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BBCWatcher

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Hi bbcw, do u think the market will drop further
Should I consult my Magic 8-Ball? :)

Stock markets always have some volatility, so probably at some point in the future valuations will be lower than they are at this instant. But that's not guaranteed, and, even if so, how much lower, and when, are completely unknown and unknowable. Moreover, stock markets pay some dividends along the way, but only to actual shareholders.
 

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Yes, although there are likely better U.S. broker choices, especially for an IRA which would be your first vehicle if you have U.S. earned income.

With a J-1 you can also (eventually; see below) open a TreasuryDirect account if you want to buy U.S. Savings Bonds and/or U.S. Treasuries. You can also open excellent bank and/or credit union accounts and even obtain great credit cards, even with no credit history, such as the Deserve EDU credit card. (Remember to set it up for AutoPay.) In fact, you can apply for the Deserve EDU card even if you don't have a SSN or ITIN yet.


Most do, but J-1 visa holders are generally eligible to obtain U.S. Social Security Numbers. You should get one if you're eligible, and you should start the process just as soon as you arrive. Once you have a SSN, it's yours for life.

This has been extremely helpful. I have a few follow-up questions.

1) Since I'll be a PhD student in the US this Fall, I'll also be receiving a stipend of over $20,000 USD per annum. This, I believe, is also taxable right? Of course, I'll get more details from the school once I've firmed up on which offer I intend to take.

2) Notwithstanding, I intend to return to Singapore after 5 years. Given that the bulk of my yearly stipend will go towards paying rent + living expenses, I imagine I'll only accord ~ $2k a year for investing. Therefore, it'll only amount to approximately 10k after 5 years.
Therefore, my question is whether or not it is worth the hassle of opening a US-based online broker account, have it for 5 years, and then close it and transfer my holdings to a Singapore-based online broker (since I imagine there'll be fees and hassle involved)? Since it's only ~10k over 5 years, I imagine the commissions saved won't really be that huge of a sum, since I'll be only buying (and holding) once or twice per year. Therefore, maybe it might seem prudent to circumvent all that and just open an IBKR or Saxo account here, and then wire in USD directly while I'm there. Thoughts?
 

BBCWatcher

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This has been extremely helpful. I have a few follow-up questions.

1) Since I'll be a PhD student in the US this Fall, I'll also be receiving a stipend of over $20,000 USD per annum. This, I believe, is also taxable right? Of course, I'll get more details from the school once I've firmed up on which offer I intend to take.
Yes, that'll be U.S. taxable and perhaps also state and local taxable. You'll have at least 14% (US$2,800) of that amount withheld in tax, and then you'll settle up final taxes due (or refunded) with an IRS Form 1040NR tax filing, plus state and local equivalents if/as applicable.

2) Notwithstanding, I intend to return to Singapore after 5 years. Given that the bulk of my yearly stipend will go towards paying rent + living expenses, I imagine I'll only accord ~ $2k a year for investing. Therefore, it'll only amount to approximately 10k after 5 years.
Therefore, my question is whether or not it is worth the hassle of opening a US-based online broker account, have it for 5 years, and then close it and transfer my holdings to a Singapore-based online broker (since I imagine there'll be fees and hassle involved)?
First of all, if you have earned income then a U.S. tax advantaged retirement account will likely be attractive. And that you won't close when you leave the U.S. Second, no, you don't have to close your U.S. account. If you open an Interactive Brokers IBKR Lite account, for example, you'd just keep that when you move back to Singapore since Interactive Brokers serves residents of both countries. It's perfectly reasonable to keep useful/valuable U.S. accounts that make sense. There are some fabulous U.S. credit and ATM/debit cards, actually, even for residents of Singapore.

Since it's only ~10k over 5 years, I imagine the commissions saved won't really be that huge of a sum, since I'll be only buying (and holding) once or twice per year. Therefore, maybe it might seem prudent to circumvent all that and just open an IBKR or Saxo account here, and then wire in USD directly while I'm there. Thoughts?
Interactive Brokers particularly makes sense because of IBKR Lite, available to U.S. residents. I believe you'd be eligible, even on a J-1.

But just see how it goes. There are no particular fees or minimums with many U.S. financial institutions. If you see a good deal and want to keep it, fine, no problem. There's no charge to keep a TreasuryDirect account as another example, so why not? In other posts I've mentioned several good (or better) U.S. deals.

