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Old 11-05-2010, 12:29 AM   #1
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The Denim Thread [Read the first few post before asking questions]

Fitting and description of the different brands of Denim.

Imperial Denim

Price: Above S$350

Imperial Denim is the essential revert to the traditional denim aesthetic.
Imperial Brand Clothing is superior denim and is designed and manufactured with emphasis on strength and style. Imperial Brand Clothing garments are constructed in Australia by Australians. Majority of denim used originates from Japan using the finest shuttle loomed (selvage) fabrics sourced.

Sold raw, Imperial Denim will age and fade uniquely depending on each individual.

Denim is a market that has been totally revolutionized since its origins as a work wear garment. For better or worse, the old techniques and values have been lost, with all but a few artisans still interested in the old ways. Imperial Brand Clothing is committed to returning to a traditional then Imperial

Their jeans are made of raw Sanforized denim, when washed, the denim will shrink approximately 2cm in length (inseam) and between 0.5" and 1" in waist. Please keep this in mind when choosing your size. The denim will also stretch in the waist up to 1.5" after approximately 20 wears.


Denim:

Black/Indigo Shearer Jeans

- Raw Japanese Selvage
-14.25 ounce denim
- Tapered Slim

Black/Indigo Duke Jeans
Imperial brings you their skinny/straight cut with a low yoke in their signature Japanese selvage denim.

- Raw Japanese Selvage
- 14.25 ounce denim
- Slim Cut
- Low Yoke



Pure Blue Japan (PBJ)

Price: Above S$300

Takeshi Iwaya, denim manufacturer from Okayama decided to produce his jeans as well and established Pure Blue Japan Company in 1997. Being a small company, it is difficult to find certain jean model manufactured by them.
Many operations are done by hand according to traditional technologies on ancient machinery.

Special coloring is a trademark of Pure Blue Japan – such depth of color, beautifully correlating with denim texture can be rarely seen. One could say Pure Blue Japan brand doesn’t keep up with the fashions, their main aim and passion is rather color devotion, for they are determined to achieve an ideal indigo color.

Their denim is very slubby and their jeans come in a range of fits.

Jeans by Pure Blue Japan can be pleno jure called exquisite and people owning them have an original sense of taste as well as aspirations to keep up with the fashions.

It is not a head turner, one could hardly attract additional attention wearing them. They are rather for denim-lovers and even collectors.

Denim:


(XX-005)
Shrunk to fit
14oz Orginal Deep Indigo Selvedge Denim Super Slim Straight
XX-005 in raw indigo, being Pure Blue Japan's most popular model is slim whereas xx-005BK is slim black.

(XX-007)
Shrunk to fit
14oz Orginal Deep Indigo Selvedge Denim Super Slim Straight
XX-007 has indigo dyed weft and warp. It is one of the newest customized jeans models characterized by a very unusual and beautiful concept transforming it to real fashion jeans. Denim is colored with a very dark shade of indigo, almost black. A super slim cut, rough 14-ounce denim and herringbone pocket lining add additional spice. These jeans are worn exactly like regular ones because the core of the thread stays uncolored.



The Flat Head

Price: Above S$350

The Flat Head was established in 1996 by Masayoshi Kobayashi who took vintage denim from the 1920’s through to the 1960’s and deconstructed it to analyze the precise dyeing and stitching techniques. He then set out to produce classic styled clothing made in the same manner as the original garments. As part of this process, he uses only specially selected high quality material and employs highly skilled Japanese craftsmen.

The Flat Head’s selvedge denim is woven on old-style shuttle looms that can make only 50 meters of denim per day, however approximately 3 meters of fabric is required to make each pair of jeans. The shuttle loom process is time consuming, but the denim produced has a different “touch” and “feel” to that of denim produced on modern looms, thus giving the Flat Head denim products the aura of vintage denim.

As far as the dyeing process is concerned, only the surface of the thread is dyed with indigo, the centre of the thread staying white. The result of this “loop dyeing” is that as the jeans wear with age the denim fades in a beautiful and authentic fashion.

