chincharito
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tks alot! tot some motor spoil or something...
Recommend a Good and Cheap Air-Con Service Company
- Thread starter Ew_pOOh_
- Start date
Hi Jason,
Many thanks for your detailed explanation. My wife and I now understand more about the issues that are happening to the aircon, which was not adequately explained by our former aircon servicemen (which we had a service contract).
We had engaged another aircon service company to look at the condenser/blowers again, and we are pleased that the servicemen had made the same diagnosis as that of Jason as well. The servicemen mentioned the words "High Amp" when they are measuring the condenser with their tools (a clamping ammeter & some instrumentation gauges), with the 2 blowers in Room B and Room C turned on.
May I know what does "High Amp" means?
A few minutes later, the compressor subsequently "cut-off" due to "High Amp", with the 2 blowers still turned on. I can no longer hear any whirring noise from the condenser, so I assume that the compressor has "stopped". The blowers also started to blow normal air rather than cold air.
Is this phenomenon consistent and correct? Will the compressor eventually start running again, without requiring me to turn off/on the blowers? Or do I need to stop/start the blowers, to "kick-start" the compressor?
Our monthly utility bills is $450 (HDB 5 room) with Room B & C aircon turned on once we get back home at night until the next working day.
The servicemen also took a look at the existing piping and remarked that it will be better to re-lay new piping. But due to the design of the house layout, with extensive hidden ceilings, false cornices and requiring to cut across many beams, installation of new piping may prove difficult. The servicemen are unable to give me a quote on the installation with new piping and had asked their boss to come down separately for the quotation.
If I had to use back the old piping, what can I do to minimize any problems down the road? Will flushing the old pipes prior to installation of new condenser/blowers helps? What other measures can I do?
Are the servicemen able to cut off the existing pipes that are easily accessible with new piping and weld/connect to the old pipes that are hidden? At least it will be half old (via inaccessible false ceiling) and half new pipes (via accessible trunking) - but will the welding joints leak? Sorry if it sounds weird, but we are laymen in the pipe laying process.
Finally, what would your recommendations be:
(1) If old piping used (and flushing done) , choose Daikin Inverter System 3 running on R22 gas (Any ideas on the condenser/blower model numbers)?
(2) If old piping used (and flushing done), choose Mitsubishi Electric StarMex Inverter System 3 running on R410a gas. (1x MXY-3A28VA, 3x MSY-GE10VA)
(3) If new piping used, choose Mitsubishi Electric StarMex Inverter System 3 running on R410a gas. (1x MXY-3A28VA, 3x MSY-GE10VA)
Once again, thank you very much for your advice. We are utmost grateful for your help.
Many thanks for your detailed explanation. My wife and I now understand more about the issues that are happening to the aircon, which was not adequately explained by our former aircon servicemen (which we had a service contract).
We had engaged another aircon service company to look at the condenser/blowers again, and we are pleased that the servicemen had made the same diagnosis as that of Jason as well. The servicemen mentioned the words "High Amp" when they are measuring the condenser with their tools (a clamping ammeter & some instrumentation gauges), with the 2 blowers in Room B and Room C turned on.
May I know what does "High Amp" means?
A few minutes later, the compressor subsequently "cut-off" due to "High Amp", with the 2 blowers still turned on. I can no longer hear any whirring noise from the condenser, so I assume that the compressor has "stopped". The blowers also started to blow normal air rather than cold air.
Is this phenomenon consistent and correct? Will the compressor eventually start running again, without requiring me to turn off/on the blowers? Or do I need to stop/start the blowers, to "kick-start" the compressor?
Our monthly utility bills is $450 (HDB 5 room) with Room B & C aircon turned on once we get back home at night until the next working day.
The servicemen also took a look at the existing piping and remarked that it will be better to re-lay new piping. But due to the design of the house layout, with extensive hidden ceilings, false cornices and requiring to cut across many beams, installation of new piping may prove difficult. The servicemen are unable to give me a quote on the installation with new piping and had asked their boss to come down separately for the quotation.