Overall the United States is a "consumer's paradise," really.
 

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Overall the United States is a "consumer's paradise," really.

Agreed, after 5 years of enjoying what will be the best the world has to offer in many ways, you will not want to give that up so easily.

My wife who is not a US person and is a Singapore PR did a 5 year stint in the US back in the 1990’s and today she still has a valid US state drivers license, she has a US credit score above 800 and she has several US accounts and credit cards.

On our last trip to the US she got a 70,000 mile signup bonus with Delta Amex, which also got us free checked bags on domestic flights. On the trip prior to that she got a $500 sign up bonus on Capital One Venture card, among others.

The old saying “only in America” still rings true today.
 

BBCWatcher

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My wife who is not a US person and is a Singapore PR did a 5 year stint in the US back in the 1990’s and today she still has a valid US state drivers license....
Let's just be careful here. Many states don't allow non-residents to keep driver's licenses, although South Dakota is a popular exception (as I understand it, last I checked -- see here as an example).

Also, Singaporean citizens and PRs cannot drive in Singapore on a foreign license at all. Some foreigners can, but only for a limited period of time.
 

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Let's just be careful here. Many states don't allow non-residents to keep driver's licenses, although South Dakota is a popular exception (as I understand it, last I checked -- see here as an example).

Also, Singaporean citizens and PRs cannot drive in Singapore on a foreign license at all. Some foreigners can, but only for a limited period of time.

She has a Singapore DL as well, in fact she also one from her home country too!

In my state (probably most others) you have to declare and show evidence of state residency when you first apply for a license, but not for renewals (every 4 years).

If the last renewal was in person you can renew once by mail. Online renewals are also possible, but for US citizens only. Last time she renewed in person there was just an eye test, she had to rattle off her SSN which she still remembers, and no change in address (my parents).

Having a state DL can make it easier to open accounts in the US. I think that is the main benefit, now that it’s no longer possible to fly with one (at least not one that is REAL ID compliant). I guess it can save the hassle of applying from scratch again in the future. She also has a spotless driving record!
 

BBCWatcher

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In my state (probably most others) you have to declare and show evidence of state residency when you first apply for a license, but not for renewals (every 4 years).
Yes, I understand mechanically how it may hypothetically work in many states. I'm simply pointing out that legally most states don't allow non-residents to maintain driver's licenses, and so of course we don't recommend that anyone violate the law. South Dakota is one exception I know of, and there may be others.
 

celtosaxon

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Yes, I understand mechanically how it may hypothetically work in many states. I'm simply pointing out that legally most states don't allow non-residents to maintain driver's licenses, and so of course we don't recommend that anyone violate the law. South Dakota is one exception I know of, and there may be others.

You could be right, I honestly have no idea. I suspect many if not most US expats are in violation in that case. My company actually instructs US employees working abroad to use our company’s US address for renewing their license! I guess if the state was serious about it they would make everyone certify that they are still resident upon each renewal (since they do explicitly ask the first time).

I suspect the intent of the law is to stop someone from having two state DLs at the same time, since some would abuse that and keep driving while one is suspended, etc.

My state is hostile toward illegal aliens and have enacted laws within the last 10 years to prevent them from getting licensed in the first place. Those lucky enough to have one already should be fine, but that could change anytime.

I noticed that many states make clear exceptions for members of the military who are deployed abroad - not sure why they wouldn’t extend this to any state resident who moves abroad, especially if they are working for an employer in that state.
 

BBCWatcher

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You could be right, I honestly have no idea. I suspect many if not most US expats are in violation in that case.
I'm highly confident laws are sometimes broken, but let's just point out the issue and encourage everyone to follow the law.

My company actually instructs US employees working abroad to use our company’s US address for renewing their license!
A company could hypothetically instruct its employee to shoot a competitor, but the employee is certainly legally responsible for his/her own actions. (The company could be, too.) Occasionally companies instruct their employees to perform illegal acts. That doesn't mean employees should comply with such instructions.

I guess if the state was serious about it they would make everyone certify that they are still resident upon each renewal (since they do explicitly ask the first time).
Maybe, but even if the state doesn't follow a particular renewal process the license holder bears the responsibility to comply with whatever state law is.

