StarMex has 2, 3, 4 and 5 ticks. Depending on the model.
In my opinion, don't install air conditioner in your living room. Unless you have a special reason for doing so, you will unlikely use it. Like you mentioned earlier: "haven't turned on my Samsung aircon for a good 5++ years now."
So you would likely need a system 3, system 2+1 single split or 3 single splits. All these depend on the power points that you have the approval to install and the price of the units combination as well as technical factors.
Had spoken to some installer about quality workmanship but it all boils down to profit margin.
In my opinion select the price including installation that you are happy with (in most cases, the lowest is better). Before placing order have the seller agree that the installer will do the following which I had posted previously.
In addition to the below, I had also insist that the installer glue the ends of the insulation tubing to each other rather than just taping it. However, I provide the special glue which the installer does not have.
During the installation of your air conditioner equipment by your contractor, it will come to a time when the gas pipes are to be connected to the condenser and the gas in it will be released to operator the system.
At this stage, there are 4 simple checks that you can do to ensure that your system will last you a long time and avoid expensive repairs.
1. Before the installer connects the gas piping to the condenser and FCU, check that he purge the piping IF he had done brazing on that line. Normally, a "good" installer will pump nitrogen into the pipe while he braze the pipe to ensure that the inside surface of the pipe does not for copper oxide that will affect your system. More information can be found here:
http://www.rses.org/assets/rses_jour...4_Nitrogen.pdf
However, if you are using new pipes, than there should be no brazing and only flare fitting joints are used unless installer "screwed up"!
2. After the installer connects the gas pipes to the condenser, he is required to vacuum the pipes to remove air and moisture inside it. NOTE that the DURATION of vacuuming is 15 mins or more. Many installer will do it for a very shot period or 5 mins (some don't even do it), specially when you don't time them. Proper vacuuming is important to protect the compressor, other parts as well as for effective cooling and for leak check.
3. After the 15 mins of vacuuming, the installer will have to close the low pressure manifold gauge valve (to make it easier for readers, look for the blue gauge and blue knob on the manifold gauge) and shut off the vacuum pump. AT THIS MOMENT, take a photo of the blue gauge focusing on the gauge pointer reading. Then wait for 1 to 2 mins and take another photo of the same gauge. Compare the position of the gauge pointer. If the position of the pointer has changed, even for a slight amount, is a sight of leaking some where in the piping or the manifold gauge tubing. The installer has to rectify this issue and redo the vacuum all over again. If this is not comply, you cannot confirmed that your system will not leak in the next 3 months time, one year time or even 2 years time when your warranty is over.
4. After the above point 3 is done accordingly, and the system is running, ask the installer to apply some soap and water solution over the service valve at the condenser to confirm that there is not leaking. If soap bubbles start to grow bigger at the valve, it is a sight that some thing there is leaking. The installer needs to rectify this and redo the soap leak test again.
The above are common practices that installers will normally skips from the manufacturer's installation requirements but can be very costly for you in future. Some installer may even argue with you for doing this, so get the understanding and agreement from the dealer that you purchase the system from that you want these steps to be done.
The above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful