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Air conditioning - Any recommendations please??

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Old 06-05-2010, 10:20 PM   #1336
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is it really true that buying aircon during hot months of year more ex than during cooler periods like year end?
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Old 06-05-2010, 10:38 PM   #1337
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is it really true that buying aircon during hot months of year more ex than during cooler periods like year end?
not tat true ba... price of daikin at fairprice xtra stil the same price..
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Old 11-05-2010, 12:04 AM   #1338
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Went to Gain City Seng Kang just now.

Was quoted 2812 for ME inverter. 150 for steel bracket

320 for power point with certification by HDB and 190 for power point without certification by HDB. Anyone heard of this before?

Is the amount quoted above fair? Seems quite ex...
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Old 12-05-2010, 10:23 AM   #1339
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compare them yourself.
i aiming the panasonic too..newer model and seems like with the latest inverter technology.

http://coolserve.com.sg/htmdocs/prod...ls.asp?id=2495

the model is Panasonic CU-3S27JKZ / CS-S9JKZW X 3 8,530Btu/hr
Gain City $2799 with GST
cheapest quotation from the amk shop EverJoint, around 2.5k with G23 copper pipe and 3/8'' armaflex.
want thicker need to top up $$.
oo.. this is a very good comparison. any changes / updates on new models?

* now at pg 30... 50 more page to go. hehe.*
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Old 12-05-2010, 11:14 AM   #1340
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oo.. this is a very good comparison. any changes / updates on new models?

* now at pg 30... 50 more page to go. hehe.*
mitsubishi pwned all brand down deep deep...........
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Old 12-05-2010, 02:22 PM   #1341
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I just completed my chemical wash for my system 3 at $120 nett last thurs. I think I will be changing new service company soon. He is kinda dishearted to do my AC servicing already.

I can easily tell by his response as he insist on top-up gas at $300+ while I insist not to after the chemical wash.

Initially I though he is right for refrigderant insufficient but I'm confidence myself. 1st night, blower was clear but not cooling as its used to be. Recently past Sunday till now, i feel that my AC system is back at full cooling power at "Auto Cool mode: 25C". Usually I prefer to standardise the AC at that mode. Most $$$ saving bah i think.

Any where higher fan mode or lower degree, I will think the AC need servicing. Now I think back what if I let service guy for the top-up? Will it be a waste of $300?

Every initial servicing - approach new AC company, the service usually better but sooner if you keep regular just plain chemical wash for $120 only, they get slacken.

Why I insist not for the top up? My AC was cooling just the blower was jammed, chemical wash clear the dirt and jammed, plus I make sure he doesn't touch my Condenser in any way.

IMHO, prefer to approach bigger established AC service company. Those with bigger ads or website which stated their pricing. Always keep a record of receipt and service report every time to remind you how much/when you did ur last servicing.

My AC fren told that if no service report or reciept with official company stamp, its usually freelance at work using their company equipments to earn extra buck. Those are the black sheep in AC servicing market so dun fall into their trap.

Some common sense just needed if any guy working from full time AC service company, you usually call their HP in their name card. After service, no report or receipt, he just earn additional by claiming his leave or off day or MC. So do you think employee will be so hardworking for company by asking for more servicing stuff eg. top-up gas, takedown etc etc. I in my stand prefer to do whats require and finish, pack up and go home. Why I ask for more work and help company to earn more while I take home monthly regular paycheck? Unless I the shareholder of the service company lah which is unlikely because I opt ed for more well established company.

Last edited by gentoro; 12-05-2010 at 02:28 PM..
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Old 12-05-2010, 10:30 PM   #1342
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Some do get commissions too.
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Old 15-05-2010, 11:07 PM   #1343
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hey guys want to ask u....

how long does it takes for ur aircon to hit 25 degree celsius based on normal outdoor weather (after sunny day at nite)....

my mitsubishi inverter MSY-GE10VA - 8500BTU took abt 15-20 mins average to cool down my own room temp to 25 degree, is it normal? but in terms of coldness it is very cold enough at 25 degree.... and i am shivering at nite as i on the aircon overnite....

and i try to set the aircon at a lower temperature says 22 degree, it is then like taking much more longer time to drop 3 more degree.... is it normal???

and i installed the same model of aircon in my parent's room which is slighly bigger (master bedroom) today, but the same aircon takes abt 40mins comparing to my room,does it mean the aircon of 8500BTU is under power for my parent's room size?? but it stills manage to cool down to 25 degree and running at half load....


