[Monitor] Crossover IPS LCD 27 inches

[komade]

ok thanx for all the advice, can see frm pics the bezel n back is more chio'
than the older versions

Not newer model so to speak ... but rather it's another model with multiple input.

BUT from what I know .... you can only get the max resolution of 2560x1440 with Dual Link DVI input .... the rest can only at Full HD @ 1920x1080.

Do confirm with the seller.

 

[komade]

frm the pics i can see its dual link dvi port can anyone verify??

 

[ralfale]

Seller told me new model got internal speakers, old one no. That's all.

I'm talking about the blade 27QD vs 27Q.

 

[i1magic]

frm the pics i can see its dual link dvi port can anyone verify??

Yes ... it need Dual Link DVI-D. Since alot of gfx card comes with 1 x Dual Link DVI-I and 1 x Dual Link DVI-D ... so it'll work also.

 

[Darklord]

This is my GFX card
Sapphire Radeon HD 4770 Arctic Cooling Video Card - Video Card :: TweakTown USA Edition

Will this be compatible with the monitor ?

 

[ragnarok95]

Yes. Just use a dual link cable.

 

[LeoJDespair]

The monitor is selling at 378 USD is it a good deal?

★CROSSOVER★NEW 27QD LED BLADE​ 2560x1440 DVI-D Dual LG S-IPS 27" Speaker Monitor | eBay

 

[appleyboy]

Any specs for e power adapter ? Maybe can order two power adapter from sellers ? Just a thought

 

[i1magic]

Any specs for e power adapter ? Maybe can order two power adapter from sellers ? Just a thought

The rating should be 24V 5A based on what somebody posted earlier.

 

[megalord]

anyone can help out? My crossover also suddenly gone case. Not sure if monitor or power adapter. Before I ship this back to Korea, can anyone let me try on their system using their adapter?

The adapter can buy online but nearly $60USD and I don't want to buy and find out its monitor problem.

Suggest you go SLT walk walk, you may be able to find a laptop 24V power adapter for less than half that amount.

 

[Wisperknot]

Just to give everyone the heads up, finally realized it was the adapter.
I decided to open it up (quite easy just unscrew the 4 normal screws from under the rubber pads) and see see. One of the connections for the plug had come loose.

I have a soldering iron and some solder. After 2 min, its working fine. Also noticed the adapter ran hot because of poor connection between the metal frame (which acts as a heat sink) and the main transformer. Removed the cruddy thermal material, added a slop of arctic mx-4. Now the monitor works perfectly and adapter runs a lot cooler. Btw, whoever did the original solder work on this circuit board was really really heavy handed and a lot of the connections look terrible! Definitely a cheap adapter. If the adapter runs as hot as it originally does, the capacitors are certainly going to rupture early.

Now I got the monitor running again I really love it. Didn't want to return this unit especially given I got lucky with a set without yellowing, dead pixels or excessive backlight bleeding. Plus the shipping back would have been insane unless I wanted the item to be stuck in transit for 5-7 weeks!

Btw, if anyone needs a replacement adapter, from my communications with the original gmarket monitor seller, he offered to send me another adapter for US$30 (he said it costs him "$60" for the adapter and shipping fees, but he will cover 50% as goodwill...). Let me know if you want it and I'll help you get it. You just have to cover cost. People have been very kind in this thread after all. At US$30 its still a lot cheaper than the others I've seen on ebay.

By the way, went to SLS and SL tower and hunted for this adapter high and low. Noone had it. They had 24V 5A adapters for around $50-60 (One bloody fat uncle quoted 120) but all had the smaller round hollow end. I guess you could removed the top cable and resolder the appropriate plug to the + / - terminals. If you're willing to do that, you might as well buy a variable volt/current adapter which is much cheaper. Just make sure you get one able to push 5A cause that's relatively high.

By the way, if you have no technical skills and die die want to get an adapter locally, a store called "Unicell" offered to modify the 24V 5A adapter that they sell (not 4 pin head) by splicing the head on and quoted $59 (which was the pricing printed on the adapter). 2nd floor, one of the stores in the outer circle.

 

[Wisperknot]

The monitor is selling at 378 USD is it a good deal?

★CROSSOVER★NEW 27QD LED BLADE* 2560x1440 DVI-D Dual LG S-IPS 27" Speaker Monitor | eBay

Do you really need in built speakers?
They're going to be terrible and most people who are looking at $400+ monitors already have computer speakers or use headphones?

 

[Wisperknot]

By the way, here is a trouble shoot guide that I gleaned while researching why my monitor was not working.

Common Problems:

1) Defective Adapter brick. There's a green led on the brick. If it doesn't power on when the adapter is connected to the main, that means the brick is dead unless you have a blown led.

