The Suiting Thread (Pictures and Queries)

[boysdontcryy]

All right. I guess this can be a thread dedicated to suit-related queries, and where pictures can be posted of suits that inspire, of your suits, or even of the fitting process with your tailor.

Have a fitting with a tailor, and want some objective criticism and reviews on how the coat looks on you during the fitting? Ask away.

Not sure if the proportions of the coat is correct, or if the length of the coat is right? Forum members can probably give you some advice.

Want to know if your suit appeals to the opposite (fairer sex). Ask at Cozy Cots.

 

[boysdontcryy]

This coat is by Liverano of Florence and its rounded front is iconic as can be seen in this picture of a guy based in Hong Kong. Front of the coat is cut in a (





The rounded FRONT of the coat, is quite different from the coat on this larger Caucasian guy in the picture below where the front of the coat is cut at an angle as opposed to a rounded front.

The front of the coat seems to be cut like this < as opposed to (



I quite like the 'fluid' circular front of the coat, and I had a fitting today.

Tailor did emulate the rounded front I'm keen on, but modified it slightly and advised that I shouldn't have my front cut away too much because I have a hunch, and the coat would splay open (bow open) making it look rather unsightly.

Enough talk. Here I am at the fitting.

 

[boysdontcryy]

Any tailors to recommend TS?

Can PM me if not convenient

Why don't you share whom you've shortlisted so far, and whom you know, and I'll see if I can nudge you in the right direction. Or at the very least, come up with a list of questions you can ask to test the expertise of the tailor. LOL.

 

[holidayforever]

How long and where should the ends be? Below belt area (near zipper) or what?

 

[boysdontcryy]

Well, the length of the coat is determined according to personal preferences, though in my opinion, a coat should be proportioned according to one's height and body proportions.

No point having smth excessively long, or excessively short if it doesn't look good on you. Those taller can afford to have their coat longer, whilst too long a coat on somebody short will make him look like he has stumps for legs.

Fashion trends -- shorter is better.

However, if you want smth classic and timeless, it's usually the case that the coat ends at the second joint of the thumb. I have it at about the first joint of my thumb (and sometimes between the first and second joint) because I'm quite short.

You can see why that's just a rule of thumb -- because if one's hands are exceptionally long, or exceptionally short, it throws the proportions haywire.

There is one rule that is adhered to -- the back of the coat SHOULD ALWAYS cover your buttocks.

Here's a short coat (Too short for me thought some might feel that it's fashionable and hip). Compare that with those that the other guys are wearing. I find those far more elegant, even if not 'fashionable'.

How long and where should the ends be? Below belt area (near zipper) or what?

 

[yang86]

Currently am considering Iris, k by ks or Dylan and sons for mine. Any advice or reviews?

 

[boysdontcryy]

I don't want to step on anybody's toes, and I'm choosing my words carefully.

I think the work produced by Iris, as seen on Arc, and a few others like GShen look the best out of the work I've seen coming from all three.

There are certain 'grey areas' -- We don't know if the customer specified certain requests that could have potentially affected how the coat looked, or if the tailor was left to their own devices, etc.

Currently am considering Iris, k by ks or Dylan and sons for mine. Any advice or reviews?

 

[boysdontcryy]

Do these usual suspects below sound familiar to you?

What type of fabrics do you intend to use?

Just out of curiosity, where do you get your suits tailored. Looking at an 8-9oz suiting fabric, the damage must be pretty steep. Care to share?

Thanks

 

[boysdontcryy]

On the question as to how much I spend on my suits. I've had suits made up all over the world. Let's just say I've spent quite a small fortune on them.

Objectively speaking, in terms of fit, the standard of English tailors are better, though some HK tailors are a very close second. In Singapore, I only know of one who make a coat to standards that meet my expectations.

With regards to hand-work, English tailors win hands down.

A suit is not cheap, but it lasts a long time. Some clothing pass in and out of fashion, a suit has been worn by gentlemen since, well, the 'beginning of time'. A suit, unlike machine-made clothing, is relatively difficult to make, and EXTREMELY time consuming by modern industrial standards.

 

[boysdontcryy]

 

[dominique_kwok]

I don't want to step on anybody's toes, and I'm choosing my words carefully.

I think the work produced by Iris, as seen on Arc, and a few others like GShen look the best out of the work I've seen coming from all three.

There are certain 'grey areas' -- We don't know if the customer specified certain requests that could have potentially affected how the coat looked, or if the tailor was left to their own devices, etc.

