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Air conditioning - Any recommendations please??

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Old 10-01-2017, 09:45 AM   #9226
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Hi,

Any recommendations on how high the FCU should be? My current FCU is just below the cornices...

Thanks.
In my opinion, 8ft from the floor is the preferred height. Too height would mean that you are cooling hot air (near the ceiling) that is not needed to help to comfort you.

Cooling unhelpful volume of air is not cost effective.

However, if you have a long room and high capacity FCU, than it make sense to have it higher as you need the air to reach the furthest end of the room. Such selection of a single high capacity for a large room would not be as cost effective as having 2 lower capacity FCUs appropriately placed (8ft from the floor) in the large room to provide immediate cooling to the desired areas.

Hope that the above are helpful.

Last edited by dachee; 10-01-2017 at 09:50 AM..
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Old 10-01-2017, 09:51 AM   #9227
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In my opinion, 8ft from the floor is the preferred height. Too height would mean that you are cooling hot air (near the ceiling) that is not needed to help to comfort you.

Cooling unhelpful volume of air is not cost effective.

However, if you have a long room and high capacity FCU, than it make sense to have it higher as you need the air to reach the furthest end of the room. Such selection of a single high capacity for a large room would not be as cost effective as having 2 lower capacity FCUs appropriately placed (8ft from the floor) in the large room to provide immediate cooling to the desired areas.

Hope that the above are helpful.
Hi Dachee,

Thank you for the advice. Will highlight this when they come for installation.
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:43 AM   #9228
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Hi Dachee,

Thank you for the advice. Will highlight this when they come for installation.
Hi,

Other points to look out are:

1.Check for system leak:
1.1 Ensure that they vacuum the system for each FCU for 15 mins,

1.2 Then hold the vacuum for 1 to 2 mins to check for leak (the pointer in the manifold gauge should not drop) when the vacuum pump is turned off. if the pointer shifted from original position, it is a sign that there is leaking in the piping somewhere. The source of the leak must be identified and rectified and above steps and 1 and 2 repeated. You may wish to take a photo when the pump is just turned off for comparison.

1.3 When there is no sign of leaking, the gas in the condenser will be released into the system (piping) and the service valve caps tighten. Provide the workers with some soap solution to be place over the service valves to check for leaking.

Do this for each FCU.

2. Check that one continuous new pipe is used for your system unless it is more than 15m. Check this before the workers insert the pipes into the insulation.

3. Check that all bends are either done by pipe bender or pipe bending spring. If you suspect that this is not done, cut the across the insulation at one end of the bend and pull it back to expose the copper pipe at the bend to check whether the pipe is kinked or not. Kinked pipe is not acceptable. It is good to inform the seller that kinked pipe is not acceptable when they start work and that in the even of a kinked pipe, the whole length of pipe need to be change. The cut insulation can then be either glue back with special glue like Superlon Insultaion Adhesive ( you can do an internet search, about $6/1L tin) and tape over with duct tape, this is a preferred method or duct tape the insulation back. Duct tape is used by the contractor but not all contractors carry the insulation adhesive.

4. If you are buying the insulation adhesive, it is good to ask the contractor to glue all the insulation tubing ends to ends instead of just duct tape them together which the contractor normally do.

5. When the FCU is installed, it is normally installed at a slight tilt (slant) to allow for water drainage. But this tilt must not be obvious to the eyes. If the slant is too much, the worker need to rectify this.

6. Another area to check is when all are done, check that the cooling fin in each FCU are not damaged.

7. Ensure that the condenser is mounted to the floor.

8. When all is done, run the system/s with all FCUs and look out for abnomal sound or blinking at the FCUs. There is no harm asking the contractors any questions that you have.

9. Check that all outdoor wall opening are sealed.

The above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful.

