*Official* Shiny Things club - Part 2

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revhappy

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Anyone can let me know how to understand the price movements of iwda yesterday? I know it’s made up of 1600+ companies but it’s a pain to track it that way. Usually I look at the indices of the main markets they are in. Yesterday most of the market is in green but iwda went down so much.
IWDA trades during London hours. I think you are talking about US markets ending in the green? But when US markets opened they were in the red because people were expecting bad results from Apple, because suppliers reported bad results. But what happened was apple results were good and surprised the markets and they closed in green. However IWDA stops trading around 2 hrs after US market open, so there is a lag. Today when London markets open you should see IWDA gapping up. However this depends on US futures. If US futures are trading negative during London open, then IWDA, will not rise, may even fall more.

So to answer your question, there is no exact perfect tracking of IWDA and its constituents. There can be discount or a premium of around 1 or 2% even when all markets are open. This can also be due to short term liquidity reasons. But the market maker is supposed to come in and provide liquidity, in theory, which may not happen during hightened volatility.

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revhappy

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Does that mean that it is objectively better to buy $900 iwda and $100 eimi every month as compared to $1000 vwrd every month?

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From personal experience, yes. You want to trade in instruments with good liquidity and tight spreads.

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BBCWatcher

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So, if you’re going to do about $1000 or more worth of IWDA/EIMI/whatever, and you’re doing it every couple of months or more frequently, it’s going to work out cheaper to do it through IBKR (paying the $10/month account maintenance fee) than through Stanchart (paying $15 every 1-2 months in transaction costs). Once you hit $100k in your IBKR account, they waive the monthly account maintenance fees altogether, and IBKR becomes massively cheaper.
It’s not an account maintenance fee, and people get really confused if you call it that, because they mentally add the fee to trading commissions — and because that’s what banks in Singapore do when they have “account maintenance fees.” That’s not how it works. For accounts valued under US$100,000, Interactive Brokers charges a monthly minimum commission. Think of it like a month-to-month postpaid mobile phone contract of $10/month. As long as you have service (have your mobile phone), you must pay $10/month. But what you get is a bucket of minutes for voice calls, some Internet data, maybe a bit of roaming, etc. Whether you use those minutes and megabytes or not, you get charged $10. But you can use those allotted minutes and/or megabytes without additional charge. If you consume more than your bucket of minutes/megabytes, then you are charged something above $10 for that month.

In the case of Interactive Brokers, you’re charged normal (low) commission rates on your trades, but those charges are first credited against your US$10/month minimum. So your first X trades are no additional charge. (“X” depends on what your trades are, and where — just like the mobile phone example, where it would depend whether you’re using voice minutes or megabytes of data, if you’re roaming in London, etc.)

This concept seems to be very confusing for some reason (even if it is very much like a month-to-month postpaid mobile phone contract), but let’s call that US$10/month charge exactly what it is: a monthly minimum commission.

....And let’s make it even simpler, because it is simple I think. If you’re dollar cost averaging monthly into at least one security (for example, buying IWDA monthly) — and the vast majority of long-term working adult investors should be dollar cost averaging monthly, with a portion of their monthly paychecks — then Interactive Brokers will be less costly than Standard Chartered. Standard Chartered might win the cost comparison if you’re doing something very simple (one purchase) bimonthly, or a couple purchases even less often. But for monthly saving — to make saving a regular habit, as it should be — I don’t think there’s any way Standard Chartered can win a cost comparison against IB.

Standard Chartered and other Singapore brokers still have merit if you’re a Singapore resident trying to buy something traded on the Singapore Stock Exchange (SGX). IB does not offer SGX-listed securities to residents of Singapore. For example, if you have a Supplementary Retirement Scheme (SRS) account, you’ll probably need a broker in Singapore — or at least a bank in Singapore — to put SRS money to work. Although for SRS funds I don’t think it can be Standard Chartered specifically.
 