If I had to use back the old piping, what can I do to minimize any problems down the road? Will flushing the old pipes prior to installation of new condenser/blowers helps? What other measures can I do?
Are the servicemen able to cut off the existing pipes that are easily accessible with new piping and weld/connect to the old pipes that are hidden? At least it will be half old (via inaccessible false ceiling) and half new pipes (via accessible trunking) - but will the welding joints leak? Sorry if it sounds weird, but we are laymen in the pipe laying process.
Finally, what would your recommendations be:
(1) If old piping used (and flushing done) , choose Daikin Inverter System 3 running on R22 gas (Any ideas on the condenser/blower model numbers)?
(2) If old piping used (and flushing done), choose Mitsubishi Electric StarMex Inverter System 3 running on R410a gas. (1x MXY-3A28VA, 3x MSY-GE10VA)
(3) If new piping used, choose Mitsubishi Electric StarMex Inverter System 3 running on R410a gas. (1x MXY-3A28VA, 3x MSY-GE10VA)
Once again, thank you very much for your advice. We are utmost grateful for your help.
Daegan Tan
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I tried this service - Aircon Servicing Singapore - Aircon Service | Aircon Repair, Cleaning & Maintenance
I have a leaking aircon problem on a sunday. So i called this company and they answer my call and arrange to send their aircon man to my home to fix the aircon for me.
I have a leaking aircon problem on a sunday. So i called this company and they answer my call and arrange to send their aircon man to my home to fix the aircon for me.
maxicoolservices
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Hi nWo,
See in Blue
Many thanks for your detailed explanation. My wife and I now understand more about the issues that are happening to the aircon, which was not adequately explained by our former aircon servicemen (which we had a service contract).
We had engaged another aircon service company to look at the condenser/blowers again, and we are pleased that the servicemen had made the same diagnosis as that of Jason as well. The servicemen mentioned the words "High Amp" when they are measuring the condenser with their tools (a clamping ammeter & some instrumentation gauges), with the 2 blowers in Room B and Room C turned on.
We are glad to hear that the diagnosis is the same as there can be many possibilities to airconditioning issues. Sometimes if are not able to assess the condition of the unit, we can only base on the information provided to make a plausible guess on the possible fault. Other than that would be by elimination method.
May I know what does "High Amp" means?
High Amp simply means that the unit is running on high ampere = High Power Consumption.
There are many possible causes to High Amp such as the below:
1) Compressor Overheating
2) compressor Overloading
3) Loose wiring
4) Bad contact at contactor or compressor terminal
5) High Pressure
6) Faulty capacitor
7) Over charging of gas
8) Faulty outdoor fan motor
Etc etc
A few minutes later, the compressor subsequently "cut-off" due to "High Amp", with the 2 blowers still turned on. I can no longer hear any whirring noise from the condenser, so I assume that the compressor has "stopped". The blowers also started to blow normal air rather than cold air.
Is this phenomenon consistent and correct? Will the compressor eventually start running again, without requiring me to turn off/on the blowers? Or do I need to stop/start the blowers, to "kick-start" the compressor?
Our monthly utility bills is $450 (HDB 5 room) with Room B & C aircon turned on once we get back home at night until the next working day.
Based on your description, chances are your system is having high amp due to an overheating/overload trip. This is why the compressor cut out/stopped because it have overheated/overload. After the compressor cools down, the unit will start again.
This will be a consistent phenomenon and there is no need to restart any of your blowers. The unit will auto restart once the compressor cools. However this will lead to higher power consumption which could lead to higher electrical bills. The overloading will result in your blower not being able to emitt cold air and hence it does not reach the temperature required to cool down the room. The compressor will continue to run and this would mean more starting/stopping of the compressor, which would consume more electical power.
The servicemen also took a look at the existing piping and remarked that it will be better to re-lay new piping. But due to the design of the house layout, with extensive hidden ceilings, false cornices and requiring to cut across many beams, installation of new piping may prove difficult. The servicemen are unable to give me a quote on the installation with new piping and had asked their boss to come down separately for the quotation.
