Japan Trip Report May 21 ~ Jun 1: Tokyo, Sendai, Tateyama, Sapporo

Deathskull88

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Isn't baseball like...boring?:D

Kifo: That's good haha, the less tourists the better. Better still if the China tourists are too scared to go, more space for everyone:s13:
 

flame_angel

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I think it is hard sell to get many Singaporean tourists to visit Sendai in the near future. I hope to visit the Sanriku coast sometime soon. And maybe visit Amachan's hometown. :D

I want to visit Amachan's hometown too!
 

flame_angel

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Day 6: Tateyama (i)

The Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route is located in the Northern Japan Alps. Despite the name "Northern Japan", it is not located in the Tohoku region but the Hokuriku region, consisting of Ishikawa, Fukui, Niigata and Toyama Prefectures.

You can embark on the route via Toyama City in Toyama Prefecture or Shinano Omachi in Nagano Prefecture and depart via the other, or do a round trip. Various modes of transport involved, from trolley buses to cable cars. The highest point on the route is Murodo, a mountain plain at 2450m above sea level.

If you are interested in hiking, there are various routes documented. For example, a 6-day hike from Tateyama to Kamikochi.

The most amazing thing about Tateyama, apart from the spectacular public transport system unimaginable on mountains so high, is that you can see snow, lots of snow, up till July. The most famous landmark of all is the Murodo snow corridor. Buses will go past a road lined by snow piled up to 15-20 meters high.


The whole mountain is closed during winter, as Northern Japan Alps is assailated by merciless snow storms. In early April, a team will go up the mountain and work endlessly to pave ways for the mountain's yearly opening in mid-April. This year, the route is opened from April 16 to November 30. The chances of snow in April, May, October and November are quite high, so please be prepared.

I highly recommend backpacking for this route. There are many many stairs and an additional fee imposed on bigger or heavier lugguages. If you have to travel with your lugguage, please refer to the official site below for baggage delivery services.

Useful sites first!

Japan Guide
- Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (Tateyama Kurobe Alpen Route) Travel Guide
- Useful as always

Official site
- Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route – Official Website
- Excellent source of information regarding activites and transport time-table

Weather (Japanese)
- 立山室å*‚ 山岳スã‚*ー情å*±
- Most weather sites don't provide Tateyama's weather

Tateyama Girl blog (Japanese)
- 立山ガール日記 ~245ï¼*メートルã*‹ã‚‰ã*®ä¾¿ã‚Šï½ž
- Blog updated daily by the local team in Tateyama, filled with lots of information about the activities you can do and weather conditions


*****

Most tour groups doing the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route would spend a night at the foot of the mountains (eg in Toyama) and do a quick walkthrough the different modes of transport. To fully explore the area, spending a night or two is recommended. There are several options available for accomodation.

I planned to travel from Tokyo and spend a night a Murodo, the highest point in the route.

The train to Toyama took 4 hours, with transfers at Omiya and Echigo Yuzawa. All JR trains so can be covered by JR pass. The next leg is local Dentsu Toyama train from Toyama to Tateyama, a 1-hour train ride. You can buy a ticket package that will last you all the way from Toyama to Ogizawa at Toyama. You have to buy a bus ticket at Ogizawa to go to Shinano Omachi, the nearest JR station.

Bento on the way
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Toyama City
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Dentsu Toyama, the local Toyama trainline that goes to Tateyama
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Small little train
Most stations don't have gantries. Very interesting to see how the conductor ran in and out to collect tickets.
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I didn't take much pictures of the different modes transport >< But there are a lot of pictures and videos online so a quick Google search should point you there.
 
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flame_angel

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Day 6: Tateyama (ii)

The weather forecast stated that it would rain, and boy, it did pour. We were really looking forward to explore the area, the rain dampened our moods a lot.

Pouring rain =((
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Snow corridor view from the bus
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We made it to Murodo in one piece, nothing too difficult as directions were very clear and there was shelther all the way. (The bus driver held an umbrella to cover the open area between the boarding curb and bus, impressive.)

Our accomodation for the night was Mikurigaike Onsen.

There are 3 places you can stay at Murodo
1. Hotel Tateyama
- Right on top of Murodo station.

2. Mikurigaike Onsen
- 15mins walk from Murodo station
- Cheaper at around 9000-10000yen per night, excellent reviews
- The blog is very interesting as well, do check out the link on the official site.

