Logitech z623 Review

wwenze

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Part -1: The whine



Troubleshooting:

- Buzzes when unconnected to anything
- No improvement when connected to phone
- Improves when connected to computer (Recorded in YouTube video above)
- No improvement from connecting signal ground to earth
- No improvement from using faraway mains socket
- No improvement from using a line filter (a.k.a. power condition in audiophilia terms)
- Headphone-out is okay (Has a bit in absolute terms, but not an issue in terms of SNR)

This is definitely self-generated noise for the most part.

Unfortunately I can't take it apart to repair since this is a new unit with warranty that I bought just to review and I prefer not to lose money in the process since I still need to sell the unit later. I'll throw it back to Lazada and see what they say. If this turns out to be normal due to design, sucks for the owners.

My recommendations:
- Use with a computer or other earthed sources
- Keep volume knob as low as possible, and never go past 12 o'clock
- Stay off-axis i.e. don't point them straight at you e.g. put them at the sides of a 24" monitor and pointing straight forward. The buzz is very directional.
- Heck, you might even want to toe-out a bit. This kills treble volume however.
 
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wwenze

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Part 0: Vs bass-boosted Usher S-520

Well if I'm going to return it to Lazada then I gotta act fast. I still have to compare it against R2000DB which is going to be more important since they are similarly-priced.

Still, I want to compare it against the sound I am used to and see where it falls short.

okd65n0.png


First impression is, the sound is actually pretty good. And that lasted for about 5 seconds until I realize the high frequency is just garbled up. And when I do a direct comparison with S-520, z623's treble in general is pretty off too. Not by a lot, but certainly worth minus-ing points.

But if you don't have anything to compare against, it has a pretty tolerable sound and relatively accurate. More accurate than Razer Leviathan definitely. It also has a bit of the type of sound I dislike on R2000DB, maybe slightly less of it? It will be interesting to put them against each other.

Vocals actually sounds sweet, albeit harsh in the upper frequencies.

And the key to the good-slash-tolerable sound is the frequency response from bass to mid. It actually nailed it pretty good. I was expecting peaky boom boom and nothing else because the internet only talks about the subwoofer and how good this speaker is for gaming, plus that is usually the sound from 2.1 systems. So what I heard was a surprise to me - The sound with default bass setting is actually just right. If I apply EQ to remove the 98Hz +15dB room boost, I need to adjust the bass higher to compensate the quantity. And even at max setting, the bass volume is not too much over the treble. But well, this depends on where you place the subwoofer anyway. And also because I run EQ; If you don't run EQ to remove room boost, then prepare to eat a huge peak at a certain frequency, which will result in the boom boom. Even though it's not the speaker's fault in this case.

The sub has a pretty good bandwidth and pretty flat across that bandwidth. Unfortunately I can't back that statement up with measurements because it is too hard to get one that actually reflects what I hear when you have sound coming from 4 different locations. (The subwoofer's woofer and port count as different sources located in different locations.)

The subwoofer is just a bit audible at ~33Hz and pretty usable down to around 40Hz. This is around 1 to 2 notes lower than the bass-boosted S-520. Not the best I expect from a 8-inch woofer, but can't complain at this price. And I would rather have this kind of sound over one that reaches low but is peaky to achieve that.

The subwoofer reaches pretty high frequencies, but this is needed because the satellites can't reach very low. The transition is pretty smooth, and I don't hear too much of the "frequency hole" that plagues 2.1 system because the satellites can't go low enough and the sub can't go high enough. Speaking of which, the satellites go pretty low for their size. Transition seems to start at around 200+Hz and the last audible note is around 125Hz.

Speaking of size...

EtsUHlH.png


Can anybody tell me what you find weird about the photo above?

Audioengine A2+ specs says a 2.75" woofer, although when I tried buying replacement woofer it turns out this size can be considered 3".

Anyway, the woofer in z623 is noticeably a size smaller than the A2+, despite taking up the same footprint. This is not a space-efficient design.

Back to talking about the sound...

Treble, this is the part that is hard to talk about. Let me just say again first, the overall sound is pretty decent, while the mid to low frequencies are good. Now, treble, the problem is these satellites are highly directional, so you can control how much treble quantity you want. Well, normally this isn't exactly a problem. But the complicating factor is that the treble is harsh, too. Exactly what you would expect from a full-range woofer trying to reproduce high frequencies without a tweeter. If I point it towards myself, I get more treble quantity, the sound is more defined, but it makes other speakers sound muffled. And it also sounds like metal rubbing against metal. And squeaky. Basically, the V is strong. Also, I find it quite hard to judge the treble and keep having to change my verdict, because the sound seems to depend on the music I play. Complicated passages slaughters it, but with simpler songs, the sound is actually pretty acceptable. In some cases it sounds ok, in some cases it sounds like a chipmunk squeaking.

