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Air conditioning - Any recommendations please??

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Old 25-04-2010, 01:52 PM   #1306
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seriously i must say my new mitsubishi is super cold sia....yesterday nite sleep with 26 degree throughout the nite, i am shivering in the mid of sleeping........
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Old 25-04-2010, 02:02 PM   #1307
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brand new aircon is like that. the performance should be good.

http://forums.vr-zone.com/chit-chatt...x-air-con.html
same brand aircon also got many diff users encountered good and bad experiences.
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Old 25-04-2010, 02:05 PM   #1308
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brand new aircon is like that. the performance should be good.

http://forums.vr-zone.com/chit-chatt...x-air-con.html
same brand aircon also got many diff users encountered good and bad experiences.
yup, lucky mine no prob SO FAR............
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Old 25-04-2010, 02:29 PM   #1309
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jialat, if set to 21 deg celsius on the remote and leave it on the whole night can reach this temp or not? or is the lowest it can achieve around 23 deg C only?

i think my old daikin non inverter is better than his inverter mitsubishi
wa..serious arh? u can tahan 21 degrees?

later how many blanket also no use.


Hi all,

Any one using Panasonic Inverter multi-split CU-3S27JKZ?

When you set your room temp to may be 25degC, fan speed to auto, does your fan coil fan in the room keep cutting in (on) and then out (off, not blowing any wind at all)? I check with Panasonic and they say it is like that. This is unlike my previous Toshiba where the fan continues to run even at the set temp and the temperature of the air coming out is very constant.)

Panasonic advised me to put the fan speed to high or med. This solve the fan stop running problem. However, the temperature of air blowing out from the fan coil can range from 15degree to 25 degree. Is it normal?

Also, it looks like the outdoor compressor keeps cutting in and out, unlike what they say at "low running speed".

I check with someone who has a single split Panasonic Inverter and it does not operate like that (fan speed auto, temp set 25deg and once temp reach, the fan still runs and cool air still coming out from fan coil.)

Is the air con something wrong? Any comment?

Thank you.
the compressor normally will slow down to a certain speed to maintain the temp. but if the slowest speed, the temp also able to cool down further, than the compressor will cut off.

for the fan on the fcu tat gets cut off, i tink u shld knw the ans ler ba.



jialat, like that got any tests or checks that you can make them do after installation to ensure its working fine? not based on cold enough or not as that is quite subjective
most of them will likely to on all the fcu, than tell u tat when there is water drip out of the drainage pipe, can switch off liao. but u shld also go "feel" the fan coil is cold. i mean go touch. but dont yrself cut if u slide against the coil.

but of cos during the installation, they shld use a bender to helps prevent pipe from bending in on thicker gauge pipe or gas pipe for living room/big room.



can share how you repair the affected area?
buy new insulation foam and replace?
thank.
u can try to c which area got sweating formed(sometimes u can c it after a few hours). than circle tat part wit a pencil, or make a marking.

than when the aircon is not running, open the trunking up. identify the area where sweating occurs, feel where is the part of the copper pipe tat is pop out, use both thumb of yr hand on the pop out part, the rest of the finger hold the side part. slowly push it in.

*for the liquid pipe, u can bend it in n can feel the bend.
but on the gas pipe, its thicker, so sometimes u hav to use alot of force.

therefore u ensure tat the "pop out" part becomes straight, i mean not totally straight. as long as the copper pipe is not pop out against the cover of trunking.

u can get some insulation foam to cover the "flat" part. or cut it out n replace it, but u hav to use tape to tape it. make sure no air can get in.
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Old 25-04-2010, 03:42 PM   #1310
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chunlianghere thank for sharing.

anyone got idea where can buy Insulation Adhesive Tape like above? how much does it cost?
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Old 25-04-2010, 03:55 PM   #1311
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jus use those cloth tape will do. looks like very wide in width, easy to tear(will tear in straight line). the tape like got thread one.
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Old 25-04-2010, 04:02 PM   #1312
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jus use those cloth tape will do. looks like very wide in width, easy to tear(will tear in straight line). the tape like got thread one.