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limster

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How much does it cost to buy US$1,000 (2 May 2018):

IBKR: S$1,333.95 + US$2 commission (part of the US$10 min if you have less than $100k).
FSM: S$1,337.79
SCB: S$1,340.77

FSM's exchange rates are impressively close to IBKR. When it comes to HKD, in IBKR, there is no direct S$-HK$ pair, so you have to pay double commission to convert twice, making FSM quite ok for HKD.

I have just started buying Vanguard ETF on HKSE via FSM, to split my holdings amongst different brokers and also because Vanguard has 2 Asia-focused ETFs listed on HKSE but none on LSE.

The plus point for SCB is no min commission for PB and the US$ debit Mastercard (your regular S$ credit card, you are paying more than 1.34077 if you use it for US$ transactions / even if there is a small transaction fee for the US$ debit card overseas transactions, the credit card rate is still worse),.

As long as you are a regular ebay/amazon customer, you don't need to convert your US$ dividends back to S$, just spend the US$ with the debit card.
 

BBCWatcher

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I have just started buying Vanguard ETF on HKSE via FSM, to split my holdings amongst different brokers and also because Vanguard has 2 Asia-focused ETFs listed on HKSE but none on LSE.
OK, but several points:

1. Why “Asia-focused”? Most long-term investors shouldn’t be trying to guess which continent will be the headquarters/stock exchange listing continent for the most successful companies over the next several decades. (And I’ve described accurately what “focus” means here. “Asia-focused” means “not Apple,” for example, but Apple sells a heck of a lot of iPhones in China, for example. Samsung sells a heck of a lot of mobile phones in Europe, as another example — many, many more than they do in Korea.)

2. Vanguard doesn’t offer Asia-focused ETFs in London, but Blackrock (iShares) does, as one example.

3. What are the bid-ask spreads (and trading volumes) for Vanguard’s ETFs in Hong Kong as compared to LSE-traded analogs? That matters.

4. Assuming you’re a non-U.S. person, you really don’t want to touch anything in Hong Kong that contains non-trivial U.S. listed stocks. Ireland’s 15% dividend withholding treaty tax rate beats Hong Kong’s 30%. (And if you’re a U.S. person, you really don’t want to touch anything that’s a non-U.S. listed/traded fund.)

With respect to your point about debit card performance, there is some convenience there if you don’t have, and aren’t able to get, a U.S. bank or U.S. credit union account. If you do have a U.S. bank or U.S. credit union account, or can get one, that’s a far better option for facilitating U.S. dollar (or, indeed, any other foreign currency) card spending. The U.S. offers superb cards (credit and debit) to support your overseas spending needs, so that’d be the first and best choice if it’s available to you. Also, I believe IB is able to wire U.S. dollars as U.S. dollars into a Singapore-based U.S. dollar bank account. (Please check that.) One example would be ICBC Singapore, which offers lovely debit and credit cards that allow you to spend U.S. dollars without any markup from U.S. dollar funds held at ICBC. Anyway, you have choices here. I’m not sure that Standard Chartered is particularly special in this respect. (And, by the way, ICBC’s Global Travel Mastercard credit card is outperforming a 0% markup on overseas spending. It’s providing a net 0.5% rebate on overseas spending, from dollar one and with no cap. So this problem only exists to the extent you don’t have the right overseas card for spending from Singapore dollar funds.)
 
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soulblader_89

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Hi Shiny,

I finally read finish your entire Ebook, I must it is simple, and easy and straight to the point. Thanks for the book

I am a 29 year old guys, for the three-ETF portfolio, ju

so the number of the stock I should own is : 110 - 29 = 81

The number of the Bond I should own is 100 - 81 = 19

Assuming every Month I will contribute $100 for investment, I should contribute $81 for stock and $19 for bond?

just a few short question, I going to open a the POSB invest-Saver account soon.

1) I understand I need to divide my stock into 2 portion right, local-stock ETF and global stock ETF, is it okay to divide them into 40 and 41?

