Where to tailor clothes =D - Part 2

[darthsid11111]

The hem area looks a little strange I think. From the side it looks ok but from the front it looks like it's floating and seems to be completely separate from your shoes. Not sure how to describe it....

Could it be the way the hem is cut? What you're trying to say it the hem doesn't fall nicely on the shoe?

Why don't you take better photos so that the pants are shown in the best light (pun intended)? Unless of course you are happy about the pants, then retaking pictures will not be worth the extra effort. Being happy is more important.

TBH I believe that this is the best I can get already for the price that I'm paying. But it's always good to hear opinions so that I may work with the maker to inprove on my future commissions.

As for taking the picture in a better light.. We'll see if the opportunity arises!

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[jimbb80]

Is that the standard cut from Sze Sze? I was about to try them but now I am a bit worried tbh.

Everyone has different tastes but personally I find the pants:

Too Short - nowhere near the bottom of your shoe in side profile

Too baggy below the ass - your calves are big so maybe it was done on purpose to make the pants look sort of proportional.

Crotch area looks extremely baggy - looks like it goes all the way to your knees

Bottom of the pants in the front view seem misaligned - it doesn’t flow straight down and is like 2 inches indented inwards near your shoe.

Dont mean any offense by this just sharing some thoughts.

 

[jonleelk]

Could it be the way the hem is cut? What you're trying to say it the hem doesn't fall nicely on the shoe?

The hem needs to be either narrower or longer. The circumference of the hem should falls onto the shoes completely. From this angle, the circled part is "floating"

A better "no break" hem, IMHO

 

[jonleelk]

Too Short - nowhere near the bottom of your shoe in side profile

This length is "no break", the in thing nowadays.

Length touching the bottom of the shoe is the more conventional "full break".

Then, there is "half break".

 

[arcfire]

Could it be the way the hem is cut? What you're trying to say it the hem doesn't fall nicely on the shoe?

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Looks like the hem circumference might be too big. It gives the look like you're wearing jumpers with an elastic hem. The hem looks inproportionately smaller than the rest of the pants. I think that's what makes it look weird.

 

[darthsid11111]

Looks like the hem circumference might be too big. It gives the look like you're wearing jumpers with an elastic hem. The hem looks inproportionately smaller than the rest of the pants. I think that's what makes it look weird.

Ah, ok I see it now. Esp with Jon's illustration. So.. Narrower leg openings? That seems like it'll be easy to alter Also could the fact that the bottom two inches are cuffed and my natural inclination to have a forward lean have anything to do with how they ended up like that?



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[Ice.Ice]

No experience with this, but not all tailors will do that (cut, make, trim) and is it worth the hassle of sourcing your own fabric, when your tailor probably enjoys cheaper fabric prices due to economies of scale?

hmmm... icic.. true that~ guess i gotta head down to the shop to check it out. Any to recommend?

 

[darthsid11111]

The hem needs to be either narrower or longer. The circumference of the hem should falls onto the shoes completely. From this angle, the circled part is "floating"

A better "no break" hem, IMHO

Jon, does this mean I need to get a narrower leg opening? I have very bad posture, and have quite a pronounced forward lean. I believe one of the things Matt did mention when cutting my pants is that he will cut the hems on a bias with the front being longer than the rear so that it will fall nicely on the shoe. That should apply here as well right?

Also, if the hem is narrowed does that mean the calves and thighs need to be cut smaller so that there isn't any awkward tapering?

Is that the standard cut from Sze Sze? I was about to try them but now I am a bit worried tbh.

Everyone has different tastes but personally I find the pants:

Too Short - nowhere near the bottom of your shoe in side profile

Too baggy below the ass - your calves are big so maybe it was done on purpose to make the pants look sort of proportional.

Crotch area looks extremely baggy - looks like it goes all the way to your knees

Bottom of the pants in the front view seem misaligned - it doesn’t flow straight down and is like 2 inches indented inwards near your shoe.

Dont mean any offense by this just sharing some thoughts.

To give some context, the pants are high rise, single pleat, with 2-inch cuffs. So it was made to my specifications. If you have your personal preference for the way your pants are cut I'm sure Mr Ong will be able to accede to your request.

With regards to length, I think jon hit the nail on it's head with his explanation..

I think the crotch looks that way in-part due to very poor lighting and also because I have a massive posterior and thighs. No thigh gap, single pleated, non-slim cut pants make the whole crotch area blend together.

The bottom two inches are the cuffs! That's why it doesn't drape as compared to the rest of the pants. But I think other members have mentioned there's another issue with the cuffs.

No offence taken, constructive criticism will help me improve my future commissions!

 

[darthsid11111]

hmmm... icic.. true that~ guess i gotta head down to the shop to check it out. Any to recommend?

If you indicated the type of clothes that you are looking to tailor as well as a budget I'm sure you will get some recommendations. For my money I would recommend Sze Sze as a good, low cost option to start off.

but my pair of trousers from them are currently under blast so.

