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Any buttie into R/C? Be it car/boat/heli/plane/tank etc.. I ish into 1/10th scale electric touring r/c car. Anyone else into this hobby?
Team ASGM!
How to mount bodies after painting them
R/C jargon:
R/C = radio control
ESC = Electronic Speed Controller
CVD = Constant Velocity Drive(shaft), connects your wheels to the differential
Full ball bearings = kit fully equipped with ball bearings
Shaft driven 4WD = front and rear axles linked by a shaft, usually metal.
Belt driven 4WD = front and rear axles linked by two toothed belts.
Tie-rods = adjustable links usually found in suspension as the upper arms and steering arms.
Heatsink = metal piece with machined out fins attached to your motor/engine/ESC to take away heat.
Motor - The lesser number of turns, the faster and more powerful the motor is. Lower number of winds mean higher top end speed but lesser torque. The reverse is true for higher winds.
E.g. a motor labelled 12x1 means it is a 12 turn motor with 1 wind.
Team ASGM!
Matrix23x said:so here is the list of current members ?
EDMW 1/10 Drifters
TheoDR (TA05)- 27.225 Skyline/"2F2F GT-R" Stratus
SayukiDR (TT01)- 26.975 360 Modena/S2000
Matrix (TT01)- 27.075 Integra Type R
OniHibiki (TT01) - 27.255 EVO VI/350z
crx84 (TT01D)- 26.995 WRX
annihilatorj2x (TT01)- 27.125
dxboy (TL01) - 27.025AM & 26.995AM
compaqnuts (yokomo)- 27.145
Revolution (TT01)- 27.025 AM Silvia S15
zzyzx (TT01)- 27.225 Ford Focus WRC
_mag3_ (TT01)- 27.255AM Subaru Impreza WRC
Hydistzation
bucky07_2001
M4FIA01
Simon1982 (TT-01)- 27.095 BMW Z4
anyone else to add into the list?
pls enourage those who r interested! to try this sexciting hobby! as u can do sexciting drifts
OniHibiki said:as promise setup requirements to make tt01 drift.
1) get the blue aluminium main shaft.
2) get a full set of ball bearings. this is available in a set from tamiya. advice you get the tamiya set and not 3rd party bearings.
3) fill up your rear gear differential casing with tamiya anti-wear (aw) grease. this will help you semi-lock your rear gear diff so drifting will be easier.
4) get pvc tyres! this is a must. not sure if you bought pvc tyres from winnie already. typically people would get pvc tyres from here and fit them onto speedmind rims. 5) reduce your steering dual rate on your transmitter a little to reduce spinout.
6) change the gearing to 25/55. 25 teeth for pinion gear, 55 teeth for spur.
7) do not put oil in your shocks. i think tt-01 doesn't come with cva oil shocks anyway so this is just fyi.
JeffEmbracedDC said:Generally you would be safe with about a 20amp discharge rate. Genrally it should be easy to find lamps that will pull 2 amps. That means if you hook up 10 bulbs in parallel you should be pretty good. What that means is that you want to hook up all of the + terminals of the bubls to the + of your battery, and the - of the bulb to the - of the battery. A good example of that is here: http://www.wsdeans.com/products/discharger/Discharger.jpg
Although, be warned. You can OVER-DISCHARGE batteries and if you do so it can harm them. Most high-end dischargers will automatically stop at a preset voltage as to not drain them too far. If you decide to make your own, you should hook up a volt meter to the battery pack and monitor it closely and only drain it to the number that the pack is rated for. This means if it's a 7.2 volt pack, you should discharge the pack till your volt meter reads 7.2v.
So to answer a little better:
If you have typical 7.2v battery packs and you want a 20 amp discharge, this would mean you would want to get approximately 140 watts worth of light bulbs. That would mean 8 bulbs rated at 20 watts should work well. If you have a 7.2v battery pack and you hook it up to 8 bulbs rated at 20 watts you should have exactly a 25 amp discharge (which should be fine). I am not sure on that math - but i think it's correct. If I am wrong someone should correct me on it.
I hope that helps you out.
-J
How to mount bodies after painting them
R/C jargon:
R/C = radio control
ESC = Electronic Speed Controller
CVD = Constant Velocity Drive(shaft), connects your wheels to the differential
Full ball bearings = kit fully equipped with ball bearings
Shaft driven 4WD = front and rear axles linked by a shaft, usually metal.
Belt driven 4WD = front and rear axles linked by two toothed belts.
Tie-rods = adjustable links usually found in suspension as the upper arms and steering arms.
Heatsink = metal piece with machined out fins attached to your motor/engine/ESC to take away heat.
Motor - The lesser number of turns, the faster and more powerful the motor is. Lower number of winds mean higher top end speed but lesser torque. The reverse is true for higher winds.
E.g. a motor labelled 12x1 means it is a 12 turn motor with 1 wind.
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