If I had to use back the old piping, what can I do to minimize any problems down the road? Will flushing the old pipes prior to installation of new condenser/blowers helps? What other measures can I do?
It is not encouraged that you use back your old pipings unless really no choice and you want to take a gamble. Molding have already been observed at certain spots with concealed pipings hence chances are the insulation are already sweating. With the new unit lasting at least 7 years, it would be a risk to keep the existing piping as we cannot know how long they can hold especially there are already signs of sweating insulation.
If you want to take a gamble and re-use the old pipings, most probably you will need to live with the molding which could get worse over time and it would be best that you have the installer check if the trunkings near to the blowers are also sweating water droplets as these can also mean that the insulation is severely affected and if this is the case, I would not encourage you to keep the pipings if possible.
Flushing the system will only be applicable if you decide to install a new system 3 that runs on R410A gas.
Are the servicemen able to cut off the existing pipes that are easily accessible with new piping and weld/connect to the old pipes that are hidden? At least it will be half old (via inaccessible false ceiling) and half new pipes (via accessible trunking) - but will the welding joints leak? Sorry if it sounds weird, but we are laymen in the pipe laying process.
This can be done but it is highly not recommended as it will not be cost efficient and it would not solve the sweating insulation problem.
Finally, what would your recommendations be:
(1) If old piping used (and flushing done) , choose Daikin Inverter System 3 running on R22 gas (Any ideas on the condenser/blower model numbers)?
(2) If old piping used (and flushing done), choose Mitsubishi Electric StarMex Inverter System 3 running on R410a gas. (1x MXY-3A28VA, 3x MSY-GE10VA)
(3) If new piping used, choose Mitsubishi Electric StarMex Inverter System 3 running on R410a gas. (1x MXY-3A28VA, 3x MSY-GE10VA)
Once again, thank you very much for your advice. We are utmost grateful for your help.
My take would be either option 1 if you decide to keep the old pipings due to the matching of the R-22 gas and there will not be a need to flush your system. As for the model numbers, it would be better if you get your current installers to advise as the models should match the BTU required according to your room size or option 3 if you change to new pipings.
Hope the above info gives you more insight and please do not hesitate to let me know if you require other information and we will try our best to assist.
Other then that, do discuss this with your installer. I am quite sure they will be able to give you more advise as they have already done a servicing and viewing hence they would be able to assess the situation much better.
Good Luck on the installation and it would be best not to rush into it as the cost to replace your unit especially with concealed pipings will be on the high side. Do consider running new exposed pipings/wirings if possible for ease of troubleshooting and cost efficiency.
Best Regards,
Jason Tham
See in Blue
Many thanks for your detailed explanation. My wife and I now understand more about the issues that are happening to the aircon, which was not adequately explained by our former aircon servicemen (which we had a service contract).
We had engaged another aircon service company to look at the condenser/blowers again, and we are pleased that the servicemen had made the same diagnosis as that of Jason as well. The servicemen mentioned the words "High Amp" when they are measuring the condenser with their tools (a clamping ammeter & some instrumentation gauges), with the 2 blowers in Room B and Room C turned on.
We are glad to hear that the diagnosis is the same as there can be many possibilities to airconditioning issues. Sometimes if are not able to assess the condition of the unit, we can only base on the information provided to make a plausible guess on the possible fault. Other than that would be by elimination method.
May I know what does "High Amp" means?
High Amp simply means that the unit is running on high ampere = High Power Consumption.
There are many possible causes to High Amp such as the below:
1) Compressor Overheating
2) compressor Overloading
3) Loose wiring
4) Bad contact at contactor or compressor terminal
5) High Pressure
6) Faulty capacitor
7) Over charging of gas
8) Faulty outdoor fan motor
Etc etc
A few minutes later, the compressor subsequently "cut-off" due to "High Amp", with the 2 blowers still turned on. I can no longer hear any whirring noise from the condenser, so I assume that the compressor has "stopped". The blowers also started to blow normal air rather than cold air.
