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Old 09-11-2015, 06:54 PM   #8266
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What do you guys use as a sharpness test (to stop sharpening call it a day) other than shaving hair? Since different person and different part of the body has different hair thickness, I guess this test isn't too consistent. I tested cutting different types of paper and water bottles and getting inconsistent results. My folding knife is much sharper than my Bowie knife when cutting paper/ shaving but can't cut a water bottle cleanly in 2 without knocking it away. While the Bowie can do it easily. How to make it cut through a bottle easily? Is there some kind of sharpening technique for this task?
For sharpness test, I use those stupid flyers that keep ending up outside my house or my mailbox. Sometimes I get those phonebook paper thin pamphlets and I save them and use them sparingly.

Personally, as long as the knife is cutting and not tearing the paper, I'm happy with the edge.
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Old 09-11-2015, 11:09 PM   #8267
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Normally, I just test sharpness by slicing newspaper.
But sometimes, I like to test sharpness by splitting hair
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Old 10-11-2015, 08:40 AM   #8268
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Makes sense. Though I seen it done with folding knives on youtube.
I'm not a youtuber, so I guess I'm wrong. However, what I know is this - you don't need the sharpest hairsplitting edge to cut well. Look at the bladesports cutting competitions (Dan Keffeler is reigning and 3 times defending champion). Those edges are sharp enough to cut rolled cigarette paper yet strong enough to cut 2x4s (ok that is rather soft wood), sisal rope, golf balls, tennis balls etc. Too polished and they don't cut well. Too rough/low grit and the cigarette paper will crumple. It is mostly technique, edge geometry, blade weight/speed and the edge itself.

Have you tried cutting nylon rope, for eg. your toggle rope or marine rope with a polished edge? it simply skips off. Have you tried cutting chicken with a polished edge? it doesn't really bite, you'll edge up tearing the meat.

I prefer a shaving sharp yet toothy edge - say about 1000grit edge, maybe at max 2000 grit edge (for kitchen). anything more is not necessary for me.

I have no interest in mirrored edges that split hair - those don't last long anyway - micro-corrosion soon degrades that edge. I have experienced those (Jerry Halfrich's edges, I always thought it was a myth since I'd never experienced those edges) but at the end of the day, I still prefer the toothy yet very sharp edges...like those RJ Martin/Tom Krein edges (Tom sharpens on a 220 belt, then strops. RJ goes a higher grit). It's the perfect alignment of the edge (careful removal of the burr) that is more important.

I'm still a novice. One day I will get there
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Old 10-11-2015, 10:10 AM   #8269
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Happy Diwali/Deepavali to all Hindu knifeknuts and all who celebrate

I will celebrate too by savouring some Indian dishes later.

This Diwali week, I am offering the following Marfione Custom Anax with a whole bunch of freebies for [revised - see below post] Thank you for looking.



You can see the value of what I'm including (some of the decals are priceless/can't be bought), and the CRKT I'm including is here:

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/CR5...nd-g10-handles
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Last edited by vespaguy; 11-11-2015 at 11:56 AM..
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Old 10-11-2015, 10:20 PM   #8270
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Hi guys,

I'm pretty new to this knife scene but anyway recently I was trying to pick up sharpening and just got myself a lansky 5 stone deluxe to do the job (probably not the best system out there, I thought it was value for money and gentle learning curve).

So I was putting the system to test and I realized that after finishing up the last stone (1000 grit), I find that the edge is not consistent. For instance, the shine of the edge looks messy and uneven. I also realized that "flatter" edge is pretty sharp and is able to cut paper with ease, but when it comes to the curve edge (nearer to the tip), paper start to tear.

Any tips there to improve on this?

I am still hand holding the clamp itself, considering buying a bench vice to hold the clamp.
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Old 10-11-2015, 10:48 PM   #8271
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Hi guys,

...but when it comes to the curve edge (nearer to the tip), paper start to tear.

Any tips there to improve on this?
hello the curve edge - that's generally called the 'belly'. I don't know anything about the lansky, but likely you're not hitting the actual edge (the apex), so you're just sharpening the rest of the edge bevel but not the actual apex.

Did you test for the burr/wire edge throughout the edge?

You can use a marker pen and mark the edge to ensure that you're actually sharpening the apex of the edge throughout the whole length of the blade.

Since I have failing eyesight, I would recommend using a magnifying glass if you have trouble looking at the edge too. But try feeling for the burr with your fingernail.
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Old 10-11-2015, 11:25 PM   #8272
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Hi guys,

I'm pretty new to this knife scene but anyway recently I was trying to pick up sharpening and just got myself a lansky 5 stone deluxe to do the job (probably not the best system out there, I thought it was value for money and gentle learning curve).

So I was putting the system to test and I realized that after finishing up the last stone (1000 grit), I find that the edge is not consistent. For instance, the shine of the edge looks messy and uneven. I also realized that "flatter" edge is pretty sharp and is able to cut paper with ease, but when it comes to the curve edge (nearer to the tip), paper start to tear.

Any tips there to improve on this?

I am still hand holding the clamp itself, considering buying a bench vice to hold the clamp.
For the Lansky, this is hands-down the best video guide I've seen.

If you have any problems, Aaron will respond to your comments and PMs. I don't know how he does that now that he is a full time knifemaker.
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Old 11-11-2015, 12:34 AM   #8273
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No problem. Another company that also did that was Benchmade. This was quite a controversy in the US. Spyderco does not enforce such things, which is why you see prices low as hell on Amazon.

