TLN's Two Cents for CNY Wine - Bring on the Bakkwa!
Every year TLN gets emails asking, "What is the best wine for Chinese New Year?"
The answer isn't simple: Chinese New Year is a feast, which means it calls for a feast of wine flavours to compliment the symbolic festive foods. That opens up an entire wine world of possibility - fortunately for all of us, it affords a lifetime of annual experimentation in our quest to find the perfect wine!
With that, TLN has done a CNY pairing event each year. There are always clear winners, and occasionally real losers, but mostly we have found that wine can compliment just about everything on the menu - including the sweet cakes!
At this year's event we served the Singapore lo-hei - or as we at TLN fondly like to call it - the "fish toss". This is such a clever dish both symbolically and flavorfully, but all that sweetness in the sauce requires a vibrant acid line in the wine to balance the sweetness BUT not kill that delicious aftertaste.
Our top pairing this year was the Reyneke Chenin Blanc, which is an old-vine Chenin Blanc from South Africa. What makes it work is that the wine has a rich, honeyed fruit taste but at the same time very refreshing, and cleansing acidity. It is not at all aggressive acid, but rather melds nicely with the sugar. Plus the rich, oaky flavours of the wine add some depth and compliment the flavours.
For the Bakkwa we had a split decision. 1/2 of the Local Noses like the Castellare Chianti while the other 1/2 opted for the mystery wine - Mad Rooster - that has yet to appear on TLN (Available at Rev also like the Chenin). What worked well in both wines was the savoury, earthy flavours alongside very crisp acidity.
The Castellare Chianti (made with the Sangiovese grape) is a really juicy, easy-going red wine with a good concentration of red cherry flavour, soft tannins (meaning not too bitter and dry) and mouthwatering acid. This combo is great to counter the sweet, fatty bakkwa.
The Mad Rooster had much the same taste profile though a lot of added spiciness to the flavour. It's made with an "unknown" grape, that's right...the vineyard (Vynfields in Martinborough, NZ) isn't quite sure exactly what the grape is. It appears to be a mutation of Pinot Noir that has some Syrah spiciness to the character, but then again some more tannins too like Cabernet Sauvignon. Who knows? It's a Mad Rooster of a grape!
It went well with Bakkwa though...
Other past favourite pairings for these two CNY dishes are:
Misha's Dress Circle Pinot Gris
Allendorf Illusion Riesling ( or the sparkling, or actually any of the Allendorf wines at Magma - they are delish!)
The Grand Bajoz, Toro 2010 from Le Vigne (just recommended this week and will be posted soon)
Conca Tre Pile Barbera
And as I did the links for these wines I just realized that they are all "Excellent Buys" on top of being good pairings! So go out and try these wines to welcome in the Year of the Snake!