Denim:
There are essentially 3 types of denim that we use for our jeans:

The "3 Series" Denim, a 14.5oz selvedge denim. Any jean style starting with a 3 or Z3 or F3 is made from this denim.
e.g. 3005 of F380

The "5 Series" Denim, a 14oz selvedge denim. Any jean style starting with a 5 or S5 is made from this denim.
e.g. S5003

The "1 Series Denim", a 16oz selvedge denim. Any jean style starting with a 1 is made from this denim.
e.g. 1005

Styles The Frontier Series are style numbers are preceeded by an F:

F310 is a tight straight cut and is our slimmest cut
F350 is a '55 cut, so straight but reasonably loose
F370 is a boot cut
F380 is based on a '66 cut, so somewhere between the F310 and the F350.

The Exceed Series are all made out of the 16oz denim:

1001 is a tight straight cut and is our slimmest cut
1005 is a '55 cut, so straight but reasonably loose
1007 is a boot cut

The Pioneer Series are all made out of our 14.5oz denim

3001 is a tight straight cut (as per F310 and 1001)
3003 is a WWII model (painted arcuates and fewer rivets than normal)
3005 is a '55 cut (as per F350 and 1005)
3006 is a bell bottom
3007 is a boot cut
3008 and 3009 are based on a '66 cut (as per F380)

The Future Series are all made out of our 14oz denim:

S5001 is a tight straight cut (as per F310 etc)
S5005 is a '55 cut
S5003 is a cinch back and the loosest of all our jeans
S5007 is a boot cut
5100 is our 10 year Anniversary model is a little looser than the S5005

Collaboration
SE05BSP is slim tapered, 14.5oz unsanforized japanese selvedge denim

SEXFH05 is slim cut, 16oz heavy unsanforized japanese selvedge denim, available in black.

Women
FH Balder Women's slim med/low rise women's jeans. 14.5oz unsanforized japanese selvedge denim.




Nudie

Price: Above S$250

Nudie is the ”naked truth about denim”. Denim has the ability to age beautifully formed by its user into a second skin, naked and personal. The longer it lives the more character it gets. The indigo is a living colour that fades and gives the denim its character. The more you wear your jeans the more beautiful they get. Jeans are more than just a piece of clothing.


Denim:

Fast Freddy - Baggy cut

Average Joe - Straight


Regular Alf - Boot Cut

Big Bengts - Straight, tapered for a slimmer look.

Grim Tim - Slim Straight, Tapered from knee down, Normal waist, Button fly


Slim Jim - Slim Straight, Normal wasit, Zip Fly


Thin Finn - Tight, Low Yoke, Normal waist, worn low, Narrow leg opening, Zip fly


Tight Long John - Super tight, Low waist, Narrow leg opening, Zip fly


Tube Kelly - Tight, Low waist, Tight leg, Narrow foot, Zip fly

Hai Kai - Super skinny, high rise

Size Chart:


If you're getting raws for this jeans, i suggest you downsize 1-2 sizes



Atelier de Production et de Création (A.P.C)


Price: S$295

Denim:

New Standard - Slim Straight

They are a straighter legged cut, wider leg openings, and a very standard profile - this is not to say that they are not tapered and slim. They are, but less so than other APCs. This has a lot to do with how much you size down on them. Most people size down between 2-4 on them. I’d advise 3-4 on them personally. Downsizing 4 would be tight at the waist but will eventually stretch out.

The more you size down; the slimmer it will be from knee down. While they can be worn baggy or tight, that is to the wearer's discretion. New Standards are Japanese selvage denim. YES, these 'vanity sized' do stretched that is why you sized down considerably from what your real waist is.

New Cures - Skinny with tapered leg opening.

New cures are very similar to NS, save for the fact that they do not have a visible selvage line and have a tapered leg opening. The silhouette is much slimmer and generally tighter. Most people size down 1-3 on them. But, like all other APC denim, they stretch considerably after a couple weeks of wear. NC's are made from the same selvage denim that NS's are made from, but the selvage line is removed due to the taper the jeans has. I’d personally advice going down at least 2 or them for a skinny but not ‘skin tight’ kind of fit. Go down 3 for a greater effect.