What happened was brick and mortar stores lose out in business when the MAP policy was absent. This was why KSF (who also operates with a physical store) stopped carrying Spydercos and is trying to clear them all now.
Spyderco has now stated that they will enforce MAP by 1 Jan 2016.

So, this Black Friday, buy whatever Spyderco that you have been looking for! Don't hold back on this, because you might not be able to get them at this price anymore.

EDIT: I'll be getting one of their ZDP-189 knives; a Caly 3.5 hopefully. Otherwise I'm looking at the Stretch or DFly2.

EDIT 2: Gayle Bradley 1 is discontinued, some places still have it at USD140, which is a good price. Not my cup of tea, but it is a great knife.

Last edited by Shikiwaru; 11-11-2015 at 12:44 AM..
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Old 11-11-2015, 11:53 AM   #8274
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last call

Ok, I'd like to make one last special offer to local guys before I retire it to the safe or to another country

1. Bundled Offer only (I won't separate at this price):

ZT0801 + Spyderco Domino with additional aftermarket 'original spaceman' deep carry titanium clip. NIB/LNIB. Box papers everything.All for only USD375 via paypal, all in.


For transparency:

ZT0801 - USD192 + shipping (usually around USD20+)
Spyderco Domino - USD210 + shipping (usually around USD20+). Aftermarket titanium clip is another USD20.
Total value (assuming you buy from same place and pay USD25 shipping): USD447.

2. Marfione Custom Anax plus whole suite of freebies is still available at USD783.75 via paypal, all in. NIB/LNIB. Box papers everything.

For transparency:
The CRKT Ikoma Fossil I'm including is USD50 + shipping (usually around USD20+). The other freebies are priceless (and definitely more than USD20+). Marfione Custom Anax is USD750 + shipping (usually USD20+ or more).

3. Hinderer Custom Spearpoint with custom silver lanyard bead is still available at USD1,280 via paypal, all in. The value of the silver bead plus extra Orange G10 Scale is more than USD100. Dead Mint.

Transparency: This is a very rare grind, I have not seen this long-deep swedged being sold in the aftermarket, don't confuse with the normal swedged spearpoint.

Payment must be via paypal in USD. Not cash, not SGD. Self collect or delivery in Bukit Panjang area.

Hope you can help with my quest to streamline and downsize - my loss is your gain.

Thanks!

Last edited by vespaguy; 11-11-2015 at 03:00 PM..
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Old 12-11-2015, 10:45 AM   #8275
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I stand corrected that folders can't do the bottle cut! Here's what I think: you need to have a longish/largish blade. Edge cannot be polished, otherwise it won't bite into the plastic (same concept as I mentioned above ie. polished edge won't cut nylon/maritime ropes well). Technique wins.

Great videos
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Old 12-11-2015, 04:11 PM   #8276
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I think I might have over polished the edge on the sharpmaker fine rods. It's super sharp when slicing paper/ shaving but doesn't even puncture the plastic on a few occasions. Slides off while bottle go flying.
Must agree that part of it is technique. He uses a back hand technique that kinda facilitates a slash rather than a chop.
Maybe you can try putting a toothier microbevel? Otherwise, it might boil down to technique and edge alignment with respect to the object you're cutting.

Sometimes you see in the Cold Steel demo videos, the people do not cut the objects cleanly and leave some bit of it hanging.
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Old 12-11-2015, 06:13 PM   #8277
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Hi guys,

I'm pretty new to this knife scene but anyway recently I was trying to pick up sharpening and just got myself a lansky 5 stone deluxe to do the job (probably not the best system out there, I thought it was value for money and gentle learning curve).

So I was putting the system to test and I realized that after finishing up the last stone (1000 grit), I find that the edge is not consistent. For instance, the shine of the edge looks messy and uneven. I also realized that "flatter" edge is pretty sharp and is able to cut paper with ease, but when it comes to the curve edge (nearer to the tip), paper start to tear.

Any tips there to improve on this?

I am still hand holding the clamp itself, considering buying a bench vice to hold the clamp.
Same issue here. The belly just does not seem to want to cooperate with the stone.

Once i got mad and just started filing the stone up and down on the belly out of frustration. Bad mistake; the belly is now thinner than the rest of the cutting edge.

But for some unexplainable reason, the Lansky works extremely well on an old SAK. Sharpened both belly and the rest of the blade uniformly. *shrugs*
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Old 12-11-2015, 07:48 PM   #8278
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I have a lansky too. For this type of system must take note that the further you go away from the clamping part the lower the sharpening angle. If the knife is long it makes sense to sharpen in stages. Try reclamp nearer to the tip and try the belly again.
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Old 12-11-2015, 08:14 PM   #8279
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Hello there, have been lurking and reading all your insightful posts. Wonderful stuff, and thank you for sharing so generously.

I've a question. I'm looking for some mineral oil to coat and protect my carbon blades with. Do you know of locally available options? If there is none, then I'd go online to get them.

Thank you!
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Old 12-11-2015, 09:37 PM   #8280
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Hello there, have been lurking and reading all your insightful posts. Wonderful stuff, and thank you for sharing so generously.

I've a question. I'm looking for some mineral oil to coat and protect my carbon blades with. Do you know of locally available options? If there is none, then I'd go online to get them.

Thank you!


Singer oil(mineral oil) for hard use knife and folders. If kitchen knife, use food grade oil.

Reason being mineral oil has less particle which may hindle pivot.



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