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Old 15-07-2020, 10:51 PM   #4
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Join Date: Dec 2008
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Hi. Sorry for my delay in response.

Considering that we are in the Home Theatre section, I presume we will mostly be partnering our speakers with a dedicated subwoofer to handle to low ends.
To answer your question, yes, most speakers have a tweeter for the highs and a woofer for the mids. When I posted the image with subwoofer, it means you have an external dedicated subwoofer to accompany your speaker setup. The .1 in your 2.1 setup.

As for crossover points, it changes from one speaker to another.
As a general guideline, the crossover frequency should be set 10-15 Hz higher than the rated low frequency extension for each individual speaker, typically listed in the specifications. This allows output from the speaker to roll-off in a smooth and predictable manner for the best blending with the subwoofer and a more convincing and impactful low end.
But as a general rule of thumb, follow the THX's standards of 80Hz. Subwoofers handle low ends way better than most speakers out there. So let it handle the low ends. Low frequencies are also not directional and will generally fill the whole room. So as mentioned, only have a crossover of 80Hz and above. Not anything lower than 80Hz.

In cases where you have to go above 80Hz for your crossover with your speakers and subs is for something like the KEF LS50 Passive speakers. Their frequency range is between 79Hz - 28kHz (at 3dB). Therefore, adding 10-15Hz gives you a crossover of 90Hz - 95Hz to get that smooth transition crossover from your subwoofer to your speakers.
The KEF LS50 Wireless has better frequency range and using the standard mode, the range will be from 50Hz – 28kHz (at 3dB). So you can easily stick to the 80Hz crossover easily.

As for power, if you have a dedicated amplifier to handle your speakers, then any cheap receiver (for as long as it has the amount of speaker ports that you need, like 5.1.2 or 9.2.4, Audio decoding support like Dolby Atmos and DTS:X, and most importantly, it has eARC support, you are fine to getting a cheap receiver as long as you have a dedicated amplifier to power your speakers.
But if you have an Active Speaker like the KEF LS50 Wireless that has its own internal amplifier to power the speakers, then you can just concentrate on a receiver as I've mentioned above.

It is usually not advisable to buy the most expensive receivers because of how fast you see receivers need to be replaced to get the latest features and Dolby/DTS codecs and HDMI ports and all. Thus why people generally love dedicated Amplifiers as they are not dependant on all these features that AVRs need to handle. So Amplifiers, like Passive speakers are typically audio products that you can keep forever if you want.

But like me, where space is a constraint for now current HTS setup, I went all out to get the NAD T778. Smaller than even the cheapest Denon/Marantz AVR; letalone their flagship X8500H. So it fits easily to my space constrained cabinet and has the advantage of upgradeable HDMI slots and another slot empty for any kind of future features that might come. Typically the upgrade modules will cost around SG$500 as seen by the current HDMI 2.0 upgrade modules for their super old T758 and T777 models to get updated HDMI 2.0b features. That is roughly how long they've been supporting their devices.

So since the NAT T778 has really powerful 9 channel dedicated amplifiers along with 2 extras to be connected to an external Amplifier for 2 more channel if need be, I am fine with this T778 and can use it for years to come without having to replace a Receiver entirely and do all the stuffs that come with replacing an entire Receiver which I'm sure some of you know. Once in a blue moon, maybe a $500 upgrade for the next HDMI upgrade isn't as bad too considering I get Dirac. Typical speakers need about 50W to 120W of peak power. And unless you play Movies and TVs at reference volumes, there is almost no need to be concerned with having a very powerful amp. Again, this is highly dependant on what speakers you go with.

So yup. You can choose to sell your AVR receivers on Carouhell and buy a new receiver at the same time, not sure if you'll have to top up more than $500 or more every time you do that, or just keep the same AVR and just swap the modules when you feel like upgrading certain components for quite a reasonable price of $550 or less depending on what module upgrade it is. And you'll still have your powerful Amplifiers in your system too.

To answer your question Benedium, us uncles, unless we live in a 1 bungalow building, the chances of us playing at the reference volume of 75 or 85dB is super low. I always end up around 10-20dB from reference and those were already plenty loud for my system. So in that case, a cheap receiver with at least 80W of power per speaker channel will do. I do have a Home Automation plug that I use to check the readings and control my HTS via Alexa. Most of the time, the maximum output from the TV to the HTS and the subwoofer is around 300w or so. So knowing that I have 7 speakers to power via the AVR along with a dedicated subwoofer with its own Amplifier, the AVR didn't really need to use so much power per channel. So you really don't have to worry. This is if you want the bare minimum.

For reference, KEF measures their LS50W speakers at the reference volume of 85dB with the microphone 1m away. And that is how they measured their speakers to be able to be heard at that reference volume from the rated 50Hz – 28kHz (at 3dB). You can see it at their Frequency Response column in the specifications.

Also, in case you want to find speakers in a certain price range without subs for a dedicated desk setup, can see the option under Performance : Price here.
Note that their speaker reviews are still limited to a few. Not all brands and models of speakers have been tested. So great sounding speakers like SVS has yet to be tested.

Last edited by LiLAsN; 15-07-2020 at 11:01 PM..
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