2) How regular should I change the percentage of portfolio? every 10 years? or every year?

3) Buy ES3 for local stock and A35 bond using Posb investSaver, and buy IWDA using Standard Charter Bank ? is it right way of doing?
 

Wishdom

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Question out of curiosity. Why is there a need to divide stock portion into local etf and global etf? Why not all global?

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tangent314

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Hi Shiny,

I finally read finish your entire Ebook, I must it is simple, and easy and straight to the point. Thanks for the book

I am a 29 year old guys, for the three-ETF portfolio, ju

so the number of the stock I should own is : 110 - 29 = 81

The number of the Bond I should own is 100 - 81 = 19

Assuming every Month I will contribute $100 for investment, I should contribute $81 for stock and $19 for bond?

just a few short question, I going to open a the POSB invest-Saver account soon.

1) I understand I need to divide my stock into 2 portion right, local-stock ETF and global stock ETF, is it okay to divide them into 40 and 41?

2) How regular should I change the percentage of portfolio? every 10 years? or every year?

3) Buy ES3 for local stock and A35 bond using Posb investSaver, and buy IWDA using Standard Charter Bank ? is it right way of doing?


It really depends on the amount you are going to save every month. If it's only going to be $100, not only will you kill yourself on fees buying IWDA, but POSB InvestSaver has a minimum of $100 per stock.

If you really can only afford to save $100 per month, then you should put in $100 per month into ES3, then on the 5th month switch to A35, then switch back to ES3 again. Or simply put in $100 into A35 every 4 months.

Because of the fees involved with IWDA, it may be better to only do an annual rebalancing from ES3 into IWDA.


One alternative to A35 would be buy SSBs, although the order size is $500. What you can do is to open a DBS Multiplier account and credit your salary into DBS and with some spending on a DBS credit card plus your InvestSaver RSP you should be able to reach at least the 2% interest tier. You could move money into the Multiplier account and treat it as 'bond'-like part of your portfolio, then purchase SSBs from there when you have accumulate enough.
 

artemov

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It really depends on the amount you are going to save every month. If it's only going to be $100, not only will you kill yourself on fees buying IWDA, but POSB InvestSaver has a minimum of $100 per stock.

If you really can only afford to save $100 per month, then you should put in $100 per month into ES3, then on the 5th month switch to A35, then switch back to ES3 again. Or simply put in $100 into A35 every 4 months.

Lol I dun think it's 100 lah ... he's just using 100 cos it's simple to illustrate.
 

makav31i

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It really depends on the amount you are going to save every month. If it's only going to be $100, not only will you kill yourself on fees buying IWDA, but POSB InvestSaver has a minimum of $100 per stock.

If you really can only afford to save $100 per month, then you should put in $100 per month into ES3, then on the 5th month switch to A35, then switch back to ES3 again. Or simply put in $100 into A35 every 4 months.

Because of the fees involved with IWDA, it may be better to only do an annual rebalancing from ES3 into IWDA.


One alternative to A35 would be buy SSBs, although the order size is $500. What you can do is to open a DBS Multiplier account and credit your salary into DBS and with some spending on a DBS credit card plus your InvestSaver RSP you should be able to reach at least the 2% interest tier. You could move money into the Multiplier account and treat it as 'bond'-like part of your portfolio, then purchase SSBs from there when you have accumulate enough.

POSB Invest Saver is for G3B not ES3...
 

w1rbelw1nd

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Very good question actually. Would want to hear what others think of it, but my understanding is that :

1. You want to have "local" exposure that will match both your FX exposure, and local economy conditions

2. Because you can't only buy local indices due to country specific risk, it would be better to diversify into global stocks.

Anyway, I feel that the thought process should be tempered with consideration of local index mix. One should ask themselves if the local index is a reasonable mix of equities that reflect our retirement exposure. Would you ask a Burmese to buy a Burma index (if it exists) then put 50% into global equities? Does it mean that our STI exposure of almost 50% exposure in banks, huge exposure in telcos/ppty stocks a true representation of retirement cost, or at least is somewhat similar to what a US investor can do?

