EDMW Knife Collectors

Akai Ryu

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May i know where to get mineral oil locally? Besides mineral oil, any other alternative?
 

squarebox

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Sup guys, ive this stiletto, not sure what material but ive a feeling its some steel or smth. Its been getting rust and some corrosion i think? Or more of oxidation since its dark brown in colour. Anything i can use to remove these stains and maintain the stiletto?

Most of the time, Autosol and some elbow grease would repair it but it all depends on how bad the rust is.
 

gary92

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Most of the time, Autosol and some elbow grease would repair it but it all depends on how bad the rust is.

Ah okay. The metal is somewhat greyish in colour, so im not sure if autosol would be a thing to use since its like a metal polish?
 

cannotliao

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can use autosol to remove rust from SS but if you keep polishing, it will give the surface a shine mirror finish.
 

vespaguy

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Sup guys, ive this stiletto, not sure what material but ive a feeling its some steel or smth. Its been getting rust and some corrosion i think? Or more of oxidation since its dark brown in colour. Anything i can use to remove these stains and maintain the stiletto?

Try rust removers, vinegar, coke or scrubbing with WD40. Depends on how bad the rust is. Autosol works but polishes the metal. You can go to hardware shops. Basically you want a mild acid to dissolve the rust but not till it etches the metal.

May i know where to get mineral oil locally? Besides mineral oil, any other alternative?

IKEA. only $5 for big bottle.
 

TheBUSTED

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Hi guys,

Am looking to sell my SOG Kiku Large Fixed with Black Blade for S$230. In mint condition comes with sheath and warranty.

Also selling my United Cutlery Navy Seal Knife for S$50. Comes with sheath.

Prices are competitive to Amazon's.

Do PM me or send an email to my njxchris@ hotmail.com if interested.

Thanks!

Hi Guys! Offer is still open so do PM me if interested. Prices negotiable. Thanks
 

viking

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Ah okay. The metal is somewhat greyish in colour, so im not sure if autosol would be a thing to use since its like a metal polish?

In trying to remove the rust, you are bound to affect the "greyish" metal of the blade.
This is what happened to one of my knives, after I tried various methods to remove the rust, including using Autosol, WD40 and fine grit sand paper, etc.
After removing the rust, the blade's sheen/colour was not uniform. I then soaked the blade in coke for about 12 hours; rinsed with water and dried.
This resulted in a greyish-black patina, which looked good. The patina also protects against rust.
 

vespaguy

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Ah okay. The metal is somewhat greyish in colour, so im not sure if autosol would be a thing to use since its like a metal polish?

you have more than 100posts so perhaps you can post a pic, you can host it on one of the free photosharing sites - it'll be easier to identify/know how bad the rust looks. When you say 'greyish' - do you mean it is beadblasted (matt) or satin/polished? also, is it carbon steel, stainless steel, an antique, what is the value etc. For antiques, you really don't want to remove anything but arrest the rust. Restoration may hurt its value. There are lots of youtube videos showing the use of vinegar, baking soda etc on rust removal.
 

Akai Ryu

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can use autosol to remove rust from SS but if you keep polishing, it will give the surface a shine mirror finish.

Try rust removers, vinegar, coke or scrubbing with WD40. Depends on how bad the rust is. Autosol works but polishes the metal. You can go to hardware shops. Basically you want a mild acid to dissolve the rust but not till it etches the metal.



IKEA. only $5 for big bottle.

Thanks! Not sure if it makes sense but im trying to find food grade mineral oil

Edited: seems like the ikea mineral oil is a safe bet for knife which might be needed for food preparation !

http://www.ikea.com/sg/en/catalog/products/00170993/?preferedui=desktop
 
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worcer

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Thanks! Not sure if it makes sense but im trying to find food grade mineral oil

Edited: seems like the ikea mineral oil is a safe bet for knife which might be needed for food preparation !

SKYDD Wood treatment oil, indoor use - IKEA

Pros are saying food grade mineral oil has too much tiny dust that causes folders joints to jam up.

