Where to tailor clothes =D - Part 3

[ry2nl33]

Hello! I need some trouser for work but the issue is my calves are huge. I usually need to wear 1 to 2 size up regular fit trouser OTR jsut so that my calves can go in. Any tailor to recommend

 

[chaobotak]

How long will Meng Yee alteration take to alter a pair of pants?

 

[paladin]

Does anyone have any recommendations for casual linen mandarin collar shirts and linen pants? Those like at muji but thicker such that you can’t see through. Not so much for work but more for dressed up weekends. Been looking at Assemble which is the style I’m envisioning but not sure about the quality/bang for buck.

Do all the tailors have linen fabrics similar to the style of Assemble? I found one similar one from este bartin () and it’s from their cotton linen series.

Happy to hear recommendations for a budget around $130 per shirt/pants maximum. TIA!

Ethan men also offers this, saw it from their latest Instagram photo

 

[iwanttoask]

Hi experts,

Out of touch from the suit game, does anyone have suggestions from experience for a few suit tailor in the range of 300 to 500?

Classic style will do, less is more. Don't really forsee wearing suit more than twice a year so that dollar per usage seems high beyond my pricing range if i maintain my weight over 3 years. Woops.

Thank you.

 

[paladin]

Hi experts,

Out of touch from the suit game, does anyone have suggestions from experience for a few suit tailor in the range of 300 to 500?

Classic style will do, less is more. Don't really forsee wearing suit more than twice a year so that dollar per usage seems high beyond my pricing range if i maintain my weight over 3 years. Woops.

Thank you.

I did not tailor at this price point but Sakal, suityourself and suitcommune offers poly/wool at this price point. May be fused construction and not half canvassed construction too.

Check the pros and cons of different fabrics materials here.

http://www.sakal.com.sg/our-array-of-fabrics.html
otherwise you can try the under $500 tailors recommended by wahsoshiok. However, inflation now means the prices have increased for all tailors.

https://www.wahsoshiok.com/feature-10-affordable-tailors-in-singapore/

 

[Rong626]

100% cotton unlined ok for singapore weather? I want to make a double breasted suit to wear for fun on weekends

 

[paladin]

100% cotton unlined ok for singapore weather? I want to make a double breasted suit to wear for fun on weekends

Cotton suit is ok, but the weave matters.

if you are thinking of washing in washing machine, you need full canvassed construction too, else the fused links will bubble and detach after sometime.

 

[darthsid11111]

100% cotton unlined ok for singapore weather? I want to make a double breasted suit to wear for fun on weekends

Linen would be better. Cotton is not "breathable" so it gets humid very quickly within the jacket. If you plan on machine washing get one without canvassing or fusing similar to a shirt jacket. If a tailor tells you that a fused or canvassed jacket can be machine washed he just wants you to ruin your jacket faster for repeat business or is utterly incompetent.

 

[Clinomania]

Linen would be better. Cotton is not "breathable" so it gets humid very quickly within the jacket. If you plan on machine washing get one without canvassing or fusing similar to a shirt jacket. If a tailor tells you that a fused or canvassed jacket can be machine washed he just wants you to ruin your jacket faster for repeat business or is utterly incompetent.

Agree. I can't believe that machine wash is advised here - I won't even go into the fit issues stemming from the potential shrinkage from machine washing. But what do I know, I have no vested interest in a tailor unlike a forumer here:

From the carousell page of a certain forumer, palaxxx, draw your own conclusions.

 

[onizuka3]

any recommendations for work pants?

> $100 will Sze Sze

how about $100-$150 ?

 

[darthsid11111]

Agree. I can't believe that machine wash is advised here - I won't even go into the fit issues stemming from the potential shrinkage from machine washing. But what do I know, I have no vested interest in a tailor unlike a forumer here:

From the carousell page of a certain forumer, palaxxx, draw your own conclusions.

Oh so to make it clear you're saying thay @paladin the know it all with bad taste in suits giving bad advice here sells fabrics and has intimate dealings with Sakal?

Is that why he keeps reccomending Sakal? Is this an indictment of Sakal as a business that either they themselves or the people they work closely with or ignorant about tailoring? Is talking about oblique suits more important then knowing that machine washing a canvassed jacket will ruin the canvas? Wow so many questions.

 

[Clinomania]

Oh so to make it clear you're saying thay @paladin the know it all with bad taste in suits giving bad advice here sells fabrics and has intimate dealings with Sakal?

Is that why he keeps reccomending Sakal? Is this an indictment of Sakal as a business that either they themselves or the people they work closely with or ignorant about tailoring? Is talking about oblique suits more important then knowing that machine washing a canvassed jacket will ruin the canvas? Wow so many questions.

Please, I am not suggesting anything, nor am I implying that the certain forumer, xxxxdin is indeed paladin, no doxx please. I am pretty sure that neither Paladin or Sakal would stoop so low to peddle their wares here. The former is an authority here while the latter is the pinnacle of Saville Row tailoring with their 10 pocket cargo shorts.

