Air purifier? - Part 2

[testerjp]

It's the brass that release lead, also there are different grades for brass.
Stainless steel will be the safest but stainless steel will eventually rust and has totally no antimicrobial property.
Brass like copper kills microbes naturally and more effectly as it age.
Silver too iirc.

 

[MIVEC525]

Bro, sent you PM.

Still considering.......will let u know pai seh.....

 

[WussRedXLi]

Still considering.......will let u know pai seh.....

No problem, let me know if you are interested.



PS. Anyway, i am letting go of my original authentic Samsung AX40 filters, gotten from Happy Mall previously. Only $55 per pc. (previously selling $110 for 2, splitting them up now).

 

[WussRedXLi]

Indeed.... Risk is probably the highest for the first few months of a new fitting. They mentioned that the chloramine used (we use monochloramine, which alternates between di and trichloramine along the way) do not form that protective oxide layer would.

It's really the last mile......

GPGT bonus pic, my kitchen faucet in which we take our drinking water from.

 

[cc2mss5]

Anyone has taobao link for Samsung ax40 filter. Like to get China type. TIA

 

[WussRedXLi]

Anyone has taobao link for Samsung ax40 filter. Like to get China type. TIA

I am using this guy. This is the same size, but with 45mm depth, only the HEPA media. Airflow speed is like 80-90% of the original Samsung filter despite the deeper depth (deeper pleats). So for sure the CADR would suffer somewhat.
Original samsung HEP portion is like 38mm, with 10mm depth for the activated charcoal.

RMB 115. So basically ~ SGD 30 after factoring in shipping + packaging.
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.3-c.w4002-1526560714.10.gZRvjN&id=522668837488

edit - i think you better aliwangwang him for details. Coz i think this rmb 115 price is 45mm depth HEPA filter. The details also show a black AC layer, in which case he'd probably spec either 30mm or 35mm depth for the HEPA, and the rest for the activated carbon layer.

 

[cc2mss5]

I am using this guy. This is the same size, but with 45mm depth, only the HEPA media. Airflow speed is like 80-90% of the original Samsung filter despite the deeper depth (deeper pleats). So for sure the CADR would suffer somewhat.
Original samsung HEP portion is like 38mm, with 10mm depth for the activated charcoal.

RMB 115. So basically ~ SGD 30 after factoring in shipping + packaging.
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.3-c.w4002-1526560714.10.gZRvjN&id=522668837488

edit - i think you better aliwangwang him for details. Coz i think this rmb 115 price is 45mm depth HEPA filter. The details also show a black AC layer, in which case he'd probably spec either 30mm or 35mm depth for the HEPA, and the rest for the activated carbon layer.

Ok, will msg him. Many thanks

 

[NWT1978]

time sales and if u need it...
http://list.qoo10.sg/item/XIAOMI-XI...E-6-MONTHS-WARRANTY-BEST/526134043?sid=156188

 

[Lucky177]

Xiaomi green enhanced filter. Free delivery. Left 5 pieces.

Assuming using the current qoo10 event $6 cart coupon + 1000 qpoints, one need to only pay $23.90.

http://list.qoo10.sg/item/XIAOMI-AIR-PURIFIER-FILTER-FORMALDEHYDE-REMOVAL-ENHANCED-EDITION/528165229

 

[mosmos]

at qoo10, $80, no need buy expensive bundle~

 

[WussRedXLi]

Found this very good article.
Done in Singapore with pumbling stuff that are available here in SG (all are PUB approved stuff), simulating end-users taps' conditions.
Received: 12 December 2015; Accepted: 23 February 2016; Published: 27 February 2016




www.mdpi.com/1660-4601/13/3/266/pdf



2.1. Simulated Premise Plumbing System
To determine whether lead contamination in drinking water will occur in a “lead-free” premise plumbing system, a typical premise system was built using locally (Singapore) purchased materials as shown in Figure 1.
In Singapore, all water fittings used shall conform with the standards and requirements stipulated by the Public Utilities Board (PUB) and their use shall conform to the Public Utilities (Water Supply) Regulations and Singapore Standard Code of Practice (CP) 48. A water fitting shall be deemed to comply with the stipulated standards if it is certified by an accredited product certification body. The maximum allowable concentrations of metals leached shall not exceed the limits specified by the WHO Guidelines for Drinking Water Quality [28,29]. Copper pipes and brass fittings used in this study were microwave-digested and measured for lead content, and results showed that their lead content was <0.25% by weight, and thus can be considered “lead-free” according to the last “lead-free” definition by USEPA.