Is this phenomenon consistent and correct? Will the compressor eventually start running again, without requiring me to turn off/on the blowers? Or do I need to stop/start the blowers, to "kick-start" the compressor?
Our monthly utility bills is $450 (HDB 5 room) with Room B & C aircon turned on once we get back home at night until the next working day.
Based on your description, chances are your system is having high amp due to an overheating/overload trip. This is why the compressor cut out/stopped because it have overheated/overload. After the compressor cools down, the unit will start again.
This will be a consistent phenomenon and there is no need to restart any of your blowers. The unit will auto restart once the compressor cools. However this will lead to higher power consumption which could lead to higher electrical bills. The overloading will result in your blower not being able to emitt cold air and hence it does not reach the temperature required to cool down the room. The compressor will continue to run and this would mean more starting/stopping of the compressor, which would consume more electical power.
The servicemen also took a look at the existing piping and remarked that it will be better to re-lay new piping. But due to the design of the house layout, with extensive hidden ceilings, false cornices and requiring to cut across many beams, installation of new piping may prove difficult. The servicemen are unable to give me a quote on the installation with new piping and had asked their boss to come down separately for the quotation.
If I had to use back the old piping, what can I do to minimize any problems down the road? Will flushing the old pipes prior to installation of new condenser/blowers helps? What other measures can I do?
It is not encouraged that you use back your old pipings unless really no choice and you want to take a gamble. Molding have already been observed at certain spots with concealed pipings hence chances are the insulation are already sweating. With the new unit lasting at least 7 years, it would be a risk to keep the existing piping as we cannot know how long they can hold especially there are already signs of sweating insulation.
If you want to take a gamble and re-use the old pipings, most probably you will need to live with the molding which could get worse over time and it would be best that you have the installer check if the trunkings near to the blowers are also sweating water droplets as these can also mean that the insulation is severely affected and if this is the case, I would not encourage you to keep the pipings if possible.
Flushing the system will only be applicable if you decide to install a new system 3 that runs on R410A gas.
Are the servicemen able to cut off the existing pipes that are easily accessible with new piping and weld/connect to the old pipes that are hidden? At least it will be half old (via inaccessible false ceiling) and half new pipes (via accessible trunking) - but will the welding joints leak? Sorry if it sounds weird, but we are laymen in the pipe laying process.
This can be done but it is highly not recommended as it will not be cost efficient and it would not solve the sweating insulation problem.
Finally, what would your recommendations be:
(1) If old piping used (and flushing done) , choose Daikin Inverter System 3 running on R22 gas (Any ideas on the condenser/blower model numbers)?
(2) If old piping used (and flushing done), choose Mitsubishi Electric StarMex Inverter System 3 running on R410a gas. (1x MXY-3A28VA, 3x MSY-GE10VA)
(3) If new piping used, choose Mitsubishi Electric StarMex Inverter System 3 running on R410a gas. (1x MXY-3A28VA, 3x MSY-GE10VA)
Once again, thank you very much for your advice. We are utmost grateful for your help.
My take would be either option 1 if you decide to keep the old pipings due to the matching of the R-22 gas and there will not be a need to flush your system. As for the model numbers, it would be better if you get your current installers to advise as the models should match the BTU required according to your room size or option 3 if you change to new pipings.
Hope the above info gives you more insight and please do not hesitate to let me know if you require other information and we will try our best to assist.
Other then that, do discuss this with your installer. I am quite sure they will be able to give you more advise as they have already done a servicing and viewing hence they would be able to assess the situation much better.
Good Luck on the installation and it would be best not to rush into it as the cost to replace your unit especially with concealed pipings will be on the high side. Do consider running new exposed pipings/wirings if possible for ease of troubleshooting and cost efficiency.
Best Regards,
Jason Tham
Hi Jason,
Many thanks for your replies. It is unfortunate that we are not able to do business with you do to tight scheduling.