Petite Standard - Skinny

These are basically a 'petite' version of the NS, with a significantly lower rise; specifically about 1.5". The silhouette is also slimmer than NS in all areas. Difference between them and NCs is the lack of taper but a slim silhouette throughout the thighs to leg opening. Simply to put, PS is slim/skinny- straight while NC is slim/skinny- taper. Selvage is visible on these. Personally i'd advice sizing down 2-3 on these.

Rescues
- Straight

A fuller, straighter APC cut. Compared to NS, the thigh is considerably wider, and from the knee down, the cut is very straight. It is said to be for people with wider thighs or even calves because it is cut to fit a fuller individual. It seems that many people size down 1-2 sizes from the tagged to achieve a comfortable look. They have a much wider leg opening, little to no taper across the board. Rescues are selvatge with the visible selvage line like NS's.

Credits to: http://www.apcsg.blogspot.com/ for the part on APCs





Dior

Price: S$500 for raws
Above S$800 for washed.

Dior Homme is the menswear division of Christian Dior SA, the French clothing retailer. Dior Homme has been under Hedi Slimane's creative direction since the fall/winter 2001-02 season; under his direction, Dior Homme has introduced a characteristic slim silhouette which has since taken off within the fashion industry. The early collections delved into the exploration of the male sex. The look darkened during the Luster period which was inspired by the electroscene of Berlin. Since 2004 A/W, Dior Homme has delved into exploring the different styles of Rock. A popular rumor is that Karl Lagerfeld lost about 90 pounds so he would fit into one of Slimanes esteemed suits. During the 80s and 90s Dior's menswear line was called Dior Monsieur. Brad Pitt, Mick Jagger, David Beckham, and Kanye West have all been spotted wearing the clothes – it is very popular amongst rockstars. Due to quarrelling over Slimane doing a women's line at Dior, his contract was not renewed after 2007. Dior has since hired Kris Van Assche, who has resumed since spring/summer 2008 show.

Denim:


Dior Homme denim is available in a “Made in Japan” (MIJ) version and a “Made in Italy” (MII) version. MIJ denim is of higher quality, tapers more, stretches less and costs more than the MII counterpart. The MIJ version, however, also has slightly larger back pockets than the MII version.

How to size your pair of raw Dior denim. (Taken from sufu, edited by me):

[Determining waist size]
Step 1 : Find a pair of medium - low rise jeans you currently own (made of 100% cotton non-stretch denim) that fits you well in the waist. Not too snug nor too loose.

Step 2: Button this pair of jeans up and align the waist so both the front and back sides of the waistband are directly on top of each other.

Step 3: Use a tape measure to measure the waist of the jeans all buttoned up and laid flat, then double this measurement.

Step 4: Subtract 3 or 4 from this measurement as Diors are 2 inches larger than their tagged size. Subtracting 2 to start out with will account for that, while the extra 1-2 inches account for stretching of the raw denim. If you want a pretty basic fit in the waist / are getting a pair of Diors that you know have a tendency not to stretch much, subtract 3. If you want a super slim fit / tighter upper block / are buying some Diors that you know will stretch a bunch, subtract 4.
Note: Certain jeans will run smaller / tighter in the waist and top block than others, so in some cases just subtracting 2 will be fine. I personally find sometimes certain jeans like the 17.5cm cuts as well as the MIJ washed jeans look better with a bit of a slouchier top block, so for those I may just subtract 2.

Step 5:
Select a type of fit you would like. 17.5cm (Skinny fit), 19cm (Slim fit), 21cm (Slim straight fit, much like the A.P.C NS)

Step 6: Buy.



FAQ:

What varieties of Dior Homme denim are offered?
Besides the cut, Dior Homme denim is available in a “Made in Japan” (MIJ) version and a “Made in Italy” (MII) version. MIJ denim is of higher quality, tapers more, stretches less and costs more than the MII counterpart. The MIJ version, however, also has slightly larger back pockets than the MII version.