Last edited by dachee; 10-01-2017 at 10:46 AM..
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Old 10-01-2017, 02:06 PM   #9229
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Hi,

Other points to look out are:

1.Check for system leak:
1.1 Ensure that they vacuum the system for each FCU for 15 mins,

1.2 Then hold the vacuum for 1 to 2 mins to check for leak (the pointer in the manifold gauge should not drop) when the vacuum pump is turned off. if the pointer shifted from original position, it is a sign that there is leaking in the piping somewhere. The source of the leak must be identified and rectified and above steps and 1 and 2 repeated. You may wish to take a photo when the pump is just turned off for comparison.

1.3 When there is no sign of leaking, the gas in the condenser will be released into the system (piping) and the service valve caps tighten. Provide the workers with some soap solution to be place over the service valves to check for leaking.

Do this for each FCU.

2. Check that one continuous new pipe is used for your system unless it is more than 15m. Check this before the workers insert the pipes into the insulation.

3. Check that all bends are either done by pipe bender or pipe bending spring. If you suspect that this is not done, cut the across the insulation at one end of the bend and pull it back to expose the copper pipe at the bend to check whether the pipe is kinked or not. Kinked pipe is not acceptable. It is good to inform the seller that kinked pipe is not acceptable when they start work and that in the even of a kinked pipe, the whole length of pipe need to be change. The cut insulation can then be either glue back with special glue like Superlon Insultaion Adhesive ( you can do an internet search, about $6/1L tin) and tape over with duct tape, this is a preferred method or duct tape the insulation back. Duct tape is used by the contractor but not all contractors carry the insulation adhesive.

4. If you are buying the insulation adhesive, it is good to ask the contractor to glue all the insulation tubing ends to ends instead of just duct tape them together which the contractor normally do.

5. When the FCU is installed, it is normally installed at a slight tilt (slant) to allow for water drainage. But this tilt must not be obvious to the eyes. If the slant is too much, the worker need to rectify this.

6. Another area to check is when all are done, check that the cooling fin in each FCU are not damaged.

7. Ensure that the condenser is mounted to the floor.

8. When all is done, run the system/s with all FCUs and look out for abnomal sound or blinking at the FCUs. There is no harm asking the contractors any questions that you have.

9. Check that all outdoor wall opening are sealed.

The above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful.
Hi Dachee,

Noted on this.

I noted that that point 7: Ensure that the condenser is mounted on the floor. My block is an old block so i am installing a stainless steel bracket. Anything to look out for, for these types of installation of condenser on bracket??

Thank you.
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Old 10-01-2017, 02:17 PM   #9230
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... with special glue like Superlon Insultaion Adhesive ( you can do an internet search, about $6/1L tin)...
Google doesn't seem to turn up any search results. Is there a local shop that stocks Superlon insulation adhesive?
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Old 10-01-2017, 02:48 PM   #9231
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Google doesn't seem to turn up any search results. Is there a local shop that stocks Superlon insulation adhesive?
You can try :

http://www.asiaticgroup.com.sg/group...ll_tubing.html

http://diyappliances.com.sg/product/...ive-3-36-lt-6/

Pls call them first for price and stock before going down.
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Old 10-01-2017, 09:23 PM   #9232
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My aircon broke down after 15years.

I would like to replace it.
Should I also replace the trunking pipes as well?
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:38 PM   #9233
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My aircon broke down after 15years.

I would like to replace it.
Should I also replace the trunking pipes as well?
Yes, Good to replace the piping.

Likely that you would need to change the trucking with the new piping.
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Old 13-01-2017, 05:15 PM   #9234
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Anyone knows where to get aircon filters, odor and anti bacterial cleansing strips for Mitsubishi HI?
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Old 13-01-2017, 11:52 PM   #9235
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Anyone knows where to get aircon filters, odor and anti bacterial cleansing strips for Mitsubishi HI?
Hi,

Have you tried the manufacturer's spare parts department?
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Old 14-01-2017, 09:55 AM   #9236
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Hi, I would like to install 3 aircon for my bedrooms with size of 173,165 and 149 sq ft. What is the recommended BTU? Thanks!
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Old 14-01-2017, 04:40 PM   #9237
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Hi,

173sq ft can get 9k / 12k.
The other 2 rooms 9k is sufficient.
I presume ceiling height is ~10 ft.


