The Leather Thread

[--Lipsu--]

Very good read and well-said!
Allow me to add-on

Artistic and commercially accepted pieces are really different and reddevil76 certainly points it out clearly.
I remembered when we were apprentice, practising cutting of leathers in the master's store, we will see customers coming in asking for all sorts of customizing. The master will always push for them to accept wat it is rather than charging them higher for customizing for commercial gains, which is beneficial to him. Too many times, we see him discussing with customers what can be done and not to be done, base on the simple fact of functionality and durabilty.
Yeah, most of them will walk out because they can't get what they want and we asked our master, why don't you do it since it is his requests and he takes full responsiblilty for the crafting failure.
One sentence we always remember, it will not be an enjoyable process to make something against leathercrafting basis and in turns, the effort put in will not be wholesome, which will result in bad products.

Leathercrafting is an ancient art which last until now....the Red Indians uses leather for their daily neccessities, the Chinese uses leathers on their war tunic....These are things that affect our life and thus, it is made to last, and trusted by the ancient to last.

We are trained to produce leathercrafts that can last a lifetime (with proper maintenance).
From choosing of leather for your product you wanna use is the first and most basic. I have seen people using 8oz Veg Tan to make wallets....well I'm in no position to comments.
Cutting, this skill will affect almost anything on the edges. Use the wrong knife, and u can throw the piece away.
The design of the product, mould must be made to ensure full functionality for the design in your mind. I have seen some people do not make mould for their design and claim that the subsequent same design will be different from the first to achieve uniqueness...hahaha!

All in all, in terms of leathercrafting, it is really not as simple. If you are going to buy leathercrafts, think of it as an investment which you will gain by using it for a long time.

No, the sudden statement above does not flame or discourage anyone going into leathers, but to let people know more about leathers.

We all know leathercraftings is one up and coming trend, so just treat this as a form of information when you are choosing leather products.

 

[mikeeeey]

how much you bought it? you cut it?.. wont the end look weird for both?

Bought it at $20 a pair. The ends are actually slant cut. So i just cut it into half and cut it slant so that both sides look the same

 

[reddevil76]

The design of the product, mould must be made to ensure full functionality for the design in your mind. I have seen some people do not make mould for their design and claim that the subsequent same design will be different from the first to achieve uniqueness...hahaha!

Yes, I have seen products with for e.g. bad stitching. And the fella actually play up the crooked stitching as a sign of hand-made product. Instead of re-working the stitching, he tried to market it as a premium feature!

I think that is sad indeed.

I quote my own post in another forum:

My definition of hand-made means an artisan is with the work, every step of the way. Unlike a production piece which moves along a line unsupervised. So.. if a pair of eyes is on the product every step of the way, it should be made better than a machine-made one. No excuses.

 

[kazuki666]

Bought it at $20 a pair. The ends are actually slant cut. So i just cut it into half and cut it slant so that both sides look the same

just curious, since u all on the topics on DB laces.

u tied it like the display pic? Or ard the ankle area then tie a knod?

 

[mikeeeey]

Reddevil76 & Lipsu:

Its really very informative and learn a few new things today from your posts. Cant wait to go home and see reddevil's flickr link.

 

[Kuroba]

wow suddenly so happening here haha

@ambivalence
I was browsing home-fix store ytd and saw "mink oil with beeswax". No idea if its really pure mink oil and beeswax though. You can be guinea pig and try it out

I admit that the leathercraft is indeed an expensive hobby, one single mistake in awing a stitch hole could ruin the entire work.

quoted for truth! The worst is when you do until everything damn swee, then when doing the final steps you make one stupid error. Whole project is ruined Been through quite a fair share of that

Anyway @reddevil welcome to the forums! I think once you hit 10 posts can post pics already. I don't rmb having problems posting pics when I had 10+ posts.

Some pics to spruce up the thread.
Suede drawstring pouch to help me hold my small stuff when I go out (Couldn't be bothered to find nice laces atm, shoelaces are functional enough )

First wallet that I completed a couple of days ago, used for a few days already. Gotta admit this was quite ambitious for my fourth project. Made a hell lotta stupid mistakes . Lucky most of them can't really see from outside so still usable. Makeshift Wallet rein made for some random cord I found lying around from my practice braiding session. Still cant get the tying up at the other end though.

Rant continued in next post...

 

[Kuroba]

Actually this wallet didnt have a rein hook and rein one, but my dad kept complaining how easy it is to pick this kind of wallet so i bo bian

End up I had to add the rein hook pattern after finishing the wallet. It used to look like this:

Gotta say doing that is a nightmare. I had to sew the corners from inside the pockets which was crazily difficult. Felt like a blind man sewing. This was also where I made some of the most foolish mistakes, namely this:

Thank god I didn't sew my bill notes to the wallet!
Also accidentally poked some holes in the interior pockets =/
You can see the stretching of the pocket from trying to sew from inside the pocket

The belt clip is a different story. Horrible experience with setting the snaps. And did some foolish irreversible damage cause I didn't check the hardware that I had properly. Then i forgot to add the ring before riveting =.=. You can imagine how much I cussed while making this. Made it a little too thick also. Quite a pity since I was quite pleased with the edging on this one. Consolation was that you can't really see these screw ups when its clipped, so its still usable and I didn't have to chuck it away. But seriously, theres nothing more true than

one single mistake in awing a stitch hole could ruin the entire work

Was a great learning experience though despite so many foolish errors

 

[--Lipsu--]

My definition of hand-made means an artisan is with the work, every step of the way. Unlike a production piece which moves along a line unsupervised. So.. if a pair of eyes is on the product every step of the way, it should be made better than a machine-made one. No excuses.