What’s special about Dior Homme denim?/What cuts are available from Dior Homme?
The main attraction of Dior Homme denim is the cut. The three main cuts available from Dior Homme are: the 21cm cut, the 17.5cm cut, and the popular 19cm cut. Each refers to the hem measurements. Hedi based these cuts off of two A.P.C. cuts. The 21cm is similar to the New Standard, and the 19cm is similar to the New Cure.

How much do I size up/down for Dior Homme Denim?
For the 19cm cut, it’s generally best to size down about two to achieve a typical “Dior Homme slim fit.” The legs should be snug and quite slim while the waist and top block remains comfortable yet boxy. The black raws are generally slightly slimmer than the indigo's, but this does not mean you should change your size completely. They will also take slightly longer to stretch out, but will in the end stretch about the same amount as the indigo version. The blacks take a while longer to fade, as well, so do not purchase them if you are looking for a jean with that quality.

For the 17.5cm cut you may size down one to achieve a slightly skinny fit, or stay true to size to achieve a fit slightly skinnier than a pair of 19cm sized down two.

For the 21cm cut, it’s generally best to size down the same amount as one would with the 19cm raws.

Is the raw 19cm or 21cm selvage? Etc.
UNLESS it is specifically labeled as selvage, no denim cut or model from Dior Homme is selvage.

Who designed the 19cm and 21cm cuts? Who is the current designer for Dior Homme?

As most of you know, Hedi Slimane was the founder and designer of Dior Homme from 2001 to 2007. To be precise, his final collection was F/W07. He was the one who created both the 19cm and 21cm cuts. The new designer for Dior Homme is Kris Van Assche. Even though the designer has changed, the cut of the jeans has not. Please do not go asking around for F/W07 raws. You will simply be wasting your time.

The cut size (i.e., “19cm” or “21cm”) refers to the hem measurements of a tagged 32” pair of denim. For each size larger or smaller, add or subtract .5”, respectively. Ex: a size 30 in the 19cm cut would actually have a 18cm hem.

How much does Dior Homme denim shrink?

The washed models should not shrink at all as they aren’t raw. The raw denim used to fabricate the MII and MIJ jeans are sanforized, and they should shrink no more than .5” in the waist and .75” in the inseam.

What sizes of Dior Homme denim are available?
26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36,38


I wear a size 29 for Dior's MII washed denim, what size should I get for their MII raws?
Rule of thumb, size down by 1, get a size 28.


Reference Codes
When dealing and trading Dior Homme, the reference code is often used to place the item within the season it was produced. Here we decipher a typical/standard code: 5EH1015678 E47 B6A8 (SS'05 blue glitter jeans).
'5' refers to the year, that is, 2005.
'EH' refers to the season, that is, Eté (Summer). HH refers to 'Hiver' (Winter).
'101' refers to the item group, in this case, trousers (Pantalon). Other examples: 102 refers to blazers (Veste), 105 to shirts (Chemise) and so forth.
The next 4 numbers '5678' should refer to the specific item, with jeans it will reveal the type of cut as the entire 16 digit reference code will only differ by the first 2 digits in this set of 4 numbers for the differing cut. As noted earlier, the # for this item is 5EH1015678 E47 B6A8, referring to the 21cm cut. The # for the 19cm variant is 5EH1011678 E47 B6A8.
'E47',is the fabric code.
The last 4, 'B6A8', is the colour code. In this particular case, 'B' refers to Bleu (blue), as in indigo blue, the main colour of the jean. 'A' refers to Argent (silver), the colour of the glitter. Another example would be B6N0 - the colour code for the SS'03 released classic blue distressed clawmark jeans painted over in matte black paint. The B6 again refers to the base colour bleu whilst the N0 refers to the black paint ('N' for Noir - black).

Size Chart:


**Rise of jeans depends on whether is it MII or MIJ.
MIJ lower rise.
MII higher rise.
Sizing might differ jeans to jeans too.