I suspect the intent of the law is to stop someone from having two state DLs at the same time, since some would abuse that and keep driving while one is suspended, etc.
Your spouse evidently has three licenses, so let's just not go there, OK? ;)

I noticed that many states make clear exceptions for members of the military who are deployed abroad - not sure why they wouldn’t extend this to any state resident who moves abroad, especially if they are working for an employer in that state.
Clear exceptions for military service members stationed overseas are not exceptions for other people.

One practical reason why clarifying this issue matters a whole lot is that, if there's an accident or incident while you're driving with a state license you shouldn't be holding, insurance companies (including rental car insurance) generally have the right to walk away from you, plus you're subject to criminal prosecution. And you can bet that the other side's attorney will also investigate the legal validity of your license.

Anyway, just be careful out there, OK?
 

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Hi BBCW, this is probably a stupid question, but how relevant are incoming/outgoing wire transfer fees for bank accounts? It seems like they don't have something like Singaporean banks' FAST transfer over there, and most (nearly all) bank accounts I've looked at charge $20+ for outgoing wire transfers (some even charge incoming!?). Given that, I'd assume most people would reasonably avoid wire transfers as a payment method (e.g. paying school fees, rent, splitting bills with friends)?
 

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BBC,

My wife believes she needs additional health coverage. She is a PR and has no integrated plan but I do pay $600/year to opt her into my employer plan, which includes group medical of $345 daily R&B up to 90 days, $7,000 surgical, plus pre & post for a maximum of $17,250 per disability, anything beyond that a group major medical rider kicks in, and that pays 80% of expenses beyond that, up to a maximum $25,000. Private hospital is the only option she would entertain.

Is there some kind of additional rider we could add? Alternatively I could boost my employer plan to $400 R&B, $8,000 surgery, maximum $20,000 and the rider then goes up to $40k, but it’s is kind of a pricey option, around $1,200 per year more.

Appreciate your expert advice.
 

BBCWatcher

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Hi BBCW, this is probably a stupid question, but how relevant are incoming/outgoing wire transfer fees for bank accounts? It seems like they don't have something like Singaporean banks' FAST transfer over there, and most (nearly all) bank accounts I've looked at charge $20+ for outgoing wire transfers (some even charge incoming!?). Given that, I'd assume most people would reasonably avoid wire transfers as a payment method (e.g. paying school fees, rent, splitting bills with friends)?
I think you're talking about the United States.

Wire transfer fees aren't particularly relevant at all, not domestically anyway. First of all, if you expect you might wire funds, try to find a U.S. bank or U.S. credit union account that doesn't charge an incoming wire transfer fee. There are some. Also, some U.S. brokers (and thus U.S. brokerage accounts), notably Interactive Brokers but also to some extent Charles Schwab, provide several inbound fund transfer accounts. With Schwab, for example, you can make a FAST or GIRO domestic transfer in Singapore of Singapore dollars to their custodial account in Singapore, and Schwab then automatically converts those funds to U.S. dollars and deposits the funds in your Schwab brokerage account. The conversion rate is decent -- not as good as Interactive Brokers, but decent -- and there's no additional fee. Some U.S. brokers provide free wire transfers outbound, too, at least for certain clients.

OK, that said, here are the common ways people pay each other in the United States, not necessarily in order:

1. Credit and debit cards, and increasingly mobile payment options, are widely accepted. Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted, then Discover (which owns Diners Club, so your Singapore-issued Diners Club card works in the U.S. wherever Discover is accepted -- not that I recommend using your Singapore-issued Diners Club card in the U.S.) and American Express.

Credit and even some debit cards offer rebates or points, so they're great to use if you're a responsible consumer. Try to avoid using the card's magnetic stripe to pay for purchases. Chip readers are pretty widely implemented now, and the magnetic stripe readers are fading away.

You can set up almost every credit card for "AutoPay," which I highly recommend.

It's possible in the United States for almost everyone to get a credit card, even a pretty good one. That's because there are low limit and secured credit cards, and the market is so competitive that some of them still offer reasonable terms, including zero annual fee. I've mentioned some examples in other posts. There are even some children who manage to get credit cards.

If you use a debit card then, for safety, I suggest pairing it to a separate account that you keep at a low balance. Or, in other words, try to get a credit card (and set it up for AutoPay) since there's a little greater safety in that.