And, if I point it straight forward instead of toeing-in, this sound is more consistent and closer to what I like. Treble quantity is around normal, but higher frequencies are noticeably missing. This results in me switching between toeing-in and not depending on whether I am in the mood for more sharpness, but I think the better long-term choice is to keep them pointing forward and put myself off-axis. I also tried increasing treble via EQ, but it doesn't do any miracle - The treble still sounds metallic.

Overall, z623 is pretty ok. It performs just nice enough for you to not want to upgrade if you haven't heard anything better before, but if you have heard something better then you would probably be wishing to upgrade. And "something better" is pretty much most things with a tweeter, but even then it can be hard to upgrade in terms of size and money, especially when the z623 does do the bass part pretty well.

So, the scoring.

The buzzing. = Not worth buying, or at least taking a severe hit in value. Because, c'mon.
Now, assuming the buzzing in your unit in your setup is acceptable for you, then,

Other 2.1 alternatives, I immediately think of Swan M10, M50W. (Edifier M3600D seems to have disappeared.)

M50W should win it easy. I did complain of satellite bass extension and how the sub was peaky, but now I have enough EQ and positioning knowledge to improve on both. And while I complained about the FR, I don't remember thinking it sounds weird or low-quality. With a bit of tweaking it should sound much closer to proper speakers compared to what z623 may achieve.

M10... I haven't heard it in my room, so I'm going to guess: 3" woofers + 0.75" tweeters should have no problem against smaller full-range woofers. Bass should be around that of a good bookshelf, while z623's bass is a tad better than that. I would choose good treble while sacrificing some bass extension. Of course, this assumes that the 3" woofer + 0.75" tweeters + that subwoofer actually perform like what I think they do, and I have been tricked by appearance before.

I think the problem is that Swans are too good for their price here, actually wait no, certain bookshelves brands are too good for their price here, and Swans 2.1s just happen to be rather bookshelf-y.

I would say, at the USA price of USD$99 or around SGD$135, the z623 is a pretty good choice, as the only dangerous opponent here is M10 and this is a price where it can trade blows with M10 - both have advantages and disadvantages over each other. Maybe a 4.5-star?

So let's calculate backwards - Each 0.5 star is worth 12.5% of price. If $135 is 4.5 star, then 4-star would be $150, 3.5-star = $175, 3-star = $200, 2.5-star = $230, 2-star = $269. Plus minus around $10.

Also this is where I find my star system may be inaccurate, because z623 should be no worse than Razer Leviathan yet the Razer Leviathan got a 3-star @ $300. Checking back, I valuated the Leviathan at $200. So I may have valuated z623 too low. But then I can't help it because M10 and M50W. Actually I think the main problem is M10. Or perhaps I valuated the Leviathan higher because of the features and the form factor.

Anyway, z623, at $269, definitely hard to justify. Current prices? Somewhat a possible candidate, and that is primarily because the market is so empty. Essentially this against M10, and the cheaper it gets during sales, the better.

I think the main fun is really going to be comparing it against bookshelves that are priced at the same price.
 
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LiLAsN

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I think the main fun is really going to be comparing it against bookshelves that are priced at the same price.

I fully agree with this. I am actually in shock at how great my Z906 speakers are. I replaced my entire HTS in my room with the Elac Debut 2.0 version including having to buy a receiver in the process.

Sound wise, the Z906 has great bass, mids and good highs. The only thing the Elac does better is hearing more higher pitches. And with the help of the receiver after mic calibration, a wider soundstage. But that is about it.

In a small bedroom like mine, the Z906 surprisingly does an extremely fantastic job in playing the tones from the lows all the way to the highs. Like it literally rivals the Elac speakers in creating the sounds. What can I say.

But I do suspect my burn-in and de-magnetizing album that I've used over the years for new audio equipments plays a large part in helping the speakers to shine as I can clearly hear the improvement from slightly muddy sounds being produced to the clear precise sounds that I am used to with the Z906, my headphones, in-ears all after I burn them in with that album.

And take note, the Elacs cost more than $2000 when you take into consideration the AV receiver. While the Z906 can be bought new for just $380 which is like 1/5 of the price.
 
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wwenze

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Part 1: Vs Edifier R2000DB

So, what happens when you pit one speaker at $289 against another speaker at $269?

