Mazda drivers come in here!

[Cumzilla]

Hi all, seeking advice from Mazda owners / car experts here

I’m the first in my family to purchase a car, so still quite new to car ownership. I recently bought a second-hand PARF Mazda 3 with about 3 years left, mileage around 110,000km++. Intended use is as a family car, so reliability and servicing are very important to me.

Recently, quite a few issues started showing up:

• Side mirror (driver side) – no longer folds in, passenger side works fine
• Driver seat adjustment – power seems weak and very clunky when adjusting (shared between my father, brother, and myself)
• Loud engine sound on cold start – noticeable when starting the car, but I’m unable to diagnose further (https://streamable.com/vguh2a)
• Blue temperature warning light – takes close to 5 minutes to disappear; I usually wait for it to go off before driving (not sure if this is normal across cars)
• Car veers to the left – tested at low speed in an empty carpark, when I release the steering wheel, the car consistently pulls left
• Aircon not very cold – compared to colleagues’ older Toyotas, cooling feels weak
• With all these issues, I went back to the AD (Mazda). They told me the previous owner did not service with them, and the last recorded service was Mar 2020.

They quoted me:

• $210 checking fee
• $2,075 for a “120,000km / 6 years Major Service Package”, which includes:
  • Engine oil & oil filter
  • Decarbonising service
  • Spark plugs
  • Air-con filter, air filter, fuel filter
  • Brake fluid replacement
  • Brake service & inspection
  • Wheel balancing & rotation
  • Alignment check (adjustment +$80 if needed)
  • 21-point inspection

Additional quotes:

• Side mirror motor replacement: $255
• If whole mirror assembly jammed: $675
• Any other wear & tear parts found during servicing will be extra

I understand cars are expensive to maintain, but honestly I didn’t expect the cost to be this high. My colleague bought an older COE Toyota with only 3 years COE left, and he hasn’t encountered such issues and spends max $100+ on servicing each time.

To add on, I recently changed the capacitor at Mazda for $2199.69, as I kept getting dashboard error messages. Mazda diagnosed it as a faulty capacitor.

My questions to seniors here:

• Are these issues normal for a Mazda 3 at this mileage/age?
• Is the AD major service package reasonably priced, or am I better off going to a reputable workshop?
• In terms of safety / not breaking down. Should I proceed with the servicing? My friend urged me to just ignore them and as long as the car works, its all good.

Appreciate any advice or sharing of experience. Still learning, so please go easy on me
Thanks in advance!

For side mirror, look up at carousell. There are FL fixing it at less than half the price quoted by TEK. I engaged one at Punggol and he fixed for me but the issue recurred after few weeks. Went back and he replaced the motor with a so called more powerful version and it is working without any issues since then...

 

[EJB]

Hi all, seeking advice from Mazda owners / car experts here

I’m the first in my family to purchase a car, so still quite new to car ownership. I recently bought a second-hand PARF Mazda 3 with about 3 years left, mileage around 110,000km++. Intended use is as a family car, so reliability and servicing are very important to me.

Recently, quite a few issues started showing up:

• Side mirror (driver side) – no longer folds in, passenger side works fine
• Driver seat adjustment – power seems weak and very clunky when adjusting (shared between my father, brother, and myself)
• Loud engine sound on cold start – noticeable when starting the car, but I’m unable to diagnose further (https://streamable.com/vguh2a)
• Blue temperature warning light – takes close to 5 minutes to disappear; I usually wait for it to go off before driving (not sure if this is normal across cars)
• Car veers to the left – tested at low speed in an empty carpark, when I release the steering wheel, the car consistently pulls left
• Aircon not very cold – compared to colleagues’ older Toyotas, cooling feels weak
• With all these issues, I went back to the AD (Mazda). They told me the previous owner did not service with them, and the last recorded service was Mar 2020.

They quoted me:

• $210 checking fee
• $2,075 for a “120,000km / 6 years Major Service Package”, which includes:
  • Engine oil & oil filter
  • Decarbonising service
  • Spark plugs
  • Air-con filter, air filter, fuel filter
  • Brake fluid replacement
  • Brake service & inspection
  • Wheel balancing & rotation
  • Alignment check (adjustment +$80 if needed)
  • 21-point inspection

Additional quotes:

• Side mirror motor replacement: $255
• If whole mirror assembly jammed: $675
• Any other wear & tear parts found during servicing will be extra

I understand cars are expensive to maintain, but honestly I didn’t expect the cost to be this high. My colleague bought an older COE Toyota with only 3 years COE left, and he hasn’t encountered such issues and spends max $100+ on servicing each time.

