The Spectacles Thread.

[warhunter]

anyone to advise pls?

U change e lens. As well dun buy rayban. E logo also gone no one will know is rayban.

 

[warhunter]

I m PES B1, combat fit so have to chiong sua. Got friends who have higher prescription than me in combat vocations too.

Oh ya hor. 1100 degree then pes C. Forgot haha

 

[xiaokaka]

Oh ya hor. 1100 degree then pes C. Forgot haha

my friend sph -1000 cyl -150 both eyes.

He's PES A.

 

[kypay]

1. What is the RRP for:

a. Hoya 1.7 Nulux EP Bi-asp SFT.

b. Hoya 1.7 Nulux SFT.

R: -6.00 -0.75 134
L: -7.25

2. Is it true that Hoya 1.7 len is Bi-asp only?

Thanks.....

 

[Meatycrab]

yur new specs is not ok. Which shop did you get it from? Your right side new lens axis is different from the old lens by 3 degrees that is why it can make such a big difference to you. Power not the problem as only 25degree difference. Try to wear your new lens for a week & aftertat cover your left eye again & check whether still a huge difference. If still the same means axis prescribed wrongly. If doesnt make such a huge difference anymore means you have get adjusted to new power. Hoya seldom gets the prescription wrong especially it gave you the card with your prescription on it how to go wrong? Very likely its the spec shop fault. Either prescribe your lens wrongly or didnt check your lens when hoya sent back to the shop or the last possibility is that the shop knows that your prescription is wrong but yet still dispense to you. Actually hvp or sft makes no difference. I made a small test myself with hoya sft lens. I used a screwdriver to run lightly across the sft surface & it has been proven that sft coating is not invincible. Still get scatched. Maybe just not as easily but ultimately still scratched & i didnt even use too much force in my scratch test.

Thanks for your reply! I bought it at Northern Opticians! I went back to the shop and they change the lens back to my old degree. Just got back my specs today and it is much clearer now. Strangely, the first time when I got my specs with the new degree, they gave me a cert by HOYA telling me the degree of the lens, card was not given as it was out of stock. Today when I get back my specs with the old degree, the cert was not given. Wonder if the lens that they changed is made by HOYA? Do you know how to differentiate HVP lens from other normal lens?

 

[warhunter]

my friend sph -1000 cyl -150 both eyes.

He's PES A.

800 and above is pes b liao. I think he go cmpb for screening didn't bbring his corrrect glasses cos they based on ur glasses to determine during the cmpb check

 

[warhunter]

Thanks for your reply! I bought it at Northern Opticians! I went back to the shop and they change the lens back to my old degree. Just got back my specs today and it is much clearer now. Strangely, the first time when I got my specs with the new degree, they gave me a cert by HOYA telling me the degree of the lens, card was not given as it was out of stock. Today when I get back my specs with the old degree, the cert was not given. Wonder if the lens that they changed is made by HOYA? Do you know how to differentiate HVP lens from other normal lens?

Replacemment should get cert also. Lol northern I heard the boss very niao one,customer wan change lens cos not clear, the employee will pay for the replacement. Dude u just sabo-ed a poor guy.

 

[warhunter]

I do not mean axis is 0 or 5. Axis normally is XX, I mean the right most digit is 0 or 5. Example if the axis is 78, they will round off to 80. If the axis is 87, they will round off to 85.

Actually I did not know they round off until I see the prescription they wrote has changed from my actual one, then I ask about it why. Then they say lab cannot do until so precise so must round off. Looks like actually can be done to the exact axis, but not sure why they round off.

My astig is -1.50. Lens is Hoya 1.53 Phoenix

Actuaally there is a "buffer zone" de low astig de can afford more deviation without causing a drop in visual acuity. Higher power then u need to worry. Even if you send to lab x102, depending on the lab technician. **** care ones will jusst give x100. They got no timme to give a **** **** to 2 degrees. Only higher astig like >2.25 they will give a **** ****. Cos also the cost price higher they dun wan to screw up. Haha

 

[warhunter]

If the Astig angle suay suay cut away from the lens shape.. then dont have Z logo already.

Ya I recently also make zeiss clarity 1.67AS lotutec. Also half the Z logo kena chop off.

 

[warhunter]

how much does ic berlin frames cost? and which shop has them? thx!

650-900+ mandarin gallery there. Vzion galleria have

 

[x3dnd3x]

anyone to advise pls?

Can just change the lens. I did mine for around $100 or less, can't really remember but my degree not high. Around 75 and 100 I think. I got a little bit of astig as well.

