Desktop 2.0 & 2.1 speaker discussion thread VI [consolidated]

lxXXxl

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Just found on youtube that the iLoud Micro Monitors make a low humming sound at 50 - 60 Hz from their ports



Wwenze's own review from many moons ago :s13:
https://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/home-theatre-audiophiles-13/iloud-micro-monitor-part-1-a-5648001.html


Sound quality wise, iLoud should still have the upper hand. Remember that this port chuffing issue is present because they went that low when no other (of the same size) dared to. Genelec started jumping ship at 80hz, can see the steep drop. A2+ (and I'm guessing YU2 as well) starts the steep drop even earlier ~120hz.

The good news is if you use with a sub, then you can crossover at ~65-80hz and remove the work for the iLouds and avoid the chuffing. With the other 3 speakers, you probably have to crossover at higher frequencies at 100-150hz maybe?

So the iLoud's port chuffing is not that serious an issue to me if you have a sub. At least that's my 2 cents. But of course, ultimately you need to feel happy with your purchase la. Just be aware that there're compromises to be made when the speakers have to be this small.
 
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wwenze

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I'm still recommending the iLoud. Because from those videos you linked, it's quite clear that one of them has way more bass extension than the rest.

Just don't go to 80dB and you'll be fine. Safety limit for hearing is 85dB, btw. 80dB is given as the sound of a freight train at 25m away.

If you have a headphone or passive speaker and a multimeter, you can measure how loud you set your volume control at. (Because you have to play a 50Hz signal for the multimeter to be accurate.) And from there calculate the max SPL.

If iLoud is to be avoided for whatever reason, I would say go for 8010A. It's $900 for a pair, tho. The other two I simply can't recommend. I've never heard iLoud distort before, but I have heard A2+ distort when volume is turned up so it's even worse. YU2 has too little information available, but if you can find one to listen then it's up to your ears.

Oh right, point is, if you don't want the iLoud, but somehow has space for something like 8010A, then might as well just squeeze a bit more and get 4" to 5" speakers. Otherwise, it's still iLoud. There's no choice.
 
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Apparatus

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Re

Wwenze's own review from many moons ago :s13:
https://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/home-theatre-audiophiles-13/iloud-micro-monitor-part-1-a-5648001.html


Sound quality wise, iLoud should still have the upper hand. Remember that this port chuffing issue is present because they went that low when no other (of the same size) dared to. Genelec started jumping ship at 80hz, can see the steep drop. A2+ (and I'm guessing YU2 as well) starts the steep drop even earlier ~120hz.

The good news is if you use with a sub, then you can crossover at ~65-80hz and remove the work for the iLouds and avoid the chuffing. With the other 3 speakers, you probably have to crossover at higher frequencies at 100-150hz maybe?

So the iLoud's port chuffing is not that serious an issue to me if you have a sub. At least that's my 2 cents. But of course, ultimately you need to feel happy with your purchase la. Just be aware that there're compromises to be made when the speakers have to be this small.

In one of the reviews of iLoud the Adam Audio Sub7 subwoofer was highly recommended. I would like your opinion whether the two matches sonically?

https://www.adam-audio.com/en/subwoofers/sub7/
 

Apparatus

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Re

I'm still recommending the iLoud. Because from those videos you linked, it's quite clear that one of them has way more bass extension than the rest.

Just don't go to 80dB and you'll be fine. Safety limit for hearing is 85dB, btw. 80dB is given as the sound of a freight train at 25m away.

If you have a headphone or passive speaker and a multimeter, you can measure how loud you set your volume control at. (Because you have to play a 50Hz signal for the multimeter to be accurate.) And from there calculate the max SPL.

If iLoud is to be avoided for whatever reason, I would say go for 8010A. It's $900 for a pair, tho. The other two I simply can't recommend. I've never heard iLoud distort before, but I have heard A2+ distort when volume is turned up so it's even worse. YU2 has too little information available, but if you can find one to listen then it's up to your ears.

Oh right, point is, if you don't want the iLoud, but somehow has space for something like 8010A, then might as well just squeeze a bit more and get 4" to 5" speakers. Otherwise, it's still iLoud. There's no choice.

So you still have the iLoud or had them replaced with a better desktop set?


:D
 
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wwenze

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It's with my brother who doesn't live with me. He needed something and I had a storeroom of stuff. I recommended the R2000DB but he ended up taking the iLoud because to normal people, big speakers are too big.

