New i7 8700K build

RuLeZ123

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Hi guys, need your advice on the following build:

I already have the following:
Acer Predator XB271HU
512GB M.2 SSD
GTX 1070 (Will upgrade in future)
Keyboard/Mouse
Windows 10 OS

Budget: $1900

Target: Play AAA titles on ultra setting at 2560×1440

Intel i7 8700k + GIGABYTE Z370XP-SLI $721
G.SKILL SNIPER X 3200MHZ CL16 ( 8GBx2pcs) $269
TOSHIBA 4TB $149
EVGA G3 SERIES 850W GOLD $199
FRACTAL DESIGN R6 T-GLASS $215
NZXT X62 LIQUID COOLING $269
Total: $1822

Thanks in advance. :)
 

singupingu

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1. Do you want any aesthetic features like RGB? A certain build theme?

2. Why FD R6? You have a lot of hard drive? If you don't, perhaps can consider the Meshify C for better airflow.

3. Will you be overclocking? Expensive doesn't mean good if you don't overclock with the K chip and Z series mobo you're getting.

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RuLeZ123

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1. Do you want any aesthetic features like RGB? A certain build theme?

2. Why FD R6? You have a lot of hard drive? If you don't, perhaps can consider the Meshify C for better airflow.

3. Will you be overclocking? Expensive doesn't mean good if you don't overclock with the K chip and Z series mobo you're getting.

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Hi, thanks for reply.

1. Just clean and simple will do. Do not require RGB.

2. Noted. Will take a look a Meshify C.

3. Yup. Will be overclocking.
 

Ark Law

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If don't care about looks, wouldn't a Noctua D15 be a better buy than an AIO?
 

Encrypted11

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U should say budget too singu can help more.. Anyway in SGD rate, all the $2xx z370 boards are lousy in VRMs/overclocking terms. Best in the pack is MSI Z370 A-Pro.

If you can turn your budget to ~$300 Gigabyte Gaming 5 and MSI Pro Carbon are decent. Rest of the tiering, but you're looking for a board that can safely support 2X TDP through VRMs than being the board's max capacity.

attachment.php

https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-intel-motherboards/1638955-z370-z390-vrm-discussion-thread.html
 

RuLeZ123

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U should say budget too singu can help more.. Anyway in SGD rate, all the $2xx z370 boards are lousy in VRMs/overclocking terms. Best in the pack is MSI Z370 A-Pro.

If you can turn your budget to ~$300 Gigabyte Gaming 5 and MSI Pro Carbon are decent. Rest of the tiering, but you're looking for a board that can safely support 2X TDP through VRMs than being the board's max capacity.

attachment.php

https://www.overclock.net/forum/6-intel-motherboards/1638955-z370-z390-vrm-discussion-thread.html

Hi, Thanks for sharing.

My budget is around $1900.

Will consider getting Gigabyte Gaming 5.
 

singupingu

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Would suggest you delid the 8700K. The heat is notorious when overclocking really. Some bros here offer the service. Can search at Carousell too.

May I ask, why aiming 850W PSU? Will you be doing SLI in future or considering it? I don't wanna recommend an overkill PSU for a gtx 1070 (even if you're getting gtx 1080 ti tier card with 250W TDP, 850W PSU is still overkill even if you overclock both cpu and gpu and loading them simultaneously)

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RuLeZ123

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Would suggest you delid the 8700K. The heat is notorious when overclocking really. Some bros here offer the service. Can search at Carousell too.

May I ask, why aiming 850W PSU? Will you be doing SLI in future or considering it? I don't wanna recommend an overkill PSU for a gtx 1070 (even if you're getting gtx 1080 ti tier card with 250W TDP, 850W PSU is still overkill even if you overclock both cpu and gpu and loading them simultaneously)

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Hihi, may be doing SLI in future but not confirm yet. :D

May I know what is the PSU W that you will suggest if not doing SLI? Thanks
 

singupingu

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Hihi, may be doing SLI in future but not confirm yet. :D

May I know what is the PSU W that you will suggest if not doing SLI? Thanks
650W is more than enough. General rule of thumb. Motherboard draw 350W max power output (for consumer cpu, with overclock), GPU at 250-300W max (with overclock). To generate those power draw is almost unrealistic. Gaming load is way lower than that, as GPU will draw its power from both the power connectors from PSU as well as from the motherboard PCIE slot. Hence I said 650W power draw for single card system with overclocking, is more than enough.

