Sorry I’m new to HA. My understanding is that Philips Hue will require their hub, likewise Aqara will require its own hub. So if I using both Philips and Aqara HomeKit devices I’ll need both hub, correct?
Just need to pull neutral from your light point to your switches.
Add electrical points to your window area.
Get UK zwave compatible hubs, so it's easier to find zwave accessories.
Switch options, you get what you pay for. There are limitations to RF switches, some latency for wifi switches, minimal lag for zigbee and zwave. And I would say zwave is most instantaneous.
Curtain motor wise, check that the hub supports it. They may indicate that the brand is supported but to be extra sure check the models. So far on Homey, only the DT82 series dooya and aqara curtain motor is supported.
Since your EC already comes with AC installed already, if it's not a smart AC like daikin, it most probably would be the mitsubishi starmex. You will need IR blasters for them and if you want automation, some smart temperature and humidity sensors. Or just get an ambi climate for each room. Next to ask if you want to automate your home intercom? If it comes with a mobile app, which I doubt EC will have, you will need a switchbot for that.
As above, lester's blog. Using the same method with the contactor inside my isolator switch.
1. Switches: The common ones mentioned in the thread: RF ones like Broadlink TC2 or Livolo. Zigbee: Xiaomi Aqara. The Wifi ones: Tuya based. If you are renovating, consider installing neutral wire.
2. Hub: Xiaomi besides those you mentioned. DIY: Home Assistant or openHAB. Pick the hub that is the closest match to your budget and works with all your purchased HA devices or intended purchases. The protocol support is probably you should do some reading/research into as you didn't mention anything on it.
Engage a LEW (licensed electrician) since you are not sure for the switch installation and safety comes first. Alternatively a few of the Home Automation installers companies sometimes posts here. There is also a Facebook group for home automation geeks Singapore.
Thanks! Yes, finally doing renovation now and has prepared neutral for all the switches so that we can use any brands. What are you using now? You seems to know Homey well. I plan to go down to Automate Asia with hubby to check it out.
Thanks! Yes, finally doing renovation now and has prepared neutral for all the switches so that we can use any brands. What are you using now? You seems to know Homey well. I plan to go down to Automate Asia with hubby to check it out.
For smart switches, which brand do you all recommend more? I just went to broadlink experience store and realise they do not use neutral wires.. what is the pros and cons of that? They also told me that track light led might not work with their switches..
Im okie to do neutral cos it's a new bto.. so I want to know which is better in terms of reliability so that less maintenance is required..
Hi
May I know if there is a way to automate the intercom?
Currently I need to be physically at home to answer the Intercom before the main gate can be open for visitors
Wondering if I can do that outside home
just want to rant on the xiaomi system.
Using it in Oz on CN server. Super unreliable and laggy.
The stupid smart switch even with my router 3meters away or extender 1meter away will sometimes drop out with bad connectivity. Really regret going into the xiaomi system
Did you check if your 2.4ghz wifi channel is too close to the Zigbee channel?
using the wifi version of the switch.....
My samusng is showing full bar with the 2.4ghz, 5ghz at 4bar in the same spot with the switch. My guess is xiaomi used an super duper crappy wifi card inside the switch to cut cost. I would have paid an extra 5bucks for a better wifi.
My idea was to double check that i turn off the heater while away during winter. With the lag and instability, i think its better to not use it at all. You cant really know if the switch is on/off at all due to the lag and perhaps lost connection.
Wifi switches is hit and miss depending on where your AP is located.
If your switch is recess into a pattree box in the wall that has a metal cage, even worse.
With zigbee or zwave switch also same, there is a limit to the distance it can received but at least there is built in mesh that extends the range. For WIFI, it needs to be able to reach your wireless AP unfortunately and my guess is the 2.4 cant get reliable signal. My xiaomi note 4 phone's wifi also sux when side by side with my iphone so...