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Air conditioning - Any recommendations please??

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Old 14-05-2009, 10:37 AM   #256
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hi mjzsakae, your worry isn't entirely unfounded.

although it is correct that the longer the copper pipes the more 'cold' you'll lose along the way. but then, why do you buy an air-con? to feel cool rite? so having the air-con at a corner may also not be ideal for quick cooling of the room.

it's a trade-off lah, basically. nobody can say for sure unless he tried it both ways.
Agree with you but I tink i better not take the risk. I will ask them to place it another 1.5metres further down so that it is at least blowing at my legs. lOlx..

I just bought Sharp inverter system 3 at courts for $2999 with 5yrs warranty. Is the price ok? Hvn't read anything about sharp Aircon.does anyone using this brand can comment about it's performance and quality?
Dun you think its too late to ask now since you already paid? =x
Anyway, i have been googling ard and i have been seeing ppl mentioning brands like Toshiba, Mitsubishi, Panasonic, Daikin. =)
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Old 14-05-2009, 01:19 PM   #257
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Hi guys.. Called my air con contractor and did some discussion with him.
Oh ya.. I am buying Toshiba's System3 non-invertor, combination is 9000btu x3.
The Condenser Unit has 2 compressors inside, one is 12000btu and the other i tink 8000+ btu. I am planning to share the stronger one between 2 rooms, and the other to the living room only. Meaning each room will get 6000btu if both units are ON. My contractor doesn't encourage this as he is afraid that it might not be strong enough to cool down the room which i am afraid too but i tink should be ok for me as i don't really set it to really low.

Does anyone noes how does the compressor really works inside? It is a technical question.
Lets say if when both rooms FCU turned ON, each is 6000btu. When 1 FCU reaches the desired temp, the FCU unit will stop and cut connections to the compressor? When 1 FCU reaches desired temp, does it mean the other FCU which is still running will get 9000btu from the compressor?

Hope someone can answer this. THANKS!
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Old 14-05-2009, 02:25 PM   #258
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Hi guys.. Called my air con contractor and did some discussion with him.
Oh ya.. I am buying Toshiba's System3 non-invertor, combination is 9000btu x3.
The Condenser Unit has 2 compressors inside, one is 12000btu and the other i tink 8000+ btu. I am planning to share the stronger one between 2 rooms, and the other to the living room only. Meaning each room will get 6000btu if both units are ON. My contractor doesn't encourage this as he is afraid that it might not be strong enough to cool down the room which i am afraid too but i tink should be ok for me as i don't really set it to really low.

Does anyone noes how does the compressor really works inside? It is a technical question.
Lets say if when both rooms FCU turned ON, each is 6000btu. When 1 FCU reaches the desired temp, the FCU unit will stop and cut connections to the compressor? When 1 FCU reaches desired temp, does it mean the other FCU which is still running will get 9000btu from the compressor?
Hope someone can answer this. THANKS!
Good question, one that i've also been thinking... do let me know when you've found the answer.

For energy saving sake, I think that you should pair up the 2 rooms which you'll most lilkely be using often together. At least that way, you'll not be running 2 compressors that often.

6000BTU may be a little on the low side...
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Old 18-05-2009, 10:39 AM   #259
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hi all,

yesterday i went ahead and paid for a new system-4.

Got Toshiba Inverter System-4 (10-10-10-16), upgrade to thicker insulation and copper pipes and a 5-year extended warranty for ~$4400!

Too exp? It was ~$3600 before the various upgrades: ~$400 for thicker insulation and copper pipes; and ~$400 for 4 more years of warranty.

Ouch!

Got Toshiba coz their Compressor Unit is made in japan, and then i found out the staffs themselves are using Toshiba in their homes.
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Old 18-05-2009, 03:18 PM   #260
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So.. has MHI changed the motor?
Does it improve the cooling in the bedrooms?
yes. It is much quieter, no motor noise at all and the bedroom is a nice temperature. Overall I am very happy with it now. 25-26 degrees is all I need to set it to in the bedroom for comfortable temp.
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Old 18-05-2009, 04:33 PM   #261
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yes. It is much quieter, no motor noise at all and the bedroom is a nice temperature. Overall I am very happy with it now. 25-26 degrees is all I need to set it to in the bedroom for comfortable temp.
Wasn't yours a Fujitsu Inverter? (same brand as my current one...)

can they just change the Compressor Unit (i take it you mean the entire outdoor unit, right?), and keep the Fujitsu FCUs (Indoor Units); or did they change the entire system?

