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Old 13-03-2016, 05:46 PM   #9001
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From local store. I haven't been practising lately. The slash looks weak. Will try horizontal cut and bamboo cut next.
Great, mind sharing the contact? I'd like to get some. I can't find nice thick bamboo
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Old 13-03-2016, 05:57 PM   #9002
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Great, mind sharing the contact? I'd like to get some. I can't find nice thick bamboo
Laundry bamboo pool not thick enough?
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Old 13-03-2016, 06:01 PM   #9003
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Laundry bamboo pool not thick enough?
Seasoned bamboo is very hard on the sword edges. Normally they use green bamboo for Tameshigiri.
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Old 13-03-2016, 06:06 PM   #9004
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I am thinking to get a sword. What do you think of the Cold steel Dragonfly Wakizashi? Sheares has it in stock for $1300 (b4 disc.) with a bunch of other swords including Hanwei.
No no no. Go get a good jian or dao.
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Old 13-03-2016, 06:41 PM   #9005
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Cold Steel stuff are not accurate historical representations of the respective weapons. (E.g. The katanas may be way too thick compared to a traditional one)

That being said, if you're just planning on having fun and cutting tatami, they'll do okay.
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Old 13-03-2016, 08:17 PM   #9006
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How about the Kershaw Camp 10, 14 & 18?
It will be fun.
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Old 13-03-2016, 09:35 PM   #9007
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Its straw mat from my nearby hardware shop. It was too long and a little thin. I had to cut it in 2 and double up the thickness.

I am thinking to get a sword. What do you think of the Cold steel Dragonfly Wakizashi? Sheares has it in stock for $1300 (b4 disc.) with a bunch of other swords including Hanwei.
No experience with swords...I think the Chinese swords are geared more for westerners in terms of weight. There are quite a few Chinese foundries doing swords these days.

The cutting is great, but I do hope you find a dedicated 'fenced' space for your cutting. I really am uncomfortable with the cutting being done in the stairlanding/foyer as it is very risky. In addition, it may cause concern to residents and will attract attention form authorities (HDB, TC, SPF etc). When cutting, there is no way of 'braking'. And you are always focused on the cut. Unlike in Archery, you don't have a dedicated and barricaded range. I have experienced a blade flying out of the handle (unpinned but just illustrating a point) and landing some 15 feet away. If anyone was in the radius, there would have been a certain accident, and I dread to think of the consequences. In my case, I was chopping down on the wood. In your case, you are cutting sideways.

In cutting competitions - the rules require, amongst other things, a pinned handle, and a lanyard attached to the front of the handle (not rear as the knife flying out of your hands may strike you when it swings from your wrist if the lanyard is attached to the butt of the handle).

Just a little 2cts from a conservative old guy and really just looking out for the community (which includes you ) - I won't harp on this topic anymore.

Last edited by vespaguy; 14-03-2016 at 04:51 PM..
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Old 14-03-2016, 05:24 PM   #9008
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No experience with swords...I think the Chinese swords are geared more for westerners in terms of weight. There are quite a few Chinese foundries doing swords these days.

The cutting is great, but I do hope you find a dedicated 'fenced' space for your cutting. I really am uncomfortable with the cutting being done in the stairlanding/foyer as it is very risky. In addition, it may cause concern to residents and will attract attention form authorities (HDB, TC, SPF etc). When cutting, there is no way of 'braking'. And you are always focused on the cut. Unlike in Archery, you don't have a dedicated and barricaded range. I have experienced a blade flying out of the handle (unpinned but just illustrating a point) and landing some 15 feet away. If anyone was in the radius, there would have been a certain accident, and I dread to think of the consequences. In my case, I was chopping down on the wood. In your case, you are cutting sideways.

In cutting competitions - the rules require, amongst other things, a pinned handle, and a lanyard attached to the front of the handle (not rear as the knife flying out of your hands may strike you when it swings from your wrist if the lanyard is attached to the butt of the handle).

Just a little 2cts from a conservative old guy and really just looking out for the community (which includes you ) - I won't harp on this topic anymore.
Having the cutting video on YouTube doesn't help your case either. While not exactly a crime, it is self-incriminating evidence, should anybody decide to lodge a complain. Also, there's the issue of your face being in there. With the amount of siao langs these days... These kinds of videos don't allay their fears in the least bit.

In my opinion, that's why generally nobody has commented too much on those videos. It's for your safety and for the community at large.

Last edited by mamba2012; 14-03-2016 at 05:59 PM..
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Old 14-03-2016, 11:18 PM   #9009
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Like I said b4 the area is generally secluded only 3 units. Nobody passes by. Each unit has our own area in front where we put our plants and stuff. I only start cutting when nobody around. No worries I won't do anything that compromise safety. What if the blade flies off from handle? The danger level is no higher than people go shopping at the wet market and the butchers chop their meat close proximity to everyone walking around. Btw the video is unlisted and can not appear in search. only here it can be viewed. In Archery there's no guaranteed safety either. The range just below my block has no netting or barrier at the end. If someone accidentally shoots high (can happen if the sight is loose and slid down) the arrow can actually hit someone walking at the pavement at the end which is only 120 m away. Easily reach from a 40# bow. I actually made a formal complaint to the town council yet no action done. I guess they accepted the risk and do away with no additional protection.
Don't underestimate the stupid SJWs in Singapore. Just imagine the level of dumbness I've shown in my Carousell example, only on a bigger scale.

