PC: Good to go?

robolee

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1) More inputs doesn't hurt. Im fixated but nt stubborn. Quite afew people say Tecware F3 is bad, then I dont buy. It was my initial choice.

2) Initially I did think about getting Asrock. But Asrock mobo got no C-State that's why I took Asus in the end. Certainly not for the brand.

@robolee Yup, getting a Gold+ PSU.

I will tell you the con for Asus Ryzen Motherboard - You can't manually set voltage. It's only offset, other than that i have no complain for it :D
 

pr0dygi

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I will tell you the con for Asus Ryzen Motherboard - You can't manually set voltage. It's only offset, other than that i have no complain for it :D

Offset is better as it gives the voltage a range rather than 1.35v constantly to the chip be it idle or under load.
 
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robolee

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Calikura

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Quite afew people say Tecware F3 is bad, then I dont buy.

I'm a cheapo and I use a Tecware F3, it's not that bad.

But I had to rip out the drive mounting cage (since I only use a single 2.5" SSD, I mount it right at the bottom of the chassis), and replace the included case fans with a pair of better ones. It is also crucial to use a CPU cooler that can be mounted for horizontal airflow as opposed to vertical. Don't even bother trying to do top exhaust in the F3.

Even after buying new fans, I still saved around $30-40 over a better branded, well-reviewed mATX case. Airflow isn't too bad, temps are actually pretty decent, giving me good OC headroom on both my CPU and open air cooler style GPU. If you use a blower style GPU, it becomes even less of an issue.
 
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pr0dygi

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Just a little update. Finish building and OC-ing my computer yesterday.

Went to Simlim, almost every shop ran out of 1600. Heard stocks only will be in nxt mth. So for all u guys looking for 1600, good luck!

Long story short... went to Simlim and wanted to buy the PC listed in the first post but some parts were OOS so had change some parts. Ended up with:

Mobo+CPU: R5 1600 + Asus B350 Prime Plus
GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1080 Windforce OC 8gb
Case: CM Masterbox Lite 5 RGB (Singupingu rec)
PSU: Seasonic 620w ("so I can sleep better at night")
SSD: Samsung evo850 500gb
Ram: 1x8gb 3000mhz Corsair Vengeance LPX ddr4

Changed from Frontliner to Masterbox Lite 5 RGB because my brother(tech idiot) who was with me saw some shop display some RGB casing and was like "WHOA! WHY SO COLOR. Sibeh power". I wanted to disturb him so I said RGB increase computer performance by 50% leh.... He believe and he say he die die want RGB.

Anyway, for people who might be interested in Masterbox Lite 5 RGB, please remember to select your fan color. We forgot to select ended up both got same color.

Did some OC-ing and here are the results for both computer.

R5 1600:
Me - 3.8mhz on stock voltage. Running at 38degree on light usage and 65degree on Aida64 stress test.

Bro - 3.9mhz on stock voltage. Same temp as me.

Ram:
Me - Unable to get stable 3066, now running at 2600. Probably able to get higher. Was too late to test and decided to sleep over getting that 5> frames.

Bro - 3200/3066 stable.

Done! Again, thank you all for helping. Much appreciated!
 
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MGeaR356

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Hmm so your bro and you got the same specs but one oc higher and can get better ram speeds than the other?
 

MGeaR356

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Hmm interesting man.. Assuming your rig also updated to latest bios?
 

pr0dygi

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Im on ver.0806(latest) iirc. Hes either ver.0805/0806 nt too sure but should be same.
 
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singupingu

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Cannot get 2933 for ram? Try input timing manually with the XMP profile given by manufacturer.

Also your casing, how come cannot change colour? RGB means multi colour liao lol. Casing come with a 3 way splitter for the fan, motherboard have rgb header (meant for AMD Wraith Spire LED cooler actually but can use also) using Asus AI Suite should have a LED controller for it.