Last edited by Innocast; 15-05-2010 at 11:22 PM..
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Old 15-05-2010, 11:16 PM   #1344
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I just completed my chemical wash for my system 3 at $120 nett last thurs. I think I will be changing new service company soon. He is kinda dishearted to do my AC servicing already.

I can easily tell by his response as he insist on top-up gas at $300+ while I insist not to after the chemical wash.

Initially I though he is right for refrigderant insufficient but I'm confidence myself. 1st night, blower was clear but not cooling as its used to be. Recently past Sunday till now, i feel that my AC system is back at full cooling power at "Auto Cool mode: 25C". Usually I prefer to standardise the AC at that mode. Most $$$ saving bah i think.

Any where higher fan mode or lower degree, I will think the AC need servicing. Now I think back what if I let service guy for the top-up? Will it be a waste of $300?

Every initial servicing - approach new AC company, the service usually better but sooner if you keep regular just plain chemical wash for $120 only, they get slacken.

Why I insist not for the top up? My AC was cooling just the blower was jammed, chemical wash clear the dirt and jammed, plus I make sure he doesn't touch my Condenser in any way.

IMHO, prefer to approach bigger established AC service company. Those with bigger ads or website which stated their pricing. Always keep a record of receipt and service report every time to remind you how much/when you did ur last servicing.

My AC fren told that if no service report or reciept with official company stamp, its usually freelance at work using their company equipments to earn extra buck. Those are the black sheep in AC servicing market so dun fall into their trap.

Some common sense just needed if any guy working from full time AC service company, you usually call their HP in their name card. After service, no report or receipt, he just earn additional by claiming his leave or off day or MC. So do you think employee will be so hardworking for company by asking for more servicing stuff eg. top-up gas, takedown etc etc. I in my stand prefer to do whats require and finish, pack up and go home. Why I ask for more work and help company to earn more while I take home monthly regular paycheck? Unless I the shareholder of the service company lah which is unlikely because I opt ed for more well established company.
coolant will nvr reduce one, if it does, it shows that ur aircon pipe etc got leakage liao, this is totally due to the poor workmanship............
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Old 15-05-2010, 11:25 PM   #1345
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bigger room takes longer time, compare to smaller room. becos more air has to be cooled.

dont tell me u wan yr $$ to fly away jus to test can reach 22 deg. becos in such a hot weather, it can be impossible to reach, or very long. becos the wall, floor, ceiling also giving out heat.

try 22 deg is a colder weather.

as long as the air come out directly from the aircon maintain its temp(from the time u test when jus installed, n now), u're fine.
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Old 16-05-2010, 01:09 AM   #1346
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Hi,

I have been looking for a system 3 that is sufficiently powerful enough i.e BTU of 30,000 and above. Does anyone know why there is a difference between what is advertised by the air conditioning companies and that by the NEA database?

For example, Mitsubishi Electric MXY-4A38VA advertises at 38,000 BTU but on the NEA website, it is only 9.01 Kw/h (multiplied by 3412) which is equal to 30,742 BTU.
Similarly, Toshiba's RAS-4M26SACV has it at 34,000 BTU while on the NEA website, it is only 7.59 Kw/h = 25,897 BTU.

I have been using a Mitsubishi Electric inverter air conditioner for the past 6 years and have not been happy with its cooling capabilities since day 1. Agreed, dropping to 25 degrees is nothing but I like my rooms cold so at least 22 degrees but have never seem to been able to achieve that. Am happy that I can finally change.

Anyone have any recommendations? I've been consistently pushed Mitsubishi Electric and Daikin. Also, it seems in forum that the preferred installer is Gain City's. Would be great if there are any other recommendations.