Skulls

Price: Above S$350

Cuts:

S5010XX series Super Slim, slightly tapered
-S5010XX 6X6 (available in raw black/indigo and in one wash)
-S5010XX (AKA 7x6) (available in raw indigo and in one wash)

S5010XX
"5010XX" was made by the zipper fly specification before but now is button fly
The cloth is used is light ounce(14oz) of 7x6 for yarn.

S5010XX 6x6
Button fly, black leather patch.
The cloth used is heavy denim(14.5oz) of 6x6 for yarn.
The touch of fabric is harsh and crisp.
The color will change differently compare to the regular 5010XX.
I would express it "deep color"
This have NON WASH(RAW) and ONE WASH.

Both have different measurements due to the denim used is different.


S5507XX Straight fit
-S5507XX 6X6 (Raw)


All skulls jeans are lightly sanforized. Black raw skulls are slightly smaller and stretch lesser. Usually skulls shrink 3-5%. and stretch up to 1.25" however
they stretches out quite little unless you sized down too much.

All skull jeans inseam is 37.5" long.

Sizing:
The jeans are not "true to size" they have a larger-than-tag waist due to the fact that the 5010xxs are made to sit lower than a 'traditional' waist.
eg.
TAGGED: 32
ACTUAL RAW: 34
ONE WASH: 33.5

Hence sizing down 2 for a slimmer / tighter fit and 1 for a slightly more roomier but still slim fit. Stay true to size for a relaxed fit.(some people stay true to size)

Size chart for the most popular model 5010 6x6:



Fading properties between one wash and raw:
Not much difference as there are endless argument saying both fades better then another. However, initial colour of the one wash is lighter compare to the raw.



Neighbourhood

Price: Above S$

3 types of cuts.

Basic straight - Very relaxed fit
Medium straight - Straight fit
Narrow straight - Slightly slim fit

This is not the brand to seek for if you're looking for a skinny or a rather slim type of jeans.

5 types of washes.

Savage level 0 - Raw/Dry/Rigid Denim
Savage level 1 - 1 wash denim. No distresses.
Savage level 2 - Washed denim, some distresses and fades.
Savage level 3 - Washed denim, more distresses and some patch works.
Savage level 4 - Washed denim, a lot of distresses, a lot of patch works.

So basically, the higher the savage level, the more the distress level on the pair of denim.

Sizes

This is my personal guide based on my experience.

For the Basic cut
S - W34 - W35
M - W35 - W36

For the Medium cut
S - W32 - W33
M - W33 - W34
L - W34 - W35
XL - W35 - W36

For the Narrow cut
S - W31 - W32
M - W32 - W33

There was a Narrow2 cutting before which is slightly slimmer than the narrow cut, unfortunately it is no longer in production.



Levis Fenom/Fragment Design

Price: Above S$500

Made famous by Edison Chen who dons many of the label top of the line jeans. The crush customize. Founded by Hiroshi Fujiwara~

4 types of cuts.

-320 - This is a new cut that appeared in fenom latest model: Regular Line, Slimmer fit than the 360
-360 - Slightly Slim fit (Most recommended for chinos)
-505-207 - Straight fit, this is the cutting worn by Edison chen & Hiroshi Fujiwara, pls note that it is not the same as Levis 505 cutting.
-207 - Baggy fit

3 types of washes.

-Raw/Dry/Rigid
-Washed - Distresses and some patch works.
-Crush Customized - Washed denim with a lot of distresses and a lot of patch works.

Usually the big release of fenom would have 2-3 washes. For example the Gold package had the wash version & the crush customized version. Fenom 5 stars had the raw version and the washed version

Sizes

This is my personal guide based on my experience.

Fenom denims sizes are getting very erratic. The earlier fenoms are smaller than what is suppose to be however the later fenoms are bigger with exceptions from a couple of models

Generally, fenom have sizes ranging from w30 - w36 & s,m,l (for the latest range). The w30 variations only appeared in certain models namely the fenom 5 star range.

Comments
The most popular fenom designs would be the one with either the lightning stiching at the left back pocket of the jeans or the lightning logo chop at the bottom of the right hand pocket.