Hi, I would like to install 3 aircon for my bedrooms with size of 173,165 and 149 sq ft. What is the recommended BTU? Thanks!
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Old 14-01-2017, 07:37 PM   #9238
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Hi, I would like to install 3 aircon for my bedrooms with size of 173,165 and 149 sq ft. What is the recommended BTU? Thanks!
Hi,

You can use the following link to check the Btu/hr required for a specific room size in ft or m. and in the different in degree C which you would like the room to cool down to (for example, room initial temperature is 30 degree C and you wish to cool the room to 20 degree C, then the difference is 10 degree C (30-20 =10).

You can select the insulation condition as normal unless you have window/s or wall that is facing the afternoon sun, or have kitchen as part of the room.

http://www.calculator.net/btu-calculator.html

From the calculator, all your rooms are below the 9k Btu requirement, even if you run it at 20 degree C. Normally, room temperature is set at 25 degree C, which is already cold and with proper placement of the FCU (fan coil unit), the cold air from the FCU can be directed to the selected area providing effective cooling even at room temperature setting of 26 - 27 degree C (some even have temperature setting of 28 degree C). With proper placement of the FCU, it does not need to have the whole room cool down before you feel comfortable.

In additon, with the inverter now available in most air conditioner, the compressor is able to provide continuous cooling at different capacity (coolness), thus avoiding the very cold and warm cycle encountered with the old, on/off-compressor air conditioner when you are blown directly from the FCU.

The above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful.

Last edited by dachee; 14-01-2017 at 10:09 PM..
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Old 15-01-2017, 02:02 PM   #9239
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anyone uses "Cold Engine" to install your aircon? received an attractive quote below:

Mitsubishi starmex system 3 - $2850 (after discount $2700!)

MXY3A28/MSYGE10 x 3

Daikin inverter system 3 - $2950 (after discount $2800!)

3MKS71FSG/FTKS25DVM x 3

** Note: Above price is for 1 storey HDB/BTO

Stardard piping materials without upgrade
1. 16mm pvc drainage pipe with 7/8 inch thickness armaflex/K-Flex insulation.
2. 23g copper pipe with 3/8 inch thickness armaflex/K-Flex insulation.
3. Keystone/Sigma 3 core 40 & 70 wire.


Warranty
1. Compressor 5 year (Dealer warranty)
2. Other parts 1 year for (Dealer warranty)
3. Workmanship 1 year (Installer warranty)



New Year Promo 2017 Package

** $150 discount for System 3 /$200 discount for System 4
** Free Site Survey
** Free 1 trip installation
** Free upgrade to G22 copper pipe (Thickness and Hardness gas piping)

** Free upgrade to half inch Armaflex/K-Flex Insulation for copper pipe.

** Free dimantle and disposal old set aircon
** One time ac-hoc general servicing with special rate for no units of install within 1 year- $20 per unit.
** One time ac-hoc chemical overhaul with special rate for no units of install within 2 year- 30% discount

per unit (Price different base on BTU)
** No hidden cost (Nett Price)
** Promotion while stock last.
** $100 deposit payment upon job confirmation.$900 payment upon piping installation. Rest of payment is

COD upon completion of job (Cash or cheque payment acceptable)



Optional:

1. Additional top up $150 for 15amp power power point

2. Additional top up $200 for 20amp isolator

3. Additional top up $150 for stainless steel bracke (If no existing bracket or existing bracket too small and not suit for new condenser)

4. Additional top up $40 for angle bar for existing bracket too big

5. Additional top up $50 for 2nd trip.
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Old 15-01-2017, 08:06 PM   #9240
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anyone uses "Cold Engine" to install your aircon? received an attractive quote below:
Hi,

Price is one factor to consider, however, the quality of workmanship is an even more important factor. It is therefore important to buy from a dealer who accept the appropriate key check points in the installation process of the whole system.

Poor installation practices can damage a new product and the consequent can only be realized many a few years later.

Above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful.
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