2. "BillPay," which is typically a free service that U.S. bank and U.S. credit union checking accounts provide. (Please avoid the few banks and credit unions that charge for this service.) This is pretty similar to what banks in Singapore offer and also analogous to AXS and SAM payment services, except online. However, BillPay takes it a big step farther: if the biller is not known to BillPay, no problem, BillPay can send a paper check with free postage. Of course that'll take a few days, but it works.

Please note that BillPay just sends the paper check (or electronic equivalent), not any notes or letters. So to let the recipient know what the payment is about, make sure you give BillPay the biller's/recipient's reference number and/or some other information. For example, when you want to pay a quarterly estimated U.S. federal income tax bill with BillPay, you can, but you need to make sure BillPay prints these two key pieces of information on the check:

a. Your Social Security Number (SSN) or ITIN.
b. "2020 Form 1040-ES"

The second line tells the IRS that it's a payment for the tax year 2020's estimated personal federal income tax, so they'll credit the payment toward 2020 taxes on the account referenced with the SSN or ITIN.

3. Your own paper checks are still fairly common if you want to pay somebody who doesn't accept a major credit or debit card. For example, you might be at a school charity event and want to donate some money, and so a paper check would still be a pretty typical way to do that, and it also maintains a paper trail in case it's a big donation and helpful for a tax deduction later on. Some banks and credit unions offer free paper checks, still. (I'm giving you some ideas how to comparison shop for bank/credit union accounts.) Many banks and credit unions now offer "mobile check deposit" service, which allows you to sign the back of the check you receive, take photos of the front and back using a mobile app, and deposit the funds. Some recipients don't accept personal checks but do accept more reliable checks, such as bank "cashier's checks" and "money orders," and some banks/credit unions offer free cashier's checks and/or free money orders. Walmart sells money orders for something like 70 cents.

Make sure you know how to fill out a paper check properly, per U.S. practices. There are plenty of online guides explaining the ins and outs. Don't rely on "postdating" a check.

Some U.S. banks, U.S. credit unions, and U.S. brokerages offer postage paid envelopes to mail in paper checks for deposit. Go ahead and request those envelopes (or at least ask) if you'd like some. The postage is free when you mail the envelope from anywhere the U.S. Postal Service serves, including overseas U.S. military postal stations.

4. Cash now represents less than 20% of transactions last I checked and isn't accepted everywhere, but it's still used to some extent. You'll often see cups of pennies and tip jars at retail establishments. The cups of pennies are there both to donate pennies that you don't want to keep and to help out someone (and the cashier) if you're paying in cash and need a penny or three to avoid breaking a bill. Tip jars are invitations to get rid of coins (at least) you don't want to keep. (Tipping is a whole other subject, though.)

One problem with cash is getting it, since ATM operators can charge whatever fees they want. However, there are at least two solutions. One is to do business with a U.S. bank or U.S. credit union that offers a large network of "fee free ATMs." These aren't necessarily the big banks, by the way. Plenty of smaller banks and credit unions have banded together and leverage fee free ATM networks such as "MoneyPass." You can then check a mobile app or online to find one of the fee free ATMs in their network. The other approach is to get an account with a bank, credit union, or broker that offers an ATM card with ATM operator fee rebates. Schwab and Alliant Credit Union are two such examples.

Depositing cash is getting rather hard in the United States, just as in Singapore. Practically all ATMs used to accept cash deposits, but now very few of them do. Try not to accumulate too much cash.

5. Barter. Not too common, but it happens once in a while.

6. "Instant" peer-to-peer (P2P) payment services such as Paypal, Zelle, Venmo, Apple Pay, and Google Wallet. Zelle is essentially like Singapore's PayNow. Stereotypically the cool/hip "Millennials" use these services, sometimes.

My wife believes she needs additional health coverage. She is a PR and has no integrated plan....
She has MediShield Life, but for PRs especially that's basically like a discount card, good for reducing a large hospital bill (in Singapore only) somewhat.

....but I do pay $600/year to opt her into my employer plan, which includes group medical of $345 daily R&B up to 90 days, $7,000 surgical, plus pre & post for a maximum of $17,250 per disability, anything beyond that a group major medical rider kicks in, and that pays 80% of expenses beyond that, up to a maximum $25,000. Private hospital is the only option she would entertain.
The employer's coverage is nice (and looks pretty typical of such plans), but it's not enough unless you're rather well off and can self-insure.

