The Fabrics Thread (Shirting and Suiting) - Ask here.

[boysdontcryy]

As the title states, this will be the fabrics thread.

Post away with queries about shirtings, suitings and sports jacketing.

Not sure which is wearable in Singapore? Just ask.

Unaware about the quality of specific cloth? Just ask.

Want to check if a particular brand of cloth is good? Just ask.

Talk about fabrics, and share your stash.

 

[boysdontcryy]

Okay. I'll repost what I shared.

Contrary to popular misconception that suits cannot be worn in Singapore because it's way too hot, I'd like to add my 2 cents to this.

If you're in an air-conditioned area most of the time (or even take a short walk outside), it's less likely you'll sweat as much if you pay attention to two simple points when having a suit made up/or when buying a suit.

The properties of the fabric (1) and the construction (2) are the two crucial elements in ensuring one remains cool despite the layers. One can even feel cooler wearing a coat than not.

Surprised?

Here's why:

To give you an example, when I wear suits in Singapore, I choose to have my suits made out of light, porous fabrics so that they permit the maximum amount of wind to pass through. It also helps in the circulation of heat.

Take a look at this wool suit directly underneath.

You'll see how porous it is, and how one can see the grilles through the fabric!

[/QUOTE]

This below, is a T-SHIRT from MUJI. Can you see the window grilles? Pretty obvious which wears cooler

My shirt + coat combined is probably more porous and lighter than some t-shirts out there ;P



Try holding up your t-shirt against the sunlight and tell me which is more porous?

 

[boysdontcryy]

Frankly, Acorn's basic shirting range are of decent, durable, quality (Grasmere, Windsor etc are top range). It's good they're 2 by 2 ply. They're not the finest on the market, however, but sufficient for most purposes. I have shirts made out of King, Monarch etc.

However, not all of RSK's shirting range is inferior. They have some decent shirtings too.

I buy my shirtings from Italy (woven in Italy) because there's a wider range of patterns from which I can choose from, and the quality tends to be better than Acorn. They also tend to be lighter and more comfortable.

True that. But some Acorn fabrics on sale even cheaper than the fabric my budget tailor uses(RSK). End price with Acorn still cheaper than the price of using their fabric. But some may view it as a waste of good fabric though! Haha

 

[boysdontcryy]

Here's shirting by the Italian mill I spoke about. It's EXTREMELY light weight. One of the exceptionally light ones in fact. I prefer a slightly beefier fabric, but this is good for wearing in the tropics.

I shall post pictures of Acorn fabrics (made up into shirts) if people are interested.

 

[yang86]

does s-numbers correlate to the lightness? (especially when they are from same range)

 

[boysdontcryy]

Are you referring to suiting/sports jacketing, or shirting?

With regards to shirting: As a general rule of thumb, the higher the numbers, the tendency is that the fabrics will weigh lighter.

Here, you can see that Acorn's Monarch shirting which is a 2 by 2 ply 100s weighs 105 grams/sq M.

This is in comparison with Acorn's Grasmere's shirting range, a more luxurious, 2 by 2 ply, 160s, which weighs 85 grams/sq M.

However, I have seen 180s that weigh 100 grams and above. These, however, tend to be the exception, not the norm. The norm is that there's a gradual trend whereby the higher the yarn count, the lighter the fabric.

The 100- 160s and above references refer to the yarn count of the fabric, and the higher you go, the silkier and softer the shirting.

2 by 2 ply, refers to a weaving technique where 2 yarns are twist woven together. It stands to reason that a single yarn is probably more brittle than two woven together

Hope that helps

does s-numbers correlate to the lightness? (especially when they are from same range)

 

[Nayr-_]

Frankly, Acorn's basic shirting range are of decent, durable, quality (Grasmere, Windsor etc are top range). It's good they're 2 by 2 ply. They're not the finest on the market, however, but sufficient for most purposes. I have shirts made out of King, Monarch etc.

