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vespaguy

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Happy Diwali/Deepavali to all Hindu knifeknuts and all who celebrate ;)

I will celebrate too by savouring some Indian dishes later.

This Diwali week, I am offering the following Marfione Custom Anax with a whole bunch of freebies for [revised - see below post] =:p Thank you for looking.

IMG_2422_zpstzabzbdg.jpg


You can see the value of what I'm including (some of the decals are priceless/can't be bought), and the CRKT I'm including is here:

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/CR...n-plain-blade-stainless-steel-and-g10-handles
 
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deadjr

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Hi guys,

I'm pretty new to this knife scene but anyway recently I was trying to pick up sharpening and just got myself a lansky 5 stone deluxe to do the job (probably not the best system out there, I thought it was value for money and gentle learning curve).

So I was putting the system to test and I realized that after finishing up the last stone (1000 grit), I find that the edge is not consistent. For instance, the shine of the edge looks messy and uneven. I also realized that "flatter" edge is pretty sharp and is able to cut paper with ease, but when it comes to the curve edge (nearer to the tip), paper start to tear.

Any tips there to improve on this?

I am still hand holding the clamp itself, considering buying a bench vice to hold the clamp.
 

vespaguy

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Hi guys,

...but when it comes to the curve edge (nearer to the tip), paper start to tear.

Any tips there to improve on this?

hello :) the curve edge - that's generally called the 'belly'. I don't know anything about the lansky, but likely you're not hitting the actual edge (the apex), so you're just sharpening the rest of the edge bevel but not the actual apex.

Did you test for the burr/wire edge throughout the edge?

You can use a marker pen and mark the edge to ensure that you're actually sharpening the apex of the edge throughout the whole length of the blade.

Since I have failing eyesight, I would recommend using a magnifying glass if you have trouble looking at the edge too. But try feeling for the burr with your fingernail.
 

Shikiwaru

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Hi guys,

I'm pretty new to this knife scene but anyway recently I was trying to pick up sharpening and just got myself a lansky 5 stone deluxe to do the job (probably not the best system out there, I thought it was value for money and gentle learning curve).

So I was putting the system to test and I realized that after finishing up the last stone (1000 grit), I find that the edge is not consistent. For instance, the shine of the edge looks messy and uneven. I also realized that "flatter" edge is pretty sharp and is able to cut paper with ease, but when it comes to the curve edge (nearer to the tip), paper start to tear.

Any tips there to improve on this?

I am still hand holding the clamp itself, considering buying a bench vice to hold the clamp.

For the Lansky, this is hands-down the best video guide I've seen.

If you have any problems, Aaron will respond to your comments and PMs. I don't know how he does that now that he is a full time knifemaker.
 

Shikiwaru

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No problem. Another company that also did that was Benchmade. This was quite a controversy in the US. Spyderco does not enforce such things, which is why you see prices low as hell on Amazon.

What happened was brick and mortar stores lose out in business when the MAP policy was absent. This was why KSF (who also operates with a physical store) stopped carrying Spydercos and is trying to clear them all now.

Spyderco has now stated that they will enforce MAP by 1 Jan 2016.

So, this Black Friday, buy whatever Spyderco that you have been looking for! Don't hold back on this, because you might not be able to get them at this price anymore.

EDIT: I'll be getting one of their ZDP-189 knives; a Caly 3.5 hopefully. Otherwise I'm looking at the Stretch or DFly2.

EDIT 2: Gayle Bradley 1 is discontinued, some places still have it at USD140, which is a good price. Not my cup of tea, but it is a great knife.
 
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vespaguy

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last call

Ok, I'd like to make one last special offer to local guys before I retire it to the safe or to another country =:p

1. Bundled Offer only (I won't separate at this price):

ZT0801 + Spyderco Domino with additional aftermarket 'original spaceman' deep carry titanium clip. NIB/LNIB. Box papers everything.All for only USD375 via paypal, all in.


For transparency:

ZT0801 - USD192 + shipping (usually around USD20+)
Spyderco Domino - USD210 + shipping (usually around USD20+). Aftermarket titanium clip is another USD20.
Total value (assuming you buy from same place and pay USD25 shipping): USD447.

