Nikko - my overnight stay

vofzxy

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First post reservation

Nikko town

quite a quiet place overall outside the shrines area, pity this place is not promoted much
given that this is the final resting place for Tokugawa Ieyasu 徳川 家康, THE Tokugawa Ieyasu and
also his grandson, Tokugawa Iemitsu

the place however is runned over by all the primary school kids, like in the hundreds and by the bus loads
but you know, these kids on a day trip don't spend money there nor buy anything from the shops
so commerce activity in the shops in nikko town and chuzenji itself are pretty tepid which is sad IMO =/

although the hotels in chuzenji onsen areas was all occupied, it didn't have much foreign tourist there at all even at the lake area, which makes it peaceful and nice but also not exciting, all the boat rental onjisans just sitting around all day


according to this - http://nikko-travel.jp/english/access/
you can take a shinkansen from Tokyo station --> utsunomiya --> local train to JR Nikko, sit all the way
- OR -
Take the tobu rail from Asakusa / shinjuku / Ikebukuro

I DID NOT purchase the Tobu Nikko area pass, as they can only be bought in Tokyo but not at the Nikko train stations, so all we did was to get the bus passes.

EYa4WE7.jpg

There are 3 types of bus passes, as marked out by the kind information auntie on the picture above
1. Nikko city itself + Chuzenji onsen area
2. Nikko + Chuzenji onsen area + Senjogahara plains
3. Nikko + Chuzenji onsen area + Senjogahara plains + yumoto onsen area = JPY 3000, which i bought

Senjogahara plains -- is a hiking place, infact the whole place is kinda fenced up to prevent the increasing deer population from running out on to the roads amongst other animals, very much like jurassic park IMO

you can use your suica/passmo/Icoca card to PAY but NOT put the bus pass inside your IC card

**note on JR passes**
the TOKYO WIDE JR PASS does actually cover Nikko, given its probably the nearest onsen town to Tokyo
plus the JR pass gives you almost all access rides within tokyo metro area i.e. the all efficient yamanote and chuo line

JR Ticket Office (Midori-no-madoguchi) - do remember this @#$%@$%^@#$ office is a 9am--7pm office (i think @ shinjuku)

infact when we wanted to get our passes, it was already past 7 pm so we have to buy individual rides
i went to Nikko via Tobu rail and back to Tokyo via shinkansen
****

okay less talking and more pics please

The shrines

so on to the crowning glory of Nikko [figure 1]
bJkB1WO.jpg


you will have to pay to visit every single attraction in that picture
all tickets can be bought at the train station, the TOBU station is where the main tourist activity is
cause thats where the tourisim counter is, not the JR station
you can either buy tickets to enter the buildings at the Tobu Nikko station or at the attraction itself

The point of this post is to inform you of the following, base on my experience

figure 2
B9E5pZY.png


1. If you are coming down from the onsens area, bus stop 9 is the place you want to alight at and take
a short walk into the shrines area

2. or you can alight at Shinkyo, bus stop 7, cross the road and take the world heritage bus into the
shrines area.

3. the bus map above, figure 2, is HIGHLY misleading IMO in terms of distance to each other , they are all
adjacent to each other. however, i did not enter Futarasan Shrine

4. bus stop 85 is actually right at the door step of Taiyūin Temple, like right at the path to the entrance of it
bus stop 83 is actually right at the door step of Rinnōji Temple,
bus stop 82 is more at the start of omotesando, which is the gravel path leading up to the masoluem

5. A lot of people actually alight at #82 and not knowing where to go next cause the bus stop is infront of the
museum building which hides the traditional building attractions behind it

6. No fear, this post is here.
#82 actually puts you infront of a dragon fountain + some buddhist monk statue
Look at it, take the left road, walk down like 10 steps, the gravel path on your right is what you on the maps
K0AYIshm.jpg


7. As you can see , figure 1 and 2 are quite different
...Figure 2 is a bus map, hence it only shows the attractions the bus can bring you to
...The places above the toshogu shrine in figure, i do not know how to get there, it didnt seem like i could exit the area from the north part of the toshogu shrine

8. the small grey stone structure above the toshogu shrine in figure 2, i believe is depicting the tomb of tokugawa Ieysau itself; taiyuin shrine holds the tomb of Iemitsu

9. the main attraction of Rinnoji is the Sanbutsudo hall, which atm is under restoration, so the Japs have actually built a warehouse covering the WHOLE 4/5 story building, instead of like just scaffolding

qTvWb21.jpg

GINNA PI EVERYWHERE ~~~~~~

10. out of the 4 main attraction buildings in the shrines area, the entrance tickets to Rinnoji and Taiyuyin can actually be bought together in a single ticket, which is white colour ticket, like your boarding pass.
So i went Rinnoji first, they took the white ticket and gave me the Taiyuin ticket in exchange,
i suppose the same thing should happen if you happen to visit Taiyuin first, you will receive a Rinnoji entrance ticket in exchange
sorry, no pics of the original white ticket, i forgot to take a pic

Futarasan and Toshogu shrine each have their own individual entrance tickets

XixwMbK.jpg

if you purchase the 2 in 1 ticket, they will pass you this white slip when you enter your first building
which for me is the Rinnoji side
this IMO is the most accurate depiction of how close the buildings are to each other, instead of what you see on other tourist maps.

