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Air conditioning - Any recommendations please??

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Old 17-12-2016, 09:41 AM   #8956
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not necessary the tick cause seldom use it.. i need it to be reliable.........
Hi,

Top 3 brands that I noticed from dealers, not in order of position:

1. Panasonic
2. Daikin
3. Mitsubishi Electric StarMex (NOT Mitsubishi Heavy Industries)

Do also consider the tick because it is likely that you will recover the initial cost different from your usage. However, if you seldom use it, then good not to install at all.
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Last edited by dachee; 17-12-2016 at 09:43 AM..
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Old 17-12-2016, 09:55 AM   #8957
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Looking to replace my 15 year old Sanyo system 3.

Currently have 3 indoor units in each of the 3 rooms (1 x SAP-K97GS5A for master bedroom and 2 x SAP-K87GS5A for the 2 remaining bedrooms).

Budget about 3k, if can push to 2.7 or 2.8k will be good.

My house is the old 4-room simplified 84sqm one.

Any recommendations?
Hi,

There are brands that are below the 3k. Look for the 1. Brand, 2. Capacity and energy label ticks, 3. Noise and airflow, 4 Compare cost and adjust your acceptance on the above 1,2 and 3.

It is difficult to recommend as each individual buyer has different selection criteria.

The above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful.
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Old 17-12-2016, 10:00 AM   #8958
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To batuchka,

LG think have 5 years full warranty.
Good to read the terms and conditions of the warranty before buying. If not wrong, 2nd year onward labour and transport not free. Now LG has promotion.

Last edited by dachee; 17-12-2016 at 10:09 AM..
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Old 17-12-2016, 11:21 AM   #8959
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Hi,

1. Depending on HDB rules and regulations. They may have current restriction. If allowed by HDB to have addition power point, then yes, you can get an electrician to add another one with new wiring from the DB. He cannot tap it from the existing air conditioner power point. Some air conditioner installer also provide such services.

3. It is not the length of time that you use the air conditioner. A 2 ticks is less efficient than a 4 or 5 ticks. Meantime that you pay more for using the 2 ticks than the 4 or 5 ticks for the same period of usage.

4. Good to hear that.

The above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful
hi dachee,

1. just checked my unit.. only has one powerpoint for the compressor. but my ID has told me we can add another one just that it will be exposed wiring from the electrical cabinet to the aircon ledge. not sure if we should do the additional powerpoint now even though we are not buying two compressors for now. u have any advice?

3. i thought 5 ticks will take longer time to cool down and 2 ticks take shorter time? i only need the room to cool down then i can switch off the aircon. so basically wouldn't i be using a shorter time with 2 ticks and a longer time 5 ticks?

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Old 17-12-2016, 12:08 PM   #8960
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hi dachee,

1. just checked my unit.. only has one powerpoint for the compressor. but my ID has told me we can add another one just that it will be exposed wiring from the electrical cabinet to the aircon ledge. not sure if we should do the additional powerpoint now even though we are not buying two compressors for now. u have any advice?

3. i thought 5 ticks will take longer time to cool down and 2 ticks take shorter time? i only need the room to cool down then i can switch off the aircon. so basically wouldn't i be using a shorter time with 2 ticks and a longer time 5 ticks?

Hi,

1. In my opinion, the additional power point will affect your decision on the type of system you need, ie either two condenser (containing the compressor and other parts which form the outdoor unit) or one condenser.

As your ID is not an authorized person in regards to the approval of the power point, it is still good to confirm it in writing with the relevant authority.

This is because once you decide to install two condensers but one first at this moment and to find out later that another power point is not approved, you will not be able to install another condenser.

Once you have a written reply that an additional power point is acceptable, then doing it now or later (assuming that your renovation is already over) does not matter. However, if you renovation is still in progress, than you may be able to hide the wiring behind cornices instead of exposed trucking.

2. There is not evidence that suggest that a 2 ticks takes a shorter time to cool the room than a 5 ticks. But from the specifications, the amount of energy that a 2 ticks uses is more than a 5 ticks for the same amount of heat removed from the room. This is confirmed by their COP rating.

In addition, the time it takes to cool the room would depends on your temperature setting, fan speed, as well as your body temperature and moisture in the room and on yourself. The 5 ticks seems to have higher airflow than the 2 ticks, cooling the room faster.

However, if rate of cooling the room is that important to you, taking a short shower is a cheap alternative to feeling cool and you will likely feel much cooler when you are in the air conditioned room as it is cooling down. In this way you can offset the price for electrical with water, which is less costly.

Switching the air conditioner on and off may cost more to run than having it running at a set temperature. You can check this out by doing an experience.

The above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful.

Last edited by dachee; 17-12-2016 at 12:29 PM..
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Old 17-12-2016, 12:16 PM   #8961
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Excellent advice dachee!
Used to do such servicing and installation two decades ago during attachment period. Wish I remembered all that.