To add on, I recently changed the capacitor at Mazda for $2199.69, as I kept getting dashboard error messages. Mazda diagnosed it as a faulty capacitor.

My questions to seniors here:

• Are these issues normal for a Mazda 3 at this mileage/age?
• Is the AD major service package reasonably priced, or am I better off going to a reputable workshop?
• In terms of safety / not breaking down. Should I proceed with the servicing? My friend urged me to just ignore them and as long as the car works, its all good.

Appreciate any advice or sharing of experience. Still learning, so please go easy on me
Thanks in advance!

Hi all, seeking advice from Mazda owners / car experts here

I’m the first in my family to purchase a car, so still quite new to car ownership. I recently bought a second-hand PARF Mazda 3 with about 3 years left, mileage around 110,000km++. Intended use is as a family car, so reliability and servicing are very important to me.

Recently, quite a few issues started showing up:

• Side mirror (driver side) – no longer folds in, passenger side works fine
• Driver seat adjustment – power seems weak and very clunky when adjusting (shared between my father, brother, and myself)
• Loud engine sound on cold start – noticeable when starting the car, but I’m unable to diagnose further (https://streamable.com/vguh2a)
• Blue temperature warning light – takes close to 5 minutes to disappear; I usually wait for it to go off before driving (not sure if this is normal across cars)
• Car veers to the left – tested at low speed in an empty carpark, when I release the steering wheel, the car consistently pulls left
• Aircon not very cold – compared to colleagues’ older Toyotas, cooling feels weak
• With all these issues, I went back to the AD (Mazda). They told me the previous owner did not service with them, and the last recorded service was Mar 2020.

They quoted me:

• $210 checking fee
• $2,075 for a “120,000km / 6 years Major Service Package”, which includes:
  • Engine oil & oil filter
  • Decarbonising service
  • Spark plugs
  • Air-con filter, air filter, fuel filter
  • Brake fluid replacement
  • Brake service & inspection
  • Wheel balancing & rotation
  • Alignment check (adjustment +$80 if needed)
  • 21-point inspection

Additional quotes:

• Side mirror motor replacement: $255
• If whole mirror assembly jammed: $675
• Any other wear & tear parts found during servicing will be extra

I understand cars are expensive to maintain, but honestly I didn’t expect the cost to be this high. My colleague bought an older COE Toyota with only 3 years COE left, and he hasn’t encountered such issues and spends max $100+ on servicing each time.

To add on, I recently changed the capacitor at Mazda for $2199.69, as I kept getting dashboard error messages. Mazda diagnosed it as a faulty capacitor.

My questions to seniors here:

• Are these issues normal for a Mazda 3 at this mileage/age?
• Is the AD major service package reasonably priced, or am I better off going to a reputable workshop?
• In terms of safety / not breaking down. Should I proceed with the servicing? My friend urged me to just ignore them and as long as the car works, its all good.

Appreciate any advice or sharing of experience. Still learning, so please go easy on me
Thanks in advance!

You know you own a true mazda when the side mirror doesn't work. If it works, you got sold a lemon! Just kidding. Either leave it or get it fixed outside, it would be $250+ including labor. FL fixers can doit cheaper, or quick fix is WD40 spray inside.

Yours is power seat I presume? It is normal I guess, how does it feel clunky? I don't find my ex Maz3 power seats smooth, a bit of jerks.

Engine is always loud on cold start, it roars then after a while goes down and stops shuddering heavily also.

For temperature light, just drive normally, once the car starts, the old school me will wait until the RPM drops below 1K before engaging D, then in about 100m, the temp should reach the end of the blue bar, then I on my AC, but sometimes too hot, I just on the AC direct. The 1K RPM is a must for me.

Roads in SG typically, TYPICALLY is slanted fo rthe purpose of draining rain water. It's not obvious, but it is actually. I'm not sure how bad it is for you.

Check your AC coolant with a workshop and top up. My Maz3 AC is cooler than most toyota and my sister's honda.

Capacitor is not that ex... you can get it done at HALF the price outside, the issue here is you went back to TEK for servicing and checks.

You can try outside workshops like JDM, Monster Garage or my personal favourite - Autosaver for repairs and fixes. They get it done at a fraction of TEK's cost and wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy faster than TEK.

