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Old 18-01-2015, 04:15 PM   #7576
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Thanks! Not sure if it makes sense but im trying to find food grade mineral oil

Edited: seems like the ikea mineral oil is a safe bet for knife which might be needed for food preparation !

SKYDD Wood treatment oil, indoor use - IKEA
Pros are saying food grade mineral oil has too much tiny dust that causes folders joints to jam up.

They actually used it for kitchen knives?
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Old 18-01-2015, 09:56 PM   #7577
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Pros are saying food grade mineral oil has too much tiny dust that causes folders joints to jam up.

They actually used it for kitchen knives?
Im using for fixed blade. Folder i use singer oil and if some visible rust on blade i use aluminium foil with singer to polish
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Old 18-01-2015, 11:28 PM   #7578
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you have more than 100posts so perhaps you can post a pic, you can host it on one of the free photosharing sites - it'll be easier to identify/know how bad the rust looks. When you say 'greyish' - do you mean it is beadblasted (matt) or satin/polished? also, is it carbon steel, stainless steel, an antique, what is the value etc. For antiques, you really don't want to remove anything but arrest the rust. Restoration may hurt its value. There are lots of youtube videos showing the use of vinegar, baking soda etc on rust removal.
here are some pics! thanks for the help guys!
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Old 18-01-2015, 11:32 PM   #7579
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are these images good enough? i dont know what to make of these marks along the blade
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Old 19-01-2015, 12:06 AM   #7580
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The steel underneath is rusting and eating through the paint.

Even if you polish/remove the rust away, the rusted spot will be bare steel which is silver.

So technically if you wish to restore the knife, you will have to strip off the paint, remove the rust then repaint the knife.

That's a Commando Dagger! A pic from the interwebs:
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Last edited by squarebox; 19-01-2015 at 12:10 AM..
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Old 19-01-2015, 10:10 AM   #7581
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Yup it is! @squarebox even so.. how do you suggest i remove the rust? does some rust bits on my velvet lining on the box make the blade rust even more? Sorry but im really quite noob at this
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Old 19-01-2015, 02:27 PM   #7582
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Something a little off topic

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Last edited by mamba2012; 19-01-2015 at 03:52 PM..
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Old 19-01-2015, 03:40 PM   #7583
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Yup it is! @squarebox even so.. how do you suggest i remove the rust? does some rust bits on my velvet lining on the box make the blade rust even more? Sorry but im really quite noob at this
gary, an issued FS dagger certainly merits some care and attention. I've no experience with the stiletto you have or how its constructed or the materials used. I looked it up a little and it appears to be made by a company based in Sheffield using carbon steel. Not sure if yours has been blued, coated, painted etc.

If you don't mind experimenting why not try cleaning the rust spots with some WD40 and a toothbrush first. The bristles are generally soft although it may leave some marks the coating is very soft. The coating may be discoloured but I don't think you can run away from that. If you can remove the rust (or at least scrub away the rust), then you can apply a little autosol using a cotton bud - see how much you can remove....ultimately, unless you strip the entire coating, refinish then respray, you can only clean off and arrest the rust a little. After cleaning, you should ensure that you rustproof the stiletto to prevent further corrosion.

If you want a shortcut, you can ask Sheares how to refurb the stiletto? I believe that CDO units make their unit purchases via Sheares?

Good luck and let us know how it goes....
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Old 19-01-2015, 04:19 PM   #7584
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The stiletto... I call it the pride that comes with rust. Just about unavoidable.. Short of a full strip, rust proofing and then repainting.. there's really not much else that can restore it well or close to its original pristine state. I have an older one, it rust even easier but since its "unpainted" it's easier to oil and keep rust at bay. Still the exposed edges is a pain and need a little honing time to time to lick off tiny rust spots, oiled or not.
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Old 19-01-2015, 06:49 PM   #7585
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The stiletto... I call it the pride that comes with rust. Just about unavoidable.. Short of a full strip, rust proofing and then repainting.. there's really not much else that can restore it well or close to its original pristine state. I have an older one, it rust even easier but since its "unpainted" it's easier to oil and keep rust at bay. Still the exposed edges is a pain and need a little honing time to time to lick off tiny rust spots, oiled or not.
I'd say go radical on it. Buy a paint stripper and strip off all the paint from the knife. after that, attack the rust - first with rust removers then with 0000 wool, then hone it a little. Thereafter spray paint it flat black (you can buy the aerosol. if you want it to really stick, use the flat black paint for motorbike exhausts - those are twice the price of the pylox but last a long long time) and it's nice and matt. Store it back in your display box with your badges, call signs etc but check it from time to time.

Show us once you're done
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Old 19-01-2015, 09:03 PM   #7586
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thanks guys! looks like theres lot of work to be done! i'll try it out with the wd40 first! about rustproofing, use mineral oil would be preferred or maybe just wd40?

hahaha painting it flat black sounds really awesome!
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Old 19-01-2015, 10:42 PM   #7587
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Mine didn't come with a display box as memento... since it's illegal to carry outside and frankly it has limited functions outside of those gungho slit-a-sentry war movie scene.. I used it as a letter opener around the house

Ok nevermind me.. just trying to chalk up to a 100 post to post pictures...
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Old 20-01-2015, 08:11 PM   #7588
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thanks guys! looks like theres lot of work to be done! i'll try it out with the wd40 first! about rustproofing, use mineral oil would be preferred or maybe just wd40?

hahaha painting it flat black sounds really awesome!
rustproofing - if you're gonna paint it, then painting it is rustproofing it. If you gonna etch it with hot vinegar, then the etch/patina helps to rustproof. I would apply a wax like renaissance wax after etching to make it even more rust-resistant. Or else you can oil it as well.

WD40 is not a anti-corrosion spray - it is a water displacer and doesn't work well as a anti-corrosion treatment. You can use singer oil, lithium grease, gun oil, tuff glide, breakfree clp, militec, eezox, fishing reel oil etc etc. If you're going to use it to cut food up, then you should use a food-safe oil.

Mineral oil (for eg. Ikea) is generally very thick and also attracts a lot of gunk. some oils are less viscous and may be easier to apply and dries nicer.

If you're just going to put it back in the safe, I recommend renaissance wax - a little goes a long way, and you can buff it a little after it dries.
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Old 20-01-2015, 11:16 PM   #7589
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Very Informative there Vespaguy, i guess i'll make a trip down to the hardware shop with those in mind! Thanks so much!
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Old 21-01-2015, 09:52 PM   #7590
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rustproofing - if you're gonna paint it, then painting it is rustproofing it. If you gonna etch it with hot vinegar, then the etch/patina helps to rustproof. I would apply a wax like renaissance wax after etching to make it even more rust-resistant. Or else you can oil it as well.

WD40 is not a anti-corrosion spray - it is a water displacer and doesn't work well as a anti-corrosion treatment. You can use singer oil, lithium grease, gun oil, tuff glide, breakfree clp, militec, eezox, fishing reel oil etc etc. If you're going to use it to cut food up, then you should use a food-safe oil.

Mineral oil (for eg. Ikea) is generally very thick and also attracts a lot of gunk. some oils are less viscous and may be easier to apply and dries nicer.

If you're just going to put it back in the safe, I recommend renaissance wax - a little goes a long way, and you can buff it a little after it dries.
Or if u have extra money to burn, then this i saw in black tactical may just work.

NanoProtech
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