Is there some kind of additional rider we could add? Alternatively I could boost my employer plan to $400 R&B, $8,000 surgery, maximum $20,000 and the rider then goes up to $40k, but it’s is kind of a pricey option, around $1,200 per year more.
Well, the "private hospital is the only option she would entertain" criterion automatically raises the cost, significantly. And the cost delta between private and public will most probably continue to widen.

Would she be OK getting her hospital care specifically from Raffles Hospital if it looks like it might exceed your company-provided coverage? In that case, she could take a look at Raffles Shield Plan A with the Raffles Hospital Option and probably also their Key Rider, although the Key Rider is very arguable given the company coverage. This'd be the least expensive Integrated Shield coverage with private hospital care, but Raffles Hospital is the hospital -- that's the whole private network. (Plus all public hospitals in single/private rooms, including KK Hospital, which is only for women and children.)

Bear in mind that when you call a SCDF ambulance in Singapore ("995") you'll be taken to the nearest public hospital. If it's an emergency, that's where she's going, no choice. Hopefully she never has a medical emergency, but if she does, she'll get acquainted with the nearest public hospital.

Anyway, I think that'd be a good coverage combo: the company-provided coverage for "minor" stuff, backstopped with Raffles Shield A+Raffles Hospital Option (and maybe the Key Rider) for "big" stuff, and specifically/only at Raffles Hospital in that (non-emergency) event. It honors her preference in the most affordable way, and with good coverage. If she later decides that she no longer wants or needs the Raffles Hospital Option, that option can be dropped, and Raffles Shield A is among the best public hospital A ward Integrated Shield plans. Also, as it happens, Raffles Shield is running a promotion this month (March, 2020) that guarantees their current premium schedule for the next 3 years.
 

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Hey BBC, if I own some stocks/etf and using IBKR, is there any way I can loan them out for short selling or put them out as call options?

Tried google but can't find detailed steps
 

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Thanks BBC... you are like a fountain of information, and then some! I don’t know how you do it.

Let’s say she doesn’t agree to Raffles (she does tend to prefer Mount Elizabeth), what is the next best option? Or would it be better to look for critical illness cover for anything big?
 

BBCWatcher

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Hey BBC, if I own some stocks/etf and using IBKR, is there any way I can loan them out for short selling or put them out as call options?
You can certainly do the latter, but that can be quite perilous. Many types of options trades come with the possibility of mathematically unlimited losses.

Interactive Brokers offers a security lending program, and you can sign up for it if you wish, but I think it's only available for U.S. exchanges.

Let’s say she doesn’t agree to Raffles (she does tend to prefer Mount Elizabeth), what is the next best option? Or would it be better to look for critical illness cover for anything big?
To be clear, with Raffles Shield A plus the company coverage she could still go to Mount Elizabeth Hospital. She's allowed to file claims with both (company coverage first, Raffles Shield second) as long as the carriers know about the respective claims. Let's assume the whole medical bill is claimable -- no lobster or other fluff appearing as line items. OK, the company coverage provides whatever coverage it provides, up to its limits. Then, if there's still anything left to pay, she'd file a claim with Raffles Shield. Raffles Shield would look at the total Mount Elizabeth Hospital bill and immediately whack off 40% from consideration since the carrier applies a proration factor of 60%. Then it would run the rest of the bill through the rest of its claim calculations and pay a final amount.

In practice, this combination works well for "small" and "medium" bills at Mount Elizabeth Hospital. The company-provided coverage handles the initial amount, up to its limits, and then Raffles Shield A takes over. For "large" bills that exceed what the combination of policies covers, Raffles Shield A would then provide a hefty discount of very roughly 50%, but not a 90% discount. In other words, "dabbling" in Mount Elizabeth works for "routine" stuff, but for really expensive stuff, or for the next hospital visit within the same policy year, it'd be Raffles Hospital or a public hospital for better coverage. That's a pretty good way to think of it, actually: one "freebie" stay per policy year at Mount Elizabeth, preferably in a multi-bed ward to keep the costs under a bit more control.