Residents moving into new buildings or renovating their plumbing systems are potentially at risk of lead contamination in their drinking water. Lead contamination due to the presence of a lead source is expected to persist for as long as many years if the situation is left untreated or the system is left untouched.


“Lead-free” brass fittings were identified as the source of lead contamination.


The system was assembled in the laboratory using all-new plumbing materials
and only certified copper pipes, brass fittings and stainless steel taps were used without any tapes, sealants and solders that may be present in field sampling. Many studies in the literature used either relatively short lengths of pipe (3 m) or single fittings to represent real distribution systems, while this study is specifically designed to represent real premise plumbing systems that use copper pipes.

The long experimental period allows us to show that lead contamination can be persistent in premise distribution systems and helps to fill the knowledge gap in the existing literature.


Acknowledgments: The authors thank the Singapore Ministry of Education (project number R-302-000-049-112) and National Taiwan University (grant number NTUCDP-103R7877) for financial support.
Author Contributions: Yi-Pin Lin and Ding-Quan Ng conceived and designed the experiments

 

[ralliart12]

Hi fellows. Just sharing something VOC-related I experimented with recently. Placed a can of the following:

1. Nippon anti-mold white paint
2. Kim Tone Polyurethane Varnish
3. Watco Danish Oil

into a fastened ziplock bag & observe how much "VOC" is released in an environment that isn't well-ventilated.

#1
Nippon paint releasing VOC in fastened zip-lock bag

Within half an hour (or less; the first time round I wasn't really monitoring the timing so it could be less) it saturated one of the sensor

#2
Polyurethane Varnish releasing VOC in fastened zip-lock bag

Within 6mins it saturated one of the sensor

#3
Watco Danish oil releasing VOC in fastened zip-lock bag

After 31mins it still haven't saturated any of the sensor

#4
Demonstrating the sensitivity of the sensor; watch the rate at which the readings drop while I vent the air in the ziplock bag. This was actually done after I took the readings from the anti-mold paint:

The worst is the PU varnish; much to my surprise; as I thought the Danish oil will be the worst. Anyway, I guess if we are painting or re-finishing any surfaces, it's better to keep the area of work very well ventilated.

P.S. I dunno why the 2 sensors are showing different readings when they are supposed to be using the same DART sensor component & displaying in the same units.

 

[Alwaysb]

Mi Air Purifier Gen 1

Hi All,

I would like to ask a question.

I have been using Gen 1 for almost a year. Since day 1, I have covered the filter with additional filter sheet bought from taobao.

While I was changing the filter sheet, i noticed the outer layer of the green filter remains clean (i did not remove the thin plastic) I only see dirt in the inner layer of the green filter.

What would be the guideline if the green filter requires a change? Any picture to show please?

 

[Lucky177]

Hi All,

I would like to ask a question.

I have been using Gen 1 for almost a year. Since day 1, I have covered the filter with additional filter sheet bought from taobao.

While I was changing the filter sheet, i noticed the outer layer of the green filter remains clean (i did not remove the thin plastic) I only see dirt in the inner layer of the green filter.

What would be the guideline if the green filter requires a change? Any picture to show please?

I didn't put any additional filter sheet since the existing thin plastic is already the prefilter.

For my case, after few months, when I opened it to see, the "prefilter" already covered full of dust. After clean it off, the green color already no longer green. I will only change after this annual haze period over (after sept-nov).