I think many people try to approach retirement planning and investing as if it is a solvable math problem with a definitive answer, but it's not. understanding tradeoffs, the different considerations in decision making, how personal constraints and preference can/cannot be circumvented is more important than actual executions (trading costs, % allocation etc)



Question out of curiosity. Why is there a need to divide stock portion into local etf and global etf? Why not all global?

Sent from Ilovennp using GAGT
 
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sweester

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Hi Everyone, I've read Shiny's book and really like it. I've opened an account with IB and Standchart and is getting ready to invest but I have a few questions at the back of my mind because of my unique spousal situation.

I am a true blue Singaporean, non-US person. I've spent too much time studying and working in the US and married a US person. Now that we are back in Singapore, my wife loves it here while I am in between, there are days that I love it here and there are days I will KPKB and want to move back to the US after a few years (whenever my old parent goes to heaven).

1. For my situation, for someone who might move back to the US, how would you advise my ES3 vs IWDA allocation? Should it remain a 50/50 or a heavier tilt towards IWDA 60/40 or even 70/30?

2. For having a US spouse, is there any advantage or disadvantage investing in IWDA using IB?

3. Is there any tax issue if I passed on that my US spouse should be aware of if I invest in IWDA with IB?

Thanks.
 

FrostWurm

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1. Why “Asia-focused”? Most long-term investors shouldn’t be trying to guess which continent will be the headquarters/stock exchange listing continent for the most successful companies over the next several decades. (And I’ve described accurately what “focus” means here. “Asia-focused” means “not Apple,” for example, but Apple sells a heck of a lot of iPhones in China, for example. Samsung sells a heck of a lot of mobile phones in Europe, as another example — many, many more than they do in Korea.)

So if I have to make a guess, your stock portfolio consists only of global ETFs so that you can avoid guessing (pun intended)? No thematic/regional bias at all? :s12:
 

Falcondiaz

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I’m going to wrap all of these up into one answer.

From FalconDiaz’s question: yeah, the first option is the smart way to do it: buy $x worth of one stock each month until you get to your target percentages, rather than trying to split it three ways every month.

How this interacts with buying IWDA or EIMI or whatever overseas-listed stock:
  • When you buy a stock through Stanchart, you pay $10 (ish) in brokerage fees, and 0.5% (-ish, though it’s hidden) in spread on the FX conversion. So, for a $1,000 purchase of stock, that’s about $15 SGD.
  • When you buy a stock through Interactive Brokers, you pay $2-ish in brokerage fees, $2-ish in fees on the currency conversion, and basically zero in spread on the FX conversion (it’s about 0.01% on SGD-to-USD). However, the $4 in fees gets offset against your monthly account maintenance fees ($10 a month).

So, if you’re going to do about $1000 or more worth of IWDA/EIMI/whatever, and you’re doing it every couple of months or more frequently, it’s going to work out cheaper to do it through IBKR (paying the $10/month account maintenance fee) than through Stanchart (paying $15 every 1-2 months in transaction costs). Once you hit $100k in your IBKR account, they waive the monthly account maintenance fees altogether, and IBKR becomes massively cheaper.

Any questions?

Thanks for your reply ST. Ok, so if I would set aside 300-500 per month into IWDA, it would still be more worth it to use IB. It's also still more worth it to work with IB if I accumulate 300-500 per month for each quarter and invest in IWDA, but would I lose out on the DCA effect (monthly Vs quarterly)?
 

Maeda_Toshiie

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Hi Everyone, I've read Shiny's book and really like it. I've opened an account with IB and Standchart and is getting ready to invest but I have a few questions at the back of my mind because of my unique spousal situation.

I am a true blue Singaporean, non-US person. I've spent too much time studying and working in the US and married a US person. Now that we are back in Singapore, my wife loves it here while I am in between, there are days that I love it here and there are days I will KPKB and want to move back to the US after a few years (whenever my old parent goes to heaven).