you mean this type of cloth tape rite? but these dont have insulation effect rite?
any way the insulation foam you mention what are they?
how then look like? can get from where? use styrofoam can?
thank.
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Old 27-04-2010, 04:13 PM   #1313
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was thinking about changing to the panasonic aircons cos have the e-ion air purifier which can be turned on without the cooling. but is it comparable to a dedicated air purifier in terms of performace?
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Old 27-04-2010, 05:10 PM   #1314
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was thinking about changing to the panasonic aircons cos have the e-ion air purifier which can be turned on without the cooling. but is it comparable to a dedicated air purifier in terms of performace?
even mitsubishi also got the function what..............
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Old 27-04-2010, 05:16 PM   #1315
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even mitsubishi also got the function what..............
have to say panasonic leaflets were more appealing, didn't noticed the mitsubishi one. but as air purifiers, do they perform well enough for the extra cost?
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Old 27-04-2010, 06:35 PM   #1316
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have to say panasonic leaflets were more appealing, didn't noticed the mitsubishi one. but as air purifiers, do they perform well enough for the extra cost?
I dun think so, dedicated one will confi
rm be better
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Old 28-04-2010, 09:54 PM   #1317
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(A) Follow existing configuration, ie. 3 rooms (System 3) and Living/Dining (System 2). This technician reasoned that this configuration saves on servicing as (given my usage style) I need only to service more frequently on the outdoor unit of System 3 than outdoor unit of System 2.

This configuration will saves energy. But power wise, one condensor to support 3 fancoils.

(B) System 3 (Living 12k, Guest 9k, Study 9k), System 2 (Dining 12k, Master 12k). This technician reasoned that this configuration enables both outdoor units are more evenly utilised, which is better in the long run.

This configuration will be more powerful.
Cos u usually on ur living/dining in the evening. Rooms in the night. So 2 compressor will be working @ any given time = more energy consumption.
thanks terumo for your comments, appreciate it!

i got similar quotes from GC and NC for ME Starmex. which would you go for in terms of installation quality? i don't mean to slime any company, just want to hear honest experiences. thanks
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Old 04-05-2010, 01:44 PM   #1318
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Hi,

Need some advice from you guys.. The story is such:
Roughly 2 years ago, I got my aircon from Hong Tar. They did the installation and everything was ok.
Then earlier this year, the aircon was not cold so we call them down for servicing.
They reported that the condensor was all choked up and need a chemical wash. Total damage was $200+ for chemical wash and $180 for gas top up (reason being R410A gas is more expensive).
After one month plus, the aircon is not cold again. So we call them down to check and they reported that there could be gas leakage.
They top up the gas and ask us to monitor.
After another month or so, the aircon is not cold again. This time, they say they need to do a pressure test that would cost $380. This is not including any repair cost.

My questions are:
- Could the chemical wash have caused the leakage? If not, what could have caused a gas leakage?
- What other options do I have now? Do you have any trust worthy aircon company to recommend?
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Old 04-05-2010, 02:19 PM   #1319
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Hi,

Need some advice from you guys.. The story is such:
Roughly 2 years ago, I got my aircon from Hong Tar. They did the installation and everything was ok.
Then earlier this year, the aircon was not cold so we call them down for servicing.
They reported that the condensor was all choked up and need a chemical wash. Total damage was $200+ for chemical wash and $180 for gas top up (reason being R410A gas is more expensive).
After one month plus, the aircon is not cold again. So we call them down to check and they reported that there could be gas leakage.
They top up the gas and ask us to monitor.
After another month or so, the aircon is not cold again. This time, they say they need to do a pressure test that would cost $380. This is not including any repair cost.

My questions are:
- Could the chemical wash have caused the leakage? If not, what could have caused a gas leakage?
- What other options do I have now? Do you have any trust worthy aircon company to recommend?
got any 2 copper pipes joined together in to any of yr rooms?
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Old 04-05-2010, 03:38 PM   #1320
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To my understanding, chemical washing or washing is needed regularly "IF" you have did it before. For gas leakage, usually it not due to washing but due to piping compromised during top up gas. Eventually, I do know that there is never a need to top up if you never did before. Gas wont leak unless you had damage piping or compressor or in case of takedown washing.

New air-con system nowadays doesn't need much washing eg. full takedown or chemical washing. Only need to do cleaning filters and general vacuuming. But once you had any full washing did before eg chemical washing... you will carry on half yearly washing is needed.

In any event for "top-up" gas, insist no need and ask them not to touch your piping or compressor. During Chemical washing or water pipe clearing, don't need to touch the compressor piping. (copper)

Basically, usual charge for chemical wash per blower is $40 ($80 for system 2) or $20 for non-chemical wash ($60 for system 3). Never ever let them touch your copper piping or your compressor.

They can easily loosen and compromise the sealing of copper pipe (gas pipe) due to lousy workmanship, not usually on purpose which in turn gas will leakage and thus more servicing needed. I learn all these from repairmen who does my office AC system. Home AC system for gas top for invertor is truly more expensive BUT if installation is done by reputated company - unlikely leakage and no top-up gas needed even for non-invertor.
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