2. Marfione Custom Anax plus whole suite of freebies is still available at USD783.75 via paypal, all in. NIB/LNIB. Box papers everything.

For transparency:
The CRKT Ikoma Fossil I'm including is USD50 + shipping (usually around USD20+). The other freebies are priceless (and definitely more than USD20+). Marfione Custom Anax is USD750 + shipping (usually USD20+ or more).

3. Hinderer Custom Spearpoint with custom silver lanyard bead is still available at USD1,280 via paypal, all in. The value of the silver bead plus extra Orange G10 Scale is more than USD100. Dead Mint.

Transparency: This is a very rare grind, I have not seen this long-deep swedged being sold in the aftermarket, don't confuse with the normal swedged spearpoint.

Payment must be via paypal in USD. Not cash, not SGD. Self collect or delivery in Bukit Panjang area.

Hope you can help with my quest to streamline and downsize - my loss is your gain.

Thanks!
 
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vespaguy

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I stand corrected that folders can't do the bottle cut! :s13: Here's what I think: you need to have a longish/largish blade. Edge cannot be polished, otherwise it won't bite into the plastic (same concept as I mentioned above ie. polished edge won't cut nylon/maritime ropes well). Technique wins.

Great videos:eek:=:p
 

Shikiwaru

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I think I might have over polished the edge on the sharpmaker fine rods. It's super sharp when slicing paper/ shaving but doesn't even puncture the plastic on a few occasions. Slides off while bottle go flying. :(
Must agree that part of it is technique. He uses a back hand technique that kinda facilitates a slash rather than a chop.

Maybe you can try putting a toothier microbevel? Otherwise, it might boil down to technique and edge alignment with respect to the object you're cutting.

Sometimes you see in the Cold Steel demo videos, the people do not cut the objects cleanly and leave some bit of it hanging.
 

Rock-kun

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Hi guys,

I'm pretty new to this knife scene but anyway recently I was trying to pick up sharpening and just got myself a lansky 5 stone deluxe to do the job (probably not the best system out there, I thought it was value for money and gentle learning curve).

So I was putting the system to test and I realized that after finishing up the last stone (1000 grit), I find that the edge is not consistent. For instance, the shine of the edge looks messy and uneven. I also realized that "flatter" edge is pretty sharp and is able to cut paper with ease, but when it comes to the curve edge (nearer to the tip), paper start to tear.

Any tips there to improve on this?

I am still hand holding the clamp itself, considering buying a bench vice to hold the clamp.

Same issue here. The belly just does not seem to want to cooperate with the stone.

Once i got mad and just started filing the stone up and down on the belly out of frustration. Bad mistake; the belly is now thinner than the rest of the cutting edge.

But for some unexplainable reason, the Lansky works extremely well on an old SAK. Sharpened both belly and the rest of the blade uniformly. *shrugs*
 

Stevejobless

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I have a lansky too. For this type of system must take note that the further you go away from the clamping part the lower the sharpening angle. If the knife is long it makes sense to sharpen in stages. Try reclamp nearer to the tip and try the belly again.
 

phil_mfkr

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Hello there, have been lurking and reading all your insightful posts. Wonderful stuff, and thank you for sharing so generously.

I've a question. I'm looking for some mineral oil to coat and protect my carbon blades with. Do you know of locally available options? If there is none, then I'd go online to get them.

Thank you!
 

Shikiwaru

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Hello there, have been lurking and reading all your insightful posts. Wonderful stuff, and thank you for sharing so generously.

I've a question. I'm looking for some mineral oil to coat and protect my carbon blades with. Do you know of locally available options? If there is none, then I'd go online to get them.

Thank you!


Singer oil(mineral oil) for hard use knife and folders. If kitchen knife, use food grade oil.

Reason being mineral oil has less particle which may hindle pivot.



 

vespaguy

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Hello there, have been lurking and reading all your insightful posts. Wonderful stuff, and thank you for sharing so generously.

I've a question. I'm looking for some mineral oil to coat and protect my carbon blades with. Do you know of locally available options? If there is none, then I'd go online to get them.