I also used my Rayban sunglass as its was the largest gun metal frame and made it into a normal pair of spec for playing snooker. I then use the original sunglass lens to fit into another frame the shop recommended.

 

[warhunter]

Can just change the lens. I did mine for around $100 or less, can't really remember but my degree not high. Around 75 and 100 I think. I got a little bit of astig as well.

I also used my Rayban sunglass as its was the largest gun metal frame and made it into a normal pair of spec for playing snooker. I then use the original sunglass lens to fit into another frame the shop recommended.

But no point. He wants a rayban aviator shades with prescription lens. After change the lens will not have rayban logo anywhere on the shades other than the inner portion of the legs. As well go bugis street to get a brandless aviator change lens. Cheaper also.

 

[Seannie]

Actuaally there is a "buffer zone" de low astig de can afford more deviation without causing a drop in visual acuity. Higher power then u need to worry. Even if you send to lab x102, depending on the lab technician. **** care ones will jusst give x100. They got no timme to give a **** **** to 2 degrees. Only higher astig like >2.25 they will give a **** ****. Cos also the cost price higher they dun wan to screw up. Haha

How can we as the patients of high astig (>300)do to ensure that the axis is to the exact measurement we require? For instance my right side eye is x2, and i want them to make sure it is really x2 and not x1 or x3. Any way? Becos even a 1deviate makes my vision blurred. Tell the optician to check for us? Or tell the shop to write down the specific remarks on the paper when they ordering the lens so that the lab can take note? Or the lab technician really don care whatever is written on the remarks??

Or by ordering double aspheric lens actually minimises the axis deviation? So that the margin of error actually minimised by the bi-aspheric design of the lens?

I need to know this answer which nobody can really confirm to me. Thanks.

 

[Seannie]

Thanks for your reply! I bought it at Northern Opticians! I went back to the shop and they change the lens back to my old degree. Just got back my specs today and it is much clearer now. Strangely, the first time when I got my specs with the new degree, they gave me a cert by HOYA telling me the degree of the lens, card was not given as it was out of stock. Today when I get back my specs with the old degree, the cert was not given. Wonder if the lens that they changed is made by HOYA? Do you know how to differentiate HVP lens from other normal lens?

try to tilt your lens up against the light & see whether you can spot the letter "H" that looks like (-) on your lens. My hoya nulux EP lenses have this logo but depends whether this logo may be cut away during edging. If you can spot this logo then defnitely HOYA. Otherwise you can try to look at the colour of the coating, though it is very similar with other brands, v hard to tell unless u took sft coating then v easy to tell.

Very obviously the shop had cheated you on the power or axis or have not done a proper job for you. Since old power is clear, rem to stick to this power until or unless another better optician can prove otherwise. I took a long time trying out many opticians in the past before i can ascertain the correct power of my eyes, up to the axis even, cos my astig high. Initially i tot my axis was x180for both eyes, but in the end realise that right side should be x2.

Remember don go back to northern opticians already. So many opticians ard no need to die die patrionise the same kind of sh**

 

[Seannie]

1. What is the RRP for:

a. Hoya 1.7 Nulux EP Bi-asp SFT.

b. Hoya 1.7 Nulux SFT.

R: -6.00 -0.75 134
L: -7.25

2. Is it true that Hoya 1.7 len is Bi-asp only?

Thanks.....

wow gg to be very expensive. My hoya 1.67 nulux EP already costs RRP550, but i managed to bargain for discount. Hoya 1.7 Nulux EP is RRP650 if hoya havent raise their pricelist yet. If you are already thinking of getting hoya might as well get the EP lah, much much better.

I just want to know for those people with low or normal power, do they feel any big difference between normal nulux and nulux EP? Nobody seems to be able to give me an answer.

 

[warhunter]

How can we as the patients of high astig (>300)do to ensure that the axis is to the exact measurement we require? For instance my right side eye is x2, and i want them to make sure it is really x2 and not x1 or x3. Any way? Becos even a 1deviate makes my vision blurred. Tell the optician to check for us? Or tell the shop to write down the specific remarks on the paper when they ordering the lens so that the lab can take note? Or the lab technician really don care whatever is written on the remarks??

Or by ordering double aspheric lens actually minimises the axis deviation? So that the margin of error actually minimised by the bi-aspheric design of the lens?

I need to know this answer which nobody can really confirm to me. Thanks.