The boss came today to re-look at the house layout, and have proposed a new piping route for the 3 bedrooms. Essentially we won't be hacking any false ceilings.
One thing he mentioned is that, our drainage pipes for the 3 blowers are running under the floor, which eventually leads to the drain trap in the kitchen. He has proposed using the same drainage pipes. Is this okay?
We used to have aircon dripping problems (before we did our servicing regularly), and now there is no more such problems.
Is there such a thing as vacumming the drainage pipe (to suck out all the standing water) OR cleaning the drainage pipes (to make sure no blockage) prior to installation? I am not sure of the condition of the drainage pipe as it is run under our floor, I believe they are PVC? Are they usually insulated?
We have opted for the Mitsubishi Electric StarMex Inverter System 3 running on R410a gas. (1x MXY-3A28VA, 3x MSY-GE10VA). Using G23 copper pipes with 1/2'' Armaflex insulation.
Once again, many thanks for your assistance. We are grateful for your help.
Many thanks for your replies. It is unfortunate that we are not able to do business with you do to tight scheduling.
The boss came today to re-look at the house layout, and have proposed a new piping route for the 3 bedrooms. Essentially we won't be hacking any false ceilings.
One thing he mentioned is that, our drainage pipes for the 3 blowers are running under the floor, which eventually leads to the drain trap in the kitchen. He has proposed using the same drainage pipes. Is this okay?
We used to have aircon dripping problems (before we did our servicing regularly), and now there is no more such problems.
Is there such a thing as vacumming the drainage pipe (to suck out all the standing water) OR cleaning the drainage pipes (to make sure no blockage) prior to installation? I am not sure of the condition of the drainage pipe as it is run under our floor, I believe they are PVC? Are they usually insulated?
We have opted for the Mitsubishi Electric StarMex Inverter System 3 running on R410a gas. (1x MXY-3A28VA, 3x MSY-GE10VA). Using G23 copper pipes with 1/2'' Armaflex insulation.
Once again, many thanks for your assistance. We are grateful for your help.
Last edited:
ktee
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Hi
I've a system 2 National model no.CS-MC9CKNG installed in May 2003. Slightly over 10yrs. I only do the servicing myself - simple like cleaning filters, take out casing to clean/vacuum coils with over-the-counter air-cond cleaning agent like Jackie. When the water dripped, i took out the unit and blow/suck the pipe clean.
Everything was ok until 2 days ago. 1 of the room's unit only blows out warm air (even in cool mode). The other room's unit is ok.
I cleaned the filter and coil. It still blows out warm air.
As my outdoor unit (mid floor hdb) is not visible from my room, i can't see whether the fan turns or not when I on the unit.
Can you please let me know what could be the problem? Is it the compressor fault? Is it worth to repair? If yes, what is the charge like.
As an alternative, can you recommend a good system 3 unit (inverter or non). Pls pm me for details. Thanks.
I've a system 2 National model no.CS-MC9CKNG installed in May 2003. Slightly over 10yrs. I only do the servicing myself - simple like cleaning filters, take out casing to clean/vacuum coils with over-the-counter air-cond cleaning agent like Jackie. When the water dripped, i took out the unit and blow/suck the pipe clean.
Everything was ok until 2 days ago. 1 of the room's unit only blows out warm air (even in cool mode). The other room's unit is ok.
I cleaned the filter and coil. It still blows out warm air.
As my outdoor unit (mid floor hdb) is not visible from my room, i can't see whether the fan turns or not when I on the unit.
Can you please let me know what could be the problem? Is it the compressor fault? Is it worth to repair? If yes, what is the charge like.
As an alternative, can you recommend a good system 3 unit (inverter or non). Pls pm me for details. Thanks.
To ktee,
Ur sys has 2 individual compressors.
So maybe one of the compressor serving the fancoil which is not cold is faulty.
Either compressor down or gas shortage.
Have to get a technician to asses first to c if its worthwhile to repair.