Thank you!

singer oil works. ikea mineral oil works but it's rather thick and doesn't apply easily (pls don't use for pivots, it'll be gummy and attract lots of dirt). I use eezox myself as I like the smell - but as it's rather expensive, I save it for the custom folders. For parang, I use ikea mineral oil...mixed with a little secret spice for a nice aromatic smell :D

don't use cooking oil - it'll turn rancid. for kitchen knives, a little olive oil works too, but cooking oil is thick and doesn't apply easily.

have fun oiling your blades.
 

TheBUSTED

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Custom Knives

Sorry to break the wonderful thread on sharpening, maybe we can have a side topic on custom knives?

I would eventually like a custom knife especially from Tuffknives cos i really love the designs that Geoff makes esp the kwaiken. So i decided to ask for a price for the custom build i had in mind to start saving for it.

However, I've been trying to contact him via different medias (email, skype, insta) for the past week but no reply. Its getting a little frustrating. Not sure if im being impatient here or not but i do see him post insta photos daily so.....

So, for everyone's benefit maybe share what are your experiences in getting custom knives and why do you choose the maker?

Thanks and may the posts flow
 

vespaguy

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Sorry to break the wonderful thread on sharpening, maybe we can have a side topic on custom knives?

I would eventually like a custom knife especially from Tuffknives cos i really love the designs that Geoff makes esp the kwaiken. So i decided to ask for a price for the custom build i had in mind to start saving for it.

However, I've been trying to contact him via different medias (email, skype, insta) for the past week but no reply. Its getting a little frustrating. Not sure if im being impatient here or not but i do see him post insta photos daily so.....

So, for everyone's benefit maybe share what are your experiences in getting custom knives and why do you choose the maker?

Thanks and may the posts flow

Tuffknives - :s8: I stay away from rockstar BS. But in any case, sometimes makers take a long while to respond. I haven't heard from a maker in months since I PMed him and have waited on orders for up to 10 years (and counting).

You should buy what you like AND from a maker that treats you right. In the long run, that will bring more joy. Don't go joining the fad-makers, although I see the IG/FB/Social-media savvy makers getting lots of fanboys who will pay top dollar but not hunt for value customs.
 
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TheBUSTED

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Tuffknives - :s8: I stay away from rockstar BS. But in any case, sometimes makers take a long while to respond. I haven't heard from a maker in months since I PMed him and have waited on orders for up to 10 years (and counting).

You should buy what you like AND from a maker that treats you right. In the long run, that will bring more joy. Don't go joining the fad-makers, although I see the IG/FB/Social-media savvy makers getting lots of fanboys who will pay top dollar but not hunt for value customs.

Hhahaha unfortunately his designs are the only ones so far that catches my eye.

What is your definition of a value custom?
 

vespaguy

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Hhahaha unfortunately his designs are the only ones so far that catches my eye.

What is your definition of a value custom?

there are a few things I look at in order to justify the 'value':

- maker's skill, consistency and continuity in the market. New makers cannot command high prices unless they can consistently make good knives, service the knives, service their customers, fix issues etc. one good knife does not mean he will consistently churn out good knives. and if he does not provide good aftersales service, then it's less valuable. the price you pay for your knife should include lifetime service/support (at a cost, of course, I'm not saying it's for free).
- fit and finish. beadblasting and stonewashing is the easiest way to hide poor grinds and finishes. the worst is coating knives - you really don't see how well it was finished before the coating was applied. This includes everything you see and don't see - hardware, the insides, the edge (some makers can't sharpen for nuts), the tolerances.
- materials. two pieces of titanium, bearings, then stonewashing everything and shooting a video for IG alone is not enough to command high prices. I like to see something a little more if I'm going to pay those $2k prices.
- maker who will customize or make to your specs.
- whether handmade or CNC. CNC does help a lot, but simply CNCing the whole knife does not earn high marks for value for me.

there are other considerations as well, but I'm too lazy to think right now.

For eg. if you're going to pay USD2K for a Tuffknives, you could get an Andre Thorburn with better fit and finish, details and timascus thrown in not to mention a Damascus blade, or, if you like more handmade knives by a classic established hall of fame-type maker, a Mayo folder (secondary pricing - direct is cheaper, or, if you want lots of details - an Elishewitz.
 
