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BBCWatcher

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US etf over World etf: My rationale is that the US stocks have historically and consistently out-performed European stocks. I don't quite buy the argument that one would have to consider that European stocks may out-perform the Us stocks. I also note that majority of IWDA's assets are US stocks and this begs the question why not get a pure US etf e.g. VUSA?
Past performance is not indicative of future results, and a global stock index fund is at least substantially global, not limited to stocks listed in the United States and Europe.

Distributing over Accumulating: Personally, I'd like to see the cash dividends in my SCB account instead of having it automatically re-investing the dividends. I understand the importance of compounding it and growing the etf. However, I'd prefer the idea of re-investing the dividends myself - either by way of lump sum or DCA. The idea of not seeing cash dividends (assuming I'm vested in an accumulating etf) for the next 20-30 years is quite scary isn't it?
If you understand the importance of reinvesting dividends— and it is important, and cost free when the fund does it for you — why is it “scary” to do what’s important?

And if a world etf is recommended, would it be VWRA or IWDA (I'm a sucker for vanguard products)?
Either is fine.
 

celtosaxon

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If you understand the importance of reinvesting dividends— and it is important, and cost free when the fund does it for you — why is it “scary” to do what’s important?

Are accumulating funds transparent about how much dividends were paid and reinvested? If not, I can see why that might make people a little uneasy. For DRIPs at least you see the dividend payments being put to work. For me, any dividend payments I receive get combined into a subsequent DCA anyway, so not much is lost.
 

Divisionfire

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Hi BBCwatcher,

I've been following your thread for awhile and I would like to seek your advice!

Some background:

- 25 years old

-currently, no income as a student

-orphan/single

-housing/insurance settled

-expenditure of 5years set aside



I've recently come upon a windfall from inheritance and so I have basically 810k set aside for investments. This is a huge sum of money so I've been deliberating on what I should do with this all the while the money just sits in a cash account getting minimal interest rates. I've gone through some posts here and there and the Bogleheads 3-Fund portfolio really resonates with me and thus I am choosing to go with this option. Most posts weigh in on investing every month from your income however my situation is slightly more unique as I do not have any income in the next 2years given that I am still a student.

This is a preliminary plan following Bogleheads 3-Fund Portfolio so would really appreciate it if the more experienced could weigh in and give some options.

My plan:

-31% bond - either A35 or NTUCSP 3.100% 20Jul2050 Corp (250k)

-22% in ES3

-47% in VWRA or (9:1 combi of SWRD & EMI)



Given that I have substantial capital, I figured I don't have to go full offensive on equity (correct me if I'm wrong) and instead chose a more stable portfolio?

From what I've found out thus far, it seems it is better to buy my bond and ES3 with DBS Vickers(held in my CDP + 0.12% buy-in) and then my VWRA with SC premier( since I hit above 200k thus I am getting 0.2% charges). I plan to do the investment in one lump sum instead of DCA because of some articles I've read which discusses why lump sum is better. I am relatively young and do not foresee needing this sum of money in the near future so I dare say my investment window is around 20-30years?

Are there any big holes in my preliminary plan? Are the two brokers I've selected cost-efficient for my method of investing?
 

zoneguard

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My plan:

-31% bond - either A35 or NTUCSP 3.100% 20Jul2050 Corp (250k)
I know you asked BBCW but allow me to chip in: forget about the bonds. You are young and can afford to take more risk.

-22% in ES3
If I were you, I will lower the ES3 ratio to 10%. That's already overweight on SG equities above its market cap in the world index.

-47% in VWRA or (9:1 combi of SWRD & EMI)
VWRA is less work for you.

Given that I have substantial capital, I figured I don't have to go full offensive on equity (correct me if I'm wrong) and instead chose a more stable portfolio?
Portfolio size doesn't impact the equities ratio. Age does and the time you'll need to access the funds for retirement.

From what I've found out thus far, it seems it is better to buy my bond and ES3 with DBS Vickers(held in my CDP + 0.12% buy-in) and then my VWRA with SC premier( since I hit above 200k thus I am getting 0.2% charges). I plan to do the investment in one lump sum instead of DCA because of some articles I've read which discusses why lump sum is better. I am relatively young and do not foresee needing this sum of money in the near future so I dare say my investment window is around 20-30years?