3. Raichousou (雷鳥荘)
- 30mins walk from Murodo station
- Around same price as Mikurigaike Onsen, excellent reviews but fewer reviews (perhaps due to its distance from the station)

*Raichou (雷鳥) is actually a bird named "rock ptarmigan". You can find them on Tateyama if you are lucky. Apparently, its feathers turns white during winter season, and will slowly turn into its original colour of spotted brown as the weather grows warmer.



Anyway, one important point to take note is, there are no proper pathways from Murodo Station to Mikurigaike Onsen or Raichousou when there is still snow, be prepared to hike up and down on slopes of snow.



When we reached Murodo Station, I asked a counter lady on how to get to the onsen. She mentioned nicely that I had to go to the third level of the station, exit there (only one exit), and take the marked parth (only one path) and walk for 15mins. Despite the rain, we happily walked to the exit. We were a little stunned by the endless slopes of snow in front of us but decided to give it a go anyway.

That was our first time walking on snow (it was more like ice...) and the pouring rain didn't help either. We barely walked 100m after 10mins, and the wind and rain were getting bigger with no one else in sight. We decided that to head back to the station and ask for help.

Another counter lady kindly advised us to call the onsen for a guide so we used to a public phone to call the onsen. Luckily we had the phone number noted down. The internet connection was rather weak inside the building.

The onsen staff were extremely nice. They even checked with us what we were wearing, and promised a guide who would reach in 30mins. We were very ill-prepared on hindsight, with only waterproof jackets, gloves and Timberland shoes that were not made to walk in deep snow.

While waiting for the guide, we went to send our postcards from the second highest postbox in Japan! (I am guessing that the highest is Mount Fuji.) There were a lot tourists as well, mostly Taiwanese tour groupds, doing the same thing.


The guide from onsen appeared 20mins later with waterproof parkas and pants, thick waterproof gloves and even visors. (And if I made add, he was a very good-looking guide.) He even offered to carry our hand lugguage for us! A lady happened to be heading towards the onsen too so the four of us set off.

My friend and I were really really slow but they were very nice and made sure that they were not wakling too far ahead. As we walked back to the station the next day, we still couldn't believe how we managed to make it to the onsen with all the rain, wind, slush and steep slopes. We were glad that we decided to call up, Given the terrible weather conditions, it would have been a dangerous walk for people who are not used to walking in snow. The hotel staff speaks some English so please don't hesitate to call them up if you aren't sure.
 
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flame_angel

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Day 6: Tateyama (iii)

Enough of words, let's get down to pictures.

Mikurigake Onsen is a very sturdy building of two floors. First floor consists of common areas like snow boots storage area, a small restaurant that is open to public as well, kitchen, dining area and onsen. Rooms are on second floors.

Rooms
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There are tatami rooms and shared bunks. We took bunks but snagged a whole room to ourselves as there were no many people around.

Bunk bed
Essentially a huge wooden bed with 4 sets of futons on top and bottom.
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You can drap curtains around yourself. Individual reading light and powerpoint. Very comfortable.
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Overcast skies outside.
The rain didn't stop. There went the plans for sunset viewing.
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English menu for food tickets. The onsen is quite tourist-friendly.
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Star-gazing session
The onsen holds a star-gazing session every night. Cancelled the night we were there due to bad weather conditions =((
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Onsen!!!
Source of onsen is from Jigokudani, a valley sprouting sulphuric gases and boiling water, located below Mikurigaike Onsen hotel. (Mikurigaike Onsen is the highest onsen in Japan)
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The onsen itself was very good. Not too hot, not too cold, one that I could stay in for a good 20mins. The view from the onsen was spectacular too, overlooking valleys of snow mountains with a steaming Jikokudani in the middle. My friend went 3 times during our short stay, I went twice.


Dinner spread
I couldn't believe the variety and how sumptious this dinner was. As many reviews of this onsen had mentioned, it didn't feel like we were living on a mountain.
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It continued to rain through the night. I was terribly worned out by the constant travels and the tiring walk earlier in the day so I sleept at a whopping 8pm.
 
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flame_angel

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Day 7: Tateyama (iv)

I woke up at 4am for sunrise, but it was still raining. Napped a little and the rain stopped when I woke up again! So we went exploring outside.

Gorgeous<3
I was kind of upset with the bad weather, but it was all worth it.
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Went back to onsen for breakfast. Excellent food.

Buffet style!
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Continued to explore the area outside onsen after breakfast. The views were breathtaking.

