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Where to tailor clothes =D - Part 3

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Old 26-02-2016, 01:16 PM   #46
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Lunch time on a Friday, lots of time to read prompted by Jthinking & Koburn

Seems like there's an association of Savile Row Tailors (huntsman, Gieves, Norton etc), and here's their definition of Bespoke (at least in the Savile row sense?)
http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/

+++
Every Savile Row Bespoke garment has its own individually handmade pattern, cut by a Master Cutter. It is then made under his or her personal supervision to the exacting standards for which Savile Row is famed.
+++

So then Bespoke would refer more to the DRAFTING and CUTTING process than it would the construction? Of course from scratch and no blocks.

So then in the Savile row sense, KJ, Dylan, SoA etc where individuals draft a personal pattern and cut would be bespoke?

Good food for thought
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Old 26-02-2016, 02:03 PM   #47
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Lunch time on a Friday, lots of time to read prompted by Jthinking & Koburn

Seems like there's an association of Savile Row Tailors (huntsman, Gieves, Norton etc), and here's their definition of Bespoke (at least in the Savile row sense?)
http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/

+++
Every Savile Row Bespoke garment has its own individually handmade pattern, cut by a Master Cutter. It is then made under his or her personal supervision to the exacting standards for which Savile Row is famed.
+++

So then Bespoke would refer more to the DRAFTING and CUTTING process than it would the construction? Of course from scratch and no blocks.

So then in the Savile row sense, KJ, Dylan, SoA etc where individuals draft a personal pattern and cut would be bespoke?

Good food for thought
I'm glad I filled your lunchtime reading...
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Old 26-02-2016, 02:04 PM   #48
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Lunch time on a Friday, lots of time to read prompted by Jthinking & Koburn

Seems like there's an association of Savile Row Tailors (huntsman, Gieves, Norton etc), and here's their definition of Bespoke (at least in the Savile row sense?)
http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/

+++
Every Savile Row Bespoke garment has its own individually handmade pattern, cut by a Master Cutter. It is then made under his or her personal supervision to the exacting standards for which Savile Row is famed.
+++

So then Bespoke would refer more to the DRAFTING and CUTTING process than it would the construction? Of course from scratch and no blocks.

So then in the Savile row sense, KJ, Dylan, SoA etc where individuals draft a personal pattern and cut would be bespoke?

Good food for thought
SOA for shirts yes. KJ I believe only for pants. Dylan, I have my reservations. Lusso, while based on what Koburn says feels close to a Bespoke piece but is still a question mark.

In addition, I believe a paper pattern does not equate to a higher quality product as well. Some of the more advanced tailors from the older generation, eg Meiko and Chan draft on the cloth itself. Seems like there're two school of thoughts on this matter.
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Old 26-02-2016, 02:04 PM   #49
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Lunch time on a Friday, lots of time to read prompted by Jthinking & Koburn

Seems like there's an association of Savile Row Tailors (huntsman, Gieves, Norton etc), and here's their definition of Bespoke (at least in the Savile row sense?)
http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/

+++
Every Savile Row Bespoke garment has its own individually handmade pattern, cut by a Master Cutter. It is then made under his or her personal supervision to the exacting standards for which Savile Row is famed.
+++

So then Bespoke would refer more to the DRAFTING and CUTTING process than it would the construction? Of course from scratch and no blocks.

So then in the Savile row sense, KJ, Dylan, SoA etc where individuals draft a personal pattern and cut would be bespoke?

Good food for thought
Seems like the more things are done from scratch and the less people involved (some say should only be 1 person but I don't think he weaves the cloth or produces the buttons ), the higher up it moves on the scale towards 'true' bespoke.

Pardon the Friday afternoon mindless banter.
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Old 26-02-2016, 02:44 PM   #50
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That's why I used the term "Boasts"

Should ask CBS what he reckons since he also reported the same.

Dont forget Meiko as well!
I simply take it at face value. I believe "claims" would be accurate.

It really doesn't bother me whether it's the tailor himself sewing my button holes or his button hole specialist apprentice. I just want a finished product that is befitting of the claim.
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Old 26-02-2016, 03:26 PM   #51
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SOA for shirts yes. KJ I believe only for pants. Dylan, I have my reservations. Lusso, while based on what Koburn says feels close to a Bespoke piece but is still a question mark.