2) Problems with Radeon video cards. A lot of people don't realize that most of the 6xxx and 7xxx range video cards have a physical switch on the card which can enable dual-link or single link signal on the dvi output. Its located next to the cross-fire connector. If the switch is on the single-link position, it may result in the crossover turning on, flashing blue on the led and then after the monitor lighting up once, display will shut off and flashing red led will light up indicating no signal.

3) This doesn't apply to the crossover model, but some Achieva or Shimian models have very shallow VESA mount screw holes. If you screw too tightly to the stand, the screw will actually press against the PCB board and may short it.

4) If the adapter green led lights up but the monitor refuses to power on, the cable connector on the monitor pcb board may be loose. For the crossover, unscrew the stand and all the screws on the back and bottom edge of the monitor, remove the metal frame (you can't remove everything in the center because some of it is attached to the connectors on the panel. Make sure you don't pull any wires loose) and make sure all the connectors on the pcb are secure and have not come loose during shipping.

5) Hot power adapter. Make sure your power brick is not red hot during normal usage. It should get warm or even uncomfortably warm, but if its about to cause burns, then you should definitely check it out as your capacitors will roast if the temperature is too high. If it is, you might want to open it up and make sure the connection between the transformer and metal plate is secure. There is some cruddy Thermal compound which I suggest replacing with a decent after market thermal compound. Also just do a visual check to make sure none of the capacitors have ruptured. Do make sure you UNPLUG the adapter from the main, power up your monitor to discharge as much stored charge as possible. I'm paranoid and use a rubber handled screwdriver to discharge at the 4 pin socket even after doing this to make sure I'm not going to get shocked. There shouldn't be enough to kill a person from these capacitors but I'd rather not find out the hard way.

6) DVI cable. Some people have reported getting lousy DVI cables. If it doesn't work try replugging the cable and also changing which head connects to the monitor and the computer (reverse the current direction of the cable). It may sometimes help. Alternatively, buy or borrow a dual link DVI cable to check if the current one is defective.

If after all this, the monitor doesn't power on, then you may just want to ship it back to the seller and get a replacement. Sometimes **** happens.

 

[i1magic]

By the way, here is a trouble shoot guide that I gleaned while researching why my monitor was not working.

Common Problems:

1) Defective Adapter brick. There's a green led on the brick. If it doesn't power on when the adapter is connected to the main, that means the brick is dead unless you have a blown led.

2) Problems with Radeon video cards. A lot of people don't realize that most of the 6xxx and 7xxx range video cards have a physical switch on the card which can enable dual-link or single link signal on the dvi output. Its located next to the cross-fire connector. If the switch is on the single-link position, it may result in the crossover turning on, flashing blue on the led and then after the monitor lighting up once, display will shut off and flashing red led will light up indicating no signal.

3) This doesn't apply to the crossover model, but some Achieva or Shimian models have very shallow VESA mount screw holes. If you screw too tightly to the stand, the screw will actually press against the PCB board and may short it.

4) If the adapter green led lights up but the monitor refuses to power on, the cable connector on the monitor pcb board may be loose. For the crossover, unscrew the stand and all the screws on the back and bottom edge of the monitor, remove the metal frame (you can't remove everything in the center because some of it is attached to the connectors on the panel. Make sure you don't pull any wires loose) and make sure all the connectors on the pcb are secure and have not come loose during shipping.

5) Hot power adapter. Make sure your power brick is not red hot during normal usage. It should get warm or even uncomfortably warm, but if its about to cause burns, then you should definitely check it out as your capacitors will roast if the temperature is too high. If it is, you might want to open it up and make sure the connection between the transformer and metal plate is secure. There is some cruddy Thermal compound which I suggest replacing with a decent after market thermal compound. Also just do a visual check to make sure none of the capacitors have ruptured. Do make sure you UNPLUG the adapter from the main, power up your monitor to discharge as much stored charge as possible. I'm paranoid and use a rubber handled screwdriver to discharge at the 4 pin socket even after doing this to make sure I'm not going to get shocked. There shouldn't be enough to kill a person from these capacitors but I'd rather not find out the hard way.

6) DVI cable. Some people have reported getting lousy DVI cables. If it doesn't work try replugging the cable and also changing which head connects to the monitor and the computer (reverse the current direction of the cable). It may sometimes help. Alternatively, buy or borrow a dual link DVI cable to check if the current one is defective.

If after all this, the monitor doesn't power on, then you may just want to ship it back to the seller and get a replacement. Sometimes **** happens.

Fantastic sharing. If got picture ... then it would be even better.

Yes .. currently ... the adapter runs quite hot.

 

[appleyboy]

Just to give everyone the heads up, finally realized it was the adapter.
I decided to open it up (quite easy just unscrew the 4 normal screws from under the rubber pads) and see see. One of the connections for the plug had come loose.

