The Leather Thread

rickysim84

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Do note that the place i found in singapore, they mostly import their leather from pakistan. I am still new towards leather making and based on my experience, i still cannot determine which leather is better.

Some says italy have the best leather in the world, some says everywhere is the same. I am not that sure since that the method of tannings is somehow quite similar to each other. Or the problem could lies towards italy have a better cow compare to pakistan.
 

Toby88

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Do note that the place i found in singapore, they mostly import their leather from pakistan. I am still new towards leather making and based on my experience, i still cannot determine which leather is better.

Some says italy have the best leather in the world, some says everywhere is the same. I am not that sure since that the method of tannings is somehow quite similar to each other. Or the problem could lies towards italy have a better cow compare to pakistan.

From what i know, read it from somewhere, that tanneries do play a part in getting the best out of the skin (more so than the cows). Since italy and the european nations have more delectable taste for leathers (the fashion, the bags and stuff), tanneries have the demand to produce better quality leather. In addition, tanneries would provide top tier leathers to the big players (Hermes, Bally, Bottega and the likes) since they only pick the best, and since they do have acccess to such tanneries to survey and peruse the leathers firsthand themselves. Also, factoring in branding (its Italy, so people normally link its reputation with premium leathers), manpower costs, labour and perhaps cleanliness?

As for the cows themselves, well from my knowledge, its about how they are treated and raised? Normally, calf is preferred due to their tenderness in age, less flea bite marks, blemishes and being very supple as compared to older bigger cows (though yield per feet is better for adult cows). Maybe types of cows matter too? Just like how Wagyu beef from Japan is 'superior' to normal beef, say from Australia perhaps?
 

rickysim84

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From what i had learn is that depend on what kind of leather product u wanna made. For example, a belt, normally i will go for buffalo leather as it looks more rigid compare to cow. If u are into soft items or linings, then sheep skin or goat skin is the best. I still trying to look for bison skin and goat skin though. I had order some from the italy and some deer skin from US.

From what i know, read it from somewhere, that tanneries do play a part in getting the best out of the skin (more so than the cows). Since italy and the european nations have more delectable taste for leathers (the fashion, the bags and stuff), tanneries have the demand to produce better quality leather. In addition, tanneries would provide top tier leathers to the big players (Hermes, Bally, Bottega and the likes) since they only pick the best, and since they do have acccess to such tanneries to survey and peruse the leathers firsthand themselves. Also, factoring in branding (its Italy, so people normally link its reputation with premium leathers), manpower costs, labour and perhaps cleanliness?

As for the cows themselves, well from my knowledge, its about how they are treated and raised? Normally, calf is preferred due to their tenderness in age, less flea bite marks, blemishes and being very supple as compared to older bigger cows (though yield per feet is better for adult cows). Maybe types of cows matter too? Just like how Wagyu beef from Japan is 'superior' to normal beef, say from Australia perhaps?
 

Toby88

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From what i had learn is that depend on what kind of leather product u wanna made. For example, a belt, normally i will go for buffalo leather as it looks more rigid compare to cow. If u are into soft items or linings, then sheep skin or goat skin is the best. I still trying to look for bison skin and goat skin though. I had order some from the italy and some deer skin from US.

Totally agree to that. Every type of animal gives different applications to what product is being made.
 

rickysim84

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Just to share, this is my first leather credit card wallet V1. Still got a lot to improve though. Enjoy.

IMG_04011.jpg


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Toby88

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@rickysim84

Very nicely done, very nice burgundy leather u have there (or is it dark red?)
You can apply a few more coats of edge dye to give it a much more even coating. Also, you can control the stitching tension, some portions seem to be a little tight. And then finish up by smoothing out the stitches (either by a mallet or anything heavy), as the stitching is a little bumpy.
 

rickysim84

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@rickysim84

Very nicely done, very nice burgundy leather u have there (or is it dark red?)
You can apply a few more coats of edge dye to give it a much more even coating. Also, you can control the stitching tension, some portions seem to be a little tight. And then finish up by smoothing out the stitches (either by a mallet or anything heavy), as the stitching is a little bumpy.

Haha, thanx for the compliment. For the edge dye, i am in lack of a burnishing tools and over coat of edge dye will make it glossy which i think it is ugly. I just order a tragacanth and will try it out to see the difference.

For the stitching tension, from what i learn from youtube, i kinda pull it hard for every stitch. It could be the prong that i am using causing it to be like tat or like u said, i might need to control my tension.

For smoothing out the stitches with a mallet, i did try it on some leather and it appears that when i knock on some leather, it left a print and lighten the colour of the leather too.

