Ponding...

nfshp253

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Was using PS3 on my old car but the sidewall seems too stiff and road noise is a bit too much. Will go for a Primacy 3 for the next tyre change unless you guys have another suggestion for comfort touring tyres.

I use a OBD2 adaptor in my car which sends data to an Android tablet running an app called Torque Pro. It'll record whatever you want from the ECU and save to a .csv file. On your computer, you can use a software called DashWare to combine the driving video and use the data in gauges.

And I'm going below the speed limit. Not that fast. I agree with Expert, there are ridiculous people going at 50km/h on the 1st lane. I encountered one when I was going at 80km/h, I had to jam the brake to avoid hitting that idiot who didn't even have the rear lights on.
 

sunsetbay

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I use a OBD2 adaptor in my car which sends data to an Android tablet running an app called Torque Pro. It'll record whatever you want from the ECU and save to a .csv file. On your computer, you can use a software called DashWare to combine the driving video and use the data in gauges.

thanks for sharing~! :s22:
 

li9ht5peed

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PS3 side wall is not that stiff. It is stiffer compared to primacy series though. Only the pilot sport 2 and pilot super sport are stiffer. The most stiff normal tires ie not run-flat, are yokohama ad08(r), bridgestone re11(a) and re71(r). The softest side walls come from continental tires, whether its sport, eco or premium contact. Goodyear F1 asymetric 2/3 also got soft walls.
 

li9ht5peed

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At about 8 seconds in, taxi and my car hit some water and skidded to the left lane.

Using Michelin Primacy HP. Still got quite a bit of tread though. I hope it's just understeering, and not hydroplaning.

I think your tire left around 2mm depth in the centre only. The tire edges with transverse grooves probably worn to almost flat already. Otherwise you should be able to go at around 95-110km/h with no hydroplanning.
 

nfshp253

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I'll have to check the tread depth it seems. So what's the softest tyre out there that doesn't compromise on performance?
 

li9ht5peed

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I'll have to check the tread depth it seems. So what's the softest tyre out there that doesn't compromise on performance?

This question has a profound or 'cheep' answer.

The first part is 'soft tire'. Whether the tire compound is made of soft rubber or not, does not depend on the side wall. All car tires are made of several different rubber compounds.

The layer inside the tire is meant to hold air;
the bead layer surrounding the rim works like a giant O-ring to seal the tire to the rim;
the side wall is made of a different rubber compound;
the central tire tread and the tread edges are also made of different compounds.

So whether the side wall is soft or not, has no bearing on how sticky it is on roads. The stiff side walls are only found on UHP (ultra high performance) tires - it is to improve cornering grip.


The second portion of the answer is regarding what tires works best on wet roads. Maximum traction on wet roads is a function of both hydrodynamic effect, and squeezed film effect.

Hydrodynamic effects comes on above 20km/hr. Hydrodynamic effect does NOT depend on your tire compound. It depends on the road surface, tread design, tire pressure, contact patch shape and water film thickness.

To go fast on wet roads, you need these wheel specifications. It may be counter-intuitive to you, but this the conclusion of many many doctorate and industrial research:

1. narrow tires. Wider tires are actually more slippery on wet roads at high speeds. But many tire shops like to sell you a different vision. Wider tires obviously cost more. More profit is the reason. Safety is NOT the reason.

2. bigger wheel diameter. Bigger overall diameter improves wet grip. However just switching from 15" to 18" rims and tires while maintaining overall wheel diameter does nothing at all.

3. high tire inflation pressure. Many people mistaken this part. They thought reducing tire pressures improves wet grip. Actually its the reverse!

4. presence of transverse and longitudinal grooves on the tread. Another hot and very sensitive topic. Many tire manufacturers advertise their tire compounds as having superior wet grip. However the truth is when hydrodynamic effects take over above 20km/hr, whether your tire compound comes from China or Michelin makes NO difference. The most important thing is the tread design. So if your pirelli PZero allows you to corner at Formula One speeds during a thunderstorm, it has everything to do with advanced tread design - the tire mould design basically.

5. total vehicle weigh is not significant. Heavy or light cars - is not important at all. Again many people think a heavier car will have better grip on super wet roads at high speeds. This topic has been the subject of alot of research many decades ago. The answer is not what you think.


Squeezed film effect works below 20km/hr. This is where tire chemistry makes an impact. Vehicle weight also helps. Squeezed film effects come into play when you travel at slow speeds in a wet MSCP, or on the road. At these speeds, obviously the tread design is not important. Wet (and dry) tire traction comes from the rubber molecules making contact with the road surface.

So if your car use China branded tires, it may have problems with wheel slippage going up a wet slope in say Clementi Mall. Loading it down with more passengers can help improve grip here.

In summary, if you are going above 20km/hr and need to make an emergency brake, please be reminded that your michelins, pirellis, continentals, yokohamas, etc are able to save you because of the tread design, which works best when the tire is almost new. The actual tire compound itself matters little when hydrodynamic effects come into play, except when the specific tire compound was chosen to maintain the shape of the sipes to ensure its ability to channel water away at maximum volumetric efficiency.

Having said that, an emergency brake is supposed to bring you to a FULL stop, so once the wheel speed goes below 20km/hr, squeezed film effects come into play, and this is where tire chemistry/compound becomes important. So if you see the car sliding forwards during e-brake, it is because of an inferior tire compound, ABS and ESP (traction control) system. Wet traction is very complicated. Got high speed part, got low speed part and got automotive sensors/actuators. The factors influencing both can be totally opposite.
 
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doody_

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This is not aquaplaning la... simply excessive drag on one side of the car due to a puddle, hence pulling your vehicle to one side as the wheels on one side are slowing down. From the way you drift to the left the puddle should be on your left side.
 

Expert

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This is not aquaplaning la... simply excessive drag on one side of the car due to a puddle, hence pulling your vehicle to one side as the wheels on one side are slowing down. From the way you drift to the left the puddle should be on your left side.

hence you need 4wd with LSD :o :crazy: :s34:
 

li9ht5peed

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If you have matlab, key these in to obtain a plot to show you the safe driving speeds at various depths of water, to ensure you do not hydroplane. Above a critical water depth of 0.1-0.4 inches, it no longer matters what kind, or brand, or condition of your tire. The tire simply floats.

t = [0.1:0.5:6];
v = (37.5 + 5.28*t.^-.5)*1.60934;
plot(t,v);

where t is the depth of water on the road in inches
and v is the hydroplaning speed in km/h.

Basically if you notice a pool of water that is around 1 inch deep and above, do not exceed 65 km/h.

It does not matter whether you got pirelli PZero or Yokohama AD08R.
It does not matter whether your tires are brand new.
It does not matter whether you got ABS or ESP.
You will hydroplane above this speed.
 
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