However, not all of RSK's shirting range is inferior. They have some decent shirtings too.

I buy my shirtings from Italy (woven in Italy) because there's a wider range of patterns from which I can choose from, and the quality tends to be better than Acorn. They also tend to be lighter and more comfortable.

Honestly I'm a noob when it comes to fabric. Once I was walking along arab street and bought some cheap fabric (I thought it was a steal!). Only to find out from my tailor it was of lousy quality.

Please post some shirts made up with Acorn fabrics.

Btw I saw your blog in your profile BDC. Very nicely done sir!

 

[yang86]

Are you referring to suiting/sports jacketing, or shirting?

With regards to shirting: As a general rule of thumb, the higher the numbers, the tendency is that the fabrics will weigh lighter.

Here, you can see that Acorn's Monarch shirting which is a 2 by 2 ply 100s weighs 105 grams/sq M.

This is in comparison with Acorn's Grasmere's shirting range, a more luxurious, 2 by 2 ply, 160s, which weighs 85 grams/sq M.

However, I have seen 180s that weigh 100 grams and above. These, however, tend to be the exception, not the norm. The norm is that there's a gradual trend whereby the higher the yarn count, the lighter the fabric.

The 100- 160s and above references refer to the yarn count of the fabric, and the higher you go, the silkier and softer the shirting.

2 by 2 ply, refers to a weaving technique where 2 yarns are twist woven together. It stands to reason that a single yarn is probably more brittle than two woven together

Hope that helps

Thanks for the explanation! Was refering to suit fabrics.

I initially thought it might be the other way round, like higher thread count > more materials > heavy/warmer.

Turns out its the opposite. Quite noob in this, only recently that i start looking into classic menswear.

 

[boysdontcryy]

No shame in asking. We all start off somewhere.

I'll post shirts made out of Acorn some time.

Also, the rule of thumb that holds for shirting also holds for suiting. I can see why you'd have thought otherwise.

IMHO, 9-10 oz is probably the sweet spot. One does NOT want to go too light because it compromises the longevity of the suit. A 9-10 oz PURE-WOOL suit, coupled with a porous weave + minimal lining are all crucial elements to beating that heat.

 

[boysdontcryy]

Whether 4 m is enough for two white shirts depends on the width of the fabric (If it's 36" or 60"), and also your height and weight.

I am interested in their oxford white. If this happens, count me in. Ordering 4m enough to make 2 white.

 

[yamcancook]

keep me in the loop if you guys are ordering the acorn fabrics as well.

I am rather new to the tailoring scene as well. To be honest, i don't even know how to diffierientate between good oxford and bad oxford fabric. Moreover, i don't understand why certain fabrics are even priced so high. Maybe probably due to the high mark-ups for certain tailors etc.

 

[Toby88]

A very insightful and informative thread!

I don't know most of the technical lingo here, but from I can tell, it seems like most posters here do know their stuff.

Personally, I do have slightly sensitive skin. Thus, with this so called problem, shirts and likewise tees are at times uncomfortable once I start sweating (sometimes even before). I would start scratching myself. Hence, the solution so far, wearing 'inner shirts' (just like the new SAF no.4).

Fabric that I know allows 'optimal comfort' for me are pima cotton and those bamboo mixed with cotton (not too sure if there's specific name). Sadly, those are somewhat restricted to t-shirts, thus becoming my so-called 'inner shirts'.

At the moment, I do have the need for suits. But, I would be interested to know more about fabrics for collared shirts, be it long or short sleeved. So that I can probably wear the shirt w/o the need for inner tees.

 

[boysdontcryy]

Why oxford cloth? Oxford cloth is actually just a fabric with a basketweave, and they tend to run heavy, and because of its weave pattern is very un-breathable.