There is a single brokerage: IBKR SG which you can hold ES3 and VWRA with the lowest commissions and forex spread.

BTW SCB 200k is for Priority banking and the commission rate is 0.12% with no min for SG and 0.2% for other markets. SCB's forex spread is 0.4% thereabout.

Lump sum is quite nerve wrecking if the market dips right after you invested. I suggest DCA over a timeframe - say from now until you graduate from school. Forgo some potential returns but stay invested and it will do wonders for your investor confidence.
 
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Divisionfire

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Thanks a lot for the advice! Would you suggest that I instead look into topping up my CPF rather than investing in bonds as an alternative?
 

Finbias

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I know you asked BBCW but allow me to chip in: forget about the bonds. You are young and can afford to take more risk.

I will chime in here too. For bond allocation, find a diversified bond ETF. You do not want to put it all into one single bond, especially a callable (it's 30NC20) hybrid tier 2 bond from a single issuer that is super long dated. You are throwing away all the diversification/safety benefits of bond allocation on a number of levels.

This bond was only issued last week, how did you pick this one? Was it recommended by a PB?

If I were you, I will lower the ES3 ratio to 10%. That's already overweight on SG equities above its market cap in the world index.

Lump sum is quite nerve wrecking if the market dips right after you invested. I suggest DCA over a timeframe - say from now until you graduate from school. Forgo some potential returns but stay invested and it will do wonders for your investor confidence.

Agree both these points, this is good advice.
 

RedsYWNA

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From what I've found out thus far, it seems it is better to buy my bond and ES3 with DBS Vickers(held in my CDP + 0.12% buy-in) and then my VWRA with SC premier( since I hit above 200k thus I am getting 0.2% charges). I plan to do the investment in one lump sum instead of DCA because of some articles I've read which discusses why lump sum is better. I am relatively young and do not foresee needing this sum of money in the near future so I dare say my investment window is around 20-30years?

Are there any big holes in my preliminary plan? Are the two brokers I've selected cost-efficient for my method of investing?

I thought it's quite obvious that you should go with IBKR SG, instead of Vickers and SC.

I think A35, ES3, and VWRA is a safe bet. You wont go too wrong, but you may be bored of the slow and steady returns, as a 25 year old student. haha
 

Divisionfire

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I will chime in here too. For bond allocation, find a diversified bond ETF. You do not want to put it all into one single bond, especially a callable (it's 30NC20) hybrid tier 2 bond from a single issuer that is super long dated. You are throwing away all the diversification/safety benefits of bond allocation on a number of levels.

This bond was only issued last week, how did you pick this one? Was it recommended by a PB?


It was suggested to me by my uncle who bought this bond. What you said makes sense, thanks for the advice
 

swan02

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I’m priority scb and I think it’s 0.18% for sgx with no min.

I
BTW SCB 200k is for Priority banking and the commission rate is 0.12% with no min for SG and 0.2% for other markets. SCB's forex spread is 0.4% thereabout.
.
 

zoneguard

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I’m priority scb and I think it’s 0.18% for sgx with no min.

You are right. My recommendation to OP was to go with IBKR SG.

BTW you mentioned in ST's thread about IVF's UCITS equivalent in LSE? What I read so far is value factor investing doesn't work or rather it is hard to prove if it is working(or not) now than it is known and priced in.

On the other hand, multi factor investing as implemented by Dimensional Funds Advisor is available here through Endowus and Moneyowl with a higher cost compared to DIY. DFA also is the midst of launching ETFs in the US and let's wait and see if they will offer that to other markets.
 

BBCWatcher

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Are accumulating funds transparent about how much dividends were paid and reinvested?
The commonly discussed ones are (VWRA, IWDA, etc.), yes.

Portfolio size doesn't impact the equities ratio.
Well, it could. Someone with a $200 billion portfolio might rationally decide to be aggressively positioned with 98% in stocks and 2% in bonds, for example. That 2% is "only" $4 billion. ;)

However, over broad ranges of wealth, the popular "rule of thumb" portfolio allocations work pretty well.