Other denim brands (Need contributions for info on these brands):
April 77
Above S$200

Cheap Monday
S$119

Julian Reds
Above S$300

Dr Denim
Above S$100

Ksubi
Above S$300

Levis
Above S$100

Edwin
Above S$250
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Common Denim Questions:

What are Raw/Dry Jeans?
Dry or raw denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Over time, denim will generally fade according to how hard the user wears them. All raw jeans will expand when worn repeatedly and shrunk when washed.

Point of Raw Denim (aka dry, unwashed)?
Simple. Buy an unwashed pair of denim and as you wear them more and more you watch the denim progress.

Usually with denim like 7 for All Mankind, True Religon and Rock and Republic, the denim goes through series of washing process to give it a worn look.

Raw denim is unwashed before being sold.
With wear, the denim loosens and fades which will form to your body.
With every wear, creases will form and eventually indigo rubs off.
The color will fade creating patterns. This is typical in higher stress areas such as whiskers (upper thigh creases), honeycombs (behind the knee creases), and down the thigh to the knee.
You are creating what is seen on a typical wash on many designer jeans (since many washes try to mimic a natural fade).



One Wash? Rinsed? Washed?
Raw denim comes untreated and unwashed while a one wash denim could used to be raw but have been washed once and shrunk.

One-wash denim is typically referring to raw denim that has been washed one time before being sold in order to eliminate the shrinkage and the need for a soak once purchased. Also, it will still fade exactly like any other raws.

Rinsed denim is something quite different in which the indigo is locked in and they will not produce fades.

One-wash jeans are basically produced to simplify the process of buying and wearing raw denim and to ensure a proper fit and consistent sizing since when buying raw unsanforized pairs the post-soak measurements will vary based on the method of soaking.

Washed denim have been rinsed, with either additional washing, fake distressing, or forced fades.

What's Selvage?
Selvage (or Selvedge, Self-edge) is a type of denim made on a vintage narrow loom which creates the unique edges that is typically used on the out seams of jeans. Selvage denim is put together on an old style shuttle loom. The result is a clean edge on where the denim fabric is stitched together that can't by frayed like non-selvage, and give the jeans a more natural look.

Shuttle looms which make selvage denim are smaller and produce fabric which is narrower (about 23”) than wide looms. selvage looms also use one long weft thread and loop it back while weaving, while the wider ones use multiple weft threads which aren't connected, thus the need for the stitching on the end to keep it from unraveling.

Selvage is just an indicator of the weaving technique used and less so the size of the loom. Selvage does not affect the quality of the denim. So why do some jeans have selvage and some don’t? Well it is easier and cheaper for companies to make non-selvage than selvage.

The selvage stitching is located inside the jeans, and can be seen when the cuff is turned up (the outseam). The selvage can be any color thread – from red, blue, green, etc.

Example:


What's the difference in denim from Japan?
Japanese denim usually comes in heavier and better quality than western denim makes. Japanese denim is very popular and generally favored upon.

What are Sanforized jeans?
Sanforized jeans have been processed by a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width, before cutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after washing.

What do i do if my jeans are Un-Sanforized?
Soak them in water before wearing them. Unsanforized denim (untreated with the sanforizing process that minimizes shrinkage) will reduce in size by up to 10%, even when washed cold (the best way to keep shrinkage to a minimum). This is only an approximation however; shrinkage varies from brand to brand and even from style to style. If your waist measures between 27”-36”, buy your Un-sanforized raw denim an inch or 2 larger in anticipation of shrinking.

What's Starching?
When you want to make your jeans stiffer or add sharper creases to your denim, you apply the starch while wearing them and spray the water until your jeans are damp. Sometimes starching is frowned upon because of bad odor that will remain in your jeans.

Indigo is bleeding all over from my jeans! Help!
Wearing raws can bleed some indigo with first couple of wears. Different jeans have different tendencies with the bleeding. Be careful wearing whites and light colors as they will stain.

To keep them coming off your shoes, tape around the inside of the leg opening on the jeans to help eliminate the dye.

You can try soaking the waist and leg opening with water to avoid the bleeding.