I used to wear them a lot when I was based in the States (When in Rome, do as the Romans do), and it was perfect for the chillier weather, whether I was based in California or DC. I can't stand wearing Oxford shirts in SG, however, by sheer virtue of its weight and how it retains heat.

keep me in the loop if you guys are ordering the acorn fabrics as well.

I am rather new to the tailoring scene as well. To be honest, i don't even know how to diffierientate between good oxford and bad oxford fabric. Moreover, i don't understand why certain fabrics are even priced so high. Maybe probably due to the high mark-ups for certain tailors etc.

 

[boysdontcryy]

Thank you for being so candid. For the forum to be able to make appropriate recommendations, perhaps you can be more specific? What are the properties of the previous shirts/t-shirts that cause you to scratch? The scratchiness of the fabrics? The way it retains heat, and causes you to sweat?

A very insightful and informative thread!

I don't know most of the technical lingo here, but from I can tell, it seems like most posters here do know their stuff.

Personally, I do have slightly sensitive skin. Thus, with this so called problem, shirts and likewise tees are at times uncomfortable once I start sweating (sometimes even before). I would start scratching myself. Hence, the solution so far, wearing 'inner shirts' (just like the new SAF no.4).

Fabric that I know allows 'optimal comfort' for me are pima cotton and those bamboo mixed with cotton (not too sure if there's specific name). Sadly, those are somewhat restricted to t-shirts, thus becoming my so-called 'inner shirts'.

At the moment, I do have the need for suits. But, I would be interested to know more about fabrics for collared shirts, be it long or short sleeved. So that I can probably wear the shirt w/o the need for inner tees.

 

[dj_flame]

I'm sure many have experienced yellowing on their collars, due to the combo of crazy heat, humidity and perspiration.

I like using a bar laundry soap (the jap types you get @ NTUC) and a toothbrush to scrub out these stains, but sometimes the really stubborn ones can be a b****.

Any suggestions?

 

[Vadher]

Have not considered buying my own cloth for tailoring yet. How would the tailors charge you that way? Cheaper than if they used their own cloths?

Most of my shirts are tailored in the $150/ea range. I can't tell what fabric, but it is easily crumpled and some are thick and sort of difficult to iron.

Any suggestions?

 

[theRenaissance]

Have not considered buying my own cloth for tailoring yet. How would the tailors charge you that way? Cheaper than if they used their own cloths?

Most of my shirts are tailored in the $150/ea range. I can't tell what fabric, but it is easily crumpled and some are thick and sort of difficult to iron.

Any suggestions?

Usually when you provide your own cloth, its called CMT (Cut, Make, Trim) where tailors only charge you for the workmanship. It is definitely cheaper that way, although it really depends on what you gonna tailor.

e.g. 2pc suit cost $1.1 CMT, while using tailor fabric it will be around $1.6

To get a picture of what your shirts are, its easier if you show us some pictures.

 

[Vadher]

I'll take some photos when I'm feeling energetic :/

Mostly from Joes and Iris.

What should I be looking for if I want something that wouldn't crumple up as easily? I was told the more expensive are auper fine and more easily crumpled, especially easy to tell from the elbow area

 

[kelvinpooh]

Have not considered buying my own cloth for tailoring yet. How would the tailors charge you that way? Cheaper than if they used their own cloths?

Most of my shirts are tailored in the $150/ea range. I can't tell what fabric, but it is easily crumpled and some are thick and sort of difficult to iron.

Any suggestions?

At $120 - 180 range one can actually get quite alright fabric done by a decent tailor in Singapore. Different weave will determine how thick and how easily crumpled. You have to feel the swatch and when you are more experienced you should be able to guess.

Oxfords are usually thicker and less easy to crumple, but wears warmer than others.

I think let them earn this bit bah, unless you really do up alot of shirts, its not worth the effort. Limited edition suiting or jacketing fabrics I can understand.

 

[kelvinpooh]

Kudos for the TS for starting the thread and sharing knowledge.

Very informative indeed!