[Trip Report] Shikoku (18 Oct - 1 Nov 2014)

[evilerniex]

other then us, there are only a few other visitors at Kimiidera

view of the coast from Kimiidera

from Kimiidera, we walk about 30min to Kankaikaku. the pavilion is suppose to have very good view of the sea. however, it was already raining when we reach there and the sky is all gloomy, so the view wasn't good

late lunch at a random curry rice restaurant to hide from the rain

 

[evilerniex]

took a train back to KIX for the domestic flight to Matsuyama. Matsuyama is only about 50min by plane from KIX and domestic flight on Peach as be as cheap as 990yen one-way during promotion. my flight was more expensive though, coz didn't manage to get the promotion and i have check-in luggage also.

Matsuyama the capital of Ehime prefecture and is the largest city in Shikoku. there is no train from Matsuyama airport to the city, so have to take a short 15min bus ride which cost 310yen to JR Matsuyama station.

we had omu-soba and takoyaki at a small eatery ran by an old couple. taste great!

 

[evilerniex]

Matsuyama city is served by a network of trams so we bought a day pass for 400yen (it is 160yen per trip otherwise, regardless of distance).

We took the tram to Kenchomae stop and walked uphill to Matsuyama castle. The alternative, which is the more common way is to stop at Okaido and walk to the ropeway station along a touristy street with lots of souvenir shops. the ropeway cost 510yen for a round-trip ticket.

Matsuyama is one of the few original castles in Japan and is located on a top of a small hill.

 

[evilerniex]

the view from he castle is great. can see the entire city as well as Seto Inland sea

 

[evilerniex]

after visiting the castle, we took a different path down the hill and ended up at the ropeway station. from there, it is a short walk to Okaido tram-stop, which is at one end of the covered shopping street. the shopping street stretches to Matsuyama-shi, which is the heart of Matsuyama city (no, the heart is not at the JR station).

Ferris wheel at the top of Takashimaya shopping centre. I dunno why Japanese are so obsessed with Ferris wheel. there is at least one in almost all cities.

roof of the shopping centre

cute cakes sold in taka

 

[evilerniex]

from Matsuyama-shi we took a tram to Dogo Onsen
Dogo onsen station

Botchan train

 

[evilerniex]

Dogo Onsen Honkan is said to be the inspiration behind the bathhouse in Spirited Away. there are 4 levels in the building with various onsen and rest areas. there are different price levels, with the most expensive at 1550yen which includes all the onsen, private rest area, snacks and towels. We took the cheapest one at 400yen which only allow us access to one onsen on the first floor.

 

[evilerniex]

saw many shops selling this cake, so we bought one to try. nothing special, just cake with red bean paste fillings

Botchan Clock

clock transform into this at every hour, with moving characters and music

 

[evilerniex]

we waited around at the area for the sky to get dark for some photos of Dogo Onsen Honkan at night

 

[evilerniex]

took the tram back to Okaido shopping street to look for dinner.
This ramen restaurant is super nice. dunno the name, we just randomly went in.

 

[kifo]

Wah!! I would have splurged for the most expensive level 4 onsen bath cum private tatami room experience at Dogo! It is the oldest onsen in Japan. Plus the Botchan dango!

Just start from 5:03

 

[evilerniex]

some websites actually listed Tsuboyu in Yunomine Onsen town in Kumano region as the oldest onsen in Japan:

but yah, on hindsight shld have just whacked the full package for the experience even though i am not that into onsen

 

[kifo]

some websites actually listed Tsuboyu in Yunomine Onsen town in Kumano region as the oldest onsen in Japan:

but yah, on hindsight shld have just whacked the full package for the experience even though i am not that into onsen

Hahaha I was at the Yunomine Onsen, but I also didn't go into Tsuboyu. There was a long queue of people who have signed up for the onsen and after going into the one in my ryokan, I was too lazy to go out into the cold and try that Tsuboyu. But Tsuboyu is like bathing in a toilet cos the whole place is so small, so I don't think I miss too much. In fact, I rather regret missing the chance to jump into the Sennin buro in the neighboring town Kawayu Onsen. If I ever go back to Kumano, I will surely go on Kawayu Onsen.

 

[evilerniex]

I missed the sennin buro also.. Too early when I was there.

Tsuboyu was ok lah, I was the only one there at that time, so I had the whole place to myself

Sent from GAGT Android App

 

[evilerniex]

Shikoku Karst

rented a car for 3 days for this part of the journey to coz the places we are visiting are quite out of the way and public transport is limited or total no available.

the plan was to drive from Matsuyama to Mount Ishizuchi, then to Shikoku Karst for the first night, then explore Shikoku Karst and drive down to Uwajima for the second night. however, the weather forecast for the first day indicted rain and thunderstorm, which is not very safe for trekking on Mount Ishizuchi. so we switched Shikoku Karst to the first day and Ishizuchi to second day. it would mean a lot of extra driving and have to drop some places due to lack of time.

we headed straight to Shikoku Karst for check-in at Mezuru-sho. had a bit of problem at the accom coz the staff doesn't speak English at all. the accom was booked thru the phone with the help of dimitri_can (thanks can! ) and there were no confirmation email or anything to show. my translation app also couldn't work as there is not data network in the area, not even b-mobile. trying hard to tell the staff we had a reservation, until finally one of the staff asked "can-san?"... then we went "hai, hai". think it helps that we are the only guest staying at the place. probably off season for them.

Mezuru-sho. whole place was getting very misty

our huge twin western room

 

[evilerniex]

we tried going out to explore the area around Mezuru, however the mist is too thick and the visibility is less than 20m. cant see anything!

so bobain, have to return accom and just hang around until dinner time. there were no other guest, so the whole dining area is empty

dinner was great! quite surprise to have fishes coz we are in mountainous area and fish shld be hard to get

 

[evilerniex]

as we were unable to see anything the previous day, we decided to get up earlier to explore Shikoku Karst. breakfast provided at the accom is at 7.30am, so we have slighlty more than an hour from daybreak to breakfast time.


we were rewarded with beautiful view of the area

 

[evilerniex]

lots of these rocks all over the place

 

[evilerniex]

mist started forming again. we were lucky to have a least a few shots of Shikoku Karst. quite wasted that we couldn't explore more coz there are quite a few hiking trails there with very good panoramic view.


back to accom for breakfast. breakfast we simple compared to the large spread for dinner. anyone knows wat the raw egg is for? I mixed it into the rice, but rice is warm only, so it became a sticky mess

 

[sereneong19]

mist started forming again. we were lucky to have a least a few shots of Shikoku Karst. quite wasted that we couldn't explore more coz there are quite a few hiking trails there with very good panoramic view.


back to accom for breakfast. breakfast we simple compared to the large spread for dinner. anyone knows wat the raw egg is for? I mixed it into the rice, but rice is warm only, so it became a sticky mess

yup...egg mixed into rice with drops of shoyu (if there is) and you can wrap the rice with the seaweed which was given.