Toyotas are quite maintenance free, especially the older models as they don't have that many ECUs compared to the newer cars. Maz3 deluxe alone has quite a fair bit of electronics to worry about.

So if you want a gimicky car, but don't want the repair cost and issues, a bit hard... it's like buying a Conti and expecting it to be easy to maintain and fix like a bicycle.

 

[EJB]

For side mirror, look up at carousell. There are FL fixing it at less than half the price quoted by TEK. I engaged one at Punggol and he fixed for me but the issue recurred after few weeks. Went back and he replaced the motor with a so called more powerful version and it is working without any issues since then...

Provide the contact? My current one already 1st year both sides down liao.

 

[Cumzilla]

Provide the contact? My current one already 1st year both sides down liao.

PM you

 

[Cumzilla]

You know you own a true mazda when the side mirror doesn't work. If it works, you got sold a lemon! Just kidding. Either leave it or get it fixed outside, it would be $250+ including labor. FL fixers can doit cheaper, or quick fix is WD40 spray inside.

....

I used WD40 before I went to look for the FL fixer. When he opened it up, saw and probably smelled the WD40, he smiled at me and said, 'doesn't work right'.

 

[EJB]

I used WD40 before I went to look for the FL fixer. When he opened it up, saw and probably smelled the WD40, he smiled at me and said, 'doesn't work right'.

This one work for a while only. Permanent fix better. Mine was under warranty so send back to TEK fix FOC. 10th and 14th month, passenger and driver side respectively.

Sian is whole day need to leave car there, prev maz3 I send outside do 2 hours done.

 

[EJB]

PM you

Got it.

 

[Ensure4613]

Looks over priced? and stuff you don't need and I am not sure it actually deals with some of the problems mentioned??



I mean, your car has 3 years left, so I guess your plan is to drive till it dies.

Not sure you need decarbonising service and 21 point inspection, spark plugs when last change? No flushing? No water pump replacement (120k can consider)? Also need to check aircon compressor if got leaks or need to top up the gas.

Also check the mounts and struts. 120k / 7 years, should be about time liao if have change before.

I think just go JDM Autocare. It should be significantly lesser or get more work done for the price.

Mirror, when u press do you have sound or movement? If completely silent, then the motor maybe dead. Else can try wd-40.

For side mirror, look up at carousell. There are FL fixing it at less than half the price quoted by TEK. I engaged one at Punggol and he fixed for me but the issue recurred after few weeks. Went back and he replaced the motor with a so called more powerful version and it is working without any issues since then...

You know you own a true mazda when the side mirror doesn't work. If it works, you got sold a lemon! Just kidding. Either leave it or get it fixed outside, it would be $250+ including labor. FL fixers can doit cheaper, or quick fix is WD40 spray inside.

Yours is power seat I presume? It is normal I guess, how does it feel clunky? I don't find my ex Maz3 power seats smooth, a bit of jerks.

Engine is always loud on cold start, it roars then after a while goes down and stops shuddering heavily also.

For temperature light, just drive normally, once the car starts, the old school me will wait until the RPM drops below 1K before engaging D, then in about 100m, the temp should reach the end of the blue bar, then I on my AC, but sometimes too hot, I just on the AC direct. The 1K RPM is a must for me.

Roads in SG typically, TYPICALLY is slanted fo rthe purpose of draining rain water. It's not obvious, but it is actually. I'm not sure how bad it is for you.

Check your AC coolant with a workshop and top up. My Maz3 AC is cooler than most toyota and my sister's honda.

Capacitor is not that ex... you can get it done at HALF the price outside, the issue here is you went back to TEK for servicing and checks.

You can try outside workshops like JDM, Monster Garage or my personal favourite - Autosaver for repairs and fixes. They get it done at a fraction of TEK's cost and wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy faster than TEK.

Toyotas are quite maintenance free, especially the older models as they don't have that many ECUs compared to the newer cars. Maz3 deluxe alone has quite a fair bit of electronics to worry about.

So if you want a gimicky car, but don't want the repair cost and issues, a bit hard... it's like buying a Conti and expecting it to be easy to maintain and fix like a bicycle.

Thanks all for the advice! Including those who pm-ed me. Really really appreciate it. I've decided not to proceed with the servicing at TEK and look elsewhere to see how much they'll quote me. Thanks for sharing the other workshops as well! @EJB. Messaged JDM Autocare but no response so maybe I'll try the others and see what they say. Will probably ask them to check the mounts and struts as well. @koxinga Thanks for the tips!