1. For my situation, for someone who might move back to the US, how would you advise my ES3 vs IWDA allocation? Should it remain a 50/50 or a heavier tilt towards IWDA 60/40 or even 70/30?

2. For having a US spouse, is there any advantage or disadvantage investing in IWDA using IB?

3. Is there any tax issue if I passed on that my US spouse should be aware of if I invest in IWDA with IB?

Thanks.

1. I think the question is: where do you intend to retire? US? SG? Elsewhere? If you are clear that you will never retire in SG, you can practically ignore SG*. That said, on the other hand, if you have intermediate financial goals to meet here, you may want to keep some money in local investments.

2. For you? None (as long as you buy under your name and Sg residence and buy Ireland domiciled stuff). For her? She will be subject to 30% withholding taxes even if she buys Ireland domiciled ETFs. Since she cannot avoid the taxes, she should simply buy US listed index ETFs because of higher liquidity and lower TER, or even certain passive index mutual funds (Vanguard, Charles Schwabs, etc) with low to zero transaction fees (these may require a US address though).

3. She is a US person and is subject to US tax laws (including estate) wherever she goes (I don't know if it applies to Mars when Elon finally builds the BFR). On the other hand, if you hold SG citizenship, you are subject to SG law while living in SG (currently no estate taxes, baby!). If you are substantially in the US, you will be subject to US laws depending on your status (eg. green card holding resident alien or non green card holding non resident alien).

* It's a two body problem, so the two of you have to work out. You two can possibly even plan a jet setting retirement where you hop from place to place, which probably means that you aren't spending much SGD, so you may not want to hold on to a whole bunch of SGD.

Now, people may argue about the fluctuations and inflation of the value of USD and SGD, and then try to compare them side by side...
 

Shiny Things

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Thanks for your reply ST. Ok, so if I would set aside 300-500 per month into IWDA, it would still be more worth it to use IB. It's also still more worth it to work with IB if I accumulate 300-500 per month for each quarter and invest in IWDA, but would I lose out on the DCA effect (monthly Vs quarterly)?

Um. Hang on, at those sizes IB’s monthly minimum commission would probably add up to more than Stanchart, especially if you’re buying every quarter. You really need to be investing about $1k a month for IBKR to be worth it.

Hi Everyone, I've read Shiny's book and really like it.

Glad you enjoyed it!

I am a true blue Singaporean, non-US person. I've spent too much time studying and working in the US and married a US person. Now that we are back in Singapore, my wife loves it here while I am in between, there are days that I love it here and there are days I will KPKB and want to move back to the US after a few years (whenever my old parent goes to heaven).

1. For my situation, for someone who might move back to the US, how would you advise my ES3 vs IWDA allocation? Should it remain a 50/50 or a heavier tilt towards IWDA 60/40 or even 70/30?

2. For having a US spouse, is there any advantage or disadvantage investing in IWDA using IB?

3. Is there any tax issue if I passed on that my US spouse should be aware of if I invest in IWDA with IB?

Thanks.

For Q1: Yes, you’ll want a heavier tilt toward US stocks and bonds, to cover the possibility that you might end up retiring in the States. It’s a bit of a spitball, but dividing your ES3 and A35 buckets 50-50 between Singapore and the US, and leaving the IWDA bucket intact, would seem like a sensible mix.

2, 3: I don’t know the answer to these; you’ll want to ask an accountant. BBCW might have a solid opinion as well.

Question out of curiosity. Why is there a need to divide stock portion into local etf and global etf? Why not all global?

Sent from Ilovennp using GAGT

Great question.

The reason is that when you’re investing for retirement, you care about what the cost of living in Singapore will be when you retire—because presumably you’re retiring in Singapore (see the above question from sweater, who might not be retiring in Singapore). If you put all your money in global stocks, and the local currency strengthens or the local economy outperforms over the subsequent decades, you might find yourself lagging behind the local economy’s performance.