11. BTW from the toshogu shrine hall itself to tokugawa's tomb is 207 steps (STAIRCASE) one way, so if thats a concern for you and your knees or someone else and their knees then at least now you know
Being a fervent traveller to Japan, like you are, you also know that is the only way up and down =)
plus you can join the many school children counting their steps to count your steps too, up or downwards =)


12. The entrance tickets are actually NOT DATED, so you can buy today and visit the shrines tomorrow, the day after... etc which i suppose is the aim of the entry system, to allow you to go enjoy the onsen, the scenery, the hikes + visiting the shrines

13. As you can see below,
1. bus stop #85
2. the "Amitabha riding a peacock" temple
3. Taiyuin gate
4. Futarasan shrine toji gate entrance
5. path to Toshogu shrine
hence my point about how close the buildings are to each other, actually you can also alight at bus stop #85 and walk anti-clockwise if it is easier for you. however the world heritage bus is a loop service which only goes clockwise direction

uil2yGU.jpg


13. https://jw-webmagazine.com/one-day-trip-to-nikko-ce880fb49a10
this website is probably one of the better ones IMO
the colours you see now are all restored and covered with lacquer, which makes the whole place very vivid and bright, however the colouring is quite reflective thanks to the lacquer and might seem overdone when you are there
so the monkey you see in the website is no longer of that faded form, but restored like the rest of the other building pics

SIDE NOTE
There is an un-shown shrine right outside Taifuyin, where bus stop #85 is, which is apparently not shown on any maps i have seen....

if you're into Buddhism.

Being Japan, they built a warehouse over the Sanbutsudo to restore it. In it lies a peculiar "3 sages of the West" aka 四方三圣. The Amitabha Buddha is flanked by both a thousand hand Kannon (观音) and a horse head Kannon (which also has 4 faces) instead of 大势至 Bodhisattva as commonly depicted in Chinese temples.

this temple has also a numerous collection of statues of the 八大菩萨/ 十二生肖守护佛, which is the 8 great Bodhisattva/Buddhas, which are also the 8 Buddha protectors of the 12 zodiac creatures.
In my minute collection of travels in japan, this is the only temple i know that sells talisman according to the zodiac, which is of course talisman of one of the respective 8 Bodhisattva/Buddhas, instead of the normal cloth bag talisman you see in other more popular touristy attraction temples, like asakusa, todaiji, toji.... etc

The 2nd temple, which doesn't exactly have a name, houses the one and only, in all of Japan, Amitabha riding a peacock, 五智宝冠阿弥佗如来. Also it's the only temple, that i know of in Japan, to purchase a peacock talisman as in the cloth bag has a picture of a peacock on it, comes in 2 colours, red or white

So other then Toji of Kyoto and The Great Buddha in Kamakura, you might wanna give these temples your respects.

so as you can see, the national treasures held in this area are also the one and only of national cultural heritage treasures
 
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vofzxy

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2nd post reservation

Chuzenji onsen

1. the lake is nice

2. commerce activity in the shops in nikko town and chuzenji itself are pretty tepid which is sad IMO =/
rental boat uncles sittin around waiting for walk ins

3. you can actually get a paddle boat ride in the lake at this time of the year, but you can't row it yourself, someone will row for you
if you really wanna DIY, you can rent a swan and cycle-paddle the swan around the lake, which i did not see any one doing lol

4. there is this apparently famous tonkatsu place "Tonkatsu Asai" which is beside a butcher shop,
however it closed at 2 pm when i was there instead of 7 pm on google maps, they werent even open at night
URGH !
so i didnt get to try it

5. Chuzenji is this small town area build on one side of the lake, high above nikko town itself

6. Some scans to help you out
1e2eUHw.jpg

gvqwOyz.jpg

Dy6ohyt.jpg


7. how nice of them to indicate hike duration timings for the entire route for all the available routes =)

8. you must see the "other notes" section in the 3rd post

Yumoto onsen

1. THIS IS WHERE THE BUS RIDE ENDS

2. if you really wanna hike, the Nikko Yumoto visitor centre is a must go,
there are no trash bins in the area, typical of hiking grounds.
There is ANOTHER visitor centre, but it is catered to the onsens in the area

3. the visitor centre has a plethora of maps, all of which you cannot take a copy of
BUT, damn i wished i had known about this prior to my trip, so i asked the lady where she got all the maps from and she pointed me to......
http://www.nikkoyumoto-vc.com/english/hiking/

the only reason i asked was because, all the maps were label "XXX PDF"
where XXX is some strong of Japanese characters

4. IMO theres really nothing her, even the bus stop, which is a car park/bus holding area is an open space

5. the attraction here would be the source of their hot springs, which is a marsh land
like sungai buloh nature reserve, just all mud and a lot less water and a stench of sulphur in the air

