darthsid11111
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Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2
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Why not ed et al?
All in a Day
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Yeossal already in operation? Is this RTW or MTO?
All in a Day
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Relatively simple and common service that most cobblers will avail. Popular ones include mr minit. I use solemann in raffles place. There is a chap DIY at $18. Check out some posts back on this same thread.
Good luck!
RTW. Contacted him early when I knew he is bringing AM in. I would have also gotten the split toe derby (centurion) if I don't already have a dover that's so so close.
All in a Day
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You are really resourceful!
ducky_88
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Did anyone try this during the raining season?
http://list.qoo10.sg/item/RAIN-BOOTS...TORS/427409896
http://list.qoo10.sg/item/RAIN-BOOTS...TORS/427409896
Hi Guys!
As most of u guys know i have a new pair of Loake aldwych.
Is it recommend to add a sole to prolong its lifespan?
If it is so, which cobblers provide good sole service for the shoes?
Understand that there has already been quite a number of recommendations for cobblers in this thread already.
Would appreciate if you guys can point me to a consolidated list of the recommended cobblers as well.
As most of u guys know i have a new pair of Loake aldwych.
Is it recommend to add a sole to prolong its lifespan?
If it is so, which cobblers provide good sole service for the shoes?
Understand that there has already been quite a number of recommendations for cobblers in this thread already.
Would appreciate if you guys can point me to a consolidated list of the recommended cobblers as well.
All in a Day
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Think you might be talking about what is commonly referred to as "topy".
Ultimately it is a fairly personal decision. Some frown on topy, some don't.
The official stand of the various shoemakers would be NOT to topy as the shoes aren't designed to be "topied" and the integrity of your shoe construction would be compromised by such a modification.
On a list of cobblers, check out some of the earlier posts within the last week or so. Quite abit of posts on this topic.
thundermarch
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The main "argument" against the use of topys has little / nothing to do with the structural integrity of the shoes.
Though the outsole is buffed / sanded down a little for the topy to sit flush with the surface of the outsole, the outsole stitching is typically intact.
The topy also in no way, affects the inseam. Thus, it does not compromise the structural integrity of the shoe.
The problem, however, is that the topy may give rise to issues with regards to "breathability" of the OUTSOLE. By breathability, I am referring to water permeability.
When your foot is in the shoe, moisture, in the form of perspiration, starts to accumulate. Ideally, the less it accumulates, or the more easily it evaporates or escapes, the better. This perspiration can dissipate to some extent as your feet are in the shoes, but it mostly occurs after you remove them. There are a few ways that sweat can dissipate
1) After the sweat travels from the socks to the lining, it can evaporate directly from the lining.
2) Sweat soaks through from the lining, into the uppers, then through the uppers, and evaporates into the environment.
3) Sweat goes through the sock liner and into the insole, through the filler material, through the outsole and then from the outsole eventually evaporating into the environment.
4) To some extent, when trees are in the shoes, sweat may also be absorbed into the substance of the wood, if the surface of the trees are not coated with an impermeable finish.
5) Sweat goes through the sock liner into the insole, and then evaporates from the insole (after your feet are removed from the shoes).
Pertaining specfically to point number 3, the use of a topy may affect the movement of water from the outsole into the environment, thus causing sweat accumulation in the outsole AND insole, since rubber is impermeable to water.
The counter argument to this, which makes perfect sense as well, is that the filler material (usually cork) and the cement (petroleum derivative) used to adhere the filler to the insole and outsole, are already water impermeable to begin with. Thus, the use of a topy in such shoes, would probably not matter anyway, and not significantly affect the water permeability properties.
I agree with this.
As a side note, I would say that almost ALL industrially-made shoes use cork and cement in their filler material. In additional, GYW shoes, due to the significant height of the fabric ribbing, require a large amount of this filler material.
HOWEVER, there are makers (limited, though present), who do not use cork filler or cement. Instead using wool felt (water permeable) and paste (non-petroleum based, and also non occlusive). These are usually limited to the very conscientious bespoke makers. Moreover, the very nature of handwelting, and the very minimal "elevation" of the holdfast, necessitates only a very thin layer of filler material. The downside of using wool felt and paste, is that it is fairly time consuming, as paste will need significant time to harden.
