Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2

[completenovice]

Hey there,

Actually there are plenty of choices for jumper boots.

It's one of the most basic boot designs. So in this area, you're going to be spoilt for choice. The Loake Byron, Crockett & Jones Coniston, Barker Lambourne, Vass, Carmina, are just off the top of my head. In fact, any maker that does boots is likely to have a jumper design. My advice is, go with best fit, and your budget.

With regards to a wholecut loafer, J Fitzpatrick does a version of it. Called the Laurelhurst. And (don't mean to advertise) so does Enzo Bonafe.

A wholecut oxford, well, it's certainly a classic. If I were to have more than 8 choices for the "formal / business" list, it will probably be 9 or 10th. But it's something you could consider of course.

Belgian loafers, well, they are very casual. A nice-to-have, but no additional "benefit" against any other regular loafer. And they are also most typically, unlined and cemented (meaning, unstructured, with a glued outsole). This is just a personal preference, but I am naturally averse to such shoes. Even "high end" sneakers, have a side stitched rubber outsole.

Thanks Thundermarch!

I put all of your advice into a spreadsheet so that I have a disciplined buying plan, went to Seamless today for first time on a mission to look at loafers but not buy.

What actually happened was love at first sight, instantly blew entire budget on brown Enzo Bonafe brogued lace up Adelaides plus shoe trees at $120 because they were even more lovely than the shoes.

No idea what model, last etc ........

Post rationalization is that;

• Polishing the toe caps of display shoes is extremely seductive and makes me want to buy stuff
• SGD$498 is ridiculously cheap for hand welted / chiselled lasts

Am staying home tonight to eat pot noodles with the lights off to save electricity

 

[wiz]

Thanks Thundermarch!

I put all of your advice into a spreadsheet so that I have a disciplined buying plan, went to Seamless today for first time on a mission to look at loafers but not buy.

What actually happened was love at first sight, instantly blew entire budget on brown Enzo Bonafe brogued lace up Adelaides plus shoe trees at $120 because they were even more lovely than the shoes.

No idea what model, last etc ........

Post rationalization is that;

• Polishing the toe caps of display shoes is extremely seductive and makes me want to buy stuff
• SGD$498 is ridiculously cheap for hand welted / chiselled lasts

Am staying home tonight to eat pot noodles with the lights off to save electricity

Good choice, get some photos here!

 

[completenovice]

¥50k for AM and beautiful? Oh man you should have just bought is especially you can try and test for fit. I know I would

Why not post what you have shortlisted and we can discuss a bit? Not going to directly influence your decision but will be fun to chat about it.

No worries Wiz, am on here precisely because I want to be guided and influenced.

The AMs in Isetan Tokyo were buttery yellow suede which is not my thing and not in my size but of course, once you have seen the unicorn, that is all you want

Interestingly, they were markedly more sophisticated that some earlier AM models there too which were beautifully made but a little bit over the top for me - very pointy, side laced, strongly coloured and patinated etc etc. He seems to have made some sort of quantum shift in the last few years towards more classic and enduring styles, which I like.

Have been buying a few pairs lately at pretty good prices, still got a few more to go, might take a while but happy to post some up - let me know if you want a simple list, manufacturers catalog shots or actual pictures in Singapore conditions?

 

[wiz]

No worries Wiz, am on here precisely because I want to be guided and influenced.

The AMs in Isetan Tokyo were buttery yellow suede which is not my thing and not in my size but of course, once you have seen the unicorn, that is all you want

Interestingly, they were markedly more sophisticated that some earlier AM models there too which were beautifully made but a little bit over the top for me - very pointy, side laced, strongly coloured and patinated etc etc. He seems to have made some sort of quantum shift in the last few years towards more classic and enduring styles, which I like.

Have been buying a few pairs lately at pretty good prices, still got a few more to go, might take a while but happy to post some up - let me know if you want a simple list, manufacturers catalog shots or actual pictures in Singapore conditions?

Ah yes fit is really important, once you have nailed it for various makers you will likely to open up your wallet more than you should

Unicorn, oh well I am still thinking about the Centurion.. everytime I see a Dover it just points me back.

Just post what you like and comfortable with, with preference of your actual shoes(catalog shots usually turn out different)

 

[thundermarch]

@completenovice

Thanks for coming by, and of course, most of all, for buying a pair of shoes.

The business only exists because of good customers like you, and wiz, and a lot of other forum members here (thanks to all of you).

Well, you are absolutely right, the AM shoes you see at Isetan Shinjuku are markedly different from the AM shoes you see elsewhere. As you have rightfully mentioned, he has recently shifted focus to a more elegant, classically styled aesthetic with more English looking lasts. This is a conscious decision by Antonio to cater to a more "classic menswear"-esque clientele. Instead of just capturing the "dandy" crowd.

Secondly, the Japanese buyer who works at Isetan Shinjuku also prefers the "louder" stuff. Each design they carry is a unique one only for them. Apparently there is a large demand for the dandier stuff in Japan. Haha.

 

[wiz]

@TM, your team is the reason why I am able to enjoy the finer things in life again at good value proposition. Rock on!