I think A35, ES3, and VWRA is a safe bet.
I think MBH is a better choice for the bond leg. G3B is a perfectly valid alternative to ES3 since they track the same index; either one is fine.
 

awckay

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“Not much.” The carrier guaranteed part is barely above premiums paid by age 70. The non-guaranteed part is a projection based on 4.75% gross returns (you don’t get gross) on the carrier’s bond heavy par fund. I don’t think it’s at all likely that a bond heavy portfolio will generate a 4.75% gross return any time soon. The 4.75% is only what the MAS (a weak regulator, it’s fair to say) allows as a maximum marketing projection.

Thank you as always for explaining with detailed examples and giving a balanced view on pros & cons!

I ran a 2nd round of calculations on my own on how I am likely to invest the future premiums saved following your examples, & indeed it wouldn't take too much for me to breakeven & profit when compared to the carrier's 4.75% projections (about 0.75% advantage would be sufficient), even after substracting the losses from early surrender + paying for additional term plan in the following years when required. :D

Second, a dependent doesn’t have to be a married spouse. A dependent can be anyone you care about who would be seriously financially impaired, from a baseline lifestyle point of view, if you were to die tomorrow. So if your partner is already a dependent, then it makes sense to insure now.

And yes this was part of the reason why I decided to drop this life plan (my parents are financially stable fortunately), hence the only time I would need a term protection would be when I'm eventually getting hitched for good =:p

Don’t forget about Disability Income Insurance. I know I keep harping on that point, but it needs harping.

First thing I did when I decided to get my financial **** together, so i guess your harping worked ;)
 

Han Shot First

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DFA also is the midst of launching ETFs in the US and let's wait and see if they will offer that to other markets.

I read that the DFA ETFs are active ETFs. So the ETFs may not be low-cost.

I wonder whether a financial advisor is required to buy the DFA ETFs, and if so, how would DFA impose this requirement? If not, why is DFA deviating from the way its sells its mutual funds.
 

xingua

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Basically you’d look for one or a couple new term policies to replace what you’ve got and add more sum assured, then cancel one or both of the policies you have. In that order, of course, so there’s no coverage gap. If it makes sense to do.

Why more than one new term policy (as a possibility)? Well, one reason is that it’d allow you to ratchet down coverage more easily, particularly as your mortgage is paid down on schedule. And there are a couple ways to do that. For example, you could get three S$400,000 policies (the maximum direct purchase allows) with staggered term ages of 55, 60, and 65. Other variations are possible, of course.

Of course the insurers don’t like what I’m describing since the total premiums are lower, so some of them offer premium discounts if you buy a $1 million (or more) single policy. So you could certainly consider that and see if it’s a good deal for you. Obviously you’re going to be more reluctant to cancel a larger, “lumpy” policy, which is why the insurers encourage it with some premium discount at that level.


I’m not a big fan of PA in general (especially not ahead of DII), but you could certainly take a look at whether the MINDEF/MHA group plan coverage could be raised for term life and whether their DII rider is available to you. The MINDEF/MHA insurance is generally good value for money, so if it’s open to you, great. That particular DII policy’s terms and conditions are not my favorite, but it’s worth considering.


Covering the mortgage balance makes sense to me as a starting estimate because it means your surviving husband inherits the home free and clear OR he can sell it and use the life insurance proceeds in some other way to support the household, as he prefers. Bear in mind the outstanding mortgage naturally decreases over time as it’s paid off at standard pace, and your children get that much closer to their own working careers and family lives, so your life insurance needs will ordinarily tend to diminish over time.


Ah, OK. Well, I don’t like the idea of a preexisting condition reset, so one option is PRUshield Plus with its associated rider.


Thanks BBCW. I've worked through the details based on what you recommended and here is my plan:
1. Increase my husband and myself's Mindef Term Life to $1m
2. Included myself for Mindef's DII
3. Get GE's DII to top-up the shortfall of 25% with #2 (will have to forsake the 3% escalating term as they do not offer this)
4. Get a new Term Life of $500k (include TPD). Any recommendation on this? And should i include TPD and CI? I know you are not a big fan of CI but if comes as a rider to the Term policy and the premium is affordable, should i go for it?
5. Downgrade PruShield Extra Premier rider to PruExtra Premier Lite CoPay

With regards to the 2 Whole Life policies, should i surrender both or keep one as a "safety net"? My concern is with the losses incurred should i surrender it now. What criteria should i consider to help me to decide on this?
 