In these situations, I would then probably advise AGAINST using a topy, to maximise the water permeable properties of the entire insole/filler/outsole complex.
Personally, I use topys more for the reason of avoiding waterlogged outsoles in the situation of torrential rain. Because they are really difficult to dry, and will ultimately give rise to mould growth. In shoes that I know use cork / cement filler anyway, I just go ahead with the topy. In my bespoke shoes, from now on, I will leave the outsoles bare, as they are.
Topys do also have the added benefit of somewhat prolonging the life of the outsole, especially for those who wear down the toes quite a bit. For this reason though, some will opt for toe taps, which I don't advise (I know, I have taps on some of my shoes too), because the screws of the toe taps can potentially damage the inseam, which is far more catastrophic.
Though the outsole is buffed / sanded down a little for the topy to sit flush with the surface of the outsole, the outsole stitching is typically intact.
The topy also in no way, affects the inseam. Thus, it does not compromise the structural integrity of the shoe.
The problem, however, is that the topy may give rise to issues with regards to "breathability" of the OUTSOLE. By breathability, I am referring to water permeability.
When your foot is in the shoe, moisture, in the form of perspiration, starts to accumulate. Ideally, the less it accumulates, or the more easily it evaporates or escapes, the better. This perspiration can dissipate to some extent as your feet are in the shoes, but it mostly occurs after you remove them. There are a few ways that sweat can dissipate
1) After the sweat travels from the socks to the lining, it can evaporate directly from the lining.
2) Sweat soaks through from the lining, into the uppers, then through the uppers, and evaporates into the environment.
3) Sweat goes through the sock liner and into the insole, through the filler material, through the outsole and then from the outsole eventually evaporating into the environment.
4) To some extent, when trees are in the shoes, sweat may also be absorbed into the substance of the wood, if the surface of the trees are not coated with an impermeable finish.
5) Sweat goes through the sock liner into the insole, and then evaporates from the insole (after your feet are removed from the shoes).
Pertaining specfically to point number 3, the use of a topy may affect the movement of water from the outsole into the environment, thus causing sweat accumulation in the outsole AND insole, since rubber is impermeable to water.
The counter argument to this, which makes perfect sense as well, is that the filler material (usually cork) and the cement (petroleum derivative) used to adhere the filler to the insole and outsole, are already water impermeable to begin with. Thus, the use of a topy in such shoes, would probably not matter anyway, and not significantly affect the water permeability properties.
I agree with this.
As a side note, I would say that almost ALL industrially-made shoes use cork and cement in their filler material. In additional, GYW shoes, due to the significant height of the fabric ribbing, require a large amount of this filler material.
HOWEVER, there are makers (limited, though present), who do not use cork filler or cement. Instead using wool felt (water permeable) and paste (non-petroleum based, and also non occlusive). These are usually limited to the very conscientious bespoke makers. Moreover, the very nature of handwelting, and the very minimal "elevation" of the holdfast, necessitates only a very thin layer of filler material. The downside of using wool felt and paste, is that it is fairly time consuming, as paste will need significant time to harden.
In these situations, I would then probably advise AGAINST using a topy, to maximise the water permeable properties of the entire insole/filler/outsole complex.
Personally, I use topys more for the reason of avoiding waterlogged outsoles in the situation of torrential rain. Because they are really difficult to dry, and will ultimately give rise to mould growth. In shoes that I know use cork / cement filler anyway, I just go ahead with the topy. In my bespoke shoes, from now on, I will leave the outsoles bare, as they are.
Topys do also have the added benefit of somewhat prolonging the life of the outsole, especially for those who wear down the toes quite a bit. For this reason though, some will opt for toe taps, which I don't advise (I know, I have taps on some of my shoes too), because the screws of the toe taps can potentially damage the inseam, which is far more catastrophic.
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So can I concluded that my Loake Aldwych can add Topys if my feet dun sweat alot?
The main reason for adding Topys is to ensure my shoes can last longer than it is.
Yep, check out Earnest & Collective.
wrinklednails
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I've updated the carousell page (@pulloutnow) with more close-ups. Do check it out and drop me a PM here or on the carousell page for more info!
I added Topy so it is not slippery in Malls and wet floors
All in a Day
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Please refer to Cokiee's reply!
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