They actually used it for kitchen knives?
 

Akai Ryu

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Pros are saying food grade mineral oil has too much tiny dust that causes folders joints to jam up.

They actually used it for kitchen knives?

Im using for fixed blade. Folder i use singer oil and if some visible rust on blade i use aluminium foil with singer to polish
 

gary92

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you have more than 100posts so perhaps you can post a pic, you can host it on one of the free photosharing sites - it'll be easier to identify/know how bad the rust looks. When you say 'greyish' - do you mean it is beadblasted (matt) or satin/polished? also, is it carbon steel, stainless steel, an antique, what is the value etc. For antiques, you really don't want to remove anything but arrest the rust. Restoration may hurt its value. There are lots of youtube videos showing the use of vinegar, baking soda etc on rust removal.

here are some pics! thanks for the help guys!
 

gary92

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j6l8w4.jpg






e983kj.jpg





are these images good enough? i dont know what to make of these marks along the blade
 

squarebox

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The steel underneath is rusting and eating through the paint.

Even if you polish/remove the rust away, the rusted spot will be bare steel which is silver.

So technically if you wish to restore the knife, you will have to strip off the paint, remove the rust then repaint the knife.

That's a Commando Dagger! A pic from the interwebs:
Stiletto1.jpg
 
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gary92

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Yup it is! @squarebox even so.. how do you suggest i remove the rust? does some rust bits on my velvet lining on the box make the blade rust even more? Sorry but im really quite noob at this
 

vespaguy

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Yup it is! @squarebox even so.. how do you suggest i remove the rust? does some rust bits on my velvet lining on the box make the blade rust even more? Sorry but im really quite noob at this

gary, an issued FS dagger certainly merits some care and attention. I've no experience with the stiletto you have or how its constructed or the materials used. I looked it up a little and it appears to be made by a company based in Sheffield using carbon steel. Not sure if yours has been blued, coated, painted etc.

If you don't mind experimenting why not try cleaning the rust spots with some WD40 and a toothbrush first. The bristles are generally soft although it may leave some marks the coating is very soft. The coating may be discoloured but I don't think you can run away from that. If you can remove the rust (or at least scrub away the rust), then you can apply a little autosol using a cotton bud - see how much you can remove....ultimately, unless you strip the entire coating, refinish then respray, you can only clean off and arrest the rust a little. After cleaning, you should ensure that you rustproof the stiletto to prevent further corrosion.

If you want a shortcut, you can ask Sheares how to refurb the stiletto? I believe that CDO units make their unit purchases via Sheares?

Good luck and let us know how it goes....
 

anvil_den

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The stiletto... I call it the pride that comes with rust. Just about unavoidable.. Short of a full strip, rust proofing and then repainting.. there's really not much else that can restore it well or close to its original pristine state. I have an older one, it rust even easier but since its "unpainted" it's easier to oil and keep rust at bay. Still the exposed edges is a pain and need a little honing time to time to lick off tiny rust spots, oiled or not.
 

vespaguy

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The stiletto... I call it the pride that comes with rust. Just about unavoidable.. Short of a full strip, rust proofing and then repainting.. there's really not much else that can restore it well or close to its original pristine state. I have an older one, it rust even easier but since its "unpainted" it's easier to oil and keep rust at bay. Still the exposed edges is a pain and need a little honing time to time to lick off tiny rust spots, oiled or not.

I'd say go radical on it. Buy a paint stripper and strip off all the paint from the knife. after that, attack the rust - first with rust removers then with 0000 wool, then hone it a little. Thereafter spray paint it flat black (you can buy the aerosol. if you want it to really stick, use the flat black paint for motorbike exhausts - those are twice the price of the pylox but last a long long time) and it's nice and matt. Store it back in your display box with your badges, call signs etc but check it from time to time.

Show us once you're done =:p
 

gary92

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thanks guys! looks like theres lot of work to be done! i'll try it out with the wd40 first! about rustproofing, use mineral oil would be preferred or maybe just wd40?

hahaha painting it flat black sounds really awesome!
 
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