And did you have to pay for it?
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Old 18-05-2009, 07:31 PM   #262
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hi all,

yesterday i went ahead and paid for a new system-4.

Got Toshiba Inverter System-4 (10-10-10-16), upgrade to thicker insulation and copper pipes and a 5-year extended warranty for ~$4400!

Too exp? It was ~$3600 before the various upgrades: ~$400 for thicker insulation and copper pipes; and ~$400 for 4 more years of warranty.

Ouch!

Got Toshiba coz their Compressor Unit is made in japan, and then i found out the staffs themselves are using Toshiba in their homes.
Hi, where did you get your aircon from? Will 16 btu be sufficient to cool a 5rm flat's living room?
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Old 19-05-2009, 09:09 AM   #263
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Hi, where did you get your aircon from? Will 16 btu be sufficient to cool a 5rm flat's living room?
I bought it from GainCity. Too exp?

I built a sliding door so that my living rm can be enclosed, after which the floor area is no bigger than the master bedrm. In fact, I thought 16k BTU would be too much... but err on the safe side.
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Old 19-05-2009, 09:49 AM   #264
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Thanks. I haven't really started looking for aircons yet, not sure the pricing. Good idea abt the sliding door, may see if I can do one for my new place too
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Old 19-05-2009, 09:53 AM   #265
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Thanks. I haven't really started looking for aircons yet, not sure the pricing. Good idea abt the sliding door, may see if I can do one for my new place too
It's not velly expensive, use the hanging ones so that there'll not be threads on the floor.

If possible let it slide towards the corridor leading to the rooms so it'll not look weird when fully opened.

Set up a mini home theatre in the living room and close up the sliding door and windows, and you have your very own Movie Screening room (hehe...)

Oh ya... this is Air-Con thread... anyhow, do spend some effort on your Air-Con installation unlike me, less than 5 years gotta change liao! Waste more $$$ like this!

And if you forsee using it frequently (like daily), try to pay a bit of attention on energy consumation. http://els.nea.gov.sg/mels/aircon.asp

Last edited by thesingingbard; 19-05-2009 at 09:57 AM..
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Old 19-05-2009, 09:59 AM   #266
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I already planned to build a partition at the living room, can just install a door from the partition. You have false ceilings? Can the tracks/threads be placed on a false ceiling?
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Old 19-05-2009, 10:09 AM   #267
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I already planned to build a partition at the living room, can just install a door from the partition. You have false ceilings? Can the tracks/threads be placed on a false ceiling?
hm... i didn't install false ceilings coz mine is HDB, dun wanna make ceiling even shorter.

But the hanging threads did not start from the ceiling, contractors installed a short false wall from the ceiling and mount the threads (hidden) on it. Not sure if i'm making myself clear...
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Old 19-05-2009, 10:30 AM   #268
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Understand what you mean, now that you mention it, my uncle also did something similar in the past. Will take a look at his. Thanks.

Meanwhile, still sourcing for a system 4 aircon. 3 bedrooms, 1 living, anyone with recommendations?
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Old 19-05-2009, 10:46 AM   #269
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Understand what you mean, now that you mention it, my uncle also did something similar in the past. Will take a look at his. Thanks.

Meanwhile, still sourcing for a system 4 aircon. 3 bedrooms, 1 living, anyone with recommendations?
i think installation is very important for A/C.

INSULATION. If done badly, can result in condensation (sweating), cooling inefficiency. Apparently AMAFLEX is the choice insulation brand. And thicker is better, but also means larger trunkings (ugly). Should get at least 1/2" thick, or 3/4"if it is going to run inside false ceiling. 1"? Singapore is very humid leh!

COPPER PIPES. Again, thicker is better. More resistent to gas leaks. New refridgerant R410a (common in Inverters) uses higher pressure than the older R22. Apparently local standard is Gauge-23 (lower number means thickness walls) for R410a, but i read some European Manuals that says at least 0.8mm thickness for Copper Pipe walls (which is Gauge-21!).

PLACEMENT of FCU (Fan Coil Unit). When deciding on this, think of maintenance. Is it easily to access it? And if it leaks or water drips from it, would it be disasterous?
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Old 19-05-2009, 03:24 PM   #270
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Thanks, very informative stuff
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