 

[WussRedXLi]

Hi fellows. Just sharing something VOC-related I experimented with recently. Placed a can of the following:

1. Nippon anti-mold white paint
2. Kim Tone Polyurethane Varnish
3. Watco Danish Oil

into a fastened ziplock bag & observe how much "VOC" is released in an environment that isn't well-ventilated.

Nice one....do you have any type of alcohols? See if the HCHO/Formaldehyde reacts to that.
(HCHO is a VOC, a subset).

Actually you can also drop one or two drop of the Varnish or the oil on a piece of toilet paper or something in a room. Watch it shoot up, use some airflow from the fan to assist.

 

[WussRedXLi]

What would be the guideline if the green filter requires a change? Any picture to show please?

No real hard and fast rule on the frequency of change. If you are living beside some real dusty area like right beside a main road, expressway, slip road/viaduct, construction site, you could be changing every 4-6 months. That's the stuff that'd slip past the prefilters.

Else as long as there is no real drop in airflow, it isn't critical here in SG.

Watch out for any mold growth though, though it's very unlikely in most rooms.

 

[super365]

Hi fellows. Just sharing something VOC-related I experimented with recently. Placed a can of the following:

1. Nippon anti-mold white paint
2. Kim Tone Polyurethane Varnish
3. Watco Danish Oil

into a fastened ziplock bag & observe how much "VOC" is released in an environment that isn't well-ventilated.

#1
Nippon paint releasing VOC in fastened zip-lock bag

Within half an hour (or less; the first time round I wasn't really monitoring the timing so it could be less) it saturated one of the sensor

#2
Polyurethane Varnish releasing VOC in fastened zip-lock bag

Within 6mins it saturated one of the sensor

#3
Watco Danish oil releasing VOC in fastened zip-lock bag

After 31mins it still haven't saturated any of the sensor

#4
Demonstrating the sensitivity of the sensor; watch the rate at which the readings drop while I vent the air in the ziplock bag. This was actually done after I took the readings from the anti-mold paint:

The worst is the PU varnish; much to my surprise; as I thought the Danish oil will be the worst. Anyway, I guess if we are painting or re-finishing any surfaces, it's better to keep the area of work very well ventilated.

P.S. I dunno why the 2 sensors are showing different readings when they are supposed to be using the same DART sensor component & displaying in the same units.

I suggest compare different brands and models of paint. Like maybe most popular model of nippon and ici or other brands. Or maybe compare same brand different models. Because I think paint is unavoidable, need to paint wall sure must paint. So at least can choose the better one.

After painting, the VOC after sometime will auto disappear correct? How many days/months disappear? If no more smelly paint smell is it means no more VOC?

 

[quarkz]

Hi, I have the Samsung AX40 which I bought over a yr ago. The filter seems a bit dusty now. Can I clean it and reuse? Or must I buy new filters. Where's a good place to get the filter? I remember last time there was a link from taobao to get the filters. But if I remembered correctly, they are thicker and some parts have to be removed to fit them in. Can anyone comment? Thanks!

 

[Alwaysb]

Thanks for the response. Oh... so the thin plastic is a "pre-filter"? Not necessary to add the filter sheet anymore?

I didn't put any additional filter sheet since the existing thin plastic is already the prefilter.

For my case, after few months, when I opened it to see, the "prefilter" already covered full of dust. After clean it off, the green color already no longer green. I will only change after this annual haze period over (after sept-nov).

 

[Alwaysb]

I am not so technical to messure the airflow. What condition of the green filter will requires a change in your case? Is the change filter sensor accurate?

My current one is filled with dust here and there. Not the damn dusty condition. Still can see many parts of the green filter.

No real hard and fast rule on the frequency of change. If you are living beside some real dusty area like right beside a main road, expressway, slip road/viaduct, construction site, you could be changing every 4-6 months. That's the stuff that'd slip past the prefilters.

Else as long as there is no real drop in airflow, it isn't critical here in SG.

Watch out for any mold growth though, though it's very unlikely in most rooms.