Sent from PM me if you wanna build a DIY PC or wanna learn how to make one yourself :D using GAGT
 
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pr0dygi

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Ty. It worked. But abit annoying cuz it will change to red color for a moment every time I turn on and shut down.

Also hor. My Gtx1080 comes with 3 display port. I plug the monitor cable into display port 1 no image but if I put into display port 2 its working fine. Does it mean display port 1 on the GPU is spoil? Should i be concerned or nvm one?
 
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singupingu, for Masterbox Lite series, the airflow from the front fans into the case good anot ah?

I inspected the case, but think that the front fans will be starved of air because blocked by the front cover with only a few holes below to draw air from.

It's good looking tho, but I never use it for my clients, thought it wont be cooling enuff.
 

pr0dygi

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singupingu, for Masterbox Lite series, the airflow from the front fans into the case good anot ah?

I inspected the case, but think that the front fans will be starved of air because blocked by the front cover with only a few holes below to draw air from.

It's good looking tho, but I never use it for my clients, thought it wont be cooling enuff.

JJWW referring to me? If yes then u need to relax. Why would I JJWW you and then take your advice?

Anyway the air flow like quite cui leh. I was playing Overwatch on Ultra and temps hit 80 degrees for CPU and 75 degrees for GPU.

Play half way suddenly frame drop till 20fps and stay for 1-2 sec then black screen computer turn off on its own. Not sure issit because of overclock or bad parts or air flow. I overclock till 3.8mhz but i nv adjust voltage so shouldn't be because of my OC-ing right?
 
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singupingu

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Ty. It worked. But abit annoying cuz it will change to red color for a moment every time I turn on and shut down.

Also hor. My Gtx1080 comes with 3 display port. I plug the monitor cable into display port 1 no image but if I put into display port 2 its working fine. Does it mean display port 1 on the GPU is spoil? Should i be concerned or nvm one?
Both gpu or just yours? If only yours, then rma that gpu if you're not comfortable to know one of your port is not good.
singupingu, for Masterbox Lite series, the airflow from the front fans into the case good anot ah?

I inspected the case, but think that the front fans will be starved of air because blocked by the front cover with only a few holes below to draw air from.

It's good looking tho, but I never use it for my clients, thought it wont be cooling enuff.
Same concept design as FD and NZXT S340. The grille from top and bottom doesn't seems small either. See how one balance the airflow only. Keep it positive air pressure to push air out while the back 120mm maintain airflow. Airflow topic very subjective. A lot to consider whether it's "good" or not.

Sent from PM me if you wanna build a DIY PC or wanna learn how to make one yourself :D using GAGT
 

singupingu

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JJWW referring to me? If yes then u need to relax. Why would I JJWW you and then take your advice?

Anyway the air flow like quite cui leh. I was playing Overwatch on Ultra and temps hit 80 degrees for CPU and 75 degrees for GPU.

Play half way suddenly frame drop till 20fps and stay for 1-2 sec then black screen computer turn off on its own. Not sure issit because of overclock or bad parts or air flow. I overclock till 3.8mhz but i nv adjust voltage so shouldn't be because of my OC-ing right?
I never use stock voltage to OC, a tad too high to my opinion. Try set Vcore offset to about 1.25-1.27V, about there, set core frequency to 3.6-3.7GHz. If gaming hit 80 deg, your oc is too high, it shouldn't hit 70 deg even on stock cooler with oc. Under prime95 maximum heat test, your oc setting shouldn't hit 85 deg. That's how I oc usually. Also, research a bit on p-state oc, so it behave like the out of the box settings where system will run undervolt and underclock when not needing that much power and overclocked while the system need the power.

Case airflow not cui. Gpu temp looks fine to me. If choking air, gpu also very fast heat up and hit the thermal limit 82-83 deg.

Case fan curve, do adjust it accordingly. Stock setting not necessarily good.

Sent from PM me if you wanna build a DIY PC or wanna learn how to make one yourself :D using GAGT
 
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