Well, iLoud still isn't a replacement for bigger speakers. Especially when 305P is selling at $350 a pair. How's anything going to fight that.

My Ushers with bass boost goes 40Hz, so... nope, not gonna get replaced by the iLoud. I have enough power to go 30Hz if I want, too.
 

lxXXxl

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It's with my brother who doesn't live with me. He needed something and I had a storeroom of stuff. I recommended the R2000DB but he ended up taking the iLoud because to normal people, big speakers are too big.

Yes, family members of audiophiles don't understand how lucky they are sometimes... :s13:
 

AZE

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I'm still recommending the iLoud. Because from those videos you linked, it's quite clear that one of them has way more bass extension than the rest.

Just don't go to 80dB and you'll be fine. Safety limit for hearing is 85dB, btw. 80dB is given as the sound of a freight train at 25m away.

If you have a headphone or passive speaker and a multimeter, you can measure how loud you set your volume control at. (Because you have to play a 50Hz signal for the multimeter to be accurate.) And from there calculate the max SPL.

If iLoud is to be avoided for whatever reason, I would say go for 8010A. It's $900 for a pair, tho. The other two I simply can't recommend. I've never heard iLoud distort before, but I have heard A2+ distort when volume is turned up so it's even worse. YU2 has too little information available, but if you can find one to listen then it's up to your ears.

Oh right, point is, if you don't want the iLoud, but somehow has space for something like 8010A, then might as well just squeeze a bit more and get 4" to 5" speakers. Otherwise, it's still iLoud. There's no choice.

decibel_exposure_chart.gif


Standard Exposure Limits, different standards are mostly within +/- 3dB.

At <80dB peak, basically one could listen 24/7 without issues.

The issue about port turbulence is mostly during loud transient LFE during movies or certain genre of music at high volumes. iLoud should do fine other than in those areas or when paired with a sub.:o
 

Clearnfc

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http://noaudiophile.com/IK_Multimedia_iLoudMM/

IK_Multimedia_IloudMM_Measurements_Bass_RTA.jpg



The usual issue with small ports trying to force low FR at high volume(hence high port displacement volume) leading to massive port turbulence and SPL compression, and also issues with amp/dsp power/compression/distortion limits. :o

There is always a trade off unfortunately.:o

NICE!! VERY NICE!!

This is what I really want to see from reviews. I don't think we can see this compression effect in just a simple tone test or frequency response graph. I really hope more and more reviews could show such info.

WHo knows, maybe one day, we can tell from the graph the characteristic of the speaker (imaging, timing etc....) I really feel its all there waiting for us to discover it.
 
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wwenze

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NICE!! VERY NICE!!

This is what I really want to see from reviews. I don't think we can see this compression effect in just a simple tone test or frequency response graph. I really hope more and more reviews could show such info.

WHo knows, maybe one day, we can tell from the graph the characteristic of the speaker (imaging, timing etc....) I really feel its all there waiting for us to discover it.

Compression effect shows up as harmonic distortion. The soft clipping vs hard clipping is the same concept.
 

benedium

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I hope one day the science people make it easier for normal consumer. Like Windows vs DOS.
 
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wwenze

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I hope one day the science people make it easier for normal consumer. Like Windows vs DOS.

Means when you play "Down with the sickness", instead of "O wah ah ah ah" you hear "O wah ah ew oh"
 

hotspur_77

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Hi all

I'm using Altec lasing MX5021 for my desktop for gaming and movie purposes, the speakers have served me more than 10 years and still working well but dust cover edges of speakers and sub woofer are badly worn, speakers cone are damaged and cover of sub is loose.

Should i bring the for repair, purchased Edifier R1850DB and pair it with MX5021 sub woofer or just purchase Logitech Z625?


Thanks...
 
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benedium

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To use with r1850db, u probably need a subwoofer with phase adjustment as well as crossover adjustment.
 
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nod32fan

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I went to audition a JBL Quantum Duo at a near empty Challenger store and was impressed by the wide sound stage that I could perceive. This is the right sized speaker for my desk.

Is there another similar sized 2.0 speaker that I could/should go audition?
 

zephyr11

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^^^^^^

there's a few from edifier, iloud (i think). can go back a few pages, quite a few ppl asking similar stuff.
 
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