In addition, I believe a paper pattern does not equate to a higher quality product as well. Some of the more advanced tailors from the older generation, eg Meiko and Chan draft on the cloth itself. Seems like there're two school of thoughts on this matter.
A paper pattern itself isnt a mark of quality

A bespoke paper pattern however is a higher level scratch drafted pattern for an individual which def helps to fulfill the drafting portion of the Savile Bespoke "requirements".

But diff fabrics have different weights and weave so def not a simple strike and cut affair even when using an individual pattern

I dont know if Dylan cuts his own cloth for his bespoke paper pattern but its def drafted from scratch with formula and free hand (rock of the eye)

Bespoke is one of those things which places an emphasis on provenance. You can have a mtm which for all practical purpose bears negligible differences to a bespoke in terms of fit and feel. But due to its provenance cannot be termed Bespoke. Like comparing a GTR or a Ferrari

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Old 26-02-2016, 03:42 PM   #52
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A paper pattern itself isnt a mark of quality

A bespoke paper pattern however is a higher level scratch drafted pattern for an individual which def helps to fulfill the drafting portion of the Savile Bespoke "requirements".

But diff fabrics have different weights and weave so def not a simple strike and cut affair even when using an individual pattern

I dont know if Dylan cuts his own cloth for his bespoke paper pattern but its def drafted from scratch with formula and free hand (rock of the eye)

Bespoke is one of those things which places an emphasis on provenance. You can have a mtm which for all practical purpose bears negligible differences to a bespoke in terms of fit and feel. But due to its provenance cannot be termed Bespoke. Like comparing a GTR or a Ferrari
From what i am gathering, bespoke is a process not the result. An excellent fitting and well made shirt is not bespoke if it is not done in a manner qualifying it to be one whilst a shirt done "in adherence" to bespoke standards (whatever that may be) and therefore conferred the title of a "bespoken shirt" need not necessarily be the best fitting one, though a strong correlation is expected between both.
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Old 26-02-2016, 04:21 PM   #53
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perhaps add Xin En to the list ?

3 pairs of pants for $150. Fit is very decent.
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Old 26-02-2016, 05:20 PM   #54
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A paper pattern itself isnt a mark of quality

A bespoke paper pattern however is a higher level scratch drafted pattern for an individual which def helps to fulfill the drafting portion of the Savile Bespoke "requirements".

But diff fabrics have different weights and weave so def not a simple strike and cut affair even when using an individual pattern

I dont know if Dylan cuts his own cloth for his bespoke paper pattern but its def drafted from scratch with formula and free hand (rock of the eye)

Bespoke is one of those things which places an emphasis on provenance. You can have a mtm which for all practical purpose bears negligible differences to a bespoke in terms of fit and feel. But due to its provenance cannot be termed Bespoke. Like comparing a GTR or a Ferrari
Apologies if I did not clarify myself. If I had to share in your terms, a bespoke paper pattern may not equate to higher quality. There're several old school guys that believes in drafting directly on the fabrics itself.

I also definitely agree that it is not so much a strike and cut affair, but not so much due to the weight and weave, but more of how the fabric responds to the ironwork and stretching.
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Old 26-02-2016, 07:10 PM   #55
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Anyone know if pleats on pants can be removed??

don't like the pleats, and I want to alter the crotch area, excess cloth there makes it bulge out




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Old 26-02-2016, 08:23 PM   #56
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perhaps add Xin En to the list ?

3 pairs of pants for $150. Fit is very decent.
What's the address?
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Old 26-02-2016, 10:10 PM   #57
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[QUOTE=likehotbutter;99951043]I know Ramon back when he started his journey into menswear at Clothesmith.

Havnt tried Herslet however so no experience with their construction or techniques but with my pass experience with him, he has a pretty good eye for dimensions. Just personally not into too flashy stuff.

Thanks! He seems like a pretty sincere dude who's quite passionate about his craft!
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Old 26-02-2016, 10:11 PM   #58
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Anyone interested to try On Kay Jen and wanna share? He has this promotion going on till the end of the year!
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Old 28-02-2016, 10:56 AM   #59
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Hello just want to enq how much does it roughly cost for a pants @ KJ?
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Old 29-02-2016, 10:16 AM   #60
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Hello just want to enq how much does it roughly cost for a pants @ KJ?
I made a VBC pants with Matt at $270, though I think this is before another round of price increase and the current promotion. He does have in house fabrics which will be cheaper, however.
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