tv to 1/10 * 100 = 10 sec, double check the focus and shoot.

A 10 stop (ProND 1000) would be for challenging compositions that has a moving subject (people, water, clouds) that look good when blurred together with a non-moving subject (shore, buildings, etc). The procedure is similar with the exception that now the adjustment is say 1/10 * 1000 = 100s. May need to engage B mode with a timer.


You may want to refer to other advice from other experts (I am not). Below is one expert from Russia.

https://www.ephotozine.com/article/russian-photographer-tests-hoya-s-pro-nd-series--27938

Wow thanks for your lengthy reply and your useful examples make understanding far easier. on my part , I have did my homework and got a rough idea of what ND filter does. seems like going with a slot in type like keenklee mention seem like a better idea? correct me if I'm wrong assume I have a 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 and a 18-35mm f1.8 , items I would need to get started would be A. 2 filter holder to screw onto the lens B. getting some filters(Im thinking of getting a GND for sunset and 3 stop for outdoor portraits and a 10 stop for under bright sunlight).

any brand that you recommend?? reputable online store /physical store to get from?

Oops... should be reverse GND.
How many stops depends on what you want to accomplish.
I suggest you start with the slot-in type and get a 10-stop and move from there.
 

Ah_keong

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Wow thanks for your lengthy reply and your useful examples make understanding far easier. on my part , I have did my homework and got a rough idea of what ND filter does. seems like going with a slot in type like keenklee mention seem like a better idea? correct me if I'm wrong assume I have a 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 and a 18-35mm f1.8 , items I would need to get started would be A. 2 filter holder to screw onto the lens B. getting some filters(Im thinking of getting a GND for sunset and 3 stop for outdoor portraits and a 10 stop for under bright sunlight).

any brand that you recommend?? reputable online store /physical store to get from?

Sorry, I have no experience in slot in filters.
I was at a junction like you then and I went with screw on type.

Used to consider NiSi filter at TK foto. After weighing pros and cons, I got the Hoya ProND screw on filters. :D

Hope it helps in your decision!

http://www.bwvision.com/screw-vs-slot-nd-filters-kevin-choi/

https://www.patrickmarsonong.com/single-post/2017/04/20/I-Shoot-With-NiSi-Filters
 

xiaosinsinful

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Sorry, I have no experience in slot in filters.
I was at a junction like you then and I went with screw on type.

Used to consider NiSi filter at TK foto. After weighing pros and cons, I got the Hoya ProND screw on filters. :D

Hope it helps in your decision!

http://www.bwvision.com/screw-vs-slot-nd-filters-kevin-choi/

https://www.patrickmarsonong.com/single-post/2017/04/20/I-Shoot-With-NiSi-Filters

The dilemma I'm having now is should I get the ND filters use it together with my kit lense or should I get a new lense for my camera, will be going on a trip soon hoping to get some good results 😊 limited Budget can't get both. Initially looked at sigma 35mm f1.4 art prime lense but after some research decide to get the 18-35mm f1.8
 

keenklee

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The dilemma I'm having now is should I get the ND filters use it together with my kit lense or should I get a new lense for my camera, will be going on a trip soon hoping to get some good results �� limited Budget can't get both. Initially looked at sigma 35mm f1.4 art prime lense but after some research decide to get the 18-35mm f1.8

DX need to x1.5.
35mm is like a 50mm standard lens
18-35mm is 27-52.5mm.

I find 18mm is minimum for landscape.
IMHO, first filter should be a polariser.
That is in additional to a UV for protection.
It will probably reduce 1-2 stops depending on brand.
That can act like a ND filter.

If you research collectively, slot type filter is the way to go.

P.S. Choice of camera also important. In my case, I gain 2 stops i.e. 2-stop ND filter.
 
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Ah_keong

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The dilemma I'm having now is should I get the ND filters use it together with my kit lense or should I get a new lense for my camera, will be going on a trip soon hoping to get some good results ****************** limited Budget can't get both. Initially looked at sigma 35mm f1.4 art prime lense but after some research decide to get the 18-35mm f1.8

if you shooting ultra-wide landscapes for DX or APS-C, you may want to consider 10-18mm range lens to pair with your 18-35mm f/1,8 Art... :D

For example, Canon has the EF-S 10-18mm which cost less than S$400 (think I got it for S$300++).
Value for Money....
 
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Delsamor

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I am using Sony A6300. What kind of ND filter should I get if I want to have DOP effect? I am using kit lens and even if I max out my aperture, I can't get that effect.
 

5star_pundit

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Recently got a new camera using lense kit 18-55. Thinking of capturing some sunset photos, Long exposure shots. Need advice on which affordable ND filters to get and where to get them from. Bearing in mind I might get some other lense in the future.

you should get Graduated ND Filters NOT ND filter
 

keenklee

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I am using Sony A6300. What kind of ND filter should I get if I want to have DOP effect? I am using kit lens and even if I max out my aperture, I can't get that effect.

You mean DOF?
ND filter don't help with DOF.
 

Ah_keong

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I am using Sony A6300. What kind of ND filter should I get if I want to have DOP effect? I am using kit lens and even if I max out my aperture, I can't get that effect.

Sorry, may I ask what you mean by DOP effect?
 

Dhitto

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Landscape has various aspects to it.

For shooting high contrast horizons and maximizing your colour depth captured, usually its to use GND filters of various stops as well edge progressions ( hard edge or soft progressive ND)

Nowadays with some photoshops, its possible to do a composite using multi shots done at different exposure levels and then combined. Also known as "bracketing". Its a bit harder if you're doing panorama but for single shot landscapes, a fair number of people actually do that to minimise the hassle of setting up filter and such.

That said, in rapidly changing lighting, GND is still the only way to do it as the sun will be moving too quickly to do bracketing.

As pointed out above, a circular polarizing filter is also important if you want capture the ideal contrast for limited lighting conditions. Make sure you get the good quality ones though, cheap CPL filters actually can show up in photos.
 

Ah_keong

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I would recommend to get CP (circular polarizer) and ND (Neutral Density) filters.

For a start, get a say around 6 stop ND (I got the 6.67 stop before getting the 10 stop)

Some brands come with a 2 in 1 CP+ND filter... I am also considering such 2 in 1 filters for a 3 stop ND. :D
 
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