If you already have indigo on your shoes or clothing, a simple wash should take it right out.

Should I Hem my raws?
Raw denim usually comes with very long inseams.
IE: Diors 38".. Imperials 36".. Skulls 37.5"

If you have lots of stacking or unwanted length, it is suggested that you soak them to shrink and dry BEFORE hemming.
Depending on the denim, you can lose 2 inches off the original inseam. While you wear the jeans for extended periods of time without washing, the creasing will eat up the inseam as well. So even if you soak or wash them before hemming, you should still allow an extra inch at least.
Hemming by a tailor should be your last option. Stacking (taking all the extra length and pushing it down to your ankles to make them break and settle) or cuffing the hems are a nice alternative to hemming. It is not recommended to put jeans into dryer unless you want them to shrink radically and create wrinkles. Be advised the fit can possibly mess up in the dryer as well.

What are the different methods of soaking?
There are generally 2 methods.
  • Cold water soak
  • Hot water soak
Cold water soak
The jeans will shrink just a little and the colour of the jeans will remain quite the same.

Hot water soak

The jeans will shrink quite a bit, and the overall colour of the jeans will be faded (Due to the bleeding of the jeans). EG: From a dark indigo colour to a litter indigo colour.

Do note that the above results for soaking only applies to raw denim.

What are the different methods of washing my raw jeans?
There are many methods to do so!
  • Dry Cleaning
  • Machine washing
  • Hand washing
  • Sea washing
Dry Cleaning
Dry cleaning is a process that cleans your jeans using chemicals instead of water. As a result, your jeans will remain the same colour as just before you went it to be dry cleaned! Some people find this desirable as they prefer the raw colour of the jeans to the light indigo colour.

Machine washing
Personally I wouldn't advice this method as it is really difficult to control the outcome. This would be a general guide as to how you would machine wash your jeans:
  1. Set the temperature of your washing machine to 60 degrees Celsius.
  2. Put in the detergent, and make sure that there is no bleach in it. You could also choose not to use any detergent at all!
  3. Be sure not to wash the pair of jeans with other clothes as it will stain your other clothes.
  4. Take it out of the container and dry it inside out by airing it.

Hand washing
  1. Simply fill a container with water. The temperature of the water will determine how your jeans will fade. ie: Hot water will result in a lighter overall colour than cold water.
  2. Next, put your jeans in side and srub those stubborn stains/dirt/grime away. Take it out of the container and dry it inside out by airing it.
Sea washing
This method is generally for those denim heads who want to try something out of the ordinary.
  1. Head down to a beach with your jeans on and go for a swim. 1-5 minutes will do.
  2. Come out and sit on the beach.
  3. Now, take some sand and rub it on your jeans, imagine the sand being your scrubbing tool to help you get rid of the dirt/grim on your jeans.
  4. Head back down to the sea and wash off the sand stuck on your jeans.
  5. Now, get to a near fresh water supply and wash off remaining sand in your jeans (front/back pockets).
  6. Take it out, turn the jeans inside out and air it!

What are do you mean by the rise of the jeans, inseam and stuff like that?
For reference:



Is there a one stop website where i can learn the A-Z of denim?

Lucky for you, there is!
Here it is:
http://www.oki-ni.com/page/technical...-AW&attr=88347

My jeans are too long and too baggy! Where can I get them Altered in Singapore?
Some suggestions would be:
Tet Tailor at Pennisula Plaza
Clancy


and more to come..
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Old 11-05-2010, 12:32 AM   #6
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Online shopping for Denim:

Cultizm
Stocks: April77, Edvin, Evisu, Levis Vintage, Nudie.. and more!

Self Edge
Stocks: Flat Head, Dry Bones, Iron Heart, Skull, Nudie, Imperial, Sugar Cane.. and more!

Blue In Green
Stocks: For Samurai, Fullcount, Pure Blue Japan (PBJ) , Studio D'Artisan (SDA), Evisu, Skulls, Sugarcane.. and more!