Sze Sze at under $1oo for both shirt and trousers (per piece/in-house fabric)

 

[jonleelk]

Looks like the hem circumference might be too big. It gives the look like you're wearing jumpers with an elastic hem. The hem looks inproportionately smaller than the rest of the pants. I think that's what makes it look weird.

Bro arcfire nails it! The pants look like army No. 4 bottom with gutters!

Bro darkness, u cannot just make the hem slimmer without adjusting the whole pants such that it is a straight line down from hip to hem. Min size of the hem is to be the same as the calf (eg I have a 15" calve, thus my hem min is 15", such that it is >15" at calf area).

And if u over slim the calve, please make sure u don't squart (aka bluebird).

If cannot slim down the top part, I think the pants will look nicer if u make the hem wider such it is a straight line, and then make the pants longer so that the circumference sits completely onto your shoes.

 

[darthsid11111]

Bro arcfire nails it! The pants look like an overall bottom.

Bro darkness, u cannot just make the hem slimmer without adjusting the whole pants such that it is a straight line down from hip to hem. Min size of the hem is to be the same as the calf (eg I have a 15" calve, thus my hem min is 15").

And if u over slim the calve, please make sure u don't squart (aka bluebird).

Headache ****. I must talk to Mr Ong about this for my next commission. Doesn't seem like an easy fix, if I want to retain the same dimensions for thighs through calves. Because anything slimmer is actually a wee bit too snug for my liking.

Also, I'll go back and measure my hem and knees to see if the measurements are the same!

 

[jonleelk]

Headache ****. I must talk to Mr Ong about this for my next commission. Doesn't seem like an easy fix, if I want to retain the same dimensions for thighs through calves. Because anything slimmer is actually a wee bit too snug for my liking.

Also, I'll go back and measure my hem and knees to see if the measurements are the same!

In my edited post:

If cannot slim down the top part, I think the pants will look nicer if u make the hem wider such it is a straight line, and then make the pants longer so that the circumference sits completely onto your shoes.

And eh.... your knees bigger than your calf?

 

[darthsid11111]

In my edited post:

If cannot slim down the top part, I think the pants will look nicer if u make the hem wider such it is a straight line, and then make the pants longer so that the circumference sits completely onto your shoes.

And eh.... your knees bigger than your calf?

Oh ****, ya I meant to say my calves. I think altering longer isn't an issue. But altering the hem wider.. Is that a simple alteration to make?

 

[darthsid11111]

I think Matt is stalking this thread. This image of a high waisted, pleated navy trouser just went up on his FB.

I highly doubt I'd be able to fit into trousers cut with those proportions though.

DISCLAIMER: I have no personal or business affiliations with Kay-Jen other than a client business relationship.

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[darthsid11111]

If you have the time, wear both pants from Sze Sze and Kay-Jen. Take pics of both pants - front and back and side. Should give you some conclusions from this exercise. And probably tell you where the value is.

The pants I posted aren't mine! I just stole them from his FB!

But I do understand where you're coming from, Kay-Jen's pricepoint for a similar article of clothing is over 100% markup and I can't find a comparable alternative.

 

[yswrox]

I think Matt is stalking this thread. This image of a high waisted, pleated navy trouser just went up on his FB.

I highly doubt I'd be able to fit into trousers cut with those proportions though.

DISCLAIMER: I have no personal or business affiliations with Kay-Jen other than a client business relationship.

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This is a near perfect fit imo. I hope to get all my pants to fit me as such in due time.

I have a pair of pants from Matt as well. The cutting is similar but I think it's a bit loose around the thighs...But considering it was one of my first pair done with him, pretty good. I'll post a picture later, I happen to be wearing them today.

 

[darthsid11111]

This is a near perfect fit imo. I hope to get all my pants to fit me as such in due time.

I have a pair of pants from Matt as well. The cutting is similar but I think it's a bit loose around the thighs...But considering it was one of my first pair done with him, pretty good. I'll post a picture later, I happen to be wearing them today.

Shouldn't your D&S pants already fit you similarly!

Typically how many fittings do you go through with D&S before receiving the final product?

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[jonleelk]

I think Matt is stalking this thread. This image of a high waisted, pleated navy trouser just went up on his FB.

I highly doubt I'd be able to fit into trousers cut with those proportions though.

DISCLAIMER: I have no personal or business affiliations with Kay-Jen other than a client business relationship.

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That's a nice no-break hem.

 

[darthsid11111]

Yes it is quite delicious isn't it? Matt takes great care in drafting an individual pattern for his customers and it shows..


Now that he has a MTM programme I'm not sure if such results can be achieved?

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[yswrox]

Shouldn't your D&S pants already fit you similarly!

Typically how many fittings do you go through with D&S before receiving the final product?

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I would like to think so but I would rather let a 3rd party confirm it.

Don't wanna say all my pants look like this then share and become laughing stock!

Now? No fitting at all, same measurements I just try upon collection. There's only been tiny adjustments over the years, things like: looser around the waist, belt fasteners instead of belt loop, coin pocket on the right, slightly shorter in length etc etc...

I find that I must wear the item a few times before I can pinpoint on what to improve, I'm not good enough to simply stare at the mirror and pick out what needs to be changed.