My leather looks abit dark red, brown, and abit of dark brown.
 

Toby88

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Haha, thanx for the compliment. For the edge dye, i am in lack of a burnishing tools and over coat of edge dye will make it glossy which i think it is ugly. I just order a tragacanth and will try it out to see the difference.

For the stitching tension, from what i learn from youtube, i kinda pull it hard for every stitch. It could be the prong that i am using causing it to be like tat or like u said, i might need to control my tension.

For smoothing out the stitches with a mallet, i did try it on some leather and it appears that when i knock on some leather, it left a print and lighten the colour of the leather too.

My leather looks abit dark red, brown, and abit of dark brown.

To prevent direct marks from the mallet, place a scrap piece of leather onto the project (smooth side on project, rough side up) to 'soften' the blows from a mallet. Not only flattens out the stitching, it flattens out the tension creases (leather bunching up).
 

rickysim84

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To prevent direct marks from the mallet, place a scrap piece of leather onto the project (smooth side on project, rough side up) to 'soften' the blows from a mallet. Not only flattens out the stitching, it flattens out the tension creases (leather bunching up).

oh, thanx bro for the tips, will try it later. Also, i am coming up for a V2 credit card wallet, it gonna be a tough one to do.
 

jweak15

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To prevent direct marks from the mallet, place a scrap piece of leather onto the project (smooth side on project, rough side up) to 'soften' the blows from a mallet. Not only flattens out the stitching, it flattens out the tension creases (leather bunching up).

You sure know your stuff bro. You made anything thats for sale?
 

CallmeZen

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You sure know your stuff bro. You made anything thats for sale?

bought a long wallet from you before... that was when i was just introduced to leather stuff. seriously it was a bad experience come to think of it.
 

Toby88

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forsaleleathercraftkit0.jpg


Selling the above items to interested/budding leather crafters. These are my overstocked products and they are 90-95% new (used only a few times).

From left to right (foreground):

- Neutral edge dye. Made in Italy. Almost brand new, opened only once. Brand is blurred out (don't want to create copyright infringement issues), you can PM me for brand if needed be.

-Waxed polyester thread spool. Approx. 64 m (70 yard or 210 ft). Natural coloured (cream). Used only a few meters, so you would get around 60~m. Made in USA.
SOLD!

- Waxed polyester thread spool. Approx. 64 m (70 yard or 210 ft). Black coloured. Used only a few meters, so you would get around 60~m. Made in USA.
SOLD!

- Waxed polyester thread spool. Approx. 64 m (70 yard or 210 ft). Golden tan coloured (light brown). Used only a few meters, so you would get around 60~m. Made in USA.
SOLD!

- Black edge dye. Shiny coat. Made in Japan. 70ml (approx. 60~ml left). Comes already in an applicator bottle (you can use it just like that). 80% used (which explains the missing top portion, and it stops right under the yellow label).
SOLD!

Fore left to right (background):

- Home-made applicator bottle with edge dye. Improvised by myself, it contains 3/4 filled dye. Comes together with a refill (not shown in picture). Its of an unknown brand as I bought it from a friend of mine. This dye is especially matte in finishing and dries really fast, so its great for fans of matte and dry effect. Approx. 50~ml. Black colour.

- Enamel based edge dye (dries to become an acrylic finish). Shiny in nature. 30ml only (used once). Black colour. Made in Japan.
SOLD!

Do PM me if you're interested to know more and/or purchase them.
 
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Toby88

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Btw Toby, what thread u are using for hand stitch? polyester? linen? nylon? sinew?

I prefer polyester somehow, easier to manage. I have tried the others too. In terms of difficulty, linen is hardest, followed by sinew and nylon. I have think I overstocks for them too, I will take picture of all of them (except sinew).

And I prefer to use thinner threads as opposed to the normal 1mm thick waxed ones. Just like the ones I posted for sale, they are all 0.75~mm. But overall its a matter of preference, some crafters like 1mm thick ones as they 'pop' (very visible, hence showing its 'handstitched').
 

rickysim84

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I prefer polyester somehow, easier to manage. I have tried the others too. In terms of difficulty, linen is hardest, followed by sinew and nylon. I have think I overstocks for them too, I will take picture of all of them (except sinew).

And I prefer to use thinner threads as opposed to the normal 1mm thick waxed ones. Just like the ones I posted for sale, they are all 0.75~mm. But overall its a matter of preference, some crafters like 1mm thick ones as they 'pop' (very visible, hence showing its 'handstitched').

oh, i tot showing that it is hand stitch is better? Since it is custom made? Also, what kind of leather stuff that u made?
 
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