Well-said, reddevil76

Have I mention on stitchings yet? I guess no.
All I have said in previous post is the beginning steps of leathercrafting, if those are not perfected, stitchings, pasting, burnishings...are all far away.

Just saw you work, peacemaker is nicely made.
Quoting from your pics (hope you dont mind), this is true handstitchings which is stronger than machine stitches. Layman may not realise, but internally, it is interlocking.

Product made by reddevil76, pics from his flickr.

 

[reddevil76]

Kuroba, nice to see you here too! Though I understand the pain of the screw ups, I must still say it was a good effort nonetheless.(personally, I would prefer for the belt clip and wallet concho to be a pair though)

And trust me, I've had my share of screw ups as well, including riveting before fixing the required ring (it happened on a belt clip once)! And being rather anal about details, I usually dump the work and start afresh. So for every wallet I put out, I probably threw out 2 others.

But what to do, it's addictive, so we keep doing it, and most importantly, we learn from it.

 

[--Lipsu--]

The worst is when you do until everything damn swee, then when doing the final steps you make one stupid error. Whole project is ruined Been through quite a fair share of that

Very true!
Where have you guys been all this while? This thread was started 2 yrs ago and only today, we find many 卧虎藏龙 crafters here.

Please keep up with all the good work.

 

[reddevil76]

Well-said, reddevil76

Have I mention on stitchings yet? I guess no.
All I have said in previous post is the beginning steps of leathercrafting, if those are not perfected, stitchings, pasting, burnishings...are all far away.

Just saw you work, peacemaker is nicely made.
Quoting from your pics (hope you dont mind), this is true handstitchings which is stronger than machine stitches. Layman may not realise, but internally, it is interlocking.

Thanks, Lipsu. I've tried to get a friend to subscribe to this dual needle method, but he still prefers his left/right single needle method.

Just for everyone's benefit, both stitching methods roughly looks the same on the outside, but like Lipsu rightly mentioned, this method, though tedious for the craftsman, produces a square knot in EVERY stitch. Offering strength and security (even if a stitch breaks, it will not unravel down the row quickly). Critical for products of load considerations, e.g. saddle making

Lipsu - Surprisingly, one of Hurst's video demonstrating the dual needle method, he actually went left/right too, only difference is that he used 2 needles simultaneously, but still he didn't produce the knot. I'm surprised to find that kind of teaching from the factory.

 

[mikeeeey]

Just curious. The stitching in the above pics. All are hand sewed?

 

[Kuroba]

Yeap thats exactly what happened to my belt clip. I just used those normal keychain rings and spun it on instead of the d ring which I had intended to put.

Ive thought of chucking it away, since the other damage that I was talking about was actaully quite serious. (something about trying to skive away a round part of the leather so I can set the snap when I actually didn't need to). But since its for myself and isn't noticeable when used, I decided to save that extra bit of leather. Really have to ration my leather properly before I start burning up whats left of my savings :/

 

[reddevil76]

Just curious. The stitching in the above pics. All are hand sewed?

Yes, sir. Hand-stitched.

 

[Kuroba]

just wondering reddevil do you own a stitching pony? Or do you have a makeshift one made from books and rubber bands like me

I saw one in hong kong but forgot to ask for the price. Any idea how much they cost?

 

[reddevil76]

just wondering reddevil do you own a stitching pony? Or do you have a makeshift one made from books and rubber bands like me

I saw one in hong kong but forgot to ask for the price. Any idea how much they cost?

I not only have a "stitching pony", I was born with it. They are... my left and right knees...

 

[Kuroba]

I not only have a "stitching pony", I was born with it. They are... my left and right knees...

wow seriously?
Back not pain meh? Haha
Respect sia

edit*
oh ok i think i know how you do it. Haha must have been a sight to see you stitching!

 

[--Lipsu--]

Lipsu - Surprisingly, one of Hurst's video demonstrating the dual needle method, he actually went left/right too, only difference is that he used 2 needles simultaneously, but still he didn't produce the knot. I'm surprised to find that kind of teaching from the factory.

After these years of learning and looking at people's work. I noticed only asian practise such stitching method. The Japanese, Taiwanese, Hong Konger, Indonesian and us, hand stitch our craft this way.
I am assuming it is due to different type of culture that was passed down previously.
Even the tools we used are different, as such, I believe the end result is diffrent.

 

[mikeeeey]

Yes, sir. Hand-stitched.

Cool.. Im impressed.

Cos it looks so uniform and neat, yet sturdy.

i apologise if i sound like a noob and didnt appreciate the sewing earlier. all along what i saw and experience were those machine sewed stitchings.. and when i chance upon the similar stitching, i wont think that its actually hand sewed.

now i appreciate these better...

 

[reddevil76]

and when i chance upon the similar stitching, i wont think that its actually hand sewed.

I actually take that as a compliment, thank you