I did notice some of the mentioned steps taken, but I couldn't be around all the time to check.

Daikin system 4 successfully installed yesterday. Hope it's installed well.

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Old 17-12-2016, 12:32 PM   #8962
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Thank you Dr Vijay.

Noticed that the Internet search indicates that 410A low pressure line is about 115-120psi, however it was confirmed by Mitsubishi technical support that it should be 120-160 psi.

Last edited by dachee; 17-12-2016 at 12:36 PM..
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Old 17-12-2016, 01:10 PM   #8963
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StarMex has 2, 3, 4 and 5 ticks. Depending on the model.

In my opinion, don't install air conditioner in your living room. Unless you have a special reason for doing so, you will unlikely use it. Like you mentioned earlier: "haven't turned on my Samsung aircon for a good 5++ years now."

So you would likely need a system 3, system 2+1 single split or 3 single splits. All these depend on the power points that you have the approval to install and the price of the units combination as well as technical factors.

Had spoken to some installer about quality workmanship but it all boils down to profit margin.

In my opinion select the price including installation that you are happy with (in most cases, the lowest is better). Before placing order have the seller agree that the installer will do the following which I had posted previously.

In addition to the below, I had also insist that the installer glue the ends of the insulation tubing to each other rather than just taping it. However, I provide the special glue which the installer does not have.

During the installation of your air conditioner equipment by your contractor, it will come to a time when the gas pipes are to be connected to the condenser and the gas in it will be released to operator the system.

At this stage, there are 4 simple checks that you can do to ensure that your system will last you a long time and avoid expensive repairs.

1. Before the installer connects the gas piping to the condenser and FCU, check that he purge the piping IF he had done brazing on that line. Normally, a "good" installer will pump nitrogen into the pipe while he braze the pipe to ensure that the inside surface of the pipe does not for copper oxide that will affect your system. More information can be found here: http://www.rses.org/assets/rses_jour...4_Nitrogen.pdf

However, if you are using new pipes, than there should be no brazing and only flare fitting joints are used unless installer "screwed up"!

2. After the installer connects the gas pipes to the condenser, he is required to vacuum the pipes to remove air and moisture inside it. NOTE that the DURATION of vacuuming is 15 mins or more. Many installer will do it for a very shot period or 5 mins (some don't even do it), specially when you don't time them. Proper vacuuming is important to protect the compressor, other parts as well as for effective cooling and for leak check.

3. After the 15 mins of vacuuming, the installer will have to close the low pressure manifold gauge valve (to make it easier for readers, look for the blue gauge and blue knob on the manifold gauge) and shut off the vacuum pump. AT THIS MOMENT, take a photo of the blue gauge focusing on the gauge pointer reading. Then wait for 1 to 2 mins and take another photo of the same gauge. Compare the position of the gauge pointer. If the position of the pointer has changed, even for a slight amount, is a sight of leaking some where in the piping or the manifold gauge tubing. The installer has to rectify this issue and redo the vacuum all over again. If this is not comply, you cannot confirmed that your system will not leak in the next 3 months time, one year time or even 2 years time when your warranty is over.

4. After the above point 3 is done accordingly, and the system is running, ask the installer to apply some soap and water solution over the service valve at the condenser to confirm that there is not leaking. If soap bubbles start to grow bigger at the valve, it is a sight that some thing there is leaking. The installer needs to rectify this and redo the soap leak test again.

The above are common practices that installers will normally skips from the manufacturer's installation requirements but can be very costly for you in future. Some installer may even argue with you for doing this, so get the understanding and agreement from the dealer that you purchase the system from that you want these steps to be done.

The above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful
thanks dachee! you are really gem in this thread.
we decided to stop using the Samsung aircon because they kept leaking (despite multiple servicing) and the cost of usage (think it wasn't a very energy efficient model)

hopefully, the new aircon unit would be much better. probably would use the 5-star Starmex?
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Old 17-12-2016, 01:37 PM   #8964
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thanks dachee! you are really gem in this thread.
we decided to stop using the Samsung aircon because they kept leaking (despite multiple servicing) and the cost of usage (think it wasn't a very energy efficient model)

hopefully, the new aircon unit would be much better. probably would use the 5-star Starmex?
Hi,

Air conditioner leaking water has a few definite causes, depending on where the leak is.

Leaking from the FCU can likely be caused due to:

1. Choked drain pipe - this can be caused by dirty FCU as well as slime forming in the pipe. You can use a balloon airblower (pump) or convert your vacuum into a wet vacuum with a 2 litres pet bottle to blow or suck out the slime (clog). Never vacuum water into your dry vacuum.