 

[darthsid11111]

any recommendations for work pants?

> $100 will Sze Sze

how about $100-$150 ?

Woohoo! In on 1st page of part 3!

Pasting what LHB posted on the dark side:

Prices indicated are for shirts as a guide. If in doubt, call the tailor to ask.

Cater at least 2 weeks of turnaround for shirts/pants and 6-8 weeks for suits.

For flak received for over-estimating the intelligence of some beings:
Suit - this refers to a a set of jacket and pants made in the same fabric.
Jacket - can refer to a standalone/odd jacket or jacket as part of a suit.
Pants - Well... Pants, duh.
2pc Suit - Jacket & pants
3pc Suit - Jacket, vest, pants.

Try At Your Own Risk

Marcella (now defunct)
Address: Where-ever

K Tailors
Address: Unknown


Budget Tailors ~$100

Personality
Address: 3 Coleman St #03-24 Peninsula Shopping Centre S(179804)

Men's tradition
Address: 3 Coleman St #03-27 Peninsula Hotel S(179804)

Dreamland
Address: 3 Coleman St #03-05 Peninsula Hotel S(179804)

Lai En
Address: Blk 2, Defu Lane 10, #02-531

Este Bartin
Address: Toa Payoh Lorong 1. Blk 128. #01-829

KIMDO CLOTHES MANUFACTORY
Address: 85 Genting Lane #02-02 Guan Hua Warehouse Bldg S(349569)

GRANDCITY
Address: 52 Ubi Ave 3 #04-38 Frontier S(408867)

Sze Sze
Address: 531 Upper Cross Street, #02-12 Hong Lim Complex, Singapore 050531

Dickson Menswear
Address: Bras Basah Complex, #01-31

Xin En
Address: Blk 406 Tampinies St 41



Mid-Range Tailors ~$150

LUSSO Tailors (Renamed to Seamless Bespoke after 1st Aug 2017)
Address: 17 A/B Circular Road

HWA SENG TEXTILE (HST)
Address: Gemini@Sims, No. 2 Sims Close #07-12, Singapore 387298
*Prices indicated above are for sales/promotion periods. Otherwise, expect to pay around $200 for shirts.

Q Menswear
Address: 116A Telok Ayer Street

CYC Men’s Tailor
Address: 328 North Bridge Road #02-12 Raffles Hotel Arcade Singapore 188719
Address: 277 Orchard Road #03-16A Orchard Gateway Singapore 238858
Address: 9 Raffles Place #01-21 Republic Plaza II Singapore 048619

Mr Bulli & Sons
Address: 9 Raffles Boulevard #01-69 Millennia Walk Singapore 039596

Rossi Apparel
Address: Millennia Walk No. 9 Raffles Boulevard, #01-36 Singapore 039596
Address: Hitachi Tower No. 16 Collyer Quay #01-10 Singapore 049318

Hertslet & Co
Address: 314C JOO CHIAT ROAD

Private Affairs
Address: 247 Beach Road Level 2

The Assembly Co.
No walk in address anymore.



Higher End Tailors >$200

Dylan & Sons - Merging with KJ
Address: 147A, Telok Ayer Street, Singapore 068606

K by Kevin Seah
Address: 55 Boat Quay Level 3, Singapore 049844

Pimabs
Address: 32B Boat Quay 3rd Floor, Singapore 049821

Meiko
Address: 7 Raffles Boulevard, The Pan Pacific Singapore #02-01
Singapore 039595

In-Personam (Resident Dandy)
Address: Somewhere in Cuscaden

Straits of Asia
Address: 1 Yishun Industrial Street 1, Suite 07-27

The Prestigious (helmed by THE Thomas Wong)
Address: 62B Boat Quay Road, Singapore 049850

My friend, this is a genuine list compiled by someone who is genuinely lnowledgeable and unaffiliated with any tailoring business.

Or maybe 10 pocket cargo pants are your thing then you can wait for the shill to come and push his wares.

 

[paladin]

just to clarify, I am NOT advising to machine wash as a better option to dry cleaning, I am saying if this double breasted cotton suit owner wants to or is thinking to machine wash as a reason for selecting cotton as the material of choice for the fabric, from online research, this is possible if certain steps are done, because cotton, as a plant fiber, is not dry clean only.

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/how-to-wash-a-suit-at-home/
https://www.cleanipedia.com/gb/laundry/how-to-wash-a-suit.html
https://www.studiosuits.com/blog/how-to-clean-a-suit-without-dry-cleaning/
Second, I have always been transparent that I sell fabrics and because I have a full time job and limited space at my house, I put some of my fabrics at Sakal for buyers to collect at their own pleasure. Many of those who bought from me are employees of prominent tailors here or retired tailors because a layman will not know brand names of Dormeuil and Scabal, the quality of fabric, their normal prices that you pay at the tailors and the value I offer. So technically speaking, those who bought from me, are mostly very passionate about tailoring to know and mind the quality of the fabrics.