Wirb correctly pointed out upthread that you don’t always want a 50-50 split. If you live in a country with an undeveloped local market (like Myanmar!) or a lot of political risk or economic risk (ahem Brazil), you’d want to put more in global assets than local assets.

Hi Shiny,

I finally read finish your entire Ebook, I must it is simple, and easy and straight to the point. Thanks for the book

Thanks!

I am a 29 year old guys, for the three-ETF portfolio, ju

so the number of the stock I should own is : 110 - 29 = 81

The number of the Bond I should own is 100 - 81 = 19

Assuming every Month I will contribute $100 for investment, I should contribute $81 for stock and $19 for bond?

Sort of. It gets a bit tricky to invest “$81 a month” or similar, so the better way to do it is to buy stocks for four months, then bonds for one month. After a few months, you’ll end up pretty close to 81-19 - close enough, anyway.

1) I understand I need to divide my stock into 2 portion right, local-stock ETF and global stock ETF, is it okay to divide them into 40 and 41?

Oh my goodness yes. You don’t need to be completely anal about every percentage point. At this stage, as long as you’re regularly investing and you’ve got a target allocation that you’re investing to, you’re doing fine.

2) How regular should I change the percentage of portfolio? every 10 years? or every year?

I think every year is fine, because when you get a year older your allocation’s going to change by a percentage point. This doesn’t matter too much when your portfolio’s small, though, so like I said above, don’t worry if you’re a few dollars away from your target percentage.

3) Buy ES3 for local stock and A35 bond using Posb investSaver, and buy IWDA using Standard Charter Bank ? is it right way of doing?

Yep! You’ve got it.

Does that mean that it is objectively better to buy $900 iwda and $100 eimi every month as compared to $1000 vwrd every month?

Sent from Ilovennp using GAGT

No, it's not objectively better; you're going to be running up two sets of brokerage fees every month if you do this, because you're buying two stocks instead of one.

Anyone can let me know how to understand the price movements of iwda yesterday? I know it’s made up of 1600+ companies but it’s a pain to track it that way. Usually I look at the indices of the main markets they are in. Yesterday most of the market is in green but iwda went down so much.

You’re talking about May 1st, yeah? It’s because:
  • On April 30th, the US stock market dropped a lot after IWDA (which is listed in London) closed. The US market makes up a lot of IWDA, so that drop was reflected in a gap lower when IWDA opened the next day (May 1st).
  • On May 1st, the US market headed lower again when it opened, about halfway through IWDA’s trading day, so IWDA dropped again in sync with the US market.

I don’t think revhappy’s right when he writes “there can be a discount or premium of 1-2% in IWDA even when the market’s open”; that seems like way too much, a discount or premium that size should be easy to arbitrage away. IWDA tracks the underlying indices pretty closely.

It’s not an account maintenance fee, and people get really confused if you call it that, because they mentally add the fee to trading commissions — and because that’s what banks in Singapore do when they have “account maintenance fees.” That’s not how it works. For accounts valued under US$100,000, Interactive Brokers charges a monthly minimum commission.

Yeah, absolutely fair; I like your terminology a lot better. I'll go back and edit the post.
 

peipei1

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My views of ABF bond is that it gives you the 10th year yield of SSB from the go, or thereof. The dividend i got this Jan was about 2% yield, at the time when SSB was 1.4%.

Beyond that, i realised SGS bonds is better if you have large amount of free cash, and SSB if you have 100K and below.

The capital loss nature of ABF and the transaction costs, do not make sense when our government bonds giving around the same or better yield with capital protection. SSB is more liquid than ABF, like you lose a month but ABF price drop so much, you can't sell to reallocate right?

Some more ABF dividend payout is once a year while government bonds are accrued and pro rated.