6. the signage here is terrible imo, as there are no signs LOL

7. none the less as you walk around towards the marshlands, you will come across this junction,
and please turn left cause it is on your left when you are looking at the sign
3jkkY3A.jpg


8. Follow the path down, you will reach the marshland, FYI its wet and muddy, so if you step in it with normal shoes, its gonna be soaked.
some ginna on a science field trip actually did that or maybe fell in it, poor kid had to sit out the trip, take out his shoes and socks to air

of course the children there are on a science trip, taking their litmus paper and dipping it in every puddle they see....

emgLtcw.jpg


9. this place turns into a ski resort in winter =)

10. so i stayed at bus stop #28 and according to the map by the hotel,
the hike from yumoto down to chuzenji is 3 hours long
from yumoto to yudaki waterfalls, is about 30 mins, but the walk is kinda sad
its like macritchie, where you are walking beside the lake but also the road on the other side =/

cdTo2x1.jpg


11. the nearest bus stop to yudaki falls is bus stop #40 , if you decided to stop walking
theres another bus stop at the senjogahara plains as well, cant recall the number

12. i went to yudaki and ryuzu falls but not kegon falls, which is the main waterfall attraction

Sent from Sony G8142 using GAGT
 
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vofzxy

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Other notes

1. RE- left side of the map - IROHA SLOPE
so the bus up to chuzenji from nikko station is goes up a long winding slope along the mountain side
which is inbetween bus stop #21 and #22 ( i believe) so please dont miss the stop, its a freaking long way

2. from point #1, that means the journey from nikko station to chuzenji itself is about 50 mins
chuzenji to yumoto is about 20 mins

3. THEREFORE, if you plan to go straight to your hotel at chuzenji or yumoto, ie.e to put your luggage at the hotel then changes to a small carry bag to take while you sight see, you need to realised that its an hour uphill and another hour downhill between chuzenji and nikko
re -- your check in time + train arrival times... etc

you can see the current bus intervals here -- http://www.tobu-bus.com/en/nikko/pdf/nikko_en_2.pdf?201711
this PDF is printed and available for you at the nikko visitor centres (tobu nikko station), probably at the JR station itself also, but not all bus stops timings are printed

i.e. if you noticed the LHS of the PDF, world heritage bus timings, despite the loops service, Shinkyo, bus stop #7 appears once and on the "return" half of the journey
that means , for example, if you come down from chuzenji and alight at shinkyo, cross the road to wait for the world heritage bus to go inside the shrines area, the timing is not provided on the handout
but no fear, the bus timings are very frequent, about 10 mins interval

4. both uphill and downhill roads are different, but each have about 19+ bends to get through consecutively,
if you get car sick on buses, you probably should note this

5. FYI, thats an elevation climb of about 400m at 40 km/h thats the speed limit on those roads

6. again -
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3806.html
hiking maps between chuzenji and yumoto -- http://www.nikkoyumoto-vc.com/english/hiking/

LTmPBtd.jpg


7. tobu bus timings -- this is available at the tourist centre
http://www.tobu-bus.com/en/nikko/pdf/nikko_routemap.pdf?201711
in the blue and green tables, FYI the time interval between bus stop #1 and bus stop #26
busses do come late more often then not, which is good, so the 50 - 60 min estimation i have provided is not
an extreme case

8. now that you roughly know which bus stop , you can actually google map the areas
the bus stop signs can be seen along the road,
hence when you street-view them , you can find out the bus stop number and search for the respective bus timings on the tobu website -- http://www.tobu-bus.com/en/nikko/

the SITE itself thats provides the timings are in japanese though, for example -
http://www.tobu-bus.com/pc/search/bs_tt.php?key=43038_01

9. there is a tobu bus app for bus timings which look like --
http://www.tobu-bus.com/cmn/search_section.php?scd=43008&s=43008&e=43019&k=&k2=&k3=&lang=en

im afraid i do not know how to use the app

10. fi you look in general at the maps of nikko, i did not go to the RHS of nikko station
which is kirifuri falls area and the kinugawa onsen area, in another nikko thread, i believe another user has been there, you might wanna read that thread too

11. i hope my posts have not been filled with spoilers, but i feel that my nikko trip is half bad planning and half my unexpected reality of how wide spread the areas are

12. there is a nippon rent-a-car at the train stations, if i knew this much info, i would have taken at rain to nikko and rented a car to drive around, especially up and downhill instead of spending hours on the bus
BTW i spent 4 hours on the bus going up and down, as i have taken the ride up and down the Iroha slopes 4x
=/

13. IMO, it seems much nicer to visit in winter and walk around the shrines in the snow based on google images that is

14. on the nikko buses, you will need to show your bus ticker when you board as well as when you alight
if for example you buy a 2 days bus pass, it comes only in 1 ticket and it starts with your first ride when the driver tears off the tab at the side
23zzCaD.jpg

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