 

[jysw1986]

Anyone tried the $189 shoes from Ed Et Al?
I am considering if it's good or not. How does it compare to their other RTW shoe in the $289 category?
Would dark brown or lifter brown be more suitable for navy blue suit or even jeans?
Thanks guys. Really hope I can find a suitable pair.

P/S: what about this brand called Doucal?

 

[thundermarch]

@TM, your team is the reason why I am able to enjoy the finer things in life again at good value proposition. Rock on!

Thanks again, wiz, your support.
There will be more stuff to come, of course.

 

[thundermarch]

Anyone tried the $189 shoes from Ed Et Al?
I am considering if it's good or not. How does it compare to their other RTW shoe in the $289 category?
Would dark brown or lifter brown be more suitable for navy blue suit or even jeans?
Thanks guys. Really hope I can find a suitable pair.

P/S: what about this brand called Doucal?

If pairing with a navy suit, you should go dark or at most medium brown. Preferably a non brogue. Lighter browns and brogues are OK with jeans. In fact, almost anything is good with jeans.

Am not familiar with Doucal, but after a quick Google through their stuff... hard to tell what the construction is. Some look to be definitely not welted (Blake stitched or cemented), some look to be welted (could also be Blake Rapid) though I can't say for sure based on pictures. Even their own website doesn't state the construction method. Overall a more fashion forward kind of maker. All this is fine, as long as you don't overspend on it.

There is another Italian maker Ducal, though, that has the capability of making handwelted shoes, albeit a bit rough looking.

 

[jysw1986]

If pairing with a navy suit, you should go dark or at most medium brown. Preferably a non brogue. Lighter browns and brogues are OK with jeans. In fact, almost anything is good with jeans.

Am not familiar with Doucal, but after a quick Google through their stuff... hard to tell what the construction is. Some look to be definitely not welted (Blake stitched or cemented), some look to be welted (could also be Blake Rapid) though I can't say for sure based on pictures. Even their own website doesn't state the construction method. Overall a more fashion forward kind of maker. All this is fine, as long as you don't overspend on it.

There is another Italian maker Ducal, though, that has the capability of making handwelted shoes, albeit a bit rough looking.

Ah thanks! Makes things cleared up pretty much. Will look at mid to darker brown then.
Would probably go to EEA again to have a better look at their RTW stocks.
The pricing for that Doucal shoe is $299 after discount from $539. The bottom has a rubber piece glued so not sure what construction it is. Saw this at robinsons.

If only I have more time, then I would just get MTO, but I need the shoes on 26th Feb for pre wedding photoshoot. So got to find one ready to wear pair.

 

[thundermarch]

Ah thanks! Makes things cleared up pretty much. Will look at mid to darker brown then.
Would probably go to EEA again to have a better look at their RTW stocks.
The pricing for that Doucal shoe is $299 after discount from $539. The bottom has a rubber piece glued so not sure what construction it is. Saw this at robinsons.

If only I have more time, then I would just get MTO, but I need the shoes on 26th Feb for pre wedding photoshoot. So got to find one ready to wear pair.

If I pass by Robinson's I will drop by and take a look. I can make a better guess at construction if the shoes are in front of me.

$299 is quite a decent price to pay for a welted shoe (if it is one).

For Italian makers, they probably have the widest (and most confusing) range of construction methods, from Blake stitching, Blake Rapid, handwelting, cemented, Bologna, Norvegese. Some makers have lines in every one of these methods.

Of course, you are right. It is always best to go try on the shoes to know what's best for you.

EEA's cheaper range is Blake stitched, as compared to his regular GYW stuff. Meaning there is one row of stitching between the uppers, insole and outsole. It's a quicker, cheaper way of constructing shoes compared to welting, and generally cannot be re-soled, or only with much difficulty. It is meant to be palatable to the more budget conscious. If it fits your feet and your budget, and is what you are looking for, for your photo shoot, nothing wrong with it at all. I think it is very reasonably priced.

Looking at the pictures, you will also notice that for the Blake range, the outsoles are less thick, and also trimmed right up against the uppers. This is most likely done to give the shoes a more sleek appearance. Which is nice, of course. But this also means that there is less outsole to wear down before they are completely worn through. And the protective effect (of the uppers) of a welt / outsole is also lost.

 

[jysw1986]

If I pass by Robinson's I will drop by and take a look. I can make a better guess at construction if the shoes are in front of me.

$299 is quite a decent price to pay for a welted shoe (if it is one).

For Italian makers, they probably have the widest (and most confusing) range of construction methods, from Blake stitching, Blake Rapid, handwelting, cemented, Bologna, Norvegese. Some makers have lines in every one of these methods.

Of course, you are right. It is always best to go try on the shoes to know what's best for you.

EEA's cheaper range is Blake stitched, as compared to his regular GYW stuff. Meaning there is one row of stitching between the uppers, insole and outsole. It's a quicker, cheaper way of constructing shoes compared to welting, and generally cannot be re-soled, or only with much difficulty. It is meant to be palatable to the more budget conscious. If it fits your feet and your budget, and is what you are looking for, for your photo shoot, nothing wrong with it at all. I think it is very reasonably priced.