If that's not good enough, the next step up in Integrated Shield plans is the top tier plan type, a full private hospital Integrated Shield plan. In alphabetical order the following carriers sell these plans: AIA, Aviva, AXA, Great Eastern, NTUC Income, Prudential, and Raffles Shield. I don't have a strong favorite among them, but I would note that these plan premiums can get pretty expensive (by Singapore standards) pretty quickly, so I think it's worth thinking about the possible "downgrade" options, specifically which carriers also have solid public hospital A ward plans. Raffles Shield has that quirky (in a good way) Raffles Shield A+Raffles Hospital Option step between a full private hospital plan and a public hospital A ward plan.

I'm a big supporter of Disability Income Insurance (DII), as you probably know. I'm less enthusiastic about Critical Illness (CI) insurance. I don't think CI makes much sense to plug possible medical insurance gaps because CI itself has lots of holes, and two sieves don't make a bucket. CI only pays anything when a specific, named risk event occurs -- and usually a one-time (not "multi-pay") payout. ("Multi-pay" is even more expensive.) I would much prefer just plugging the medical insurance gap ("one bucket"), and yes I do agree with her that she probably ought to have more than MediShield Life and the company-provided coverage.

She could consider getting a full private Integrated Shield plan, plus lowest cost rider, then completely drop the company-provided coverage. One advantage with the company-provided coverage is that it's group-based and doesn't exclude preexisting conditions, or at least such plans usually don't. It's not a whole lot of coverage, but "more than MediShield Life for a PR" is most helpful when it comes to preexisting conditions. But if she doesn't have preexisting conditions, then it could be best to push everything onto the private hospital Integrated Shield plan plus rider (plus MediSave, plus cash) and save the S$600/year premium.

There are "expat-style" medical insurance policies sold in Singapore. Pacific Prime specializes in such plans and makes them easy to compare online, so she could look at those, probably "just for fun." They tend to be very expensive, and they don't attempt to integrate with MediShield Life. I think PRs (and citizens) are generally better off with an Integrated Shield plan. That said, I've had such a plan in the past, and it was lovely, especially since I wasn't the one paying the premium. ;) Some of these international plans are comprehensive, directly handling certain expenses such as prescription drugs that Integrated Shield plans don't handle as such. Integrated Shield plans often cover prescription drugs, but they don't cover them as a separate, standalone matter. Integrated Shield plans are hospitalization insurance plans, really, with "hospitalization" fairly broadly defined. They're not really designed to cover years or decades of chronic disease management requiring an expensive prescription drug, although fortunately prescription drugs are broadly much less expensive in Singapore than in, for example, the United States.
 

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Let’s say she has a hospital bill of $100k. Presumably 100% the first $17,250 would be paid by group insurance, and then 80% ($25,000) of the next $31,250 would be paid by the rider.

Without any other insurance, for each dollar after $48,500 she could claim ‘something’ on MediShield Life, for simplicity, let’s say we can expect around $50,000 out of pocket.

But with Raffles Shield A, it would cover 60% ($31,500) of the $52,500 remaining balance, and our total out of pocket would be $26,250 on the $100,000 bill.

Is my understanding roughly correct?
 

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Let’s say she has a hospital bill of $100k. Presumably 100% the first $17,250 would be paid by group insurance, and then 80% ($25,000) of the next $31,250 would be paid by the rider.
I assume you understand your company-provided insurance better than I possibly could, so let's just assume that's all correct. It probably is.

Without any other insurance, for each dollar after $48,500 she could claim ‘something’ on MediShield Life, for simplicity, let’s say we can expect around $50,000 out of pocket.
Something like $40K, I'd guess. This is highly variable and depends on the surgical procedures. MediShield Life isn't nothing, but it doesn't go a long way for PRs in private hospitals, that's for sure.

But with Raffles Shield A, it would cover 60% ($31,500) of the $52,500 remaining balance, and our total out of pocket would be $26,250 on the $100,000 bill.
Not exactly. Without the Key Rider there's still a co-pay. So I think it'd be more like 50%, approximately. With the Key Rider, yes, 60% coverage is a good approximation.

Now, if she has Raffles Shield A+Raffles Hospital Option+Key Rider, then the company-provided insurance covers what it covers and there'd be 100% coverage for the remainder from Raffles Shield...but only at Raffles Hospital specifically, not at Mount Elizabeth Hospital.