2. Water condensation on conduit, flooring or ceiling due to poor or deteriorated drain pipe insulation. If the pipes are exposed, replacing the insulation would help. If it is concealed, try to run alternative piping (with proper insulation) rather than to work on the existing pipe.

3. Water condensation on the body or louvers of the FCU as a result of wet air from the toilet or frequently opened door. Proper placement of the FCU is important to avoid such problem.

People normally shower with warm water in the toilet and if this humid air from the toilet is allowed to be in contact with the FCU cool body, water condensation can happened. It is common to see FCU placement just outside toilet door in HDB layout.

4.1 Water leaking from the air conditioner piping due to water condensation can be a result of insufficient refrigerant. OR

4.2 as a result of deteriorated piping insulation. You can change the insulation at a cost of $1.50 to $2 per six foot run. Special glues are available to joint them together or you can get those double sided adhesive insulation.

5. If your FCU freeze up, you are sure to have low in refrigerant. You need to check for leakage before topping up. You can do it yourself if your condenser is located at a safe place to work.

Above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful.
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Old 17-12-2016, 02:13 PM   #8965
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FINALLY I CAN CHANGE AIR CON!!

MITSUBISHI~ IM COMING FOR U~~
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Old 17-12-2016, 02:22 PM   #8966
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FINALLY I CAN CHANGE AIR CON!!

MITSUBISHI~ IM COMING FOR U~~
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Old 17-12-2016, 04:56 PM   #8967
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Hi Dr Dachee

Wanna install extra aircon unit in my room

Current setup is 2 units at separate room connected to a single compressor.....

The compressor is in my room.... not sure abt the BTU or model of my compressor.... but if really need to, I can check so that more advice could be given....

Any contractor for recommendation to check the next step to install the extra unit and quote?

Pls pm me....
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Old 17-12-2016, 05:26 PM   #8968
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Hi Dr Dachee

Wanna install extra aircon unit in my room

Current setup is 2 units at separate room connected to a single compressor.....

The compressor is in my room.... not sure abt the BTU or model of my compressor.... but if really need to, I can check so that more advice could be given....

Any contractor for recommendation to check the next step to install the extra unit and quote?

Pls pm me....

Hi,

Instead of pm you let us communicate openly so that other readers can benefit from the exchange.

Do let me know if I missed understood you.

You currently have 2 FCUs (indoor units) connector to a condenser (outdoor unit). Right?

If so, such arrangement is normally called a system 2.

Normally the condenser ( the outdoor unit that house the compressor and other operating parts) are installed outside the house. Why is your condenser inside your room? Did I get it wrong here?

If you need to install another FCU in another room (ie the 3rd room), than you would need to have another condenser connected to the new FCU, meaning you need a single split (or sometime called system 1), unless your current condenser is a system 3.

To install an addition single split, it will depend whether a new power point can be installed. This will then depend on whether your house is a HDB or private. If it is a HDB, you will have to check with HDB on whether you can have 2 power points.

If it is a private property, you can get an electrician or the air conditioner contractor to install a new power point for you.

If your current air conditioner is a system 3, you can just connect it to a new FCU without the need to buy another condenser but this new FCU must match the current condenser. You need to check with the contractor for a matching FCU.

Hope that I have answer your question.
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Old 17-12-2016, 11:30 PM   #8969
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dachee.

May I have your opinion on the following York model. system 3.

http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/en_sg...iciency-series

YCHMXC009 x3 FCU
YCHMY021 x 1 compressor.

Actually already paid deposit for this model. but still wish to listen to some honest opinion.
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Old 18-12-2016, 12:20 AM   #8970
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Hi,

Instead of pm you let us communicate openly so that other readers can benefit from the exchange.

Do let me know if I missed understood you.

You currently have 2 FCUs (indoor units) connector to a condenser (outdoor unit). Right?

If so, such arrangement is normally called a system 2.

Normally the condenser ( the outdoor unit that house the compressor and other operating parts) are installed outside the house. Why is your condenser inside your room? Did I get it wrong here?

If you need to install another FCU in another room (ie the 3rd room), than you would need to have another condenser connected to the new FCU, meaning you need a single split (or sometime called system 1), unless your current condenser is a system 3.

To install an addition single split, it will depend whether a new power point can be installed. This will then depend on whether your house is a HDB or private. If it is a HDB, you will have to check with HDB on whether you can have 2 power points.

If it is a private property, you can get an electrician or the air conditioner contractor to install a new power point for you.

If your current air conditioner is a system 3, you can just connect it to a new FCU without the need to buy another condenser but this new FCU must match the current condenser. You need to check with the contractor for a matching FCU.

Hope that I have answer your question.
Thanks for the post.

Apologize for the confusion, the compressor is installed outside of my room.

Current living in a 4rm HDB flat.

Any reco for contractors to determine which option should I be getting?
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