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I highly recommend you to go beyond Murodo Station if you were to visit Tateyama. The view around the onsen area is way more majestic compared to the area around the station. There's nothing much there actually. I can't emphasise this enough.


Shooting in snow proved to be quite a challenge. A lot of my pictures were overexposed or grayish. Still in the process of upgrading from point-and-shoot cameras...

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Snow at peaks have already melted. I feel that the contrast between earth and now adds to its beauty.

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The steaming part at the bottom right hand corner is Jikokudani. It was closed when we were there as it was emitting poisonous gases.

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flame_angel

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Day 7: Tateyama (v)

Paranoma shots with my phone.

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I would like to bring a chair out, sip on a cup of coffee and bask in this majestic beauty. Alas, we had to head back. And with heavy hearts, we slowly plough our way back to Murodo Station.

Picture of the onsen halfway to Murodo Station
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We took a slow walk back, trying not to slip on melting ice and taking a lot of pictures.


Hikers
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We had an large umbrella with us and I tried stabbing it into the snow. The snow was at least 50cm thick...


Cute father and son who were staying with us in the same onsen.
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zetsueix

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I think it is hard sell to get many Singaporean tourists to visit Sendai in the near future. I hope to visit the Sanriku coast sometime soon. And maybe visit Amachan's hometown. :D
You can just imagine the horrors the ppl around me expressed when I said I am going Sendai and Tohoku region for my May trip. In fact, most of my frens are not that keen to travel to the surrounding area of Sendai but I always wanted to travel to the Tohoku region so I decide to go on my own instead, and get to meet up with a fren in Sendai too!

I didnt have the time to visit the Sanriku coastline, and some of the towns I think are still undergoing reconstruction, I am not sure if I had the heart to withstand alot of things there. On my way to Shiroishi from Sendai, I also came across the temporary housings for the earthquake/tsunami refugees. Sendai city was quite affected by the flooding during the Tohoku earthquake and some places will indicate photos and marking to indicate the water level during the flood. I really just have to say that, do not avoid Sendai or the Tohoku region, you have to visit the city to see for yourself just how resilient the human spirit is on the course of recovery!

Yes! We discussed a little in our previous thread. I wished I had more time in Sendai to explore surrounding areas. Definitely will be back for more.

Sorry to hear that your concert was cancelled. Japanese baseball matches are quite an eye-opener. A lot of people got dead drunk at the Hanshin Tigers game I went @@

Date Masamune is awesome. I can't pick a favourite Sengoku general, don't know enough. >< I am quite biased towards Kuroda Kanbee though. Need to get around watching his Taiga drama this year.
Yeah! Hahaha but I wasnt very fond of Zunda mochi though! I bought back the kitkat and I was like urrrghhh too. I think that Sendai is a great base to do travelling to the surrounding areas!

Oh well, I am just not very fated with the concert! I love Sengoku history and I am really in Sendai purely for Date Masamune, yeah, I did mostly the Date Masamune sites and then to Shiroishi cos it is his general, Katakura Kojuro's domain. Even the onsen I went was because of its history with Date Clan, hahahaa. Oh manz, I just love the current Taiga, Gunshi Kanbei too! I think I will landed up at Himeji soon cos of Kuroda Kanbei!


Isn't baseball like...boring?:D

Kifo: That's good haha, the less tourists the better. Better still if the China tourists are too scared to go, more space for everyone:s13:

As for the baseball match, honestly my fren and I know nothing about baseball but there are posters plastered everywhere! We even thought that the Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles based in Sendai are a so-so team only, and later to find out they actually won the league the previous season, and therefore the team was wildly popular then! Whatever I know bout baseball comes from anime and jdrama so we ended up wikipedia-ing baseball during the game actually. =X

Yeah! 1 thing I enjoyed bout my Tohoku travels is there isnt much tourists whether is it local or overseas! Everywhere I went is relatively uncrowded!

BTW, I love your update on Tateyama! I hope I can do the route next yr!
 