Any unreimbursed hospitalization expense is generally MediSave payable, or at least a substantial part would be. Occasionally there are some interesting decisions to make about whether paying with MediSave is a good idea.
 

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Interest Rate Developments

Today CIMB has reduced their fixed deposit interest rates. If you're interested in a fixed deposit, you better hurry. Other banks are likely to drop their rates at any moment. Last I checked, Etiqa's ELASTIQ is offering 1.80% for 3 years, ICBC Singapore is offering 1.70% for a 12 month "Step Up" fixed deposit, and Maybank is offering 2.05% for a 36 month fixed deposit. The Singapore Savings Bond will still be available per normal this month, however -- but if interest rates are really low this month's SSB may be oversubscribed. The SSB is getting more and more interesting since it's a 10 year instrument.

Yes, we live in a weird interest rate environment at least right now. My sympathies to those of you sitting on too big cash piles, including many of our grandparents. ;)

U.S. mortgage interest rates have touched record lows. According to Freddie Mac, the 30 year fixed nominal rate hit 3.29% APR, and the 15 year fixed is all the way down to 2.79%. Yes, in the United States you can get a mortgage with a fixed interest rate for 30 years, not the mere 3 years fixed available in Singapore. Isn't that wonderful? It's especially wonderful now, with record low rates. Also, sometimes you can get a bit of a U.S. tax reduction since mortgage interest is tax deductible, although that's harder to pull off with rates this low and recent tax law changes.

Also, take a look at the Singapore Government Securities daily quotations, particularly the shorter term interest rates over in the T-bills. We're seeing a collapse in short-term Singapore dollar interest rates right now, which, if sustained, will slash bank interest rates in Singapore.
 
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BBCWatcher

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Here's an interesting idea if you're looking to park a few U.S. dollars as U.S. dollar interest rates seem to be collapsing. Unfortunately what I'm about to suggest is only available to those with U.S. TreasuryDirect accounts, but if you happen to have a U.S. Social Security Number (SSN) and U.S. mailing address you may be able to open a TreasuryDirect account. You will also need a U.S. bank or U.S. credit union account with U.S. dollars in the account.

The U.S. Series I Savings Bond ("I Bond") is looking more and more interesting at the moment. The current issue is available now and next month (April, 2020). You can buy up to US$10,000 per calendar year per SSN. (There's an awkward, exotic way to purchase another US$5,000 involving U.S. tax refunds, but that's very hard to pull off.) This is a real return bond. The current I Bond guarantees an interest rate that's 20 basis points above the U.S. Consumer Price Index (CPI-U) inflation rate. The interest rate is adjusted every 6 months to track inflation. These are 30 year bonds, but you can redeem them any time after a minimum 1 year hold. If you redeem an I Bond within 5 years of purchase then there's a 3 month interest penalty. If there is ever any deflation the I Bond will never deflate -- the worst it'll ever do is 0.0% for some period.

For comparison, the 30 year U.S. TIPS is reporting a yield of -0.22%. That's insane, of course. The I Bond is now 38 basis points better (+0.20% real yield).

I Bonds are general obligation debt instruments, issued by the U.S. Treasury. They are backed by the full faith and credit of the United States federal government, and consequently they are the world's safest vehicle for parking U.S. dollars. And they're particularly safe since the U.S. Treasury is guaranteeing a particular real purchasing power outcome with I Bonds, not a nominal one. For U.S. persons the interest is taxable (only upon redemption or maturity) unless the Savings Bond is used toward qualified educational expenses. For non-U.S. persons there's no tax on the interest, and there's no U.S. estate tax on them.

The deadline for buying this current I Bond is a couple business days before April 30, 2020. Placing a buy order on April 28, 2020, should be safe. It takes at least one overnight cycle for the U.S. Treasury to pull funds from your bank/credit union account and book the sale. As I recall the end of the month is the best time to buy since interest is computed back to the first day of the month of purchase.
 
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BBCWatcher

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Pondering a Decision Now

It looks like I might have the happy problem again of "too much" cash piling up. I'm considering another increase in the monthly amount I push into long-term investments.

I review this particular decision periodically, and whenever I think I can sustain a new, higher plateau of monthly savings, I increase the flow. Fortunately I've been able to maintain a steady monthly savings flow for (...checks calendar...) about a quarter century. (I started early.) No interruptions, no reductions.
 
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