Gundam Modeling Official thread - Part 5

tanyieern

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wat color do you think is nice for e inner frame?

Flourescent Red!!!!!!:s12::s12::s12:

im not really sure... I have so many questions=:p red for the inner frame would be unique, but it would not have the contrast of black against red.

q1, for painting inner frame, hand or spray paint? according to bandai, using laquer paint on abs plastic cause it to become more fragile.

q2, entire frame or certain parts(e.g. parts seeable by armor separation)? Rg colours are really good(4 different colours just for the feet), painting the inner frame (e.g. pink) would lose its vibrancy...

q3, thinner to paint ratio for hand painting. I can't seem to find the ratio... for airbrush is 3:1-2:1, but hand painting has no instructions on mixing.

Thanks alot!
 

tanyieern

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Tamiya Gun Metal spraycan x 2 and problem solved.

Isnt the paint Laquer? Im quoting another guys experience:

I had to learn this the hard way, just thought I'd share with you guys so you don't make the same mistake I did.

I've built a couple of PG Gundams before (GP01 and Strike) and painted them with lacquer paints. A couple of times some of the pieces just fell (not snapped) off and broke by themselves. At first I thought it was just bad luck or poor quality plastic by Bandai. Anyway, the pieces that did break off were not crucial to the movement of the Gunpla and it was nothing a little cement couldn't fix.

Until just recently I had completed a PG Strike Freedom. I painted the gold parts with metallic brass by Mr Color. Just as I was posing the model, the entire left leg felt flimsy and fell right off the waist. I was shocked. The joint had broken in two. Then I checked the right leg and found that the male joint that connects the leg to the waist also had cracks in it and was also flimsy.

At this point I was really pissed and figured that I can't be so unlucky, so did a check online and found out that lacquer based paints (Mr Color and Mr Hobby) make ABS plastics brittle. ABS plastics are used for Gundam joints.

Luckily for me the left leg was cementable, but the right leg less so. Looks like I have to give up movement of the right leg. If you're curious, I didn't use primer because I don't change the original color of the model.

Sigh. A very costly lesson for me, hope you guys learn from it.

So how?
 

Blusttoy

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As raised by Ongkh2000 and probably the other older posts, primer => paint => topcoat will get you your results.

I'm not sure about handpainting but I think you're gonna have a hard time if you don't have a primer layer on too. I would go for paint retarder as well.

Also, currently in progress for me:

FrontWIPGR.jpg

BackWIPGR.jpg


While building it, I'm impressed by the rather tall and bulky build but after comparison with the 2 kits, Zeta and Banshee, it seemed weird. Maybe because I didn't expect the Banshee to be so much taller or that the Zeta to feel small compared to ReZEL.

HeightComparison.jpg
 

tanyieern

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As raised by Ongkh2000 and probably the other older posts, primer => paint => topcoat will get you your results.

I'm not sure about handpainting but I think you're gonna have a hard time if you don't have a primer layer on too. I would go for paint retarder as well.

Isnt tamiya surface primer laquer too?

Im quoting this from mr hobby:

「ABS樹脂」パーツに塗装すると、樹脂に塗料が浸透して、パーツが脆くなり、割れたりすることがあります。組み立て説明書やパーツランナーの表示をご確認のうえ、「ABS樹脂」への使用は避けてください。

"ABS plastic" to paint the parts, paint and resin penetration, and brittle parts, or you may crack. After confirming our view of the assembly instructions and parts runner, "ABS plastic" Please avoid to use.

link:http://www.mr-hobby.com/itemlist/pg12.html

Help?
 
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Cleaver

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tried with 600 and 1000 sandpaper but it still looks dull. Tried using tamiya polishing compound (coarse and fine). The look is not the same... Does top coating fix this?

Why you go and use coarse? Its like un doing your 1000 sanding
 

Cleaver

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Isnt tamiya surface primer laquer too?

Im quoting this from mr hobby:

「ABS樹脂」パーツに塗装すると、樹脂に塗料が浸透して、パーツが脆くなり、割れたりすることがあります。組み立て説明書やパーツランナーの表示をご確認のうえ、「ABS樹脂」への使用は避けてください。

"ABS plastic" to paint the parts, paint and resin penetration, and brittle parts, or you may crack. After confirming our view of the assembly instructions and parts runner, "ABS plastic" Please avoid to use.

Help?

Try it on ur own on a hg kit, so far I've no issue with it on both hg and mg
don't prime and paint too thick, especially in between those movable joints
 

tanyieern

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Why you go and use coarse? Its like un doing your 1000 sanding

it does? i didnt notice... it looks more shiny after coarse. So just use fine?

i was referring to this guide when polishing:Gundam tutorial 1 – How to remove nubs with polishing compound « The Toy Room

Try it on ur own on a hg kit, so far I've no issue with it on both hg and mg
don't prime and paint too thick, especially in between those movable joints

Hg kits have inner frame? Which one?
 
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Blusttoy

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Since your concern is with ABS parts being brittle, locate the ABS runners and you could try spraying it on the waste sprue and see if it really turns brittle easily.
 

sliver0503

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As raised by Ongkh2000 and probably the other older posts, primer => paint => topcoat will get you your results.

I'm not sure about handpainting but I think you're gonna have a hard time if you don't have a primer layer on too. I would go for paint retarder as well.

Also, currently in progress for me:

FrontWIPGR.jpg

BackWIPGR.jpg


While building it, I'm impressed by the rather tall and bulky build but after comparison with the 2 kits, Zeta and Banshee, it seemed weird. Maybe because I didn't expect the Banshee to be so much taller or that the Zeta to feel small compared to ReZEL.

HeightComparison.jpg

nice, really appreciate u sharing your wip pics. seldom see tat ard here nowadays..
 

Cleaver

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xfiles_wolvie

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Hi bros,

hows everyone? so busy....hows everyone holding up?

gog to post the zhan he shen photos soon...took like 4 months isit? I lost count....:s13:
 
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