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flame_angel

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Day 7: Tateyama (vi)

The main area in front of Murodo Station on Tateyama. Populated by many tour groups from all over the way.
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The famous landmark of Tateyama, snow valley, 2390m above sea level
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There were a couple of snow-related activities going on, one of which was the snow maze!
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White, white snow walls taller than me.
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Two machines that ploughed the way through the thick snow on Tateyama.
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The mountains and snow on this side of the station were not as majestic and way dirtier. =(
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flame_angel

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Day 7: Tateyama (vii)

The weather was beautiful.
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The highest point of the snow valley, towering over everything at 13m tall.
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More than two times taller than a big tour bus.
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We did a quick descend to Kuroba dam. The amount of snow steadily decreased as more greenery appeared.
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I was sad to leave all the snow behind, but Kurobe dam was absolutely gorgeous with the clear, blue-green lake.
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There was an activity on the Traditional Chinese poster. (Not on the Japanese one surprisingly.) Collect all stamps at different areas of the dam to redeem a magnet.
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Lunch was Kurobe dam curry. Starting from the left...
- green veg: mountains with greenery
- white veg: snow-capped mountains
- white rice: dam
- curry sauce: lake water
- fried croquette: cruise ships (only available from mid-June)
It took us a good few minutes to figure it out.
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With that, our Tateyama trip ended and we headed back to Tokyo!
 
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flame_angel

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Day 8: Shizuoka day trip (i)

The next day was a day trip to Shimizu in Shizuoka prefecture, to visit Chibi Maruko-chan Land! I think most of us here will know her more fondly as 樱桃小丸子. Shimizu is the hometown of Chibi Maruko manga's author, and the story of Chibi Maruko also takes place in Shimizu.

Cute Maruko-chan welcoming us at Shimizu Station.
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Free shuttle bus to the building that houses other shops as well.
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Chibi Maruko-chan Land!
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Live installations of typical scenes in the anime/manga.
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Down to school's shoes lockers.
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Original manga.
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flame_angel

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Day 8: Shizuoka day trip (ii)

Like many other places in Japan, answering some questions or completing the stamps can give a small reward.
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Original sketches for the manga.
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Goods shop. A heaven for Chibi Maruko-chan friends. They have everything from green tea to iphone cases to notebooks.
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A real postbox! I used it:s13:
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And a shrine.
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Shimizu port, right next to the shopping centre with Chibi Maruko-chan Land
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flame_angel

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Day 9: Tokyo

Went to Ueno to drop my lugguage, walked around a little and decided to go Harajuku on a whim.

I love the wooden train station.
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Takeshita Street
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Butter chips, while freshly fried, were a little too different from conventional chips for my liking.
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Realised that I haven't been to Meiji Shrine yet despite going to Tokyo so many times and swung by.

Lovely quiet area unimaginable in Tokyo.
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flame_angel

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Day 9-10: Tokyo to Sapporo on Hokutosei (i)

Went back to Ueno around evening time to grab some food before the 17-hour train ride to Sapporo.

Passengers and train fans started milling around the platform at around 6:30pm, awaiting the arrival of Hokutosei.

Mark on the platform indicating which cars.
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Signature blue train slowly chugging into a stop.
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Shared bunk in Car 2. The upper right one was where I spent the next 17hours.
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Rushed down to the dining car to make reservations for shower rooms. The dining car looks straight out of a 80s American movie.
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Lounge area, shower rooms are just behind the TV.
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Back to the bed.
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Lugguage deposite area. Spacious enough for a hand-carry luggage.
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Shower room card
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flame_angel

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Day 9-10: Tokyo to Sapporo on Hokutosei (ii)

The train left Ueno promptly at around 7pm. Perhaps due to its age, I found it a lot shakier than normal trains. I got a little dizzy and immediately went to sleep after showering.

Woke up to this the next morning. :) Life is good.
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Was contemplating if I should leave the train to catch the changing of locomotives at Hakodate at 5am. I would love to sleep in but heck, I shouldn't let my laziness be an excuse for not getting the full experience.

Workers at work
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The crowd, mostly passengers, at 5am in the morning.
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flame_angel

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Day 9-10: Tokyo to Sapporo on Hokutosei (iii)

As the train continued on its journey north towards Sapporo, I took another nap and went for breakfast at the dining car.

1650yen is much more affordable than the 5500yen dinners. No reservations required too.
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None of the pre-packed microwave food. All freshly prepared by the chef onboard!
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Definitely one of the best breakfasts I had in my life. It was sooo good.
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Coffee and desserts (a pudding) were served after the food. Sipping on my hot coffee as I looked at the vast Pacific Ocean going by. Hardly anything better in life than this.
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Pulled out a little seat and chilled by the window.
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Final destination, Sapporo Station. The train was around 15mins late.
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All in all, a lovely train ride that was one heck of an experience.
 

kifo

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You didn't manage to reserve for the french dinning experience? Wasted leh... :)
 
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