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mamba2012

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Hhahaha unfortunately his designs are the only ones so far that catches my eye.

What is your definition of a value custom?

As vespaguy aptly pointed out, there are many issues beyond just the look of the knife to consider. There are makers who will snub you just because you aren't in the US and don't make up their main customer Base... Avoid those.

As some collectors here know, I'm a huge fan of David Clark. Knives are priced very affordably, no 2k prices for 2 slabs of ti (500 for a fully hand-built custom, no cnc, no waterjet). His f&f beats midtechs hands down for the price and his customer service is the best I have ever encountered. His wait list is 3 year, but he sticks to the prices he quotes. His pieces haven't really blown up on the secondary market, but we can see that more and more dress knives since mine are coming out.

Moving onto the topic of TuffThumbz, i agree that his work looks nice (I presume u got the idea of the Kwaiken from Jim Skelton's YT video). Is it worth 2k? In my opinion, hell no... The switches that were causing such a stir when they first came out are all being thrown out to dealers (BladeJunkee, Recon1, to name a few). For 2k USD, you can commission an entirely dress build (think Timascus, Moku-ti, Damascus, Damasteel, etc...).

The reason why light and darkness (the pair made by David Clark) are so precious to me is simply because we designed it, we chose the materials together, etc. That's a TRUE CUSTOM, and in my opinion, what the custom collecting experience should be about. It shouldn't be a collector sending emails, waiting for months without any reply. We're paying good money for the knives and we should get our money's worth.

Should you want to take a closer look, I've added some pictures and a video of the 2 knives. Enjoy! :)

IMG_20151020_105139_zpsjwvatuf7.jpg


IMG_20151020_112626_zpsjpskyvxk.jpg


IMG_20151020_111713_zpsk2f8ewch.jpg


 
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TheBUSTED

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As vespaguy aptly pointed out, there are many issues beyond just the look of the knife to consider. There are makers who will snub you just because you aren't in the US and don't make up their main customer Base... Avoid those.

As some collectors here know, I'm a huge fan of David Clark. Knives are priced very affordably, no 2k prices for 2 slabs of ti (500 for a fully hand-built custom, no cnc, no waterjet). His f&f beats midtechs hands down for the price and his customer service is the best I have ever encountered. His wait list is 3 year, but he sticks to the prices he quotes. His pieces haven't really blown up on the secondary market, but we can see that more and more dress knives since mine are coming out.

Moving onto the topic of TuffThumbz, i agree that his work looks nice (I presume u got the idea of the Kwaiken from Jim Skelton's YT video). Is it worth 2k? In my opinion, hell no... The switches that were causing such a stir when they first came out are all being thrown out to dealers (BladeJunkee, Recon1, to name a few). For 2k USD, you can commission an entirely dress build (think Timascus, Moku-ti, Damascus, Damasteel, etc...).

The reason why light and darkness (the pair made by David Clark) are so precious to me is simply because we designed it, we chose the materials together, etc. That's a TRUE CUSTOM, and in my opinion, what the custom collecting experience should be about. It shouldn't be a collector sending emails, waiting for months without any reply. We're paying good money for the knives and we should get our money's worth.

Should you want to take a closer look, I've added some pictures and a video of the 2 knives. Enjoy! :)

IMG_20151020_105139_zpsjwvatuf7.jpg


IMG_20151020_112626_zpsjpskyvxk.jpg


IMG_20151020_111713_zpsk2f8ewch.jpg



Thanks Vespaguy and Mamba,

I've definitely seen Andre's work and i truly like the flipping action on his customs just not the looks lol. Not sure if he is willing to depart from his usual models but no harm asking.

As for the the price of Tuffknives, i honestly am not sure if they really go for 2k? I've seen a switch in the secondary mkt for 1.8k so i presume the brand new price is lower, considering US's knife inflation is insane. Thats the reason why i just emailed him to get a "quotation"

Anyway that being said, I will definitely learn from your experiences and advice and definitely not get sucked into a fad (i hope) hahha. Thanks alot really appreciate it.
 
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