Looking at the pictures, you will also notice that for the Blake range, the outsoles are less thick, and also trimmed right up against the uppers. This is most likely done to give the shoes a more sleek appearance. Which is nice, of course. But this also means that there is less outsole to wear down before they are completely worn through. And the protective effect (of the uppers) of a welt / outsole is also lost.

So much information! Thanks!
Now I am sold with the idea. Haha!
I may even consider the $289 ones, wonder are those in GYW or only Blake?
Like you mentioned the $189 lion and star is definitely Blake. How about those EEA in house shoes priced at $289?
Those GYW or Blake?
Thanks alot. You really helped me tons!

 

[thundermarch]

So much information! Thanks!
Now I am sold with the idea. Haha!
I may even consider the $289 ones, wonder are those in GYW or only Blake?
Like you mentioned the $189 lion and star is definitely Blake. How about those EEA in house shoes priced at $289?
Those GYW or Blake?
Thanks alot. You really helped me tons!

The 289 ones are Goodyear.

I've never owned a pair of EEA to be honest. There are other bros here who have though, and can give better, more informed opinions about the maker overall.

 

[jysw1986]

The 289 ones are Goodyear.

I've never owned a pair of EEA to be honest. There are other bros here who have though, and can give better, more informed opinions about the maker overall.

Thanks! Will wait and see if any bros reply.
I am also waiting for a reply from "custom made" on their RTW shoes availability. Wonder if theirs is GYW or just Blake.

Any other brands around $300 that I can have a look at? Tangs or Robinsons area?
Something that is not MTO because my lead time is only 3 more weeks till the event. Lol

 

[wiz]

Thanks! Will wait and see if any bros reply.
I am also waiting for a reply from "custom made" on their RTW shoes availability. Wonder if theirs is GYW or just Blake.

Any other brands around $300 that I can have a look at? Tangs or Robinsons area?
Something that is not MTO because my lead time is only 3 more weeks till the event. Lol

Hi, check your PM

 

[jysw1986]

Hi, check your PM

Thanks bro!
Appreciate it. Will have a look too

 

[jysw1986]

Hmmm I have been reading the past 400 over pages since yesterday. Trying my best to understand as much as I could.

As a summary for myself, it goes something like this.

GYW is a better option if I could fork out more than $250+

Some considerations for that price range $250-350 would be Ed Et Al, LLYR or custom-made.

If could push above $400-500, then look for either Loake or Yando.

Above 500, well, let's just stick to basic one for myself now. Lol

Besides getting the shoe, I would need to set aside some budget for a shoe tree, horsetail brush, conditioner and polish.

Any other places I should consider having a look at?
I am sold by the idea of getting a brown Derby. I quite like the design shown on shoetreeproject. The shoe that is used for promoting the shoe tree.

Hopefully someone could recommend me a place where I can get ready to wear one. Thanks!

 

[jonleelk]

Hmmm I have been reading the past 400 over pages since yesterday. Trying my best to understand as much as I could.

As a summary for myself, it goes something like this.

GYW is a better option if I could fork out more than $250+

Some considerations for that price range $250-350 would be Ed Et Al, LLYR or custom-made.

If could push above $400-500, then look for either Loake or Yando.

Above 500, well, let's just stick to basic one for myself now. Lol

Besides getting the shoe, I would need to set aside some budget for a shoe tree, horsetail brush, conditioner and polish.

Any other places I should consider having a look at?
I am sold by the idea of getting a brown Derby. I quite like the design shown on shoetreeproject. The shoe that is used for promoting the shoe tree.

Hopefully someone could recommend me a place where I can get ready to wear one. Thanks!

Lake doesn’t cost that much. Around S$300 before shipping.
https://www.pediwear.co.uk/loake/products/4991.php

 

[wiz]

Hi, errr not sure which shoe you are looking at but I do not see a derby on shortreeproject...

Hmmm I have been reading the past 400 over pages since yesterday. Trying my best to understand as much as I could.

As a summary for myself, it goes something like this.

GYW is a better option if I could fork out more than $250+

Some considerations for that price range $250-350 would be Ed Et Al, LLYR or custom-made.

If could push above $400-500, then look for either Loake or Yando.

Above 500, well, let's just stick to basic one for myself now. Lol

Besides getting the shoe, I would need to set aside some budget for a shoe tree, horsetail brush, conditioner and polish.

Any other places I should consider having a look at?
I am sold by the idea of getting a brown Derby. I quite like the design shown on shoetreeproject. The shoe that is used for promoting the shoe tree.

Hopefully someone could recommend me a place where I can get ready to wear one. Thanks!

 

[jysw1986]

Lake doesn’t cost that much. Around S$300 before shipping.
https://www.pediwear.co.uk/loake/products/4991.php

Ah! How long does it take to reach? So assuming I purchase this particular model. Everything including shipping and etc will be less than $300? That's awesome!
Any promos to enter?