If you wanna SLI, even for gtx 1080 ti, then yes, 850W just nice. Coz you won't be able to draw both card to the max with just gaming. Only unrealistic load, perhaps you can. 350W (mobo max) + 250W (gtx 1080 ti) + 250W (gtx 1080 ti) = 850W PSU. I won't count until 300W unlike the first paragraph, because SLI is not 100% scalable. You get less than 200% performance with 2 cards. Typically around 160% compared to 1 card.

You can use Outervision Power Supply Calculator to calculate how much power you will need. Can even put in your targeted overclock numbers to find out the output and how much psu wattage is recommended.

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RuLeZ123

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650W is more than enough. General rule of thumb. Motherboard draw 350W max power output (for consumer cpu, with overclock), GPU at 250-300W max (with overclock). To generate those power draw is almost unrealistic. Gaming load is way lower than that, as GPU will draw its power from both the power connectors from PSU as well as from the motherboard PCIE slot. Hence I said 650W power draw for single card system with overclocking, is more than enough.

If you wanna SLI, even for gtx 1080 ti, then yes, 850W just nice. Coz you won't be able to draw both card to the max with just gaming. Only unrealistic load, perhaps you can. 350W (mobo max) + 250W (gtx 1080 ti) + 250W (gtx 1080 ti) = 850W PSU. I won't count until 300W unlike the first paragraph, because SLI is not 100% scalable. You get less than 200% performance with 2 cards. Typically around 160% compared to 1 card.

You can use Outervision Power Supply Calculator to calculate how much power you will need. Can even put in your targeted overclock numbers to find out the output and how much psu wattage is recommended.

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Hihi, thanks for sharing. Will take note of this. :)
 

NMSS_2

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it is better to get higher quality PSU ratings. Power ratings do go down with age. Dont just get the bare minimum, go for something twice the power that you might actually need.
 

RuLeZ123

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it is better to get higher quality PSU ratings. Power ratings do go down with age. Dont just get the bare minimum, go for something twice the power that you might actually need.

Hihi, noted with thanks :)
 

-Synchronicity-

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it is better to get higher quality PSU ratings. Power ratings do go down with age. Dont just get the bare minimum, go for something twice the power that you might actually need.

Emmmm no. At most get an extra 10-20% more then what you need. Too big of a PSU which you do not use actually affects the longevity of it. Also, why pay more electricity when you don't even need it? 10-20% is more then enough.
 

elmariachi

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Emmmm no. At most get an extra 10-20% more then what you need. Too big of a PSU which you do not use actually affects the longevity of it. Also, why pay more electricity when you don't even need it? 10-20% is more then enough.

Totally agreed.

First an explanation of what exactly the efficiency of a PSU means.

The efficiency rating on a PSU is simply a rating for how well the PSU converts the AC power it recieves from the outlet to DC power the components of the PC can use.

So, for simplicy sake, lets say your PC components are drawing 100w of power. If you have a PSU that is 80% efficient, it will really draw 125w from the AC outlet.

I've seen people say that you take the Wattage rating of the PSU, and the efficiency is how much power the PSU can really output for your component. That means that a 500w PSU, rated for 80% efficiency will only be able to supply 400w. This is wrong. A 500w PSU should be able to output 500w to your PC components in one form or another. Efficiency has nothing to do with this.

Well if I have a PSU that is rated for 80% efficiency, where does the other 20% go?

Simple answer: Heat. Any electricity not converted from AC to DC is given off as heat.

Will there ever be 100% efficient Power Supplies?

I'm one that lives by the moto "nothing is impossible", so I'm not going to say flat out no. However, I will say that it is highly highly unlikely, and none of use will probably see it in our lifetimes or our childrens lifetimes.