Anyway, thanks for doing the marketing, link to my Carousell below!

 

[darthsid11111]

just to clarify, I am NOT advising to machine wash as a better option to dry cleaning, I am saying if this double breasted cotton suit owner wants to or is thinking to machine wash as a reason for selecting cotton as the material of choice for the fabric, from online research, this is possible if certain steps are done, because cotton, as a vegetable fiber, is not dry clean only.

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/how-to-wash-a-suit-at-home/
https://www.cleanipedia.com/gb/laundry/how-to-wash-a-suit.html
https://www.studiosuits.com/blog/how-to-clean-a-suit-without-dry-cleaning/
Second, I have always been transparent that I sell fabrics and because I have a full time job and limited space at my house, I put some of my fabrics at Sakal for buyers to collect at their own pleasure. Many of those who bought from me are employees of prominent tailors here or retired tailors because a layman will not know brand names of Dormeuil and Scabal, the quality of fabric, their normal prices that you pay at the tailors and the value I offer. So technically speaking, those who bought from me, are mostly very passionate about tailoring to know and mind the quality of the fabrics.

Anyway, thanks for doing the marketing, link to my Carousell below!

Yes you can wash cotton but not the canvas lol. Empty vessels do make the most noise.

 

[paladin]

Yes you can wash cotton but not the canvas lol. Empty vessels do make the most noise.

You are probably ignorant of cotton or hemp based canvas that are preshrunk, pressed and steamed. Ignorant people accuse first. Canvas are either wool/hair based or cotton based. I expect that from you who do not read up. Obviously you also did not read the 3 articles that mentioned washing suits ( including canvassed) before firing your post. Stay learned my friend!

https://www.biasbespoke.com/sewingfaqs.html

 

[Clinomania]

You are probably ignorant of cotton or linen based canvas that are preshrunk, pressed and steamed. Ignorant people accuse first. Canvas are either wool/hair based or cotton based. I expect that from you who do not read up. Obviously you also did not read the 3 articles that mentioned washing suits ( including canvassed) before firing your post. Stay learned my friend!

https://www.biasbespoke.com/sewingfaqs.html

Please do not perpetuate misinformation - you obviously don't know what we are talking about. Machine washing is inherently risky even for non-wool fabrics, period. Good luck pressing your jacket into place after machine washing barring shrinkage issues aside.

 

[paladin]

Please do not perpetuate misinformation - you obviously don't know what we are talking about. Machine washing is inherently risky even for non-wool fabrics, period. Good luck pressing your jacket into place after machine washing barring shrinkage issues aside.

This point is moot because dry cleaning includes pressing. Try dry cleaning a cotton suit without pressing. Pressing is usually needed for cotton (except seersucker) or linen clothes.

Technology has evolved with washing machines offering delicate spins cycles etc. Otherwise your dry cleaner will not offer laundry wash for jackets.

And cotton for tailoring is sanforised cotton. Unsanforised cotton like some denim will shrink badly after 1st wash and bleed badly. Unsanforised cotton is for deninheads who want to fade the dye on their jackets or jeans naturally and not bleed the dye prematurely. Sanforised cotton are prestrunk and do not shrink much. There are 2 types of shrinkage, the first is the first wash, the second is the tension relaxation which occurs during washing which can shrink a bit, but stretch out as you wear the cotton. This shrinkage is insignificant for preshrunk fabrics. Otherwise you have to tailor one size bigger for cotton shirts, Safari jackets, chinos or jeans.

Again, I am not recommending machine wash as a better option but this is a possibility in this modern era with the right steps. Just because you are not exposed doesn't mean it cannot be done. Just because your tailor only has horsehair canvas doesn't mean there isn't cotton based canvas, which is what tailoring is about, to tailor to meet the customer requirements, rather than say that is the only one. Vegan suit has been around for many years and getting popular (though no need to go vegan for buttons too).

Tailoring is constantly evolving to meet different needs and budget. I can understand your full wool suit cost $2000 and you want to dry clean for $15. This is no brainer. However, a cotton suit will cost $150 to $500 depending on RTW or MTM, construction and then washing becomes an interesting option if one needs to clean often and spend $300 annually at the dry cleaner. As my cost points are much lower, washing is something I think about, probably not you and Darth since your cost points are much higher.

 

[paladin]

Cotton suit is ok, but the weave matters.

if you are thinking of washing in washing machine, you need full canvassed construction too, else the fused links will bubble and detach after sometime.

Btw, seersucker ( a type of weave from cotton) suit is popular for our weather. IMHO, better than pure linen, which wrinkle too much on its own for a suit. Of course, there are also wool linen, wool cotton and cotton linen blends.

 

[darthsid11111]

PSA TLDR: @paladin is a shill for SAKAL and the cheap rubbish they produce. However, he disguises his ignorance through insults and WOT. Avoid SAKAL like the plague because they're massively incompetent.