COE Car?

myviowner

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Test drive before buying. And make sure you test it in the early morning or before they start the car for the day. Touch the bonnet and if it’s cool, you are ready to test the car.

Some dealers cheat on mileage. Look at the condition of the car vis-a-vis the mileage recorded. Does the wear and tear look consistent with the mileage recorded?

More importantly how does the engine sound and how the transmission shifts after first start? Also, observe the exhaust after firing up the car to see if there’s excessive white or black smoke. If there’s a little too much smoke (especially after initial evaporation of water, which is normal) then realise that there might be engine issues like a worn piston ring or head gasket leak. You walk.

Go slow when you test drive for the first 5 mins. Transmission shifts smoothly? Then go abit faster. Check if the car drives straight on a flat and straight road by briefly releasing the steering wheel. Check for any abnormal vibrations at >80km/hr (could be misalignment of tires or more). Test drive it for at least 20mins. If they don’t allow, walk, because they probably have something to hide.

Use a used car checklist to go through items, although I usually only check the major items. Look at engine oil and transmission fluid using the dipstick. Is it blackish or dirty looking? If the transmission fluid has a burnt smell, move on to the next car.

Finally, if you can, get the car scanned using a diagnostic tool that your mechanic would have. Assuming the dealer is comfortable driving down the car to your workshop for inspection. If not, move on.

Quite a few steps to take note but these tips have helped me purchase a number of used (even high mileage) cars without much after sales trouble.

Thanks for the good tips.... Btw, how you check the ATF of those rides that do not have a lipstick to its transmission?
 

hawthorne

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Thanks for the good tips.... Btw, how you check the ATF of those rides that do not have a lipstick to its transmission?
It will be very mahfan for most of us who do not have a workshop. If u have access to a service bay then it easier. Else u need to jack the car up on 4 wheels and make sure it's level. Then remove a screw to check.

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一剪寒梅, 傲立雪中, 只为伊人飘香 using GAGT
 

hawthorne

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I know a friend who always buy cars nearing 8 years old. Logic is so he can zhng and change car every couple of years . Although he is savvy, it's seems like it's a hit and miss. He ever bought a lemon and went to scrape within 2-3 months

The best way is to get a trusted mechanic to see cos we layman only can see the superfical stuffs and do basic checks like see radiator fluid or engine oil color etc.

Maybe insurance can just buy 3rd party, so if car kena accident just go and scrape. Other than that u need to live with the yearly inspection, which is very mahfan. My old ride nearing 10 years always kena wheel alignment failure. YMMV

Sent from 雪花飘飘北风啸啸, 天地一片苍茫
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myviowner

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It will be very mahfan for most of us who do not have a workshop. If u have access to a service bay then it easier. Else u need to jack the car up on 4 wheels and make sure it's level. Then remove a screw to check.

Sent from 雪花飘飘北风啸啸, 天地一片苍茫
一剪寒梅, 傲立雪中, 只为伊人飘香 using GAGT

Thanks. I know which screw you referring now.
 

Ultimate Chicken

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Some random things from my own experience. Can't really teach you how to tell if a seller is being honest or not. Leave it to the more savvy folk.

Terminology:
2H = 2nd Hand
YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary.

The great thing about 2H is that you can find and read/watch reviews of the same make from other countries. That nice vehicle you see on the Used page in sgCarMart? Go google it, reviews, spare parts, the lot. Sort by date and find latest to avoid the reports from the day those cars are brand new. You want long-term and 2H reports, as well as the price and availability of parts.. Maybe you get to listen to some 2H salesmen but you get more actual owners than not, who have dealt with the cost of maintenance and repair. Usually they're more honest because the marketing has long since stopped in favor of the new hawtness. Plus, you get to learn about the vehicle.

When factoring in costs, remember your road tax will probably be (starting road tax * 150%), which should be the road tax after 15 years*. If you do save money from this because it's an overestimation for years 10-15, consider the money saved a bonus to offset your yearly fees.