Whatever it is, lie low and stay safe. Hopefully nobody stupid chances upon your video.
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Old 15-03-2016, 09:26 AM   #9010
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how has the edge on the natchez held up so far? have you tried cutting harder materials - wood? the slight curve in the blade does look attractive.
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Old 15-03-2016, 11:50 AM   #9011
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I accidentally cut the hard part of bottles at the cap a few times and have tried chop up some plywood. Edge held up with no damage so far. Haven't cut much with it but I don't expect the edge retention to be great with O-1 steel since it's just simple carbon steel. Would prefer the stainless SM3 version for edge retention and shiny look.
O1 is pretty good, a tool steel so it will still be tough. My only O1 (many years ago, I think the knife is still floating out there somewhere hahaha...it was made by an Melbourne based maker) knife was a rust magnet though, I had to slather it in oil. But it took a wicked edge, and was easy to sharpen. No trouble putting a nice edge on it on stones....I think that is a great advantage for a working knife, compared with the supersteels. When you have to go without all the fancy sharpening equipment for a long time, and you only have a benchstone with you/where you're staying, the benefits of a simple carbon tool steel will shine.

I think O1 may be better than 5160. But probably depends on the heat treat. A good heat treat does wonders to a less than stellar steel, but a poor heat treat makes a supersteel mediocre.

For the old skool steels, I prefer A2 (never tried 52100).

Is the Natchez blade differentally quenched? if so, try putting an etch on it, maybe you'll have the quench line show up, may be nice too.

ps: try cutting bone - it's a more realistic test than plywood for real use. Just go buy the beef/pork bones from the market. After that you can scoop out the marrow and roast it in the oven. That's pure goodness (not for your health though, lol). The bones can be used to boil soup too.

If you want to test edge toughness, another test would be to cut a tin can (not across the soft body) but straight down on the rim - that's pretty tough too. To prevent food wastage, you can cut up cans of food which have expired and are inedible.

Last edited by vespaguy; 15-03-2016 at 11:58 AM..
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Old 15-03-2016, 12:26 PM   #9012
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ps: try cutting bone - it's a more realistic test than plywood for real use. Just go buy the beef/pork bones from the market. After that you can scoop out the marrow and roast it in the oven. That's pure goodness (not for your health though, lol). The bones can be used to boil soup too.
The unbranded butcher's knife with mystery steel that my mom had been using for the past 40 years can chop through bone until now. I really don't think bone is a good measure for a steel's toughness.
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Old 15-03-2016, 01:00 PM   #9013
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The unbranded butcher's knife with mystery steel that my mom had been using for the past 40 years can chop through bone until now. I really don't think bone is a good measure for a steel's toughness.
Depend on the edge grind and the bone dryness. A thick and blunt cleaver will chop bones all day. I see katanas chipping on youtube when cutting bones. If it hold doesn't chip or roll on hard leg bones at 20 dps or below edge angle then IMO the steel and heat treat is pretty decent. Not going to try with my Natchez. Too expensive and I don't trust CS heat treat. There's pretty good chance the edge will go to hell.
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Old 15-03-2016, 05:03 PM   #9014
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The unbranded butcher's knife with mystery steel that my mom had been using for the past 40 years can chop through bone until now. I really don't think bone is a good measure for a steel's toughness.
The femur bones are tough. The bones chopping test isn't just managing to chop through. After chopping bones, you need to check the edge for deformation, rolls, chips after that? Has the edge been dulled substantially? And after that does the edge still slice, still shave etc. Femur bones are tough on knives that's why they use bandsaws (also to prevent shattering of the bones). Anyways, it's just another fun test

Try using your knives to test out the edges - sharpen your edges to acute angles then cut material to see what the edge will take. I've rolled the edges on many knives, chipped quite a few too (micro chips). A friend has taken a 1mm chunk out of my 5160 blade which I sharpened to an acute thin edge, I complained to the seller/maker and he said well if you start chopping stones, expect to have chips lol

Ice is tough too...I've used a khukri to chop through an ice block, thereafter I could see rolls (no chips) - probably carbon steel and low RC. It wouldn't shave anything after that, of course.

Scandi makers also test their edges by shaving antlers...that's pretty hard on knives too. They can also see if the edges (not the whole knife) flexes. THere's the brass rod test too.
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Last edited by vespaguy; 16-03-2016 at 12:24 AM..
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Old 16-03-2016, 08:05 PM   #9015
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sharing my recent discovery - the way he speaks reminds me of me

pigeon anyone? (I don't think we have pheasants in Singapore but we do have some jungle fowl and lots of wild pigeons and quail....)

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