BBCWatcher

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4. Get a new Term Life of $500k (include TPD). Any recommendation on this? And should i include TPD and CI? I know you are not a big fan of CI but if comes as a rider to the Term policy and the premium is affordable, should i go for it?
TPD coverage is bundled with the term life insurance automatically, so that's easy.

If there's a partial CI acceleration option for not too much additional cost, you might consider it. For example, if you can tap 10% or 15% ($50,000 or $75,000) of that $500,000 policy, pulling that payout forward when a CI is experienced, that might be interesting enough if the premium is reasonable.

With regards to the 2 Whole Life policies, should i surrender both or keep one as a "safety net"? My concern is with the losses incurred should i surrender it now. What criteria should i consider to help me to decide on this?
It's conceptually pretty simple, really. Forget the sunk costs -- they're gone. When you're looking at a particular policy, be sure to figure out the best available surrender value (which could be from a third party). Then you just look at whether you'd buy this particular policy (with $Y upcoming premiums) now, from this point forward, or whether it's better to take the $X and run.
 

manlymanly

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How should Mom optimize CPF

Hi BBCW,

Need your advice again. I cannot figure out CPF top-up rules. To me they are a black box, very confusing.

My mom is currently 69, and she has the following amounts in her CPF -

Ordinary 102,042.95
Special 10,670.19
Medisave 49,232.14
Retirement 180,816.74

She also has a few sums of fixed deposits expiring. As the interest rates are really low now and she is wary of investing in stock market, I would like to know whether she can do some voluntary contribution into her various CPF accounts to earn more than 1% fixed deposit interest.

She is not enrolled into the CPF Life scheme and this is where things get confusing for me when I read the rules. She should technically be able to draw money out from CPF. The thing is she doesn't want to... she wants the money to stay in CPF for as long as possible, and to add more to CPF if possible, to earn the interest.

Any advice you can give us would be greatly appreciated, as usual. Many thanks.
 

Kaypohji

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For mortgage liability, can choose to get mortgage insurance rather than dearth insurance right ?
 

zoneguard

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My mom is currently 69, and she has the following amounts in her CPF -

Ordinary 102,042.95
Special 10,670.19
Medisave 49,232.14
Retirement 180,816.74

She is not enrolled into the CPF Life scheme and this is where things get confusing for me when I read the rules. She should technically be able to draw money out from CPF. The thing is she doesn't want to... she wants the money to stay in CPF for as long as possible, and to add more to CPF if possible, to earn the interest.

I'm not BBCW but I like to test my CPF knowledge:
1. Please check that she has made a CPF nomination.
2. 2020's ERS is 271,500 so she can top-up RA to that amount.
3. 2020's BHS is 60,000 so she can top-up MA to BHS. EDIT: BHS seems to be frozen when she reached 65. So this may not be possible.
4. If she has used CPF funds to purchase property previously, she can top-up her OA to the principal + accrued interest amount.
5. If she is not on CPF Life, she will be on RSS. She can request for higher monthly payout if she wants or do nothing after the top-up.
6. She has presumably met her age's FRS. The balance above FRS in SA and OA can be withdrawn anytime.

Let's wait for others to chip in.
 
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BBCWatcher

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My mom is currently 69, and she has the following amounts in her CPF -
Ordinary 102,042.95
Special 10,670.19
Medisave 49,232.14
Retirement 180,816.74

She also has a few sums of fixed deposits expiring. As the interest rates are really low now and she is wary of investing in stock market, I would like to know whether she can do some voluntary contribution into her various CPF accounts to earn more than 1% fixed deposit interest.

She is not enrolled into the CPF Life scheme and this is where things get confusing for me when I read the rules. She should technically be able to draw money out from CPF. The thing is she doesn't want to... she wants the money to stay in CPF for as long as possible, and to add more to CPF if possible, to earn the interest.
OK. I’m going to assume then that she has not started any classic Retirement Sum Scheme payouts either. However, from her 70th birthday she’ll be required to start payouts, either via the classic RSS or a CPF LIFE plan, her choice. If she starts with classic RSS she can later switch to CPF LIFE using the residual if she wishes, but any switch needs to be made no later than a couple months before her 80th birthday.