I have a soldering iron and some solder. After 2 min, its working fine. Also noticed the adapter ran hot because of poor connection between the metal frame (which acts as a heat sink) and the main transformer. Removed the cruddy thermal material, added a slop of arctic mx-4. Now the monitor works perfectly and adapter runs a lot cooler. Btw, whoever did the original solder work on this circuit board was really really heavy handed and a lot of the connections look terrible! Definitely a cheap adapter. If the adapter runs as hot as it originally does, the capacitors are certainly going to rupture early.

Now I got the monitor running again I really love it. Didn't want to return this unit especially given I got lucky with a set without yellowing, dead pixels or excessive backlight bleeding. Plus the shipping back would have been insane unless I wanted the item to be stuck in transit for 5-7 weeks!

Btw, if anyone needs a replacement adapter, from my communications with the original gmarket monitor seller, he offered to send me another adapter for US$30 (he said it costs him "$60" for the adapter and shipping fees, but he will cover 50% as goodwill...). Let me know if you want it and I'll help you get it. You just have to cover cost. People have been very kind in this thread after all. At US$30 its still a lot cheaper than the others I've seen on ebay.

By the way, went to SLS and SL tower and hunted for this adapter high and low. Noone had it. They had 24V 5A adapters for around $50-60 (One bloody fat uncle quoted 120) but all had the smaller round hollow end. I guess you could removed the top cable and resolder the appropriate plug to the + / - terminals. If you're willing to do that, you might as well buy a variable volt/current adapter which is much cheaper. Just make sure you get one able to push 5A cause that's relatively high.

By the way, if you have no technical skills and die die want to get an adapter locally, a store called "Unicell" offered to modify the 24V 5A adapter that they sell (not 4 pin head) by splicing the head on and quoted $59 (which was the pricing printed on the adapter). 2nd floor, one of the stores in the outer circle.

Got pic of adapter pin ? So far I know 24v 5a

 

[Wisperknot]

Picture in link below. Notice the polarity (where the +/- contacts are on the 4pin). They must be the same. Some have the same 4 pin set up but different polarity and will not work with your Crossover.

AC Adapter 24V 5A For EFL-2202W LCD Monitor(4 pin Tip) | eBay

 

[i1magic]

Picture in link below. Notice the polarity (where the +/- contacts are on the 4pin). They must be the same. Some have the same 4 pin set up but different polarity and will not work with your Crossover.

AC Adapter 24V 5A For EFL-2202W LCD Monitor(4 pin Tip) | eBay

So can this work for this Korean 27" S-IPS monitor?

This adapter looks smaller than the one we are using now.

 

[Wisperknot]

So can this work for this Korean 27" S-IPS monitor?

This adapter looks smaller than the one we are using now.

Yes. See the 167 sold? That's mainly Korean 27" IPS Panel owners in the US. The adapter that came with the Shimian, Crossover, CatLeaps etc sent had a lot of overheating and bad connections at 110V (voltage in the states) for the first few batches, so people were buying the adapters even before their monitors were shipped.

By the way, I found that my crossover was getting quite hot at the top of the screen, especially at the black bezel part. Shouldn't be an issue as my U2711 is just as hot, but I rigged up a silent 120mm fan just to be double safe. Fan has a blue LED so now my monitor has a cool blue glow from the back in the evenings.

 

[i1magic]

Yes. See the 167 sold? That's mainly Korean 27" IPS Panel owners in the US. The adapter that came with the Shimian, Crossover, CatLeaps etc sent had a lot of overheating and bad connections at 110V (voltage in the states) for the first few batches, so people were buying the adapters even before their monitors were shipped.

By the way, I found that my crossover was getting quite hot at the top of the screen, especially at the black bezel part. Shouldn't be an issue as my U2711 is just as hot, but I rigged up a silent 120mm fan just to be double safe. Fan has a blue LED so now my monitor has a cool blue glow from the back in the evenings.

Oic .. so can this adapter be use for us in S'pore?

Should be "warm" instead of "hot" right?

NPNT leh ... LOL!!

 

[Wisperknot]

Oic .. so can this adapter be use for us in S'pore?

Should be "warm" instead of "hot" right?

NPNT leh ... LOL!!

black bezel area was a bit hot. But I consider anything uncomfortable to leave my hand on hot. But it is slightly cooler than the U2711. That is one hot monitor... I don't care about the U2711 as the Dell warranty is like a rock, but have to baby this one a bit more. Don't plan on shipping back to Korea hopefully.

Its a simple mod. Two zip ties, attach blue led 120mm fan to the two convenient holes on the top of the stand. Have it blowing on the monitor rather than away. The fan doesn't vibrate cause the voltage is quite low and so its completely silent. I didn't realize the led was so bright. Its quite the glower at night but completely unnoticeable during the day.

Had to turn off the monitor because the light meter on the phone camera would over compensate for the bright screen