If I have a 500w PSU, does that mean it will always draw 500w of power?

No. The amount of power drawn is determined by the components of the computer and how much they require. The amount of power drawn will only be equal to what is needed, and no more. If all the components of a computer require 300w to run, then the "load" on the PSU will be 300w and hence the power draw of the PC will always be 300w+Inefficiency no matter if it is a 500w PSU or a 1000w.

So what do the different 80 Plus ratings mean?

The basic 80 Plus rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 80% efficiency at 20% load, 50% load, and 100% load.

The 80 Plus Bronze rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 82% efficiency at 20% load, 85% at 50% load, and 82% at 100% load.

The 80 Plus Silver rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 85% efficiency at 20% load, 88% at 50% load, and 85% at 100% load.

The 80 Plus Gold rating meas that the PSU is rated for at least 87% efficiency at 20% load, 90% at 50% load, and 87% at 100% load.

The 80 Plus Platinum(bet you didn't know there was a Platinum) rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 90% efficiency at 20% load, 92% at 50% load, and 89% at 100% load.

Now, that doesn't mean that the PSUs perform exactly at those numbers, but they are close enough, and of course you probably aren't going to use exactly 50% load or whatever, but it is close enough to give a good idea of what a PSU is capable of.

A good article from Techpowerup.
 
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Ark Law

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it is better to get higher quality PSU ratings. Power ratings do go down with age. Dont just get the bare minimum, go for something twice the power that you might actually need.

Wot. So I should be getting be getting a 1000W PSU instead of my current 550W SFX?

Then those who currently run SLI with 750-850W PSU need to actually get a 1.6kW PSU? :s22:
 

Ferolare

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Wot. So I should be getting be getting a 1000W PSU instead of my current 550W SFX?

Then those who currently run SLI with 750-850W PSU need to actually get a 1.6kW PSU? :s22:
heng im running a fake 1700x and stock rx480 on a 520w psu :s34:
 

singupingu

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Anyway TS, here is what I would recommend you:

CHASSIS: Fractal Design Meshify C ($145)
CPU+MOBO: Intel i7-8700K + MSI Z370 Gaming Pro Carbon ($773)
CPU COOLER: Cryorig R1 Universal ($139)
RAM: G.Skill Sniper X 3200MHz C16 16GB kit ($269)
HDD: Toshiba 4TB ($149)
PSU: Seasonic Focus Plus 650W ($159)/850W ($188)
Addon: Noctua NF-A14, 2 pcs for front intake fans ($70 from Cybermind)

Total: $1704 / $1733

Prices referred from PC Themes Price List unless otherwise stated

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RuLeZ123

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Anyway TS, here is what I would recommend you:

CHASSIS: Fractal Design Meshify C ($145)
CPU+MOBO: Intel i7-8700K + MSI Z370 Gaming Pro Carbon ($773)
CPU COOLER: Cryorig R1 Universal ($139)
RAM: G.Skill Sniper X 3200MHz C16 16GB kit ($269)
HDD: Toshiba 4TB ($149)
PSU: Seasonic Focus Plus 650W ($159)/850W ($188)
Addon: Noctua NF-A14, 2 pcs for front intake fans ($70 from Cybermind)

Total: $1704 / $1733

Prices referred from PC Themes Price List unless otherwise stated

Sent from OnePlus ONEPLUS A3003 using GAGT

Gamxia all for your advice. :)
 

NMSS_2

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Emmmm no. At most get an extra 10-20% more then what you need. Too big of a PSU which you do not use actually affects the longevity of it. Also, why pay more electricity when you don't even need it? 10-20% is more then enough.

The higher psu ratings is headroom. You dont pay more if you are using a higher PSU. Depends on how long you want to use PSU. PSU ratings do decrease with age and it will affect the operation of the computer. My 10+ years old sensonic 650w was not able to run a slightly higher end GFX card without it going bonkers once in a while when it should technically support it.

Too big of a PSU which you do not use actually affects the longevity of it.

where did you get that info from? :s22:
 
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