Many thanks!
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Old 16-05-2010, 05:18 AM   #1347
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bigger room takes longer time, compare to smaller room. becos more air has to be cooled.

dont tell me u wan yr $$ to fly away jus to test can reach 22 deg. becos in such a hot weather, it can be impossible to reach, or very long. becos the wall, floor, ceiling also giving out heat.

try 22 deg is a colder weather.

as long as the air come out directly from the aircon maintain its temp(from the time u test when jus installed, n now), u're fine.
ic....thanks for the comment.........yesterday i really tried to set 22 degree from 25 degree.... it really took around 30mins or more to get to the degree.... then after that i did try 20 degree, more than 30 to 45 mins also nvr reach, give out....

testing the limit, becos i am using inverter aircon, in order to save electricity, the temperature must be able to reach, else the aircon will be always full load also, becos the inverter aircon only works half load if the temperature has reached....if cannot save work half load at all, the inverter aircon is a waste of money....though inverter full load is still lower than non-inverter in term of electricity consumption...

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Old 16-05-2010, 06:16 AM   #1348
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Hi,

I have been looking for a system 3 that is sufficiently powerful enough i.e BTU of 30,000 and above. Does anyone know why there is a difference between what is advertised by the air conditioning companies and that by the NEA database?

For example, Mitsubishi Electric MXY-4A38VA advertises at 38,000 BTU but on the NEA website, it is only 9.01 Kw/h (multiplied by 3412) which is equal to 30,742 BTU.
Similarly, Toshiba's RAS-4M26SACV has it at 34,000 BTU while on the NEA website, it is only 7.59 Kw/h = 25,897 BTU.

I have been using a Mitsubishi Electric inverter air conditioner for the past 6 years and have not been happy with its cooling capabilities since day 1. Agreed, dropping to 25 degrees is nothing but I like my rooms cold so at least 22 degrees but have never seem to been able to achieve that. Am happy that I can finally change.

Anyone have any recommendations? I've been consistently pushed Mitsubishi Electric and Daikin. Also, it seems in forum that the preferred installer is Gain City's. Would be great if there are any other recommendations.

Many thanks!
i think what the manufacturer advertised prob the IDEAL max BTU....while NEA one i supposed is tested average BTU as close to reality??? just guessing only... But I believe NEA database info should be trustable....

yesterday i tested my ME starmex inverter for my room, can hit 22 degree, just take longer time. my parent's room same unit takes really longer time to hit even 25 degree though the room is just slighly bigger... personally like mitsubishi becos it is really quite quiet for both indoor or outdoor unit....

and looks like slightly bigger room 8530BTU unit for ME is not enough to cool down the a master bedroom very efficiently even at 25 degree, as i mentioned it took 40-45mins to reach the degree.... think master bedroom needs really higher BTU unit at least those within 1.5HP range...in fact, i calculated my parent's room size before deciding on the aircon units, but looks like although BTU within the aircon's cooling capacity, but still take long time to cool down...i think next time i would buy unit with BTUs more than my room size cooling capacity. especially if buy inverter aircon, e.g. 1HP room buy 1.5HP aircon, at least can cool down faster, and can hit the set temperature easier, else inverter always run at full load also is not going to save electricity....

for me i like cold personally too. i can tahan without close to 1x degree of weather in ang mo country during autumn without the need of extra clothing...but looks like aircon the coldness even 25 degree i find it is too cold for me, even with comforter, i still feel cold and shiver at the mid of the nite.

my aircon are still new, less than 1 mth....

I think ME and Daikin are both the famous brand which is purely focusing on aircon business, in terms of technology or reliability should be ok.....and i do believe these two brands can really save electricity.....comparing to any other brands, i hab not received the electricity bill to confirm on this, but from NEA website, i can see ME and Daikin aircons (inverter and non-inverter) are the most electricity savings brand, especially ME.. that's the reason i chose ME also, becos electricity tariff will raise every year, and quite a lot also, in long run, it will really save it...