These usual suspects do sound familiar to me. In fact I checked out Iris and an unlined suit there actually costs close to 2k. You have deep pockets. forgo 6 suits from iris and you will have just about enough for a secondhand Daytona if you put in the necessary legwork.

K by kseah and dylan would no doubt cost even more than iris. I guess it's a matter of taking a plunge

 

[boysdontcryy]

Ask them about their VBC fabrics. Should be cheaper. SHOULD be mid thousand.

Yea, a suit is not cheap. I admit that! But you pay for the quality, and work, and not the brand. Na mean?

A second-hand Daytona costs 12k?!

These usual suspects do sound familiar to me. In fact I checked out Iris and an unlined suit there actually costs close to 2k. You have deep pockets. forgo 6 suits from iris and you will have just about enough for a secondhand Daytona if you put in the necessary legwork.

K by kseah and dylan would no doubt cost even more than iris. I guess it's a matter of taking a plunge

 

[i.curtis]

These usual suspects do sound familiar to me. In fact I checked out Iris and an unlined suit there actually costs close to 2k. You have deep pockets. forgo 6 suits from iris and you will have just about enough for a secondhand Daytona if you put in the necessary legwork.

K by kseah and dylan would no doubt cost even more than iris. I guess it's a matter of taking a plunge

Iris cost 2k for an unlined suit? Thats crazy!

And not true! I checked with KBKS they dont charge extra for unlined. From $1400 still. Was thinking of doing an unlined in this weather! No idea about dylan thou, anyone have any info

 

[Soul108]

I just went over to IRIS and was quoted north of 2k for Zegna fabric.

boysdontcryy
Yes the VBC were around 1.3 onwards I think.

 

[boysdontcryy]

No wonder. Honestly, I think VBC is probably good for a start! If you can't fathom wearing suits as much, just bespeak a sports jacket/blazer. Far more casual and you can wear it about.

I just went over to IRIS and was quoted north of 2k for Zegna fabric.

boysdontcryy
Yes the VBC were around 1.3 onwards I think.

 

[Soul108]

No wonder. Honestly, I think VBC is probably good for a start! If you can't fathom wearing suits as much, just bespeak a sports jacket/blazer. Far more casual and you can wear it about.

Boysdontcryy
It's for the office. I'm not sure the colour and fabric coz I haven't decided. I did pay a deposit and the first fitting is next week.. lol.. my role might need me to meet ppl at senior levels so I reckon now is as good as ever to get a decent suit rather then use the otr from g2000 that doesn't fit well.

I might still go for the VBC ones. Will see what the wife say. She's has a much better fashion sense.

 

[boysdontcryy]

I presume you want the trousers to hang straight without unsightly creases (safe for the straight crease down the middle)? Like this pair on me below?

*I'm short, so take that into consideration.





I used to have that creasing-about-the-knees problem, and on shorter guys like myself, it really, really, really cuts one's legs up into sections and makes you look really bad. My partner, and her other lady friends say so. If the women think so ...

In any case, the answer to your question is that it's probably in part to do with your standing posture, and at another level because you PROBABLY have prominent calves and your trousers are cut wayyy too slim. Plus the fabric also matters. Thus there's all this terrible creasing about the knees.

I personally prefer a sharp crease right down the center. To me, it's gives for an overall sharper look.

Take a look at this picture below (not of me):

Spoiler

BTW do you know what causes the crumpling around the knee area? I have a similar chino with that problem and don't know how to lessen it. Overall looking good!

 

[boysdontcryy]

In Search of Grandfather's Style - WSJ.com

 

[elpis55]

Had a sports jacket made from the person in the photo.

To be honest, he looks really good in what he makes.

But if you notice carefully, he prefers a longer jacket which many may not prefer, the one that he made for me was too long and I went elsewhere to alter it)

His shoulders are also pretty boxy which may not suit others. For me. I have very sloping shoulders, to which his jacket does not look nice on me.

But credits to him, his business seems to be doing pretty welll now.

Perhaps I can post the photos on his jacket on me and another jacket for comparison.

 

[elpis55]

Anyone knows what suiting material Iris carries?

Mainly English or Italian Cloth?

Iris cost 2k for an unlined suit? Thats crazy!

And not true! I checked with KBKS they dont charge extra for unlined. From $1400 still. Was thinking of doing an unlined in this weather! No idea about dylan thou, anyone have any info