For me. The closest I have ever cut a lens and the most accurate I got was +- 1 degree of deviation from the desired axis. It all depends on the skill of the lens cutting/mounting guy. The shop that order the lens can indicate it on the order form to follow the axis strictly but it all boils down to human/mmachine error dude. Can't do anything. Even if the guy marks the axis damn accurately and sends the lens into the grinder, the machine may still cut the axis slightly off. There is not 100%dude. Axis is the angle of orientation and has totally nothing to do with the type of lenses u use. It all depends on the skill of the grinder and the machine.

 

[warhunter]

try to tilt your lens up against the light & see whether you can spot the letter "H" that looks like (-) on your lens. My hoya nulux EP lenses have this logo but depends whether this logo may be cut away during edging. If you can spot this logo then defnitely HOYA. Otherwise you can try to look at the colour of the coating, though it is very similar with other brands, v hard to tell unless u took sft coating then v easy to tell.

Very obviously the shop had cheated you on the power or axis or have not done a proper job for you. Since old power is clear, rem to stick to this power until or unless another better optician can prove otherwise. I took a long time trying out many opticians in the past before i can ascertain the correct power of my eyes, up to the axis even, cos my astig high. Initially i tot my axis was x180for both eyes, but in the end realise that right side should be x2.

Remember don go back to northern opticians already. So many opticians ard no need to die die patrionise the same kind of sh**

Want me help you double check your prescription not? I help a lot nsf check in mmi. A lot >-10.00 ones. Test my skill. Haha

 

[Seannie]

For me. The closest I have ever cut a lens and the most accurate I got was +- 1 degree of deviation from the desired axis. It all depends on the skill of the lens cutting/mounting guy. The shop that order the lens can indicate it on the order form to follow the axis strictly but it all boils down to human/mmachine error dude. Can't do anything. Even if the guy marks the axis damn accurately and sends the lens into the grinder, the machine may still cut the axis slightly off. There is not 100%dude. Axis is the angle of orientation and has totally nothing to do with the type of lenses u use. It all depends on the skill of the grinder and the machine.

So you mean to say that we cannot expect the axis to be perfectly cut & we should try to accept the margin of error since there will surely be at least +/- 1. Dont forget we are paying alot of $ for hoya nulux EP woh... I heard that sft coating is even harder for the machine to cut the axis accurately as the sft coating is even smoother than the normal coat as such during edging the lenses will "move" during rotation as thus the error. Im not sure how much is the cost of the lens material but if we are to reject the lens, will the shop then incur a loss or still able to make a profit, albeit at a lesser amt? And can i safely conclude that if we order from reputable brands like hoya we can expect to get better accuracy & quality?

 

[warhunter]

wow gg to be very expensive. My hoya 1.67 nulux EP already costs RRP550, but i managed to bargain for discount. Hoya 1.7 Nulux EP is RRP650 if hoya havent raise their pricelist yet. If you are already thinking of getting hoya might as well get the EP lah, much much better.

I just want to know for those people with low or normal power, do they feel any big difference between normal nulux and nulux EP? Nobody seems to be able to give me an answer.

I think all these are just marketing gimmicks sia. I did nikon 1.67as seecoat and zeiss clarity 1.67as lotutec before. Zeiss can feel clearer than nikon. Nikon can feel better than normal brands. But any more than that I think all should be around the same ba because there are limitations to how fine a detail a human eye can spot. Other than prescriptive correction the sph and the cyl, the eye also subjected to higher order errors(aberrations) which limits our visual ability to 6/6 -6/3. Any more you are god.

 

[warhunter]

So you mean to say that we cannot expect the axis to be perfectly cut & we should try to accept the margin of error since there will surely be at least +/- 1. Dont forget we are paying alot of $ for hoya nulux EP woh... I heard that sft coating is even harder for the machine to cut the axis accurately as the sft coating is even smoother than the normal coat as such during edging the lenses will "move" during rotation as thus the error. Im not sure how much is the cost of the lens material but if we are to reject the lens, will the shop then incur a loss or still able to make a profit, albeit at a lesser amt? And can i safely conclude that if we order from reputable brands like hoya we can expect to get better accuracy & quality?

I already said. It all depends on the lens grinding guys hired by the labs. Whether zeiss,nikon,ess,hoya. All hire their own lens grinders. If the lens grinder dun give a ****. Your lens that come will always be ****. I dun think smooth coat is a reason. When we cut the lenses, they are mounted by a tape to the holder. The tape that is used is crazily sticky and I always have problems removing the tape. That's why I said. Its human/machine error. You can look up google. There is a guideline for the allowance of deviation for different powers of astig. If its within the allowance, labs will not do a replacement.