DID ur ME inverter aircon managed to save u money for electricity bill over the 6 years? what HP of aircon u use for ur common room and master bedroom? 1HP or 1.5HP?

but in terms of coldness (from my so many research online), i always heard other brand like york, sharp can cool the room and the coldness is good but consumes a lot of electricity and the units are very noisy....especially york....

LG is like CMI one, nvr consider....

toshiba, forum ppl say is can cool down fast also, and windblow is strong, electricity consuming wise ok average, design ok. but i hab not tried before, and it looks like in asia countries like sg, thailand etc, ME or Daikin are more popular. while toshiba likes not a hot brand in aircon...

for panasonic, same brand as national. national was known to be long lasting brand for the electronic appliances last time. can use for more than 10 years no prob. so in terms of durability, i think panasonic is ok. and their design are quite trendy, stylish comparing to other brand, and the fan blade is different design from the rest of the brand, which can move from bottom to up, meaning if u are directly below the aircon, can still feel the airflow while comparing to my ME, meaning the air flow can be 90 degree downwards....

my ME aircon, i can totally nvr feel any airflow, even i am just under the aircon directly, becos my study table is just directly below. but of course on my bed i can feel airflow no prob, becos I position the aircon directly opposite and facing my bed.. so sleeping time is always very cooling even at 25 degree.

I heard a lot of feedback saying that panasonic aircon cannot cool down room fast. takes time....but panasonic one comes with more functions, like air purifying etc.. but heard ppl say all these function on a aircon are all crap, they just got two pieces of thin filter inside for such function only, and need to change the filter often. and ppl said best to get aircon with dedicated feature only, meaning the main job cooling the room only, those with those special functions one, once any of the function breaks down, costs more money to fix and maintain...

Outdoor unit i think the built for Panasonic is not very good also comparing to ME, heard made of plastic only, and it is noisier, while ME is made of metal...

Fujitsu one, average performance but more problematic i heard.....


Out of so many brands, i still prefer ME, personal preference only... though the design of aircon for ME and Daikin are most normal one, unlike LG/panasonic design nicer...

but next time i will take oversize BTU units for rooms, at least can cool down faster, and oversize at least better than undersize....though consume a bit more electricity....
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Old 16-05-2010, 10:22 AM   #1349
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Hi Innocast,

Thank you for your inputs. Appreciate that you took the time for a long response.

On the cooling capacity, it is what really works that matters. With all this advertised above its working capacity, it feels like being sold a 1.5l car for a 2l car. For ME, the difference is a lot, almost 8000 btu.

My old ME is using 8k, 8k, 12k configuration and I believe BTU was 24k which was the highest 6-8 years ago. It is not cold enough and we have the fan on at the same time. The lower noise also meant that the blower at the indoor units are not as powerful. That was what the installers said when I complained. And with me having to have the fan on as well, any other air conditioner will be quieter...haha....

Hence, looking to get one that will be much higher than the 24k BTU and going for 8k, 12k, 18k. I am not sure if there was any savings when I changed to inverter. My main consideration was that it must be able to cool the room sufficiently and the inverter options had the higher BTUs.

Currently, ME has the highest advertised BTU at 38k, Toshiba at 34k and I think Sanyo at 33k. But in NEA website, ME and Sanyo's at about the same at 30k and Toshiba at 26k.

I also realised that none of these are new models. They have been around for almost a year or longer. After my experience with ME, I am reluctant to buy another ME. I am ok with only using 3 indoor units on a System 4 as long as I can get it cold enough. But no sales person has been able to explain how energy saving that would be or if I can get the full cooling capacity of the condenser.

I've actually called up each of the distributors and honestly, customer service in Singapore sucks. ME and Daikin offered some decent information but Sanyo just informs that they don't have stock and don't even know when they will have it.

Do you have any recommendations for dealers? I have gotten two quotations so far but they seem higher than what is advertised on Cool Serve's website and in one instance just totally ignored what my demands were.

Many thanks!
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Old 16-05-2010, 10:30 AM   #1350
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Invertor full load is higher then non-invertor full load.
Mit invertor sys 3 full load can hit > 9 amp.
Mit non-invertor sys 3 ard 8 amp.
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