Bonds funds makes more sense outside Singapore?
 

kingofkings86

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As people have mentioned above, they’re different things. IWDA owns global developed-market stocks; EIMI owns emerging-market stocks. You don’t need to worry about owning EM stocks until your portfolio gets bigger—six figures is my usual threshold for this stuff—because they’ll only be a small amount of your portfolio, and you don’t want to run up transaction fees buying tiny 3-5% clips of these stocks.

by six figures, do u mean iwda+es3+a35 in sgd? or just iwda+es3 in sgd?
 

BBCWatcher

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....but I have a few questions at the back of my mind because of my unique spousal situation.
It's not unique. Plenty of non-U.S. persons are married to U.S. persons.

I am a true blue Singaporean, non-US person. I've spent too much time studying and working in the US and married a US person.
How much time is "too much time"? I'm asking for a specific, tax-related reason.

1. For my situation, for someone who might move back to the US, how would you advise my ES3 vs IWDA allocation? Should it remain a 50/50 or a heavier tilt towards IWDA 60/40 or even 70/30?
If the odds are that you'll retire in the United States, there's no compelling reason to have much ES3 at all. Keep in mind that IWDA includes a dash of Singapore listed stocks already, and, moreover, Singapore listed stocks include what amounts to an Australian telco. (Singtel's revenues are more Australian than Singaporean, and that's the largest stock in the STI.)

Just before you move to the United States -- that's before, please note -- you'll want to come out of IWDA and move into SWISX, for example. Under current U.S. tax rules, a new immigrant (that'd be you) becomes subject to U.S. capital gains tax when stepping foot in the U.S. (ordinarily), and the cost basis is set to when you acquired the asset, not the date of entry into the U.S. So you very much want to reset the cost basis on any appreciated assets before you land, and switch over to on shore analogs. IWDA maps to SWISX quite nicely, and you should be able to make that shift via Schwab's office in Singapore before you get on the plane to immigrate.

Off shore funds are not appropriate for U.S. persons, and I could probably use stronger language. Your spouse should avoid them, and you should come out of them before immigrating.

2. For having a US spouse, is there any advantage or disadvantage investing in IWDA using IB?
Yes, for tax optimization reasons across the household you should be assuming the potentially highest yielding assets, so piling into IWDA (or VWRD) makes sense. Your spouse might want to take on the more conservative elements of your household investment portfolio...except for her U.S. Individual Retirement Account (IRA) contributions.

OK, I need to explain that one. I'm assuming she files her U.S. taxes as "Married Filing Separately." You actually have the option to join up with her and file a joint U.S. tax return ("Married Filing Jointly"), but it's a little complicated and let's leave that aside. If you're real curious about it, I can explain it later. OK, assuming she's Married Filing Separately and living in Singapore, she'll undoubtedly take what's called the "Foreign Income Exclusion." If she's getting a relatively high, or higher, income from work that's above her Foreign Income Exclusion (and her Foreign Housing Exclusion), then she is eligible to make at least nondeductible Traditional IRA contributions. And she should. Traditional IRAs can be rolled over into Roth IRAs, and most probably she should also do that. Her IRAs should also hold the potentially highest yielding assets, since those IRAs are U.S. tax advantaged.

If she has a relatively high income from work and is starting to surpass the Foreign Income Exclusion, then it's a really good idea if she pays housing expenses, specifically things like rent and the electricity bill. That's the stuff that boosts her Foreign Housing Exclusion, and that's helpful.

Your wife is subject to an annual gift limit of US$152,000, excluding her payment of your medical, educational, and some other expenses which are generally unlimited. Meaning, if she gives you US$152,000 (or more), or some equivalent, then she has to file a U.S. gift tax return. She isn't taxed on that gift, but it does dig into her lifetime estate tax exemption. But the U.S. estate tax exemption is US$11.2 million currently, and that's a lot. She can leave up to that amount to you (or to anyone), estate tax free.