You'll also want to add 3-5k to the cost of the vehicle for VICOM, first servicing, restoration works (if your car isn't a "--3 years COE left trashmobile"), and the remainder for fun stuff (aftermarket head unit lol)

If you are taking a loan, don't forget to add the interest into the base cost. IMHO, you should pay for your vehicle in full, especially if its 2H - it is a depreciating asset not worth the interest cost, you have maintenance and tax to deal with and don't need any other running cost. If you can't - then maybe you don't have the finances to own a vehicle yet**, ***

Candidates: Instead of looking at just price, look at deprec, then years left on COE, then price, then model production year in that order. Owner count isn't really important unless you're wondering why a 5 year old car already has 3 owners. Get a couple of candidates based on these factors, go test drive them; for each bring a manual inspection checklist - there's one you can download and use somewhere online (google it). Do not agree on the spot (tho you may be very tempted to!), sleep on the decision.

Insurance is a bit difficult TBH... hard to shop around without a prospective purchase and license number, which is irritating AF. (And when you do supply one, you are likely to get a salesperson trying to close you because they think you are collecting the vehicle tomorrow <_<)

* I don't know if it does cap out at year 15.

** If you are buying from a dealer rather than a direct seller - well, they make cash off signing you up on loans and repayments, so YMMV.

*** Apropos of loans, some insurance companies will enforce that you buy complete coverage (instead of cheaper but less coverage 3rd party fire/theft) if you still have a loan to pay off. You also cannot sell or otherwise dispose of the vehicle without clearing it; once again, YMMV.
 

liquidh

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The main issue with COE cars is that of insurance.

Say you pay full cash for a 10 year old car for $80k ($40k COE). If you wreck and total your car (even if someone else is at fault and you had purchased comprehensive insurance), I heard (and this is hearsay), that you only get back $40k (mainly COE rebate) plus 2-3k for scrap metal because what is “market value” for COE cars is really just paper value plus a few k worth for scrap metal.

Not sure if this is true, but because of this reason, some say no point buying comprehensive insurance for COE cars.
 

andyhtc

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The main issue with COE cars is that of insurance.

Say you pay full cash for a 10 year old car for $80k ($40k COE). If you wreck and total your car (even if someone else is at fault and you had purchased comprehensive insurance), I heard (and this is hearsay), that you only get back $40k (mainly COE rebate) plus 2-3k for scrap metal because what is “market value” for COE cars is really just paper value plus a few k worth for scrap metal.

Not sure if this is true, but because of this reason, some say no point buying comprehensive insurance for COE cars.

That is likely true for totalled car. However, if it is minor damage to the insured car, the comprehensive insurance could still cover the repair cost above the excess.
 

goodlife101

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I just renewed my COE car insurance with comprehensive coverage. Got a few quotes from my insurance agent. What surprise me was one company quoted third party insurance about $150+ cheaper than the comprehensive coverage quotes. All quoted much higher than last year average about $200 to $400 higher. All businesses are down due to COVID-19 and the best business to increase profit is the automotives insurance. We car owner do not have any choice but to pay and pay
 

Ultimate Chicken

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I think he meant it's the law to have insurance for a vehicle, and the type of insurance you must buy depends on how your vehicle is financed. I mean, you can choose to play punk or not own a vehicle :X

And I don't think COVID is the cause, prices seem to have been like that since 2019. Plus most sites quote with 50% NCD counted - general maximum - to attract you. I would love to have a compre at <1k too right from the very beginning. <_<'
 

andyhtc

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1.5 L or 1.6L COE Japanese cars are okay. Above that the road tax and for rare continental cars the maintenance costs will be very high.
 

BuGGi3

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Just get a Vios and renew. Altis doesn't sound too bad as well.
 

hoks

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Anyone realise/think that COE exotic/high end car prices getting higher and higher.
 
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