HDhT9dh.png


For some reason or other, R2000DB this time sounds much better than what I remembered it to. Could be a combination of not being off-axis (Putting upward-angled speakers on top of another makes it off-axis, what a surprise), better positioning, and not being in Dynamic EQ mode, thanks to a forummer pointing out it always powers on with Dynamic EQ mode - something I observed also happens on S3000 Pro. Could be my memory being bad without the S-520 available for immediate comparison. Whatever the reason is, the R2000DB today sounds like a definite 4.5-star for the $289 price, and the only reason I'm not giving it a 5-star is because 1) I can't claim to have heard all speakers at this price range before, 2) I don't know how Swan's D1080 performs (And now, M200MKII WiFi has also appeared as a competitor), and 3) It does have some parts i.e. the bass extension which *may* *could* be possibly be done better on another speaker at this price range (although the other speaker may not be necessarily better overall). So I find it hard to give it the 5-star rating which means "There is no other choice". I want to give it 5-star tho, because this is $400-500 price-class level of performance for $300 or less. But again, Swan exists.

Those who bought it for $189, lucky you. (D1080-IVB for $169 seems to be out of stock already.)

The result of the comparison is, it's not even close.

I'm actually having to disable the EQ on both speakers to reduce the gap. Because if I do the EQ to reduce the room bass boost, I need to apply another bass boost to balance the quantity, and the end result is usually better (Which is kind of the point). And once R2000DB is EQ-ed it is just, good. It's just, no comparison.

And so without EQ and letting both speakers have the sound they would have if just dumped into a typical room:

Bass extension of z623 wins without a doubt.
Highlighted area is roughly the advantage z623 has over R2000DB
uYKyNjv.png
Bass volume too. But R2000DB has enough midrange and upper bass to make the sound retain weight. In comparison, z623 has deeper bass but feels tinny. The balance of the treble quantity and quality is just bad.

Placing the z623 off-axis makes the sound more comfortable, but also makes it clear the R2000DB is better.

But I think putting the z623 on-axis still gives the best result for z623 in the end. It also results in a lot of treble, reminding you how a 2.1 with small woofer is supposed to sound like.

Putting the satellites closer together yields good results. On-axis + EQ to reduce the treble yields good results. But while that fixes quantity, it does not fix treble quality.

So this is the best I have gotten out of z623 so far. (Adding back EQ for the bass.) Much more tolerable. But every time I switch from R2000DB to z623 I still hear tiny speakers without tweeters. Maybe further treble EQ can fix that too, I dunno.

Overall, z623 is a usable speaker. Depending on your frequency response preference and how good you are with EQ. It performs pretty well if fixed correctly. Or can be pretty bad at default. Compared to R2000DB though? Nah. It has better bass extension, and that's it. And that doesn't help much with the overall sound where R2000DB is still leaps better.

Really, get bookshelves. Or at least get tweeters.

z623 is usable, but is the kind of usable you expect from $100+ speakers. Not $269.
 
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wwenze

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Before I completely forget about this...

The frequency response I get out of the RCA-out (i.e. the output to the left satellite) is interesting

37JvzWl.png


Ignore the 50Hz and harmonics. We have a pretty massive high-pass-filter feeding the satellites.

I think this result is actually inaccurate because when I applied EQ to change this back to flat, I got a sound with very little treble.

So how do you feed a flat signal into the satellite? Via a 3rd-party amplifier of course. And I got a sound with less treble than the original but still much more normal than what I got in the previous paragraph, proving the graph is indeed in some way inaccurate. But still, the sound sounds like what you would expect from a non-full-range 2-inch driver being fed a flat signal. Way insufficient. Or in other words, the only reason these satellites have so much treble is due to very aggressive EQ. And the reason these satellites have such horrible treble is also most likely due to the very aggressive EQ. You're forcing the woofer to produce way higher frequencies than it naturally does.

Adding a low-pass-filter helps the treble at the cost of treble quantity. But how much you want to cut, is up to you with no real correct answer. Because there is nothing that can properly reproduce the highs so you're choosing between no treble and bad treble. More natural sound but poorer frequency response, vs better frequency response but horrible. And I just learnt that you can actually cut a large chunk of treble frequencies and the sound still sounds reasonable. I mean, 10kHz to 20kHz is just one octave. It's like cutting from 100Hz to 50Hz, is also one octave.
 

bryanvlo

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Thanks for the review very useful! This was going for 99 bucks during the IT show but I missed out! Sounds like terribly good value at that price.
 
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