Ur sys has 2 individual compressors.
So maybe one of the compressor serving the fancoil which is not cold is faulty.
Either compressor down or gas shortage.
Have to get a technician to asses first to c if its worthwhile to repair.
maxicoolservices
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Hi nWo,
See in Blue
Many thanks for your replies. It is unfortunate that we are not able to do business with you do to tight scheduling.
We should be the one to apologize for not being able to be of service this time round. Do keep us in view for your future servicing needs.
The boss came today to re-look at the house layout, and have proposed a new piping route for the 3 bedrooms. Essentially we won't be hacking any false ceilings.
It is a good thing to know that you will be running new pipings for your new system without needing to do any hacking.
One thing he mentioned is that, our drainage pipes for the 3 blowers are running under the floor, which eventually leads to the drain trap in the kitchen. He has proposed using the same drainage pipes. Is this okay?
We used to have aircon dripping problems (before we did our servicing regularly), and now there is no more such problems.
Would be good to keep up with the regular servicing to maintain the cooling efficiency of your units.
Is there such a thing as vacumming the drainage pipe (to suck out all the standing water) OR cleaning the drainage pipes (to make sure no blockage) prior to installation? I am not sure of the condition of the drainage pipe as it is run under our floor, I believe they are PVC? Are they usually insulated?
Using back the same PVC drainage pipes should be okay however do ensure that your installer flush the pvc pipings thoroughly prior to installation. It would be good to flush the PVC pipings with chemical to get rid of the jelly build up then flush with water. This should be sufficient to clean the pipings. Do check with your installer on this as they might have other suggestions.
Drainage pipings can be either insulated or non-insulated depending on the requirement of the owner during purchase. I would recommend insulated PVC pipings if possible. As for whether your current pipings are insulated, I'm afraid it would not be possible to check as they are concealed under the flooring unless there are some areas that are not concealed. Do check with your installer if they can spot any of these areas. Alternatively some old quotation/invoices might state what were the materials used during the installation of your current unit. Might be able to find some clues there.
We have opted for the Mitsubishi Electric StarMex Inverter System 3 running on R410a gas. (1x MXY-3A28VA, 3x MSY-GE10VA). Using G23 copper pipes with 1/2'' Armaflex insulation.
Choice of system and material looks okay. Do consult your installer on the BTU calculation for your room so that system is not undersize. Some might like larger BTU for their masterbedroom. The installer will be able to advise best as they are there on the spot and can guage better.
Once again, many thanks for your assistance. We are grateful for your help.
You are most welcome. We are glad that the information we provided is of use to you. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you need more information.
Best Regards,
Jason Tham
See in Blue
Many thanks for your replies. It is unfortunate that we are not able to do business with you do to tight scheduling.
We should be the one to apologize for not being able to be of service this time round. Do keep us in view for your future servicing needs.
The boss came today to re-look at the house layout, and have proposed a new piping route for the 3 bedrooms. Essentially we won't be hacking any false ceilings.
It is a good thing to know that you will be running new pipings for your new system without needing to do any hacking.
One thing he mentioned is that, our drainage pipes for the 3 blowers are running under the floor, which eventually leads to the drain trap in the kitchen. He has proposed using the same drainage pipes. Is this okay?
We used to have aircon dripping problems (before we did our servicing regularly), and now there is no more such problems.
Would be good to keep up with the regular servicing to maintain the cooling efficiency of your units.
Is there such a thing as vacumming the drainage pipe (to suck out all the standing water) OR cleaning the drainage pipes (to make sure no blockage) prior to installation? I am not sure of the condition of the drainage pipe as it is run under our floor, I believe they are PVC? Are they usually insulated?
Using back the same PVC drainage pipes should be okay however do ensure that your installer flush the pvc pipings thoroughly prior to installation. It would be good to flush the PVC pipings with chemical to get rid of the jelly build up then flush with water. This should be sufficient to clean the pipings. Do check with your installer on this as they might have other suggestions.