I'm not BBCW but I like to test my CPF knowledge:
1. Please check that she has made a CPF nomination.
2. 2020's ERS is 271,500 so she can top-up RA to that amount.
That’s correct. The $271,500 limit (2020) is based on principal only, not accrued interest, so there’s probably at least $100,000 that could be added to her RA now, then more every time the ERS is raised. Also, since her RA is just below $181,000 there’s a very little bit of tax relief opportunity available. For example, a child in a high income tax bracket could deposit $183.26 into her RA and get tax relief on that amount.

A Retirement Account top up earns 4% interest for all whole months it’s in the RA, then it streams out as retirement income. RA is not particularly liquid for lump sum withdrawals, especially after CPF LIFE payouts start.

3. 2020's BHS is 60,000 so she can top-up MA to BHS. EDIT: BHS seems to be frozen when she reached 65. So this may not be possible.
Assuming she turned 65 in 2016, her Basic Healthcare Sum was fixed at $49,800. So she may have a few hundred dollars she can put into her MediSave Account. She is eligible for tax relief when she does that, although that’s assuming she has enough taxable income (from work, rental income, etc.) for tax relief to matter. This top up must also fit within the CPF Annual Limit. It earns 4%, and when her MA is at her BHS the interest will likely spill over into her OA. MA can be used for qualified medical spending in Singapore, including base Integrated Shield plan premiums, up to withdrawal limits.

4. If she has used CPF funds to purchase property previously, she can top-up her OA to the principal + accrued interest amount.
Yes, but she shouldn’t do this until after reaching the “all three account” Voluntary Contribution limit. An all 3 VC must fit within the CPF Annual Limit. If she keeps her MA pegged at her BHS — not hard to do since she’s so close to it — then a small piece of her VC lands in her SA and the rest in her OA. That’s better than a pure OA repayment since SA earns 4.0% interest.

5. If she is not on CPF Life, she will be on RSS. She can request for higher monthly payout if she wants or do nothing after the top-up.
Another option that effectively pushes withdrawals as far forward in time as possible is the...CPF LIFE Escalating Plan.

6. She has presumably met her age's FRS. The balance above FRS in SA and OA can be withdrawn anytime.
It’s hard to tell. Her RA balance is below the current FRS, and the FRS has been increasing at a slower rate than RA (plus interest) from her 65th birthday. However, she may have already withdrawn a bit, with or without a property pledge/charge. But she’s really, really close to the current FRS and can add funds to her RA if she wishes.

For mortgage liability, can choose to get mortgage insurance rather than dearth insurance right ?
Yes, but do you want to? I’m not a big fan of mortgage reducing insurance in part because a survivor should have the flexibility to decide how a death benefit will be deployed. Paying off a 1.8% mortgage (and locking up a ton of equity) might be a perfectly terrible idea in the circumstances. In certain circumstances you’re required to have Home Protection Scheme coverage, whereupon you’d count HPS coverage in calculating whether and how much life insurance you need. Otherwise, I’d avoid mortgage reducing insurance. Certain banks and mortgage brokers have been known to apply high pressure sales tactics, insisting you must buy this type of insurance. No, not true. Ordinary term life insurance works fine for these and other purposes.
 

Extech

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Hi BBCW,

Would like your input on retirement planning

Parents downgraded from Condo to HDB, so we have about 350k in cash, 600k OA. Dad has reached FRS, and mum hit BRS. Dad may work for 1-2 more years.

I have read through and understood that while CPF is not a bequest vehicle, we can tap on its strengths as an annuity which guarantees monthly payouts for life. I am advising them to transfer dad’s OA to fund their RA to ERS.

I am worried that my dad may have loss of independence.

As such, do you think that a retirement plan from private insurers(Manuife RetireReady Plus II, NTUC Income Gro Retire Ease, Aviva MyRetirement Choice) that provides additional payouts upon loss of independence, on top of CPF Life would be useful as opposed to VC?
 
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