What else....? If she's a CPF member, let me know since that's really odd for U.S. persons. If she's getting life insurance from her employer then the portion of the life insurance benefit above US$50,000 -- the premium value for that part of the insurance -- has to be treated as U.S. taxable, earned income, unless she puts a letter on file with her employer indicating that the life insurance benefit in excess of US$50,000 be paid to a U.S. IRS qualified charity. I think employer-provided life insurance is also taxable in Singapore, at least to some extent, so maybe that's not a problem.

She'll want to check her U.S. Social Security earnings history. In particular, she ought to check whether she's hit the 10 year/40 quarter credit mark and is qualified for Medicare. If she has reached that point -- if she sees in her online statement that she has qualified for Medicare -- then that's good news for both of you. That'll mean, in addition to U.S. Medicare eligibility at age 65, she qualifies for a future Social Security retirement benefit (perhaps a modest one). And even if you don't have enough quarter credits to qualify for retirement benefits on your own, you will still qualify for a spousal benefit which is ordinarily half her monthly benefit. (See how it pays to marry an American? :D)

I would hang onto any low cost U.S. financial products, if possible. If she has a low cost U.S. credit card, she can add you as an additional/supplemental card holder, and that's probably a good idea since that'll keep a U.S. credit history going for you, if you otherwise don't have a U.S. financial footprint.

If you were assigned a U.S. Social Security Number (probably), it's yours for life. Don't forget it. SSNs are useful.

It takes several months, and often a year or more, for a U.S. citizen to bring his/her spouse into the United States as a permanent resident. If you think you might need to move back to the U.S. with your spouse on a shorter timeline than that, then your spouse could file a USCIS I-130 petition to sponsor you for immigration, now. Then, when the I-130 is approved (after a few months), all she needs to do is contact the U.S. National Visa Center at least once every 12 months (every 11 months works) to keep the approved visa application "on ice," and stop the NVC from automatically closing the file. That can be done indefinitely. When you're ready to move to the U.S., you then use the approved I-130 and proceed to the visa processing stage.

If you have an approved I-130 "on ice," and if you travel to the U.S. for a short stay with ESTA visa waiver privileges, you might get a question when you enter about that status. Something like, "Are you moving to the U.S. today?" You just need to be clear that you're NOT entering the United States with the intent to immigrate on that trip, but, sometime in the future, only after your visa is approved, you will immigrate. As long as you can keep all that straight and answering truthfully (if that's the truth), you're fine.

If you decide to buy a home in Singapore, or anywhere else for that matter, you have to give some thought whether your spouse should be co-owner or not. Sometimes you and she don't have a choice, with a mortgage lender and/or the U.S. IRS deciding that ownership question for you. But just be aware that U.S. persons are subject to U.S. capital gains tax, and that includes real estate gains. Fortunately there's often a US$250,000 capital gains exemption on a primary home, and that's calculated net of costs. Stamp duty, remodeling, closing costs, etc. are legitimate costs. Half a primary home means the after cost gain would have to be above US$500,000 to drive some taxable capital gains, and that's a lot, but it's not an astoundingly high number.

3. Is there any tax issue if I passed on that my US spouse should be aware of if I invest in IWDA with IB?
I don't think so, but she'll want to move IWDA into the U.S. in the event you predecease her and your estate passes to her, simply because off shore funds are not appropriate for U.S. persons. (The U.S. tax treatment is less favorable, and I'm being a bit kind.) The U.S. does not have an inheritance tax, so no tax is owed with the transfer itself. I believe the cost basis is reset when the estate passes from you to her, so that's good. She will have to file a piece of paper that simply reports the gift/inheritance from a foreign person (you), but that's all it is (a report).
 

Wishdom

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No, it's not objectively better; you're going to be running up two sets of brokerage fees every month if you do this, because you're buying two stocks instead of one.

Assuming that I am using interactive brokers, the brokerage will be calculated based on a percentage of total investment value. In this case, there will not be a difference in the total brokerage fees spent.

It seems like 900 iwda and 100 eimi is still better compared to 1000vwrd monthly. Will love any views as I'm currently torn between the two.


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