Drainage pipings can be either insulated or non-insulated depending on the requirement of the owner during purchase. I would recommend insulated PVC pipings if possible. As for whether your current pipings are insulated, I'm afraid it would not be possible to check as they are concealed under the flooring unless there are some areas that are not concealed. Do check with your installer if they can spot any of these areas. Alternatively some old quotation/invoices might state what were the materials used during the installation of your current unit. Might be able to find some clues there.
We have opted for the Mitsubishi Electric StarMex Inverter System 3 running on R410a gas. (1x MXY-3A28VA, 3x MSY-GE10VA). Using G23 copper pipes with 1/2'' Armaflex insulation.
Choice of system and material looks okay. Do consult your installer on the BTU calculation for your room so that system is not undersize. Some might like larger BTU for their masterbedroom. The installer will be able to advise best as they are there on the spot and can guage better.
Once again, many thanks for your assistance. We are grateful for your help.
You are most welcome. We are glad that the information we provided is of use to you. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you need more information.
Best Regards,
Jason Tham
ktee
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Hi Jason
Thanks for the fast reply.
Is it possible for you to help me? Pls PM for details. Thanks.
maxicoolservices
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Hi Ktee,
Believed Terumo is the one that have answered your queries.
What he have mentioned is correct.
Other than compressor fault or shortage of gas, another possibility would be outdoor electrical component fault (eg capacitor/pcb)
Do refer back to Terumo for help
Best Regards,
Jason Tham
Believed Terumo is the one that have answered your queries.
What he have mentioned is correct.
Other than compressor fault or shortage of gas, another possibility would be outdoor electrical component fault (eg capacitor/pcb)
Do refer back to Terumo for help
Best Regards,
Jason Tham
Hi Jason
Thanks for the fast reply.
Is it possible for you to help me? Pls PM for details. Thanks.
chincharito
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Thanks to Terumo for his reply
"To Chincharito, most likely ur aircon is dirty, just require servicing.
Maybe general or chemical have to check."
I got a company from groupon to come down today, he looked at my unit and said it is very hard and complicated unit to remove and do proper servicing. He had some trouble removing the casing as the screw is hidden behind the vents. Then after opening the casing, he said that there is this "black wire coil" inside the unit which means he cannot properly clean the inside. So he told me he cannot service and will refund me which was fine.
I told him about the one sided air vent problem and he concluded that needs to do chemical cleaning...he said need to remove whole unit from wall to do it. Then will mount back again.
He quoted $150.
My query
1. Is my unit really so hard to clean?
2. Chemical wash need to remove WHOLE unit down from wall?!
3. $150 fair?
Thanks to the aircon gurus out there in advance!
Angielez
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Thanks Jason.
Terumo, pls PM me for the details. It is very hot n very difficult to sleep at nite. Hope to do it by this weekend. Thanks.
Hi happened to saw this, i have got a good one to recommend. Trilight Singapore. You may want to call Mr Tan at 6633 3006 to seek his advice and he can give you a quote from there.
Angielez
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Bringing the whole unit down is call overhaul. More tedious, thus more expensive as compare to the normal chemical servicing. I know of 1 company that charge lesser than $150. Probably $130 if i never remember wrongly. You can look at my the other post for the person to look for.
nadameyoko
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Power Trip
Power Trip once I switch on my aircon . it has been tested on both room.
what happen? must I call in aircon technician to double check? my aircon is already 10years old.
Power Trip once I switch on my aircon . it has been tested on both room.
what happen? must I call in aircon technician to double check? my aircon is already 10years old.
chanel26
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Go with the inverter aircon if you have high usage on your aircon. It may be more expensive but in the long run you will save more.
You can try get a quote from @bsolute Services: @bsolute Services - Part Time Maid, Carpet Cleaning, Laundry & Aircon Services
nadameyoko
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Hi Terumo,
thanks for the reply
Sorry to ask.. technician meaning electric technician rite?? not aircon service technician??
sorry a bit blur hehe..
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