Tobi

Stocks: 7 For All Mankind, A.P.C., Acne Jeans, Cheap Monday, Diesel, G-Star, Ksubi, Levi's Capital E, Naked & Famous Denim, Nudie Jeans, True Religion and more!



and more.. (Please help me out by telling me what to add.)
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Old 11-05-2010, 12:32 AM   #7
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Singapore Denim Retail Outlets:

Actually
28A Seah Street, Singapore 188385
Stocks: Kicking Mule Workshop, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Vandalist

Atelier de Production et de Création (A.P.C) Singapore
Raffles Hotel Arcade #02-08
328 North Bridge Road, Singapore 188719
Tel: +65 6224 5502
http://www.frontrowsingapore.com/
apc@frontrowsingapore.com
Stocks: APC

Know It Nothing

51 Haji Lane, Singapore 189244
Tel: +65 6392 5475
http://www.knowitnothing.com/
Stocks: Julian Red, Engineered Garments

The Denim Store
Mandarin Gallery #03-09/10/11
333A Orchard Road S238897
Tel: +65 67333608
http://www.facebook.com/thedenimstore
Stocks: Nudie, April 77, Cheap Monday, Hells Bells, Ksubi, Flathead, Imperial, Denim & Thread, Sugarcane, Pure Blue Japan and Skull Jeans.

Queen's Couture

#04-01, The Heeren
Tel: +65 67373125
http://www.queenscouture.com/
Stocks: Nudie, Sugar Cane, Cheap Monday, Skull Jeans by an Alchemist, April77, Ksubi

Style:Nordic

39 Ann Siang Rd Singapore 069716
Tel: +65 64239114
http://www.stylenordic.com/
info@stylenordic.com
Stocks: Nudie, Denim Birds, Fillipa K

Very Wooonderland

ION Orchard, B3-12
http://www.very.com.sg/
Stocks: Dr Denim, N&F, Edwin, WESC, RVCA

Feel free to ask me to add more!
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Old 11-05-2010, 12:37 AM   #8
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Awesome fade pictures by our fellow Hardware Zoners:
Because of Hardware Zone's restriction to 8 images per post, I'll update the pictures from time to time.


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Old 11-05-2010, 01:26 AM   #9
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bro can reserve post for common sizing questions also
I'll try my best to do so in the "Fitting and description of the different brands of Denim." section
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Old 11-05-2010, 01:32 AM   #10
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Online shopping for Denim!

Cultizm

and more.. (Please help me out by telling me what to add.)
Very good effort, bro! Support!

http://www.selfedge.com/shop/
For Flat Head, Dry Bones, Iron Heart, Skull...and those SE collab.

http://blueingreensoho.com/
For Samurai, Fullcount, PBJ, SDA...
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Old 11-05-2010, 01:43 AM   #11
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Very good effort, bro! Support!

http://www.selfedge.com/shop/
For Flat Head, Dry Bones, Iron Heart, Skull...and those SE collab.

http://blueingreensoho.com/
For Samurai, Fullcount, PBJ, SDA...
Thanks, added those 2. Thanks for your contribution!
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Old 11-05-2010, 01:57 AM   #12
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http://www.luisaviaroma.com/

DH

http://www.revolveclothing.com/index.jsp?d=Mens+Jeans

nudies, ksubi, naked and famous etc
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Old 11-05-2010, 03:20 AM   #13
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Great Thread Bro!
Hope to see the fit photos of different denim soon
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Old 11-05-2010, 03:22 AM   #14
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jus wanna ask about nudies tight long john...

im currently a size of ard 30 (zara man jeans) .. and i went to QC and try TLJ but i forgot isit size 29 or 30..so can i get any advice tat sld i down size to 29 ? becos i rmb that the particular size i tried..was jus nice cos it was the stretch out version..

PS. both QC and deminstore at mandarin gallery also dun have size 29 or 30 to let me try le =( regret not buying straight.... so now i jus wanna cfm the size 29 is suitable ornot =( thanks !
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:09 AM   #15
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Just a random thought. Would raw jeans continue to fade after one wash? Or i gotta keep wearing them until its trashed and then wash it
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