With regards to the side mirror, currently I tried the WD-40 method and at least for now it works haha, was skeptical at first and didn't expect it to work but after a few assisted folds, it seem to be working for now. Will try the carousell way if it stops working. Do you mind sharing the contact with me as well? @Cumzilla

Also thanks @EJB for the tips! As a new driver, these tips are really useful. Can't believe that all these time I'll wait the full 4-5 mins for the temperature light to disappear before I move off .

Once I get a more detailed quote I'll share them for reference in case anyone experiences the same issue with their Mazda 3. For context, mine is a 2018 Mazda 3 1.5A Deluxe Sunroof.

 

[EJB]

Thanks all for the advice! Including those who pm-ed me. Really really appreciate it. I've decided not to proceed with the servicing at TEK and look elsewhere to see how much they'll quote me. Thanks for sharing the other workshops as well! @EJB. Messaged JDM Autocare but no response so maybe I'll try the others and see what they say. Will probably ask them to check the mounts and struts as well. @koxinga Thanks for the tips!

With regards to the side mirror, currently I tried the WD-40 method and at least for now it works haha, was skeptical at first and didn't expect it to work but after a few assisted folds, it seem to be working for now. Will try the carousell way if it stops working. Do you mind sharing the contact with me as well? @Cumzilla

Also thanks @EJB for the tips! As a new driver, these tips are really useful. Can't believe that all these time I'll wait the full 4-5 mins for the temperature light to disappear before I move off .

Once I get a more detailed quote I'll share them for reference in case anyone experiences the same issue with their Mazda 3. For context, mine is a 2018 Mazda 3 1.5A Deluxe Sunroof.

For JDM, ping CY direct via his mobile, it's faster, if he doesn't pick up, leave a WA, he will get back when he is free. Alternatively, drive in to the shops for a second opinion. They should be able to give a quick diagnosis and advise you.

For second hand cars, expect to spend about $5K on repairs and upkeep to bring it to optimal operating status. Tyres, fluids, checks, etc. Will be less stressful.

Go back to TEK only if you are rich, have the time. They are not the best at what they do despite they get the job done. It can be really hair pulling talking to the mech and SAs trying to get your repairs or fixes. They are most famed for their 'never fully service here' crap.

Outside workshops don't take 6 hours for a 20K job and costs only a fraction. Really is cannot make it... only go back if you have warranty still, which I doubt.

 

[koxinga]

Once I get a more detailed quote I'll share them for reference in case anyone experiences the same issue with their Mazda 3. For context, mine is a 2018 Mazda 3 1.5A Deluxe Sunroof.

One last thing though, have you checked the tires? Get the workshop to advice if you not sure about tire wear but minimally can check the year of manufacturer (YOM, 4 digit number on the side of the tire).

 

[EJB]

One last thing though, have you checked the tires? Get the workshop to advice if you not sure about tire wear but minimally can check the year of manufacturer (YOM, 4 digit number on the side of the tire).

Quick ref, 4 digits YYMM date of manufacture. 2204 means week 4 of 2022. 2526 means week 26 of 2025 etc.

However, date is only suggestive. You need to see the threads amount left and if it requires changing. Drivers with high mileage like 40k/year will change their tires yearly usually. Average also about 2 years (40K) will require changing.

So if 2526, but the tyres got like 30% left, you should consider changing already, it’s risky. If 2351, but tyres left 50%, you can safely use it until 30% left.

Importantly is to note that the correct profile of tyres are used for the car. Thinner, narrower tyres are cheaper usually and might not be the right profile.

For Maz3, assuming it’s BN, it should be 17“, so ideally, 215/225 in width and about 40-50 in thickness will be correct. If anything less, expect the car to have poorer handling when cornering and at high speeds. I think it should be 215/50/R17 IIRC.

BP comes with 18 and 19” options, which will be different. I think it’s 225/45/R18 I think.

The workshop will be able to advise.

 

[EJB]

Once I get a more detailed quote I'll share them for reference in case anyone experiences the same issue with their Mazda 3. For context, mine is a 2018 Mazda 3 1.5A Deluxe Sunroof.

Missed this.

This should be BN model. BP came out was 2020 IIRC (For SG market).

 

[swiftblade]

Anyone know if scrap value of Mazda 5 can get more than 200-300? Asked around and that was the range I got